A collegue at work is selling his R5 '91 H reg 38K miler. He's had it from new and is totally original and always garaged.

I don't know what to offer, but I'd like to get away with as little as possible of course

Any experts out there????

F

 

bout a quid

e-mail if your interested

 

There going fairly cheap in the Trader, anywhere from £500-£1500 for the super duper modded ones.

Would be nice for £500'ish though .....

Nath

 

Floyd, don't do it mate!

Unless you plan to change the pocket sized radiator, and all the hoses which are due to dissintegrate any time now.

Then there is the clutch. If it's not perfect then soon you'll be taking out the engine and gearbox to change it.

And don't forget the wiring loom. Mine went on fire when the fan jammed on. If only renualt had put the fuse in the right place

Insurance is fun too, and if some drunk Bar-steward decides to drive into it while it's parked you can expect it to be written off as the body kit is no longer made. I paid 1700 for mine three years agon and was only given 900 six months later when it was totalled. But hey, I bought it back of the insurance, fixed it up and sold it to the milk-man for 500 squid....but that's another story

The car is great fun but you need to keep an eye on your rear-view mirror to see what's fallen off.

Dave.

 

I'll give a box of matches and 14 bensons for it !!!!!!!!!!!!!.

Cheers RAZZ.

p.s. they're worth more than the £1 he was offered earlier.

 

Oh, I thought that original and unmolested examples would be as rare as hens teeth. This ones only got 38K on the clock and thats for real.

Surely it's got to be worth something? I bet the R5 BBS (if there is such a thing) would cream themselves at the thought of this?

Oh well, another plan dashed...
F

 

buy it!! totally underated performance car, it will blow away all modern so called hot hatches in standard form and can be easily tuned. up to 300horses can be extracted from its 1.4 engine.where else can you buy so much performance for so little cash? recent car magazine bought one for £300 quid then tuned it to 300horses.

 

I'm not really interested in making it go any quicker, just looking for some cheap, but fun, transport. Then when I'm bored I'll sell it for the same (or more) money.

Well that's the plan.

F

 

Ok, so maybe I was a little harsh at first

I think I just bought a Lemon from the start. It was totally abused by the time I got it.

If you're talking about a standard low mileage job then it's probably a pretty good wee car. I would love another one myself to be honest but I was a bit put off

I wouldn't advice trying to get more power out of it. As the man says, it's only a 1.4!! and worse still, it's the same 1.4 they put in the non turbo cars so it's already being stretched.

It's very quick straight out the box anyway, and you'll blow just about every modern hot-hatch out of the water.

I would use all the points I mentioned earlier wgen negotiating a price. I would think that about 1400 would be a fair price.

Total guess there, did you notice lol.

Dave.

 

Can somebody in the know answer a question?

The R5 head, 8v push rod?

I also thought that the valves needed leaded petrol, or is that on early types? If so at what year did they start running unleaded heads?

Thanks

Justin

 

I think it is a pushrod engine.

I have sold my R5 Turbo, white, 53k and F.R.S.H, folder full of reciepts, spare parts, etc for £3000.

Prices for these car range from anything to aouple of hundred to a couple of thousand, it all depends on the condition. It is very hard to find a perfect example. When the guy came to look at my R5, he spent about 2hrs going over the car. He did not find a single fault and he said this is the best R5 he has seen and it does not compare to the other R5's.

With 38k on the clock the car should be mint and should have fsh. Be careful of blue smoke, increased boost (Should be done by a ro), slipping clutch, check the head gasket. The std turbo is capable of handling about 14 psi boost, but any higher than this it requires a alloy intercooler, jets changed in the carb, silicone boost hoses and a bigger turbo. With higher boost levels u will need a uprated head gasket, silicone hoses and uprated clutch.

If u have any mods done, ie higher boost then make sure u sort out the fuelling, as u dont want it to run lean on the top end.

Check out www.gtturbo.org for further info. This is the official R5 Turbo site, it has links to tuners, people selling their cars, advice, etc.

Finnally owning a R5 Turbo will require a bit maintence now and then. As something tends to break or fall of. When the car is running right it will be perfect, but when something goes wrong, it is a pain in the backside.

Best of luck mate.

Vinesh.

 

"Oh, I thought that original and unmolested examples would be as rare as hens teeth. This ones only got 38K on the clock and thats for real.

Surely it's got to be worth something? I bet the R5 BBS (if there is such a thing) would cream themselves at the thought of this?

Oh well, another plan dashed..."

U r right, a car with this much milage will be snapped up very quickly on the Renault 5 club site and at a high price. Offer him £1500 and see what he says, if he accepts then u have got a bargain. if the price is too low, then up it by a couple of hundred, say £2000.

