When I get around to doing it I can, but the washer is a simple case of replacing the standard pump with a twin-outlet one and plumbing in the washers - about £15-20 with some hose.

The leveler needs a nissan switch and new wiring loom that I'm currently working on a design for:thumb:

so are my hid's are a mot fail ? they are in projectors not that i'm worried it will pass it's mot no matter what :)

John, it's the levellers I'd be very intersted in. Mine has electrical adjusters and washing already.

Sonic, the short answer is that you should be OK.

I'm only looking at the manual levelers at the moment which requires a new loom when you swap UK WRX lights for STI lights as the loom and connections are different for some reason:wonder:

The self-levelers might be a little project for next year if I can get hold of some sensors, work out how to fit/calibrate them and design a wiring loom:eek:

Hi Jon have look on this

http://www.scoobymods.com/jdm-sti-hid-6-pin-t2416.html



Jura

:thumb:

I have the subaru wiring diagrams, and was just thinking about a complete loom from the dash to both lights, but looking at this it seems possible to exploit the 4-pin loom:norty:

Hi guys: mine's for a classic, remember?

Classic electrical levelling has SIX wires, which seems and awful lot for a device that does up/down.

Especially when I KNOW for certain that the wiring for folding mirrors open/close has only THREE wires:eek:

Usual squabbles aside (inc the usual 'must have self levelling' rubbish and the knowledeable DfT page quoting); the kits from HIDS4U use a shielded bulb, designed to cut out the glare by blocking light from anywhere other than where itd be in an incandescent bulb. Theyre a little dearer, but far better.

Projection lamps are better, of course, but theyll still benefit from a shielded bulb too.

Can't agree mate.

Firstly, the problem with the HID-in-a-H4-frormat bulbs is that the HID "bulb" isn't a bulb at all, it's a discharge lamp. (Google it for an explanation, but basically a capsule containing Xenon is made to give out light). It has NO filament, and ONE discharge, whereas the H4 bulb has TWO filaments in close proximity....look inside one to see how close they are.

Now BOTH of those filaments HAVE to be correct to fractions of a millimeter, both in size and position. THEN the light works well.........providing that the lens/reflector unit is good. That was the bit Subaru got wrong:(

To go back to the bulbs: the HID discharge, arc, spark, call it what you will, CANNOT yet be engineered so that there is a choice of TWO in close proximity like the H4 format needs.
They therefore either move the bulbs around, or shield parts of it.:(

But the shielding is at best a bodge: if the light source was in the right place it would work without shielding. And since the light source needs to be in TWO places, with TWO DIFFERENT lots of shielding, how, exactly, do they do that? Answer, they don't.
Plus the FILAMENT gives off a more concentrated source of light than a discharge lamp, so refelctor/lens design is TOTALLY different for the two.

And lastly, it's a bit daft to put in a more powerful light source, then have to cut off quite a bit of it's light because it's either in the wrong place, or badly made, or both.:nono:

As regards the projector lights benefitting from a shielded bulb, I think you ought to go over to www.theretrofitsource.com, and do some reading.
Shielding an HID burner in a proper projector setup would be detrimental to the whole light. There would be no need and it would simply cut out light that could be used.
They DO use a movable "shield" to produce dip/main beam, but that's not quite the same thing. It simply puts a block on light that fills the distance.
Yes, it cuts down on light on the road, but the rest is so focussed it hardly matters. The ultimate would be to have TWO HID projectors, one for main beam, one for dip, and have both on at the same time for main beam...but few can afford, or have the space for that.

I really do recommend that website if you want to learn about lighting, whether halogen, HID or retrofit. A mine of knowledge.

Alcazar,
Iv seen projector/angel eye style lamps claiming to be MOT approved on EBAY. Are these any good? I need better lamps on my 96 classic STI. Thanks.

I really can't comment, not having had anything to do with them.

I would doubt that any are properly e-marked.
Those that aren't will obviously be a problem, IF your MoT tester is eagle eyed. I've watched many an MoT test, and they test beam height and pattern, plus check if it's working.

I would suggest that if you want better lights, do what I did, or what Darms did, or use better bulbs in yours plus some driving lights.

