Starlet GT Turbo...any good for track?
16 May 2014, 05:15 PM
#1
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Starlet GT Turbo...any good for track?
Hi guys,
I was wondering whether a Starlet GT Turbo would be worth buying for track purposes as they seem like cheap nippy motors. Would I encounter any major problems?
I would strip the car as much as I could so that it was a bit lighter
What are these like modding wise? I would prefer to buy one that already had most of the mods done to it to save money and time. However can these cars be quite tempremental as many have done high mileage and may not like being thrashed around a track?
Power wise I would like around 200hp. I haven't had any experience with these cars so I may be a bit unrealistic but it seemed like a nice figure.
Sorry for all the questions and all support will be appreciated
Regards,
Subaru Collector 555.
I was wondering whether a Starlet GT Turbo would be worth buying for track purposes as they seem like cheap nippy motors. Would I encounter any major problems?
I would strip the car as much as I could so that it was a bit lighter
What are these like modding wise? I would prefer to buy one that already had most of the mods done to it to save money and time. However can these cars be quite tempremental as many have done high mileage and may not like being thrashed around a track?Power wise I would like around 200hp. I haven't had any experience with these cars so I may be a bit unrealistic but it seemed like a nice figure.
Sorry for all the questions and all support will be appreciated
Regards,
Subaru Collector 555.
16 May 2014, 05:59 PM
#2
Now this is more my kind of question!
YES YES YES AND YES they are an awesome track car.
133hp standard, and easily tuned to 185hp on the standard turbo, it doesnt sound like alot, but they go like stink. I have just got my glanza back on the road and it has really put a massive smile on my face all day long, ive done about 140miles to £20 of vpower too!
I wouldnt worry about the mileage, the 4EFTE engine is absolutely bomb proof and can run 250hp on standard internals at a push, almost double the factory power, which AFAIK there are only a few engines capable of that! Obviously your normal wear and tear items such as bushes etc, MIGHT need some attention, but mine has gone 90k and has only needed CV boots.
Stripping the car isnt really worth the effort, you arent going to save a huge amount of weight, and owing to the fact they are only about 840kg anyways you arent going to get much gain from it. The only advantage is for a roll cage, and some harness attachment points.
200hp is a very fast starlet, and to be honest, I wouldnt go with much more, 200hp with a LSD and a whole heap of handling parts will be a very very fast track car.
I am running mine on a subaru TD04 turbo and i will be going back to a standard turbo as the td04 is just a little bit too big....
Saw this on ebay too which would be a perfect track car build, if you want to put the money into it you could build a "frankenstein" engine for it to make it a 1.5ltr turbo
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2214371032...84.m1555.l2649
YES YES YES AND YES they are an awesome track car.
133hp standard, and easily tuned to 185hp on the standard turbo, it doesnt sound like alot, but they go like stink. I have just got my glanza back on the road and it has really put a massive smile on my face all day long, ive done about 140miles to £20 of vpower too!
I wouldnt worry about the mileage, the 4EFTE engine is absolutely bomb proof and can run 250hp on standard internals at a push, almost double the factory power, which AFAIK there are only a few engines capable of that! Obviously your normal wear and tear items such as bushes etc, MIGHT need some attention, but mine has gone 90k and has only needed CV boots.
Stripping the car isnt really worth the effort, you arent going to save a huge amount of weight, and owing to the fact they are only about 840kg anyways you arent going to get much gain from it. The only advantage is for a roll cage, and some harness attachment points.
200hp is a very fast starlet, and to be honest, I wouldnt go with much more, 200hp with a LSD and a whole heap of handling parts will be a very very fast track car.
I am running mine on a subaru TD04 turbo and i will be going back to a standard turbo as the td04 is just a little bit too big....
Saw this on ebay too which would be a perfect track car build, if you want to put the money into it you could build a "frankenstein" engine for it to make it a 1.5ltr turbo
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2214371032...84.m1555.l2649
Last edited by JGlanzaV; 16 May 2014 at 06:01 PM.
16 May 2014, 06:20 PM
#3
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Haha thought you were gonna pop up
Thanks for the info, so would I need to go for a bigger turbo in order to achieve 200hp? I wondered whether the Subaru TD series would fit in the Starlets so cheers for the clarification. On many starlet forums they say that the TD04 is an expensive turbo, yet you can buy Subaru ones for as little as £40! Maybe it is a hybrid or built to a better specification?
200hp would be the max I would want to acheive as I don't want too much torque steer that will just eat my tyres lol. It's nice to hear that 200hp will kill the motor and other essential parts.
I knew they were light from the start but surely the A/C, rear seats, spare tyre, radio may weigh a bit? I would just like to remove all unnessary weight to give that little extra advantage on the track. Maybe not enough to keep up with the likes of 911s, Ferraris, etc but still would be fun though.
Regards,
Subaru Collector 555.
Thanks for the info, so would I need to go for a bigger turbo in order to achieve 200hp? I wondered whether the Subaru TD series would fit in the Starlets so cheers for the clarification. On many starlet forums they say that the TD04 is an expensive turbo, yet you can buy Subaru ones for as little as £40! Maybe it is a hybrid or built to a better specification?
200hp would be the max I would want to acheive as I don't want too much torque steer that will just eat my tyres lol. It's nice to hear that 200hp will kill the motor and other essential parts.
