353 346
Nice to see you have a good result. :)
Its interesting how the torque to boost arrives and that seems in early and building strongly. What was the Air temperature when you did this run ? what fuel was in the tank ? regards Ralph |
Originally Posted by Andaru
(Post 11722473)
Is that at the wheels or crankshaft? I was expecting to see into the 400's with all that custom work!
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Originally Posted by Linksfahrer
(Post 11722501)
Nice to see you have a good result. :)
Its interesting how the torque to boost arrives and that seems in early and building strongly. What was the Air temperature when you did this run ? what fuel was in the tank ? regards Ralph Was about 20 degrees ambient temp, quite hot for Scotland! Fuel was V power. I mentioned to Andy that I had 90 litres of methanol in the shed, he said I would be ok tossing upto 5% in the tank with this tune, so that's what I'll start doing on my weekly fill. |
Good results, I bet your pleased and more importantly it's drive able,
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Originally Posted by mikeblackett
(Post 11722546)
Good results, I bet your pleased and more importantly it's drive able,
Although it does feel strong in fourth when the boost ramps up! |
Nice results. Was that on the road or rollers? Doesn't seem much difference over a normal 16G? Torque looks great for a 2.0 though.
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Originally Posted by ScottyPPP
(Post 11723042)
Nice results. Was that on the road or rollers? Doesn't seem much difference over a normal 16G? Torque looks great for a 2.0 though.
Code cleared (was cam sensor fault) not came back on. I'm happy with the torque and power it makes, gives a good shove at 3400 as the boost comes in (circa 1.6 bar) then pulls well all the way to 7k. |
Originally Posted by boosted
(Post 11723100)
Scottish bhp on the road. It was set to make more power but the pull was aborted at 5800, cel came up apparently.
Code cleared (was cam sensor fault) not came back on. I'm happy with the torque and power it makes, gives a good shove at 3400 as the boost comes in (circa 1.6 bar) then pulls well all the way to 7k. |
wouldn't be worried about an odd cam sensor fault, quite common for it to go off at higher RPM's. Could be the crank sensor though - if the two all out of sync you'll get the cel, you can try swapping them round if it comes back.
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Originally Posted by bludgod
(Post 11723140)
wouldn't be worried about an odd cam sensor fault, quite common for it to go off at higher RPM's. Could be the crank sensor though - if the two all out of sync you'll get the cel, you can try swapping them round if it comes back.
Tossed 5% methanol in today upon filling it. My 11.3:1 AFR is now up at 11.7 ish. Can't say it feels any quicker, but who would know. |
1 Attachment(s)
Was at the dragstrip yesterday managed a 13.18 @ 103mph with a 1.85 60ft. I just don't think there is a 12.99 in the car, it needs more power to push it over the edge. This was done with a full weight car, spare wheel and jack in the boot the lot. I dare say it would be quicker if I start pulling bits off it, but then that's not the car I drive on the road is it? Also I wanted a direct back to back comparison to my last run without the remap.
I am however Lookjng to change my wheels from 18" to std wrx 17" I feel the weight saving may have some benefit? Anyway here is the times for the day, I've yet to weigh my car. Attachment 42368 |
im not sure that just adding meth to the tank will do much on it's own unless the map was adjusted for it. The perks are generally you can run higher timing once you adjust the fuel target back to where it should be (set the fuel target richer in the map or increase the fuel pressure if you have an FPR) so you get more output. It would only really boost you on it's own if your map is already trying to get more timing than you can run.
Might be worth checking with/without the meth even a few virtual dyno runs or logging runs (look for fine learning knock correction and feedback knock correction and/or ignition total timing) just to make sure that adding it in is worthwhile. |
sure its not a case of you can't drive for sh1t? lol
sorry couldn't resist. any other comparable cars as a target time? |
Originally Posted by Tidgy
(Post 11742552)
sure its not a case of you can't drive for sh1t? lol
sorry couldn't resist. any other comparable cars as a target time? |
Originally Posted by bludgod
(Post 11742548)
im not sure that just adding meth to the tank will do much on it's own unless the map was adjusted for it. The perks are generally you can run higher timing once you adjust the fuel target back to where it should be (set the fuel target richer in the map or increase the fuel pressure if you have an FPR) so you get more output. It would only really boost you on it's own if your map is already trying to get more timing than you can run.
