Aquamist 1S water injection system
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
For Sale, Aquamist 1S system.
Full system as new, with water bottle float switch. I will also include the vibration proof mounts and mount braket i made to give you a very neat/quiet instalation on the NS chassis rail, plus some extra T Pieces to run 2 jets, 90 degree take off push in phneumatic fitting for the water bottle plus anything else i used during instalation. £250 ono
Full system as new, with water bottle float switch. I will also include the vibration proof mounts and mount braket i made to give you a very neat/quiet instalation on the NS chassis rail, plus some extra T Pieces to run 2 jets, 90 degree take off push in phneumatic fitting for the water bottle plus anything else i used during instalation. £250 ono
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#8
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
I did fit it Graham, but i have only used it once. I was using Water Injection to help control charge temperature and i find that the Intercooler is eficient enough to keep charge temps under control without the use of WI. You should only use WI above 42 degrees C charge temp, below that you lose power unless you specifically map with WI as a requirement to allow you to run more ignition advance, and i personally dont like that idea on a road car, its just another thing to go wrong.
I never get to see 42 degrees plus charge temp apart from when i have sat there idling for ages in standing trafic, it only takes 30 seconds once moving to drop below this, so i just take it easy under those conditions. I have a charge temp display on my dash.
I never get to see 42 degrees plus charge temp apart from when i have sat there idling for ages in standing trafic, it only takes 30 seconds once moving to drop below this, so i just take it easy under those conditions. I have a charge temp display on my dash.
#9
Excellent! During a wait for a hill climb run you tick over and over etc for ages. The TMIC soaks it all up and is about 50/60 deg C when I leave the line at full chat. A climb is over in about 50 seconds, and is full of violent braking and accelleration at relativly low road speeds, fastest is about 80 mph for 5 seconds. The TMIC never cools. I've tried iced water in the IC spray (which is 'on' all the time during a run).
I need to cool the inlet air quickly, hence the interest in water injection. Not bothered to use WI on the road, car is fast enough as it is!
Plan is to switch the WI to 'enabled' at the wait for the start line and have it triggered by the boost pressure as the TMIC is always too hot. Is this a good way to go?
Graham.
I need to cool the inlet air quickly, hence the interest in water injection. Not bothered to use WI on the road, car is fast enough as it is!
Plan is to switch the WI to 'enabled' at the wait for the start line and have it triggered by the boost pressure as the TMIC is always too hot. Is this a good way to go?
Graham.
#10
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
In those conditions its a good system to use. WRC cars use WI for similar reasons, they have control systems that switch the water on at 42 degrees and switch it off at 38 degrees so they dont lose power. Trigger it at 0.8BAR boost as a good starting threshold
A way to help drop charge temps whilst you are queing up for a hillclimb is to sit there with the trottle buterfly open slighly, say at 2000rpm. That increses the airflow through the intercooler and lowers the charge temp. I can make mine go from 70 degrees C to 40 degrees C just by doing this.
A way to help drop charge temps whilst you are queing up for a hillclimb is to sit there with the trottle buterfly open slighly, say at 2000rpm. That increses the airflow through the intercooler and lowers the charge temp. I can make mine go from 70 degrees C to 40 degrees C just by doing this.
#11
Really? Thats worth it! I used to keep the bonnet open and pre cool the TMIC with iced water from a sponge...others use plumbers freeze spray!
Used to amuse the spectators to see the apparent 'washing' of the TMIC before the off!
I will try that next season.
Are you saying that 0.8 bar will give the equivelent to 38 deg C?
My Sti runs a steady 1.31 bar via a Blitz boost controller at full chat, the TMIC is about 60 deg C at the top of the hill with the spray on full all the way up (about 50 seconds).You can't bear to touch it!
Plan is to water spray and water inject.....
Incidentally, I fitted a huge TMIC to try to better things, but found it weighed 2 x the original STi unit, twice the mass of aluminium to cool in the same time.
Thanks for the info.
Graham.
Used to amuse the spectators to see the apparent 'washing' of the TMIC before the off!
I will try that next season.
Are you saying that 0.8 bar will give the equivelent to 38 deg C?
My Sti runs a steady 1.31 bar via a Blitz boost controller at full chat, the TMIC is about 60 deg C at the top of the hill with the spray on full all the way up (about 50 seconds).You can't bear to touch it!
Plan is to water spray and water inject.....
Incidentally, I fitted a huge TMIC to try to better things, but found it weighed 2 x the original STi unit, twice the mass of aluminium to cool in the same time.
Thanks for the info.
Graham.
#12
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
no, 0.8BAR just means 0.8BAR, dont inject any water below that as you wont get any benefit, in fact you may make things worse. You have to handle WI and IC sprays with diferent control strategies, they do dompletely diferent jobs.
What i am saying is, if you trigger WI below 42 degrees C, you lose power. Ideally what you should have is a trigger system that switches WI on based on boost and charge temperature. I can put you in touch with someone who can sell you a charge temp gauge you can use to do the temperature control, its not that expensive. You can then link that into a boost presure switch and use both in series to trigger the WI pump.
What i am saying is, if you trigger WI below 42 degrees C, you lose power. Ideally what you should have is a trigger system that switches WI on based on boost and charge temperature. I can put you in touch with someone who can sell you a charge temp gauge you can use to do the temperature control, its not that expensive. You can then link that into a boost presure switch and use both in series to trigger the WI pump.
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