I knew they were light from the start but surely the A/C, rear seats, spare tyre, radio may weigh a bit? I would just like to remove all unnessary weight to give that little extra advantage on the track. Maybe not enough to keep up with the likes of 911s, Ferraris, etc but still would be fun though
.Regards,
Subaru Collector 555.
Last edited by User 21721; 16 May 2014 at 06:24 PM.
16 May 2014, 06:29 PM
#4
A subaru turbo isnot a straight bolt on, a decent mild steel manifold and downpipe plus oil and water line, intercooler pipework, filter relocations etc it does all add up, plus a piggy back ecu etc to run it is a decent amount of wedge.
The cost though is pretty much the same as the modifications to do on your standard turbo to get 180+hp.
I personally prefer the responsiveness of the ct9 as opposed to the TD04. If only aiming for the 200hp mark I would look at a Tongs Turbo TD12 hybrid, its a ct9/td04 hybrid turbo, so the best of both worlds.
AC has to go regardless of set up as you cant find a FMIC etc with AC in.
Rear seats are very light, so wont make much odds, tyre etc you will save a few Kgs
The cost though is pretty much the same as the modifications to do on your standard turbo to get 180+hp.
I personally prefer the responsiveness of the ct9 as opposed to the TD04. If only aiming for the 200hp mark I would look at a Tongs Turbo TD12 hybrid, its a ct9/td04 hybrid turbo, so the best of both worlds.
AC has to go regardless of set up as you cant find a FMIC etc with AC in.
Rear seats are very light, so wont make much odds, tyre etc you will save a few Kgs
16 May 2014, 06:40 PM
#5
I wouldn't say it's good on track tbh unless spending loads on all the handling components (and need the best stuff) as its quiet an old car.
No doubt it's quite tuneable with impressive power to weight and will show some boys up.
Was going to get one but just didn't tick my needs in the handling (sliding, under steer too much)
I'd go with a mx5 turbo conversion for a cheap track toy as they are good at handling to start with just a bit underpowered for the straights.
Spend a bit of money and it will make you happy.
I'm actually thinking I need another one myself and do a proper turbo (tdo4,vf35, gt2560r) conversion.
Had a Clio 172 too and slightly prepped that and was ok but tbh I liked the mx5 handling charistics and fun factor but broke it before I could turbo it (regret it now)
No doubt it's quite tuneable with impressive power to weight and will show some boys up.
Was going to get one but just didn't tick my needs in the handling (sliding, under steer too much)
I'd go with a mx5 turbo conversion for a cheap track toy as they are good at handling to start with just a bit underpowered for the straights.
Spend a bit of money and it will make you happy.
I'm actually thinking I need another one myself and do a proper turbo (tdo4,vf35, gt2560r) conversion.
Had a Clio 172 too and slightly prepped that and was ok but tbh I liked the mx5 handling charistics and fun factor but broke it before I could turbo it (regret it now)
16 May 2014, 06:40 PM
#6
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best car i ever had was a 220hp starlet. handled like nothing else but it was kitted up to the bollox, you name it, it had it.
180 + is fast in a starlet btw.
the only car ive ever had that i miss
180 + is fast in a starlet btw.
the only car ive ever had that i miss
16 May 2014, 06:43 PM
#7
I wouldn't say it's good on track tbh unless spending loads on all the handling components (and need the best stuff) as its quiet an old car.
No doubt it's quite tuneable with impressive power to weight and will show some boys up.
Was going to get one but just didn't tick my needs in the handling (sliding, under steer too much)
I'd go with a mx5 turbo conversion for a cheap track toy as they are good at handling to start with just a bit underpowered for the straights.
Spend a bit of money and it will make you happy.
I'm actually thinking I need another one myself and do a proper turbo (tdo4,vf35, gt2560r) conversion.
Had a Clio 172 too and slightly prepped that and was ok but tbh I liked the mx5 handling charistics and fun factor but broke it before I could turbo it (regret it now)
No doubt it's quite tuneable with impressive power to weight and will show some boys up.
Was going to get one but just didn't tick my needs in the handling (sliding, under steer too much)
I'd go with a mx5 turbo conversion for a cheap track toy as they are good at handling to start with just a bit underpowered for the straights.
Spend a bit of money and it will make you happy.
I'm actually thinking I need another one myself and do a proper turbo (tdo4,vf35, gt2560r) conversion.
Had a Clio 172 too and slightly prepped that and was ok but tbh I liked the mx5 handling charistics and fun factor but broke it before I could turbo it (regret it now)
Mine under steers a bit, but it is to be expected, and it will leave a mx5 turbod or not in its wake...
A properly set up starlet will be a very capable car, and plenty fast enough for some track day fun, if you get the standard LSD gearbox the understeer will be pretty much wiped out, the torque steer is the problem!
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16 May 2014, 06:45 PM
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A subaru turbo isnot a straight bolt on, a decent mild steel manifold and downpipe plus oil and water line, intercooler pipework, filter relocations etc it does all add up, plus a piggy back ecu etc to run it is a decent amount of wedge.
The cost though is pretty much the same as the modifications to do on your standard turbo to get 180+hp.
I personally prefer the responsiveness of the ct9 as opposed to the TD04. If only aiming for the 200hp mark I would look at a Tongs Turbo TD12 hybrid, its a ct9/td04 hybrid turbo, so the best of both worlds.
AC has to go regardless of set up as you cant find a FMIC etc with AC in.
Rear seats are very light, so wont make much odds, tyre etc you will save a few Kgs
The cost though is pretty much the same as the modifications to do on your standard turbo to get 180+hp.