Might be worth checking with/without the meth even a few virtual dyno runs or logging runs (look for fine learning knock correction and feedback knock correction and/or ignition total timing) just to make sure that adding it in is worthwhile. Car feel livleyer with a whiff of methanol in there. We aren't speaking massive amounts |
Need some tips from RS Matt ;)
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Originally Posted by ScottyPPP
(Post 11742849)
Need some tips from RS Matt ;)
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Boosted,
Great thread! Some advice for you...... When I was running similar power to you, albeit in a SPEC C, I was seeing low 12's. Weight saving aside, you really need to work on your 60ft times imo. It's all about the traction off the line. 1.85s to 60ft is not all that great imo. I was consistently hitting 1.6s in my SPEC C, but you need good tyres, square chassis setup and monitored tyre pressures. IF you shaved (let's say) .25s off your 60ft, all things being equal, you could see your ET drop to 12.68. IMO this is where you should be, if your car has the power the road dyno figures are suggesting. Good luck! :) |
Originally Posted by Shaun
(Post 11742890)
Boosted,
Great thread! Some advice for you...... When I was running similar power to you, albeit in a SPEC C, I was seeing low 12's. Weight saving aside, you really need to work on your 60ft times imo. It's all about the traction off the line. 1.85s to 60ft is not all that great imo. I was consistently hitting 1.6s in my SPEC C, but you need good tyres, square chassis setup and monitored tyre pressures. IF you shaved (let's say) .25s off your 60ft, all things being equal, you could see your ET drop to 12.68. IMO this is where you should be, if your car has the power the road dyno figures are suggesting. Good luck! :) |
Originally Posted by Ciaran
(Post 11709582)
Having had several imprezas at various stages 240, 280, 330, 400, 420 and 500+
I have to say 330 was the perfect amount of power. Useable and most importantly reliable. My 0-60 foot was the quickest of the day when I last took Billy to the drag strip, that included a 700bhp+ Imp. Even at 330/307 I got a little bit of wheel spin and the car snaked a tad. On the road I rarely keep it flawed past the speed limit, way too scary. Impreza for me is just about being planted in the seats in 1st and 2nd. Fast Cornering and top speed are a big no no. |
7 Attachment(s)
Wee bit of an update, second baby girl was born last week, so been busy with that.
Bought some std WRX wheels that are a lot lighter than my 18" ones, gave them a tart up. Going to put some uniroyal rainsport 3's on them at end of month. Attachment 41620 Also pulled te gearbox and changed the clutch to the later 4.2 RS4 one I've had for ages, along with the new flywheel I made to suit. I've yet to road test the car (today hopefully). Attachment 41621 Attachment 41622 Attachment 41623 Attachment 41624 Attachment 41625 Also bought a billet compressor wheel for my turbo in a hope of making it I bit more effecient and possibly flow a smudge more air (my one is worn and seen better days). Scotty's fault! Attachment 41626 |
Nice work. Need to sort my wheels out as they're looking a bit ****ty.
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Originally Posted by boosted
(Post 11749053)
Wee bit of an update, second baby girl was born last week, so been busy with that.
Bought some std WRX wheels that are a lot lighter than my 18" ones, gave them a tart up. Going to put some uniroyal rainsport 3's on them at end of month. http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...psemia64ry.jpg Also pulled te gearbox and changed the clutch to the later 4.2 RS4 one I've had for ages, along with the new flywheel I made to suit. I've yet to road test the car (today hopefully). http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...pstejbqvjb.jpg http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...psaglvyoyp.jpg Apart from the Std Enkei you have, Im guessing the Speedline ones are good too. As I prefer twisty bits to straights , Im looking for a good set of light 17's 5 x100's as I think the steering handling benifits from it , the gyroscopic effect is reduced with weight reduction and the unsprung weight reduction helps the suspension iron out the bumps. Congrats on the new born , so now you have a real reason to be up late at night , Get yourself a baby phone and you can kid your wife that you have no problem getting from the garage to the cot before she wakes up :thumb: |
Originally Posted by Linksfahrer
(Post 11749330)
The point about the rolling mass is massive , on the flywheel and for every kilo saved on the wheels is worth 3 from the car. Id like to see which of the 17 inch ones are lightest (anyone have a table of weights ?)
Apart from the Std Enkei you have, Im guessing the Speedline ones are good too. As I prefer twisty bits to straights , Im looking for a good set of light 17's 5 x100's as I think the steering handling benifits from it , the gyroscopic effect is reduced with weight reduction and the unsprung weight reduction helps the suspension iron out the bumps. Congrats on the new born , so now you have a real reason to be up late at night , Get yourself a baby phone and you can kid your wife that you have no problem getting from the garage to the cot before she wakes up :thumb: RS4 clutch is ace, What a joy to drive normally! I read that 2kg on each wheel (18" to 17") is worth .1 on the 1/4 mile |
Anyone interested in a flywheel and clutch solution for the audi box? I would sell my first flywheel with paddle clutch and cover, speedo drive ring, flywheel bolts etc, £100 plus postage? I also have an adaptor plate that has some holes drilled in the wrong place, could be plugged up and re drilled, I'll throw that in too.
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Originally Posted by boosted
(Post 11749362)
. . . ✂️ . . .
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4 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by joz8968
(Post 11750887)
:lol1:
So I've bought my Christmas! Here it is, billet extended tip exta tall big 16g compressor wheel. The aim is to fit this and water/meth injection early next year and get a map tweake. Hoping for a bit more power and no loss in spool. Be nice to crack the 12's! Also have some bits (flywheel, clutch etc) up for sale in the for sale section, at bargain price (£100!). Attachment 41286 Attachment 41287 Attachment 41288 Parts for sale (see for sale section) Attachment 41289 |
Shiny goodness :D
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Originally Posted by ScottyPPP
(Post 11752538)
Shiny goodness :D
Certainly the blade profile, height of the inducer and extended tip should do something in terms of flow and spool, quite what they will do I don't know! |
Fitted this yet? :p
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