Not yet, still got to drill
Holes in it for the actuator.
Waiting on a rebuild kit for the turbo, then I'll rebuild it and put it back together.
Hopefully do several hundred miles on the new turbo before the remap to ensure it's functionality.
It seems the "evo III big 16g" is quite popular state side, no one here has really embraced it much. Certainly in America they are buying brand new ones with the subaru housing already on, on tight feckers like me are making the evo housing work.

Turbo is stripped, ready for cleaning, inspection and rebuilding with new bearings and seals.
Attachment 46389

Banjo bolt 10-12
 

When I changed from the TD04 to the TD05 , I found that the water pipe delivered on the TD05 had no chance of passing under the housing , The alternative was buy a flexible braided water pipe ( aircraft supplies ) with the right size union for over a 100 notes. Not in my budget. So I simply used the TD04 one, not perhaps the optimum way as it does have a smaller bore , but it fits underneath. So if you are good with the hand file you can file a perfect flat on the old union and bore the inside diameter of the union out and match new/or drill the old copper washer to new ID for the new M12 Banjo . :thumb:

Both td05 housings I have, have water ways on opposite sides. So I can put one pipe on eack side no probs at all 👍

Nice work, so Subaru turbine housing goes straight on the back no issues, then just Mod the compressor housing....

If one was to happen across one of these turbo's would you fancy modding another housing.... :D

You can even buy the subaru specific housings off eBay, I was just too tight to do so.
And yeah it's a TD05h exhaust wheel and core so it fits no probs (was a chance I took, but I was fairly confident).
Just don't buy a turbo from an evo 4 or later.....

I vote we just send Boosted to Subuaru Technica to develop the next car. Then he won't have to change anything :-)

Ha!
I read somewhere about Andy Forrest putting an 18g on his 2.0 blob road car. He said that "this is how they should of come from the factory"
Can't find the read anywhere now though.

18G
 

That's funny , I remember that text too , and after investigating the boost supply and 2.0 engine requirement graphs came to the same conclusion. A roller bearing version of it , would be nice . So when are you going to do one for me ? :norty:

You supply the German beer and Aberdeen Angus steaks, I'll come over for a holiday mate 👍😂

For those who are interested, the differences between a "big 16g" and an "evo 3 big 16g".
Both are 68mm exducers on the compressor wheel, same as 18g and 20g (subaru 16g is 60mm).
The inducer is where it differs,
Evo 3 16g= 48.3mm
18g= 50mm
20g= 52mm
The subaru 16g is 46.5mm.
Attachment 46332

Interesting. Interesting.


Excellent research. I always wondered what the differences were between those two obruts (and by extension, the 18g and 20g).

Well done. You win £5. :D

Yeah, I wondered how a turbo with the same number of blades and the same wheel sizes could flow 20hp more! Obviously the smaller hub, thinner blades and lighter weight are doing something for it.
To be entirely honest I will be happy with a good 350-360 bhp, I think it will make for a good road car.

There's a decent looking one on Ebay atm for £200. + another £70 or so for a compressor housing. Hmmm.

I think my current 16G is 505 CFM and the Evo 3 is 550CFM? So it should be a noticeable difference I think.

You got a link mate?
505-550 cfm- about 20hp

Is it this one;
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=291499389766
If so that's the same guy I bought mine off. This is an evo1-2 big 16g and not an evo 3 big 16g.

One word: Inertia!

The nemesis of CHRAs. (Well, until you get into the realms of overspeeding - but that's for another discussion). ;)



You will, you will. ;)

A 'perfect' amount IMO - in terms of the £ per bhp, or the 'excitement/expenditure' ratio. ;)

It was that one yeah. What's the difference?

Look at the picture of the compressor wheels I posted above.

Is inertia not more to do with spool speed rather than hp flow rate?
I'd assume the thinner hub helps flow (bigger inducer blade area) thinner blades, obviously lighter, but may help flow for the same reason above.
Not sure really, just went with it on a whim, for £120 rebuilt it should do the business

Get the car finished and we can do a trip round the Ring.
Have a spare room for you , beer and grill provided.
PM me when your done.

That would be amazing! But I'm
Not sure my wife would let me, just away to have our second baby, I'm already pushing my luck getting a remap and going to Santa pod in sept (NHRA 1/4 mile finals).
The ring is good, been there once before, but only watching

Scotty Bear in mind pumping it in one side does not mean it flows out the other .

Thats the issue with the std 16G we have is , in order to get any decent power , say 340 bhp we are running well past out of the sweet spot on the turbo map with > 23 -25psi or more , its just not efficient. Anyone getting up over 350 bhp and running it with 15 psi ( 1 bar ) will have the right size turbo for the job and the flow sorted all the way through the head / exhaust. That's what I predict is going on with his Frankensteins 16G , its so cool coming out of the box.

Hm I see , still no rush
when they start as ankle snappers bring them & missy for a week
mine are 14 & 16 , So you'd be fine its a 5 bed house.

My turbo rebuild kit is here, hopefully get it all back together later, ready to bolt on.

Turbo is rebuilt, nice and tight now! Ready for some boost!
Attachment 46149

Is that just an ebay rebuild kit? Balancing it at all or just chucking it in?

Sure is, just needed bushes really, I've kept the original thrust bearing as there was nothing wrong with it.
No need to balance, I've not changed any of the rotating parts

Just waiting on results now then. :)

So it seems! Turbo needs bolted on, oil and filter change, injectors the night before remap along with a few other checks, but yeah just waiting now!