I personally prefer the responsiveness of the ct9 as opposed to the TD04. If only aiming for the 200hp mark I would look at a Tongs Turbo TD12 hybrid, its a ct9/td04 hybrid turbo, so the best of both worlds.
AC has to go regardless of set up as you cant find a FMIC etc with AC in.
Rear seats are very light, so wont make much odds, tyre etc you will save a few Kgs
As we are on the topic of Subaru parts, is it possible to fit Subaru front seats as I am not a fan of the originals. I would like Recaros like the ones in evos but they cost a fair bit. I would probably go for classic seats as the newage seats are a bit too high?
Some people run TD05's would they be laggy at only 200hp?
Regards,
Subaru Collector 555.
Last edited by User 21721; 16 May 2014 at 07:21 PM.
16 May 2014, 06:47 PM
#9
Impreza, CTR, and evo seats will all fit
Remember they are only a 1300cc engine! So yes a TD05 will be horrendous, a TD04 is a nice track toy
Full boost at about 4,2k on my standard 4efte with a TD04 on
Remember they are only a 1300cc engine! So yes a TD05 will be horrendous, a TD04 is a nice track toy
Full boost at about 4,2k on my standard 4efte with a TD04 on
16 May 2014, 06:53 PM
#10
You have obviously never been into a properly set up starlet.....!
Mine under steers a bit, but it is to be expected, and it will leave a mx5 turbod or not in its wake...
A properly set up starlet will be a very capable car, and plenty fast enough for some track day fun, if you get the standard LSD gearbox the understeer will be pretty much wiped out, the torque steer is the problem!
Mine under steers a bit, but it is to be expected, and it will leave a mx5 turbod or not in its wake...
A properly set up starlet will be a very capable car, and plenty fast enough for some track day fun, if you get the standard LSD gearbox the understeer will be pretty much wiped out, the torque steer is the problem!
I wasn't mocking it in any way
One mans food is another mans dinner. I just preferred the mx5, fwd vs rwd and weight distribution and all that's makes a stable car as its not all about speed on track but more consistency pushing hard round it so you buy/tune a vehicle that's right for 'you'.
16 May 2014, 07:02 PM
#11
I did say it was ok if 'properly' spent on, if you care to read propery instead of skim reading and being defensive seen as you own one.
I wasn't mocking it in any way
One mans food is another mans dinner. I just preferred the mx5, fwd vs rwd and weight distribution and all that's makes a stable car as its not all about speed on track but more consistency pushing hard round it so you buy/tune a vehicle that's right for 'you'.
I wasn't mocking it in any way
One mans food is another mans dinner. I just preferred the mx5, fwd vs rwd and weight distribution and all that's makes a stable car as its not all about speed on track but more consistency pushing hard round it so you buy/tune a vehicle that's right for 'you'.
you dont have to have the most expensive stuff to make a very fast car, especially in a starlet, luckily toyota made alot of very good parts standard for the starlet, and massive tuning doesnt nessecarily mean a massive budget If on a budget you will not get more bang for buck than a starlet.
16 May 2014, 07:26 PM
#13
properly spent on means not short cutting in my book and paying to get set up properly in my book so no need for correction as I assume you knew what I meant.I give up. It's like picking at a Subaru owner who never back down.
Good luck SC.
Last edited by bustaMOVEs; 16 May 2014 at 07:30 PM.
16 May 2014, 07:39 PM
#14
A set of coilovers are about £550, plus some polybushes and ARB's (most come with TRD handling upgrades as standard
so no need for uprated)A panhard rod is a must when lowering too. A toyota standard gearbox with LSD is as good as any aftermarket lsd.
Injectors to fuel the TD04 will also come off a celica, etc etc etc
16 May 2014, 08:11 PM
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Again, another virtue of toyota, most parts are interchangeable between models, you can get a decent brake upgrade off the Celica 165 and pads are £4.50 a caliper lol. Any scrappers can sell you the calipers for about £35 i got quoted for a set, and a set of discs off an astra which are about £80.
A set of coilovers are about £550, plus some polybushes and ARB's (most come with TRD handling upgrades as standard so no need for uprated)
A panhard rod is a must when lowering too. A toyota standard gearbox with LSD is as good as any aftermarket lsd.
Injectors to fuel the TD04 will also come off a celica, etc etc etc
A set of coilovers are about £550, plus some polybushes and ARB's (most come with TRD handling upgrades as standard
so no need for uprated)A panhard rod is a must when lowering too. A toyota standard gearbox with LSD is as good as any aftermarket lsd.
Injectors to fuel the TD04 will also come off a celica, etc etc etc
Regards,
Subaru Collector 555.
Last edited by User 21721; 16 May 2014 at 08:58 PM.
16 May 2014, 08:14 PM
#16
TD04 conversion probably the same, but alot of the starlets these days have hybrids or td04s on them, so you cal sell alot of the existing kit off them to fund the new stuff
16 May 2014, 08:59 PM
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Yeah assuming it comes with the TRD ARB and standard/TRD LSD gearbox, you will be looking at probably 1k for RARB, ALK, coilovers and set up etc.
TD04 conversion probably the same, but alot of the starlets these days have hybrids or td04s on them, so you cal sell alot of the existing kit off them to fund the new stuff
TD04 conversion probably the same, but alot of the starlets these days have hybrids or td04s on them, so you cal sell alot of the existing kit off them to fund the new stuff
What is the spec of yours if you don't mind me asking?