Vinesh

 

I wouldnt pay much more than 1500 pounds for it now,I have had 3 of these cars in the past ( 10 years ago ).The first one I bought was an E reg just under 3 years old with 40,000 on the clock I only paid 2400 then one owner, In 12 months I replaced the turbo- main seal went,head gasket and bottom end due to over heating big crack in one of the bores,inter cooler blew the bottom off this and back box when the car back fired and blew the box apart.Sold that one for 1500 and bought an f reg with mods running at 170 brake for 900 pounds from a mate, kept that for 3 months due to nearly losing licience.Then I went backwords a bought a d reg from another mate for about 800 pounds,and its right what people say when you change a clutch its engine out.
This sort of car has kept a good value but be aware that they are exspensive to run if they go wrong,unless you are willing to get your hands dirty.All the repairs I done myself,so if you need any info, get in touch.

 

Not being funny, my mate has a R5 GT turbo and when accelerating once almost went up the back of me, when his turbo came in (MY00) and I was flat out. Running 35 Psi, but cheap to mod.

Floyd if your looking for a cheap run around, do it!! Parts are expensive though! They are resonable quick standard.

Cheers Phill C

PS Can ask him what it is worth tomorrow if you like

 

How much fun could you possibly get for £1500, buy it but dont use it as a daily driver cos it`s gonna break and let you down. Tune it sensibly i`ve heard of so many kids getting em and fitting a dump valve and boost control and nothing else !!!! cranking up the boost and blowing the little 1.4 to kingdom come, replace the puny intercooler first then fit a group N side exit exhaust, followed by uprating all the pipework and hey presto 15psi of scooby munching mayhem !!!!!! flamesuit on

 

I've had a couple of these over the years, the last of which (a 91 'J'reg) i had for three and a half very happy years!
The models made after 1990 (H reg +) are suitable for use with unleaded petrol, but run best on SUL.
My car ran with a std spec turbo technics blower, running at 16psi low boost, and adjustable to 27psi).
If you're gonna up the boost over 15psi, then a dump valve is essential. Over 20 psi, then it may be worth fitting 2 of them! (i did).
These cars are amazingly cheap to tune, and if you don't mind a little bit of DIY, you can have a flame throwing monster for a couple of hundred quid tops!!!
Re jetting the std carb is a 10 minute job, requiring a different main jet and air corrector jet (the latter if running silly boost!). These only cost a couple of pounds each.
I used the standard intercooler, but opened it, steam cleaned it, removed the thermostat from the flap and repleced with an M10 bolt to keep the intercooler flap open. Then strapped it up tight with stainless steel strapping.
Standard hoses where wrapped in duck tape to stop them bellowing out with the high boost (std hoses will take 18 psi all day, every day, without wrapping em in tape!).
TDC sensor was removed and i elongated the holes to advance/retard the ignition myself.
I fitted a Water injection kit (only cost £18!) and fitted the nozzle (£10 escort cosworth item from ford motorsport) over the top of the carb in the plenum chamber. Overboost switch was disconnected, set to switch at 16psi, and then used to energise the water injection pumps (2x Cavalier screen washer pumps!). Used one of the spare lamps on the clocks (diesel pre-heater i think) to show when water injection was running.
Had no pinking at all ever!!!
Scorpion exhaust system was a good investment, and sounds amazing (that turbo gurggle! - Yummy!)
It ran 172Bhp on well lanes rolling road @ 19psi boost!
Also ran a 14.203 quater at santa pod (Ultimate Fast Car 1996!)

These cars respond very well to cylinder head work, and with the right head, and a matched hybrid turbocharger, will run well over 200 Bhp!

The only mechanical failure i had was both front wheel bearings, and due to the standard clutch slipping, it was replaced with a Volvo 440 turbo clutch kit for £80 (just a case of lifting the engine out) - "Simon A" is the top dog for removing/replacing GT turbo engines in record time!!!

There are loads of crap examles out there, so the more untouched it is, the fewer problems you'll have. Just make sure it's had all of it's factory recalls! Most importantly, the fuse to the Anti Percolation fan.

Best Advice: NEVER let the temp gauge go much above the 2/3rd mark! If it starts to climb towards the red, switch off your engine immediatly as it will warp the head!

 

I had what is now the Qtr mile record holder at 12.6secs. Which is better than the 13.6 I got out of it.
That spec was wire wrung and capable of 35psi.

But it was never as reliable as it was when it was standard with just a little bit of uprated boost.

Fun cars and easy to get power and modify (Volvo Clutches (AKA GPN)as mentioned), but once you pass a certain point, they fail. and at 865quid for a new turbo, its expensive. Especially when they fail at Trax as you overtake a cossie!.

Short bursts of power over 20psi should only be attempted.

I wouldnt buy an unmodified one though as you will only tinker!.

 

NBC was your £18 water injection kit a super soaker? ... Sorry.

I got annihilated by a Turbo 2 (the big arch one?) years ago.
I was on a Gpz 750 and it was about the same in a roll-on then we came to a corner... byeeee. Never saw it again.

 

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention, a good dump valve to use is the Cossie air bypass valve. Cheap, but effective for anything upto 23psi when you need to think about kevlar or nylon reinforced diaphram valves.

And the cossie jet is a good mod as are hozelock irrigation jets spraying the intercooler on the track.