We'll agree to disagree on that one then ;)
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Your welcome to come show me the ropes with tuning Opensource? Maybe that would change my mind, I'm in the north of Scotland.
Here's the ecu; http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...psqfy1senu.jpg |
Originally Posted by boosted
(Post 11623587)
Tfi? Lol
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Loads of info available on Romraider forums or bring it here and I'll tune it for you ;)
We offer SD mapping of the stock ecu inc ALS, launch control, switchable mapping and flat shifting. |
Originally Posted by joz8968
(Post 11623842)
Top feed injector. ;)
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Originally Posted by MartynJ
(Post 11623843)
Loads of info available on Romraider forums or bring it here and I'll tune it for you ;)
We offer SD mapping of the stock ecu inc ALS, launch control, switchable mapping and flat shifting. Whoever mapped my car just shafted the map higher up the airflow to make it stinking rich, so people like me couldn't run a bigger turbo and more boost. I have done launch control, map switching and flat shift, all with MS. Launch control is good, flat shift wasn't so good, map switching handy for fuel variations etc |
The SD mapping is mafless ;)
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Originally Posted by The Pink Ninja
(Post 11623877)
The SD mapping is mafless ;)
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Checked my valve clearances, ones a bit tight, popped the shim out of it without removing the cams etc, I'll give it a haircut on the surface grinder the morn.
http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...psy2ezksf7.jpg |
Originally Posted by boosted
(Post 11623925)
Checked my valve clearances, ones a bit tight, popped the shim out of it without removing the cams etc, I'll give it a haircut on the surface grinder the morn.
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Originally Posted by piehole1983
(Post 11623932)
Seen someone bodge the shims of a rover engine on a bench grinder once, didn't end well lol.
Not what I'm doing! |
Originally Posted by boosted
(Post 11623998)
I see, good job that's Not what I'm doing!
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Originally Posted by piehole1983
(Post 11623999)
I know, just saying since you mentioned shims
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Originally Posted by boosted
(Post 11624014)
On the likes of the xud and 1.7 Isuzu engine you could grind them on a bench grinder as they sat on the valves and not the camshaft, obviously you need to pay attention! Lots of these engines refused to start due to tight valve clearances, slacker the better!
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M7 would quickly turn into m8 lol!
I broke one of the m6 bolts on my camshaft caps, drilled it out and made a right mess. Ended up drilling and tapping it m10 and locktighted an m10 insert in that I drilled and tapped m6 in the lathe. I was quite happy with the repair actually! Better than it was to start with. On another note after removing the AEM piggyback last week my car is back to being stinking rich in boost. 10:1 displayed (flicks 10.2/10.0) So I've just tossed 5l of methanol in there (10%) to see if that leans it off lol |
Engine is in and running, took old one out, swapped ancillaries and put back in with new flywheel and six puk clutch all on Saturday! Will run it for a week and do oil change.
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Pics?
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Originally Posted by ScottyPPP
(Post 11642743)
Pics?
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Originally Posted by boosted
(Post 11642147)
Engine is in and running, took old one out, swapped ancillaries and put back in with new flywheel and six puk clutch all on Saturday! Will run it for a week and do oil change.
I am about to swap the short block on mine , Is anything particular to be careful about on the head swap / need any special tools ? I intend using the old bolts , 2 stage torqued then with 2 extra qtr turns What did you do ? |
Originally Posted by Linksfahrer
(Post 11644476)
Nice to hear you have the engine in :thumb:
I am about to swap the short block on mine , Is anything particular to be careful about on the head swap / need any special tools ? I intend using the old bolts , 2 stage torqued then with 2 extra qtr turns What did you do ? The biggest problem you will have is the cam pulley bolts! They are hellish tight. Don't use the torque wrench on the cam cap bolts, they tend to snap easily, best do them by "feel". Not a bad job by any means. Just keep it clean. Cam belt is easy with the engine on the stand. Make sure you torque the flywheel bolts to 75/80 nm. Crank pulley can come slack too if not tightened up FT. Oh also check your valve clearances, I had one tight exhaust valve (.002") the rest were 6-8 thou and seem to be fine at that. |
Over 100 miles done now first oil and filter change done last night.
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Good news :)
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Nice, got 8k on mine now! :o
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Originally Posted by ScottyPPP
(Post 11644989)
Nice, got 8k on mine now! :o
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Originally Posted by boosted
(Post 11644991)
Be ready for a rebuild again scotty! 😂
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Any updates on this mate?
Regards, Subaru Collector 555. |
Originally Posted by Subaru Collector 555
(Post 11662517)
Any updates on this mate?
Regards, Subaru Collector 555. Once I sort my rpm niggles I'm going to fit TGV deletes and bigger injectors, then swap over to completely standalone on the MS. I have a very accurate timing map that I've robbed from my car, will be a good base to start with. On another note I ran the car at my local dragstrip, good news is it never broke, a coupe 1.8 second 60ft's. Running a soggy tune of 10.8:1 and low boost of only 1.2 bar I managed a 13.5 second quarter, which is bang on for the state of tune just now. Shakedown complete, it's time for a bigger turbo and more boost! On target for dipping into the 12's this year. |
Tell a lie, it did break, first run I snapped the gear knob off on the first gear change! All future runs were ran with just the stick, very uncomfortable! Still I made this gear knob and fitted it on the Monday, also shortened the stick by about an inch.
http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...pszulkfafy.jpg |
VR sensor mount I machined to fit subaru sensor in
http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...psf8z0nthd.jpg |
VR sensor mounted along with mazda trigger wheel
http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...pslxwy5da7.jpg |
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