Regards,
Subaru Collector 555.
16 May 2014, 09:06 PM
#18
96 Glanza V
full optional lip kit
Standard 4efte
Custom intercooler with short pipework
TD04 turbo kit (clocked)
Sard racing external wastegate
Apexi N1 Exhaust
Grille mounted power enterprise air filter
cut out bumper and grill for airflow
unknown lowering springs on TRD shocks
TRD ARB and fully polybushed front end
rear panhard rod
Rays engineering TE37 alloys
Roll cage
Stripped rear and AC removed.
I have a 1.5ltr engine I am half tempted to build up, to bring the spool on the td04 down to about 3k, which would be fun! Or i might sell it....
full optional lip kit
Standard 4efte
Custom intercooler with short pipework
TD04 turbo kit (clocked)
Sard racing external wastegate
Apexi N1 Exhaust
Grille mounted power enterprise air filter
cut out bumper and grill for airflow
unknown lowering springs on TRD shocks
TRD ARB and fully polybushed front end
rear panhard rod
Rays engineering TE37 alloys
Roll cage
Stripped rear and AC removed.
I have a 1.5ltr engine I am half tempted to build up, to bring the spool on the td04 down to about 3k, which would be fun! Or i might sell it....
17 May 2014, 09:35 AM
#19
I have just been out on a good long hard blast across the twisty moors roads and put it through its paces to remind myself of the good and bad points, as I have been comparing it to my 535hp scooby which obviously is not helpful!
I did a well known to me piece of road, with alot of fast flowing corners, and tight technical series with hairpins etc.
It is a very difficult road on all aspects of a car so a perfect test bed
The standard brakes with DS2500 pads, are not up to the job, I cooked them by the time I reached the end of the 5 miles and nearly overshot the last hairpin due to severe brake fade. So definitely go for the Celica upgrade, the standard brakes are just not up to the job of hard abuse.
The 1331cc engine, out of the boost range of the TD04 (0-4k) is gutless, and you have to keep it in the sweet band to get it to move, but once in that band, it really flies. To combat this, I am really tempted to build up the 1551cc engine up, I had one fitted before and it is so much smoother and torquier to drive off boost and low down. Full bost on the TD04 rather than 4-4.5k will be 3250k ish. Obviously on track you wont ever be driving it below 4k anyway, so this wont be a problem.
Handling wise, the set up I have now is amazing, honestly the way it was holding the road around the bends was something else. It is very agile, and due to the low weight you can really flick it around the bends and carry alot of speed through tight twisting series, compared to the subaru where I have to slow down or lift off. It just isnt as agile as my starlet. I do need a geo set up as the back end was skipping a bit.
Tyres and wheels, I run Yoko parada spec 2 on the front and toyo t1r on the rear, the Yokos in the dry are amazing, I got them so hot today when i pulled over I had stones leaving imprints on the tyres! The hotter they got the better they held.
I find having the yokos on the back can make lift off over steer a problem due to them been alot cooler than the fronts, but this isnt a problem with the toyos on the back.
It definitely needs decent seats installed, the standard ones are ****e, and harnesses would definitely be a benefit.
I would also think about removing the power steering, it is very "airy" and doesnt fill you with confidence on turn in as it is so light it almost feels like nothing is there, this got worse when removing the AC as obviously there is less resistance on the belt to provide the weight.
I also forgot how much I love my TRD shortshifter, you can really bang it through the gears and it makes things alot quicker and smoother as you are literally only moving the stick a couple of inches to get the next gear. It definitely is a worthwhile modification if tracking it.
Understeer, is honestly not very bad at all, I pushed it to the very limit and if you are smooth with the car it just grips, no fuss, no mess. Lift off oversteer is an issue, but dont lift off, lifting off is for pussies.
HTH
Jamie
I did a well known to me piece of road, with alot of fast flowing corners, and tight technical series with hairpins etc.
It is a very difficult road on all aspects of a car so a perfect test bed
The standard brakes with DS2500 pads, are not up to the job, I cooked them by the time I reached the end of the 5 miles and nearly overshot the last hairpin due to severe brake fade. So definitely go for the Celica upgrade, the standard brakes are just not up to the job of hard abuse.
The 1331cc engine, out of the boost range of the TD04 (0-4k) is gutless, and you have to keep it in the sweet band to get it to move, but once in that band, it really flies. To combat this, I am really tempted to build up the 1551cc engine up, I had one fitted before and it is so much smoother and torquier to drive off boost and low down. Full bost on the TD04 rather than 4-4.5k will be 3250k ish. Obviously on track you wont ever be driving it below 4k anyway, so this wont be a problem.
Handling wise, the set up I have now is amazing, honestly the way it was holding the road around the bends was something else. It is very agile, and due to the low weight you can really flick it around the bends and carry alot of speed through tight twisting series, compared to the subaru where I have to slow down or lift off. It just isnt as agile as my starlet. I do need a geo set up as the back end was skipping a bit.
Tyres and wheels, I run Yoko parada spec 2 on the front and toyo t1r on the rear, the Yokos in the dry are amazing, I got them so hot today when i pulled over I had stones leaving imprints on the tyres! The hotter they got the better they held.
I find having the yokos on the back can make lift off over steer a problem due to them been alot cooler than the fronts, but this isnt a problem with the toyos on the back.
It definitely needs decent seats installed, the standard ones are ****e, and harnesses would definitely be a benefit.
