I always think outside the box!
I thought a smaller engine would
Be more prone to surge? Simply because the engine cannot consume the air supplied.
I will make a short loom and take it with me, along with some pipe, that way I can run either, see wht the man says on the day.
Anyone had bother with fuel pump controller not working after being unplugged??

Umm 3500 , ok / perhaps most consider that normal for 20G ?

But what boost do you see at 3000 ? I must not convinced that without the 3 port that you can control as well at the bottom range , and as many on here claim a 20G is laggy , it would interest me if you could get a even better mapped effect on the 3 port than I did when I just tuned the WG actuator in an attempt to compensate the 2 ports failings.

Whatever , Now that I have the my Pistons/ACL bottom end in. :norty: I m keen to see the boost torque curve once your done , Im a bit worried about noticing extra lag from going up a turbo size or two to 18G/20G on mine. Personally Id trade across the band 20-25 bhp at max for same torque but to achieve it 400-500 rpm lower.

Aye but with a smaller engine you get less exhaust gasses to spin it up to/past the surge line as well. Also at the higher RPM's when some of the wastegate springs start to open you can keep the power on a little longer with a 3port where the 2port even at 95% duty just can't do it.

As you say though it's an easy swap so fire on with the 2port and if your not getting the results you want a few minutes will have it switched out. Get the dyno graphs up when your done!

I'm with you in the holding boost high rpm thing.
Not sure I will get dyno graphs as it's all mapped on the road.

I'll double check, I'm getting about .5 bar at 3000 rpm, I'll let you know later exactly what boost I get at what RPM.
My 16g made 1.5 bar by 3200, but won't hold that past 5000 rpm, boost starts to drop considerably after 5k.

you can still get a virtual dyno printout, won't be balls on accurate but will give you an idea beyond what the butt dyno confirms.

I found the same with the 16g btw, except I can push on past 5000rpm with the 3port, but with my STI pinks I need to reign it back a bit :(

Aye but your running on parafin though mind.
What AFR are you aiming for with your 95 Ron petrol?

hey - that's 98 octane rat piss you, none of your 95 malarky! Currently sitting around 11.20 and the EGT's seem happy so might go a bit leaner still just to squeeze a little more PSI from the snail.

Do you have to start it on petrol and then swap over into the 98 once it's warm?
I'm actually thinking a 16g might be a better turbo. Hmmm, have to make my mind up!

swap to 98? no no mr it's just 98 octane super unleaded from the pump. Are you thinking of e85?

The 16g has been good to me, but the 20g just seems to be more of everything with only a little less spoolup to get going. An 18g could be a middle ground compromise but you'll always be wondering what more the 20g could give you up top.

I was meaning like an old grey fergie petrol parafin tractor! Ha!
Aye I'll go with the 20g, bigger is always better!

hah - yeh except when it comes to knock count :D - fergie tractor indeed, my exhaust isn't that big!

Good banter 👍
I've ordered the 3 port, also ordered a gallon of 10-50 from opie and some ngk 7's.

Ok so I have .5 bar by 2800, 1.0 bar by 3500 and 1.3 bar by 3600 ish

Stinking rich as it comes on full boost, leans off to 11.5:1 as it revs out at 1.2 bar. I'd imagine that's these injectors maxed out at 1.2 bar. Also the timing will be retarded to hell on boost i would imagine.
It's flowing above what it's mapped for so the injectors will be 100% and timing dead retarded for safety.

Ok Just do the FPR cheat and gain yourself that little bit of head room. (attached) you will like this because it won#t cost you a penny, but it may be enough to keep your engine at full boost even for a touch longer , but 1.3 bar on a 20g is already hefty amount of flow.

Without plenty of DC head room you will have to be careful of not overheating No 3 . In top/above 6-6500rpm Id be thinking to start tapering that down a touch , but presumably you don't fly around at >140 mph like I am inclined to do over here.

This is on my 440 cc injectors, I'll not be touching the car until the night before remap, when it will get the bigger injectors.
I'm running 1.2 bar up the revs, but not making any good power as the timing is very retarded.
I don't drive fast very often at all.

If you do decide to swap the injectors, before you drive to remap on 560s you can but then do keep below 3200 rpm , as otheriwise as the boost comes the ECU will work out the mix is all wrong and pull timing on you and eventually CEL , I managed to drive mine from Frankfurt to Wakefield and the only problem was at Liege where coming out of the valley I had to give it a bit more, If it happens just pullover and pull the battery lead to reset, otherwise you will maybe not restart her. Best of luck :thumb:

Cool, I did contemplate fitting the injectors down there, only takes 20 minutes. I'll see how I feel nearer the time

Id say its more likely to take you a little longer , but I'm left handed so who knows , do be careful :poke: that they are seated well under the rails as they bend a bit when you torque everything back up, especially once if you have been cheating the FPR , Id hate us to loose a good
Scoobynet contributor after a single "burn up the motorway" :wonder::wonder::wonder:

I've done it about four times recently, id say 15 minutes tops. There is a lot of brackets missing now mate!
The longest wait is letting the engine cool down as you say...

Oh might be buying another turbo, Andy says my Chinese 20g is a gamble and could make anything between 330-400 hp, I don't particularly want that risk for the money and time that is now involved! Spend hundreds the last few weeks, and I've not even got it mapped yet!
Look at something like a big 16g or an 18g.

i'd say 18g then if your looking at proper snails, the 16g will leave you wanting more as mine has

100% agree, I had a 16g running 1.45 bar (tapering off somewhat) and it was ace, but I felt it needed just a whiff more top end.
The biggest restriction I have is my std manifolds, I don't want to change them (to cracky, laggy tubular ones) so an 18g will probably get the best out of my set up, 360+ hp.
That's why I've bought something different lol 😂

What you really want is a bigger engine.

Been there, done that! I had a 2.9 24v v6 cosworth turbo in a Sierra and also a 2.8 24v vr6 4x4 golf, both were nippy enough. I like my wee 2.0! Plus it's still in the sub 2.0 class at dragstrip, you will be in the unlimited class

Unlimited, I like that, sounds way cooler :cool:

You've never had a lump bigger than 3.0?

Not with a turbo, no.
My golf was 440bhp and ran 12.5's.
My good mate has a 4.0 32v V8 in a supra with a GT4088 on it, aiming for 600hp this year. Tuning it on the road is interesting!
Unlimited, not so cool if your running against a Nissan gtr that does 11's! You will be wishing you had 100cc less and racing me instead.

Mine has never seen a Drag strip as it is so I think you'll be safe ;). I think it would be pretty handy at it though. I'd need more than 100cc less, mine is 2124cc.

Supra sounds interesting.

Not sure your organic clutch and five speed gearbox would like it!
Supra is useless! All that power and no grip!

New (old second hand) turbo ordered.
Genuine mitsubishi "big" TD05 16g. From an evo3. Should fit straight into my exhaust housing, compressor cover needs a little work but nothing major. Good for 360-380hp apparently. See what if looks like when it arrives.