Rover help!
#1
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The Rover problems continue...
Just got back in from the garage after getting mother-in-law's Rover 220 Sli back together, and it won't go!
There's compression - 10 bar on the compression gauge on each cylinder...
There seem to be sparks
There seems to be fuel (although I can't tell if it's enough or too much)
The timing is correct as far as I can see.
If anything it seems to be running lean, as when you pump the throttle, it will fire for a few strokes and then stop.
What am I dong wrong??? Please help, as I'm getting very annoyed!
Just got back in from the garage after getting mother-in-law's Rover 220 Sli back together, and it won't go!
There's compression - 10 bar on the compression gauge on each cylinder...
There seem to be sparks
There seems to be fuel (although I can't tell if it's enough or too much)
The timing is correct as far as I can see.
If anything it seems to be running lean, as when you pump the throttle, it will fire for a few strokes and then stop.
What am I dong wrong??? Please help, as I'm getting very annoyed!
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I put it on there this morning. But thanks Maybe it will get some more exposure.
I don't want to have to lend my Scoob to my mother in law!
I don't want to have to lend my Scoob to my mother in law!
#6
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I posted on co.uk, as I can't post on the .com one yet, until I get the registration confirmation
I wanted to add:
I think the timing could be 180 degrees out, as last night when I checked the timing (again) the cam timing marks seemed to be reversed when the peg fitted in the flywheel. I didn't think I'd got the peg in right (or I'd misread the timing marks), so I turned the engine over again and it looked OK. Is it known to have 2 holes in the flywheel? That's the only way I can see it happening...
I wanted to add:
I think the timing could be 180 degrees out, as last night when I checked the timing (again) the cam timing marks seemed to be reversed when the peg fitted in the flywheel. I didn't think I'd got the peg in right (or I'd misread the timing marks), so I turned the engine over again and it looked OK. Is it known to have 2 holes in the flywheel? That's the only way I can see it happening...
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http://www.roverload.com/forum/index.php?act=ST&f=2&t=4348&s=128f1be0679e09c89b85 db25ec7367f3
this is the link to your thread, somone thinks that is likely to be the timing.
They can take a while to get back to you with confirmation that you are in
this is the link to your thread, somone thinks that is likely to be the timing.
They can take a while to get back to you with confirmation that you are in
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#9
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This is getting annoying not being able to post answers...
Hopefully they will get back to me shortly!
I replaced 2 exhaust valves on cyl 1. That worked. I get compression there now, where there wasn't any before.
There looks to be good sparks on the plugs when they are held near the engine. They are gapped correctly (and I cooked them with a blow torch to make sure they weren't petrol soaked)
All the wires & connectors that were disturbed have been cleaned
There is nothing obvious wrong with the dizzy.
Hopefully they will get back to me shortly!
I replaced 2 exhaust valves on cyl 1. That worked. I get compression there now, where there wasn't any before.
There looks to be good sparks on the plugs when they are held near the engine. They are gapped correctly (and I cooked them with a blow torch to make sure they weren't petrol soaked)
All the wires & connectors that were disturbed have been cleaned
There is nothing obvious wrong with the dizzy.
#11
dnb,
Assuming you've got the HT leads running to the correct plugs ('appens ... )impossible to say from here but it could be out particularly when you say:
>> as when you pump the throttle, it will fire for a few strokes and then stop. <<
This plus your comments about the timing marks are strong clues. One possible quick check for you would be to get No.1 cylinder up on comprssion stroke then check the position of the rotor within the distributor. It should be aligned with the No.1 HT lead terminal within the distributor. Do this with the plugs removed - easier to turn engine that way.
This technique or similar ones should work for most cars.
Otherwise, immobiliser? ... sufficient fuel? etc .... check all the usual suspects. Usually something simple is overlooked and a systematic check could reveal this..
Good luck. ...
Assuming you've got the HT leads running to the correct plugs ('appens ... )impossible to say from here but it could be out particularly when you say:
>> as when you pump the throttle, it will fire for a few strokes and then stop. <<
This plus your comments about the timing marks are strong clues. One possible quick check for you would be to get No.1 cylinder up on comprssion stroke then check the position of the rotor within the distributor. It should be aligned with the No.1 HT lead terminal within the distributor. Do this with the plugs removed - easier to turn engine that way.
This technique or similar ones should work for most cars.
Otherwise, immobiliser? ... sufficient fuel? etc .... check all the usual suspects. Usually something simple is overlooked and a systematic check could reveal this..
Good luck. ...
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I've given up for the night now. Getting too mad with it to think straight. (So could have missed several things)
Right now I'm charging the battery, I have the battery disconnected to attempt to reset the ECU and will be looking more closely at the immobiliser in the light tomorrow morning. (It said it was off, but I'm not sure I believe it now...)
I will have another look at the cams tomorrow as well, just to double check things.
It should be a bit warmer as well, so there's more chance of getting a sulky car running.
Thanks all - I'm not letting this one beat me!
Right now I'm charging the battery, I have the battery disconnected to attempt to reset the ECU and will be looking more closely at the immobiliser in the light tomorrow morning. (It said it was off, but I'm not sure I believe it now...)
I will have another look at the cams tomorrow as well, just to double check things.
It should be a bit warmer as well, so there's more chance of getting a sulky car running.
Thanks all - I'm not letting this one beat me!
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Well, there's some good news now. The engine will run, but it's filthy rich! I think that there's an issue with the ECU now - it's not seeing the temperature sensor signal right. Other than that, I think it has been beaten!
In the end, there was nothing wrong with the timing, just the immobiliser acting up as the battery had been disconnected. Grr, always the silliest thing.
[Edited by dnb - 2/2/2003 12:15:45 AM]
In the end, there was nothing wrong with the timing, just the immobiliser acting up as the battery had been disconnected. Grr, always the silliest thing.
[Edited by dnb - 2/2/2003 12:15:45 AM]
#16
I can sympathise, I replace the engine in an 820 SLI and used the flywheel from the new engine as it had a better clutch (new engine from same year car) and it wouldnt run, turned out that flywheel from the old engine needed to be used due to the reluctor marks on the back of the flywheel being different !
What a nightmare.
What a nightmare.
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When your parents decide whether they are going to go to Newport Tyres (& try to get the cat checked out at the same time) or get me to mail order a backbox and fit it.
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