I would also think about removing the power steering, it is very "airy" and doesnt fill you with confidence on turn in as it is so light it almost feels like nothing is there, this got worse when removing the AC as obviously there is less resistance on the belt to provide the weight.
I also forgot how much I love my TRD shortshifter, you can really bang it through the gears and it makes things alot quicker and smoother as you are literally only moving the stick a couple of inches to get the next gear. It definitely is a worthwhile modification if tracking it.
Understeer, is honestly not very bad at all, I pushed it to the very limit and if you are smooth with the car it just grips, no fuss, no mess. Lift off oversteer is an issue, but dont lift off, lifting off is for pussies.
HTH
Jamie
Last edited by JGlanzaV; 17 May 2014 at 09:37 AM.
17 May 2014, 10:16 AM
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I have just been out on a good long hard blast across the twisty moors roads and put it through its paces to remind myself of the good and bad points, as I have been comparing it to my 535hp scooby which obviously is not helpful!
I did a well known to me piece of road, with alot of fast flowing corners, and tight technical series with hairpins etc.
It is a very difficult road on all aspects of a car so a perfect test bed
The standard brakes with DS2500 pads, are not up to the job, I cooked them by the time I reached the end of the 5 miles and nearly overshot the last hairpin due to severe brake fade. So definitely go for the Celica upgrade, the standard brakes are just not up to the job of hard abuse.
The 1331cc engine, out of the boost range of the TD04 (0-4k) is gutless, and you have to keep it in the sweet band to get it to move, but once in that band, it really flies. To combat this, I am really tempted to build up the 1551cc engine up, I had one fitted before and it is so much smoother and torquier to drive off boost and low down. Full bost on the TD04 rather than 4-4.5k will be 3250k ish. Obviously on track you wont ever be driving it below 4k anyway, so this wont be a problem.
Handling wise, the set up I have now is amazing, honestly the way it was holding the road around the bends was something else. It is very agile, and due to the low weight you can really flick it around the bends and carry alot of speed through tight twisting series, compared to the subaru where I have to slow down or lift off. It just isnt as agile as my starlet. I do need a geo set up as the back end was skipping a bit.
Tyres and wheels, I run Yoko parada spec 2 on the front and toyo t1r on the rear, the Yokos in the dry are amazing, I got them so hot today when i pulled over I had stones leaving imprints on the tyres! The hotter they got the better they held.
I find having the yokos on the back can make lift off over steer a problem due to them been alot cooler than the fronts, but this isnt a problem with the toyos on the back.
It definitely needs decent seats installed, the standard ones are ****e, and harnesses would definitely be a benefit.
I would also think about removing the power steering, it is very "airy" and doesnt fill you with confidence on turn in as it is so light it almost feels like nothing is there, this got worse when removing the AC as obviously there is less resistance on the belt to provide the weight.
I also forgot how much I love my TRD shortshifter, you can really bang it through the gears and it makes things alot quicker and smoother as you are literally only moving the stick a couple of inches to get the next gear. It definitely is a worthwhile modification if tracking it.
Understeer, is honestly not very bad at all, I pushed it to the very limit and if you are smooth with the car it just grips, no fuss, no mess. Lift off oversteer is an issue, but dont lift off, lifting off is for pussies.
HTH
Jamie
I did a well known to me piece of road, with alot of fast flowing corners, and tight technical series with hairpins etc.
It is a very difficult road on all aspects of a car so a perfect test bed
The standard brakes with DS2500 pads, are not up to the job, I cooked them by the time I reached the end of the 5 miles and nearly overshot the last hairpin due to severe brake fade. So definitely go for the Celica upgrade, the standard brakes are just not up to the job of hard abuse.
The 1331cc engine, out of the boost range of the TD04 (0-4k) is gutless, and you have to keep it in the sweet band to get it to move, but once in that band, it really flies. To combat this, I am really tempted to build up the 1551cc engine up, I had one fitted before and it is so much smoother and torquier to drive off boost and low down. Full bost on the TD04 rather than 4-4.5k will be 3250k ish. Obviously on track you wont ever be driving it below 4k anyway, so this wont be a problem.
Handling wise, the set up I have now is amazing, honestly the way it was holding the road around the bends was something else. It is very agile, and due to the low weight you can really flick it around the bends and carry alot of speed through tight twisting series, compared to the subaru where I have to slow down or lift off. It just isnt as agile as my starlet. I do need a geo set up as the back end was skipping a bit.
Tyres and wheels, I run Yoko parada spec 2 on the front and toyo t1r on the rear, the Yokos in the dry are amazing, I got them so hot today when i pulled over I had stones leaving imprints on the tyres! The hotter they got the better they held.
I find having the yokos on the back can make lift off over steer a problem due to them been alot cooler than the fronts, but this isnt a problem with the toyos on the back.
It definitely needs decent seats installed, the standard ones are ****e, and harnesses would definitely be a benefit.
I would also think about removing the power steering, it is very "airy" and doesnt fill you with confidence on turn in as it is so light it almost feels like nothing is there, this got worse when removing the AC as obviously there is less resistance on the belt to provide the weight.
I also forgot how much I love my TRD shortshifter, you can really bang it through the gears and it makes things alot quicker and smoother as you are literally only moving the stick a couple of inches to get the next gear. It definitely is a worthwhile modification if tracking it.
Understeer, is honestly not very bad at all, I pushed it to the very limit and if you are smooth with the car it just grips, no fuss, no mess. Lift off oversteer is an issue, but dont lift off, lifting off is for pussies.