It might be of interest to know that before I had my HID driving lights I fitted some TINY oval driving lights, made iirc, by Ring. I had to cut away a couple of the outer cross pieces inside the lower grille to accomodate their "tails".

They were a bit like these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pair-Oval-...95759405895229 In fact I maye still have a brand new apir somewhere here if anyone's interested?

I sank these in to the upper part of the lower grille, (the bit that faces downwards):
http://www.screwfix.com/p/hollow-wal...ck-of-10/12229

And bolted the lights to those, making the light bolt holes slightly oval to allow for side to side adjustment. Better than self tappers.

They were wired into main beam and were quite good until I got he HIDs. Not too obvious, quite stealth.

They used 55W bulbs, but I could have gone either 100W or even 130W. I never bothered.

For about £30 and some time, well worth it, plus when you remove them, those fittings are all but invisible in the bumper;)

Thanks Alcazar,
I think I will try to copy your HIDs, seems like the best solution.

I think I can answer that.

I belive the headlamp adjuster motors have position switches built in which set the position according to where you set the adjuster control. So setting '1' puts a live and earth to two of the six wires. The motor moves in the relevent direction until the correct position switches are moved which then stops it.

Why they've done it like that instead of using electronics instead is beyond me :cuckoo:
Think there is a wiring diagram in the workshop manuals showing this.

Yes, that makes sense Ali, I'd completely forgotten that switch.

Yep, this is definitely how the classic scoob headlamp adjuster switch works. I had a spare one lying around, took it apart, and it's a straightforward four position rotary contact job, not a pot or anything like that.

As for getting the adjuster motors to work automatically somehow, it should be a relatively simple job to bracket one of these up to the top of each rear trailing arm BMW E39 Touring 523i 1999 Suspenison Level Sensor Passenger. I've seen a few on the 'bay, and that's a pretty typical price for them. From there it would be a case of mating up the beemer sensor's electronics to the scoob's wiring, measuring and setting it all up so you get the right amount of dip for the right amount of suspension travel, and Bob's your uncle.

I've already sourced one of those sensors for myself along with the relevant beemer wiring diagrams, but haven't had time yet to to play around with it very seriously.

I assume you'd want only one, then, and wire it into the Scoobs pair of motors?

I have a spare working pair here.

Keep us informed if you get it to work, thanks.

I think the best way to go really would be to have a separate sensor each side, and wire them up so each motor dips independently. It might mean a bit more work with hacking the loom and so on, but the end result would be worth it.

If and when I make any progress I'll post a thread up.

Back already, basics of my research now complete.

Starting with the sensor, this takes a 5v input feed, and produces an output voltage in a range from 0.6v to just over 4v, with the swing-arm moving from fully closed to fully open.

To use that sensor output to control the scoob 4-position switch/motor setup, we'd want something like the '4 Level - voltage Detector' circuit around 3/4 of the page down on this site here - "Voltage Comparators". This uses very cheap and easily obtainable components, and can easily be tested and adjusted off the car.

That should leave most of the hurdles for the project in its practical execution, rather than the design, which is a pretty good start. I'll update with my own progress as and when I have time, but if anyone has suggestions on the circuit etc feel free to jump in :thumb:

this HID business really confuses me (dont know about anyone else) I have been reading the threads and still dont know if they are legal/mot friendly

Yet to be tested in court, but I'd steer clear of aftermarket kits ie: bulb and ballst in your own reflector, especially in H4, for the foreseeable future.
Or at least until the new test regs are being applied and we can see what will happen.

The situation as iot stands is:

The DfT position is that they think that aftermarket kits will be illegal. This has yet to be tested in court, but I'd hate to be the one who had to take on a government department:(

Like higher wattage bulbs, they will probably continue to be used even once they are definitely illegal. It WILL happen, because the government wants it to. But unfortunately, they are FAR easier to spot than a higher wattage bulb, so will be easier to enforce any law.

Some will continue to get through MoT, even when illegal, due to lax or obliging MoT stations.

Your car, your choice.

thanks thats all I need to know, I think I'll save for some JDM STi Bugeye headlights

I would if you have early ones with the H4 bulbs in.

TBH, you have to be lucky to find ANY car with lights using H4's that it's headlights are brilliant;)