HTH
Jamie
.I would have thought that removing the power steering would make steering much more difficult but I guess that only applies to some vechiles that really need it. I will definently be getting me a set of the celica calipers aswell. How about Nanzang NSRs (unsure on spelling lol) I have heard some good reviews and they seem to be a bit cheaper as well.
Tell me more of the 1551cc engine in terms of price, where to get one, etc as it sounds a bit like the 2.5 upgrade some people do with their Subarus to improve low-down torque.
Regards,
Subaru Collector 555.
17 May 2014, 10:48 AM
#21
Thanks for that, it certainly did help I will keep this in my mind when my quest begins .
I would have thought that removing the power steering would make steering much more difficult but I guess that only applies to some vechiles that really need it. I will definently be getting me a set of the celica calipers aswell. How about Nanzang NSRs (unsure on spelling lol) I have heard some good reviews and they seem to be a bit cheaper as well.
Tell me more of the 1551cc engine in terms of price, where to get one, etc as it sounds a bit like the 2.5 upgrade some people do with their Subarus to improve low-down torque.
Regards,
Subaru Collector 555.
.I would have thought that removing the power steering would make steering much more difficult but I guess that only applies to some vechiles that really need it. I will definently be getting me a set of the celica calipers aswell. How about Nanzang NSRs (unsure on spelling lol) I have heard some good reviews and they seem to be a bit cheaper as well.
Tell me more of the 1551cc engine in terms of price, where to get one, etc as it sounds a bit like the 2.5 upgrade some people do with their Subarus to improve low-down torque.
Regards,
Subaru Collector 555.
The 1.5ltr engine is from a toyota Sera or Cynos, both JDM imports only.
It comes with a combination of either 5EFE, or 5EFHE engines.
This is not like the 2.5 upgrade as these engines arent crap! They have CDB etc, and is basically a larger stroker kit.
The 5e though been non turbo, means a bit of work is required to make it suitable for the Glanza/GT. There are no oil returns and feeds for the turbo, same with water feeds etc. Thecompression is too high, and a few other bits and a few other bits and pieces.
So to combat this, you use the 5e block, crank and conrods, and due to good old Toyota doing a decent job, everythhing from the 4efte fits straight in, pistons, heads etc! So basically, you take the 4e sump and oil return, it bolts straight on, same with the thermo housing, and the oil filter and feed housing bolts straight on too. Headgaskets Toyota OE and bolts are about £35 and will hold 250hp all day long.
If you get the 5efhe you get the benefit of 300WHEELhp proven conrods, long duration cams, and a saving of about £1000 on the build because for forged conrods to handle similar, the block needs notching etc, plus the cost of shimming aftermarket cams too
So slap a set of forged pistons in there and you will be looking at a 300WHP capable motor for about 1k
The problem is finding a 5efhe motor, as most people cant tell the difference!
Tyres, what ever works for you, I love my set up and wouldnt change it for the world. But it might not work for you and the way you drive, but I know at least 5 people who have been out in mine and changed their tyres to the same as mine because it seems to work!
What you are also forgetting is you are only running like 15" rims on it, my Yokos are £42 a corner fitted....
Last edited by JGlanzaV; 17 May 2014 at 10:51 AM.
17 May 2014, 02:56 PM
#22
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To be honest, power steering doesnt do much, as im sure you are aware, while moving there isnt alot of need for assistance, its mainly for parking and slow maneuvers. You could also leave the AC compressor in if you wanted to add weight to the steering. I am tempted to remove it altogether though, but its just down to personal taste, I am used to driving the scooby with very little power steering.
The 1.5ltr engine is from a toyota Sera or Cynos, both JDM imports only.
It comes with a combination of either 5EFE, or 5EFHE engines.
This is not like the 2.5 upgrade as these engines arent crap! They have CDB etc, and is basically a larger stroker kit.
The 5e though been non turbo, means a bit of work is required to make it suitable for the Glanza/GT. There are no oil returns and feeds for the turbo, same with water feeds etc. Thecompression is too high, and a few other bits and a few other bits and pieces.
So to combat this, you use the 5e block, crank and conrods, and due to good old Toyota doing a decent job, everythhing from the 4efte fits straight in, pistons, heads etc! So basically, you take the 4e sump and oil return, it bolts straight on, same with the thermo housing, and the oil filter and feed housing bolts straight on too. Headgaskets Toyota OE and bolts are about £35 and will hold 250hp all day long.
If you get the 5efhe you get the benefit of 300WHEELhp proven conrods, long duration cams, and a saving of about £1000 on the build because for forged conrods to handle similar, the block needs notching etc, plus the cost of shimming aftermarket cams too
So slap a set of forged pistons in there and you will be looking at a 300WHP capable motor for about 1k
The problem is finding a 5efhe motor, as most people cant tell the difference!
Tyres, what ever works for you, I love my set up and wouldnt change it for the world. But it might not work for you and the way you drive, but I know at least 5 people who have been out in mine and changed their tyres to the same as mine because it seems to work!
What you are also forgetting is you are only running like 15" rims on it, my Yokos are £42 a corner fitted....
The 1.5ltr engine is from a toyota Sera or Cynos, both JDM imports only.
It comes with a combination of either 5EFE, or 5EFHE engines.
This is not like the 2.5 upgrade as these engines arent crap! They have CDB etc, and is basically a larger stroker kit.
The 5e though been non turbo, means a bit of work is required to make it suitable for the Glanza/GT. There are no oil returns and feeds for the turbo, same with water feeds etc. Thecompression is too high, and a few other bits and a few other bits and pieces.
So to combat this, you use the 5e block, crank and conrods, and due to good old Toyota doing a decent job, everythhing from the 4efte fits straight in, pistons, heads etc! So basically, you take the 4e sump and oil return, it bolts straight on, same with the thermo housing, and the oil filter and feed housing bolts straight on too. Headgaskets Toyota OE and bolts are about £35 and will hold 250hp all day long.
If you get the 5efhe you get the benefit of 300WHEELhp proven conrods, long duration cams, and a saving of about £1000 on the build because for forged conrods to handle similar, the block needs notching etc, plus the cost of shimming aftermarket cams too
So slap a set of forged pistons in there and you will be looking at a 300WHP capable motor for about 1k
The problem is finding a 5efhe motor, as most people cant tell the difference!
Tyres, what ever works for you, I love my set up and wouldnt change it for the world. But it might not work for you and the way you drive, but I know at least 5 people who have been out in mine and changed their tyres to the same as mine because it seems to work!
What you are also forgetting is you are only running like 15" rims on it, my Yokos are £42 a corner fitted....
I think the 1551cc engine would be worth while then if I ever encountered an engine failure, etc so that I wont have to fork out thousands on a rebuild and other mods.
If you do remove the power steering please post up your experience with it just so that I will be 100 percent when I do it.
Could you post up any links for any websites which sell parts for starlets relatively cheap and are of a good quality
.Regards,
Subaru Collector 555.
17 May 2014, 03:05 PM
#23
I have become too familar with the expensive subaru prices lol, at least I will be able to run this along with my other cars and still be affordable.
I think the 1551cc engine would be worth while then if I ever encountered an engine failure, etc so that I wont have to fork out thousands on a rebuild and other mods.
If you do remove the power steering please post up your experience with it just so that I will be 100 percent when I do it.
Could you post up any links for any websites which sell parts for starlets relatively cheap and are of a good quality.
Regards,
Subaru Collector 555.
I think the 1551cc engine would be worth while then if I ever encountered an engine failure, etc so that I wont have to fork out thousands on a rebuild and other mods.
If you do remove the power steering please post up your experience with it just so that I will be 100 percent when I do it.
Could you post up any links for any websites which sell parts for starlets relatively cheap and are of a good quality
.Regards,
Subaru Collector 555.
Ebay too
I might go hunt my 5efhe engine out from the shed, half tempted to rebuild it now I am talking about it lol!
To be honest I might take the belt off as it only goes from the crank pulley to the PAS pump and see what its like!
I love my starlet, everything is so easy, I can do an engine swap in a little over 2hrs if it goes well. I can actually lift the engine out by hand, and if its too low for the jack I just pick it up to get the clearance
It is cheap reliable fun, it might not be the best or the fastest car on the road, but there isnt much else that is so simple to work on and gives so many smiles, the R5GTT and Punto GTT tried to do it, but they just arent reliable, the Ibizia Cupra R tried but its not light enough the only other things comparable IMO are like the Diahatsu GTXX's etc. 750cc 3 cylinder forged turbo'd from the factory
Or the Storia X4....So what are your plans for it?
17 May 2014, 04:04 PM
#24
Scooby Senior
I'd go for a RWD car for a track car, much more rewarding!
I built a 328i compact with suspension and LSD for under 1500, it's had to go as we now have a baby so I've upgraded to an M3 Evo saloon (still sub 3k to buy)
Awesome track car and I loved it at the 'Ring
I built a 328i compact with suspension and LSD for under 1500, it's had to go as we now have a baby so I've upgraded to an M3 Evo saloon (still sub 3k to buy)
Awesome track car and I loved it at the 'Ring
17 May 2014, 04:18 PM
#25
200hp in a car that weighs 800kg? I know what I would rather have
17 May 2014, 04:36 PM
#26
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Generally, toyota OE is all you need! Ebay or BidJDM for TRD stuff. Tuning developments for anything out of the ordinary, WEPR or Zisco for turbo kits, SpeedvisionCPS are the cheapest for forged parts, Camskill for OE or blueprint.
Ebay too
I might go hunt my 5efhe engine out from the shed, half tempted to rebuild it now I am talking about it lol!
To be honest I might take the belt off as it only goes from the crank pulley to the PAS pump and see what its like!
I love my starlet, everything is so easy, I can do an engine swap in a little over 2hrs if it goes well. I can actually lift the engine out by hand, and if its too low for the jack I just pick it up to get the clearance
It is cheap reliable fun, it might not be the best or the fastest car on the road, but there isnt much else that is so simple to work on and gives so many smiles, the R5GTT and Punto GTT tried to do it, but they just arent reliable, the Ibizia Cupra R tried but its not light enough the only other things comparable IMO are like the Diahatsu GTXX's etc. 750cc 3 cylinder forged turbo'd from the factory Or the Storia X4....
So what are your plans for it?
Ebay too
I might go hunt my 5efhe engine out from the shed, half tempted to rebuild it now I am talking about it lol!
To be honest I might take the belt off as it only goes from the crank pulley to the PAS pump and see what its like!
I love my starlet, everything is so easy, I can do an engine swap in a little over 2hrs if it goes well. I can actually lift the engine out by hand, and if its too low for the jack I just pick it up to get the clearance
It is cheap reliable fun, it might not be the best or the fastest car on the road, but there isnt much else that is so simple to work on and gives so many smiles, the R5GTT and Punto GTT tried to do it, but they just arent reliable, the Ibizia Cupra R tried but its not light enough the only other things comparable IMO are like the Diahatsu GTXX's etc. 750cc 3 cylinder forged turbo'd from the factory
Or the Storia X4....So what are your plans for it?
Well I have been looking at ones for sale atm and there are not that many around which makes searching for the right one a bit more diffucult. I would like to get one with majority of the bits added to it but if I cant I wont be dissapointed as it will just add to the fun. I would want to get a later model of the GTs as im not a big fan of the mk1s, I think it looks better with the quad lamps.
It would probably be a complete track only purpose built as I still have the scoobys for everyday life. First would be to buy one get it looked over and then start collecing parts for the 200hp achievement. Then depending on how I feel maybe more power but with a 1.5 displacement
.Do you need to get these remapped as you can run boost controllers AFAIK but I dont think you can turn the boost up that high and still avoid detonation?
Regards,
Subaru Collector 555.
17 May 2014, 04:42 PM
#27
Scooby Senior
Its more rewarding because you are being pushed around the track rather than being pulled, I'd rather oversteer than understeer although at the 'ring I had crap toyos on the front and decent and slightly wider contis on the back and it was a very neutral car with a hint of understeer if you pushed a little too hard.
It's not all about the power, if it was, I'd use the wife's C63 PP+
It's not all about the power, if it was, I'd use the wife's C63 PP+
17 May 2014, 07:01 PM
#28
Do it Do it Do it!
Well I have been looking at ones for sale atm and there are not that many around which makes searching for the right one a bit more diffucult. I would like to get one with majority of the bits added to it but if I cant I wont be dissapointed as it will just add to the fun. I would want to get a later model of the GTs as im not a big fan of the mk1s, I think it looks better with the quad lamps.
It would probably be a complete track only purpose built as I still have the scoobys for everyday life. First would be to buy one get it looked over and then start collecing parts for the 200hp achievement. Then depending on how I feel maybe more power but with a 1.5 displacement.
Do you need to get these remapped as you can run boost controllers AFAIK but I dont think you can turn the boost up that high and still avoid detonation?
Regards,
Subaru Collector 555.
Well I have been looking at ones for sale atm and there are not that many around which makes searching for the right one a bit more diffucult. I would like to get one with majority of the bits added to it but if I cant I wont be dissapointed as it will just add to the fun. I would want to get a later model of the GTs as im not a big fan of the mk1s, I think it looks better with the quad lamps.
It would probably be a complete track only purpose built as I still have the scoobys for everyday life. First would be to buy one get it looked over and then start collecing parts for the 200hp achievement. Then depending on how I feel maybe more power but with a 1.5 displacement
.Do you need to get these remapped as you can run boost controllers AFAIK but I dont think you can turn the boost up that high and still avoid detonation?
Regards,
Subaru Collector 555.
That shell looks like kind of what you are after then really! Dont fancy a Glanza? I could be convinced to pass mine on, I dont want to but I know I have no use for it with the scooby been my track toy!
Its more rewarding because you are being pushed around the track rather than being pulled, I'd rather oversteer than understeer although at the 'ring I had crap toyos on the front and decent and slightly wider contis on the back and it was a very neutral car with a hint of understeer if you pushed a little too hard.
It's not all about the power, if it was, I'd use the wife's C63 PP+
It's not all about the power, if it was, I'd use the wife's C63 PP+
17 May 2014, 07:46 PM
#29
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Anything under 0.7bar the ecu can cope with it is just worth getting checked out before you start razzing it around, anything over 0.7bar you will need a piggyback ecu (Emanage blue, about 200notes + fitting and remap) or a Fuel pressure regulator and a fuel cut defender. It isnt the way I would do it, id go with the emanage blue and do it properly
That shell looks like kind of what you are after then really! Dont fancy a Glanza? I could be convinced to pass mine on, I dont want to but I know I have no use for it with the scooby been my track toy!
That shell looks like kind of what you are after then really! Dont fancy a Glanza? I could be convinced to pass mine on, I dont want to but I know I have no use for it with the scooby been my track toy!
What are running costs like when they are driven around normally and when they are on track? Also do these need V-Power/Tesco 99 or can they have normal fuel?
Regards,
Subaru Collector 555.
Last edited by User 21721; 17 May 2014 at 07:48 PM.
17 May 2014, 08:08 PM
#30
99 fuel only unless remapped to suit The ecu has a bit more leeway than most though ive ran mine on 95 when there has been nothing else but i havent given it stick with that in it!
I was just having the same thought, to £20 of tesco 99 at 133.9p/l I did just over 125 miles.... It was a mixture of driving but quite alot of beans were given across the moors....
I just worked out, that was 38.07mpg....!
Well, that shell looks perfect for you to put your mark on and make a track toy...!
The ecu has a bit more leeway than most though ive ran mine on 95 when there has been nothing else but i havent given it stick with that in it!I was just having the same thought, to £20 of tesco 99 at 133.9p/l I did just over 125 miles.... It was a mixture of driving but quite alot of beans were given across the moors....
I just worked out, that was 38.07mpg....!
Well, that shell looks perfect for you to put your mark on and make a track toy...!
Last edited by JGlanzaV; 17 May 2014 at 08:10 PM.