VOS Chip for sale
04 May 2005, 12:15 PM
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VOS Chip for sale
VOS chip for sale in next few weeks.
I have a 1995 WRX with FPR, Walbro 255lt Fuel Pump, Apexi fully decatted System, HKS Induction Kit, HKS Front Mounted Intercooler and the car ran brilliantly with this mod, spooled up a lot quicker than did before and found it very responsive.
Offers?
Suitable for 93-96 TD04/TD05 cars (Jap WRX saloons/wagons, all pre-97 UK cars)
You can install switch to turn it on and off.
What it does:
1) maps car for UK fuel,
2) removes speed limiter
3) maps car to hold 16psi boost
4) raises fuel cut to 18psi.
5) Should give you about 280-300 BHP.
Problems:
1) CEL illuminates so need to ignore, remove bulb, or install switch for this light. (It lights due to incorrect config for injectors (was created for legacy) but runs perfectly anyway).
2) May overboost slightly in higher gears if you have a full decat (to about 18psi).
3) I recomend you fit a manual boost controller with the chip to accuratly set the boost level.
4) I would recomend that this chip be used with a knocklink.
Quote from Adrian Vos:
Start qoute
The chip consists of a daughter board which is designed to emulate a EPROM that is nolonger available. I use two commonly available 8-bit EPROMs to emulate the 16 bit latched 27C1028. The daughterboard is only required for this purpose, and though it adds alot of cost, it has nothing to do with how well the chip works, or how well your car goes. It is the info on the EPROMs that is important for the performance of the engine.
The chip is easily fitted in about 30 minutes or less to a 16-bit ECUs fitted to MY91-MY96 EJ20T single turbo engines. All ECUs fitted to these cars are compatible with the chip. The chip actually replaces the standard software in the ECU (firmware) with the data I put on my chip. The data I put on my chip is customised to suit the liberty/legacy RS. Mechanically, there is little difference between the MY89-90 series 1 fitted with the 8-bit ECU, and the MY91-96 fitted with the 16-bit ECU. Therefore, if you have a series 1, and can obtain a 16-bit ECU from any model that came with it, and fit it with my chip to your car, it will run identically to a series 2 car with my chip. If you are searching for a 16-bit ECU, the following models should be fitted with it, and may be obtainable from wreckers or elsewhere:
* MY91-94 Liberty/Legacy EJ20T single turbo
* MY93-96 WRX (including STi/RA models), but the box is different as it is fitted to the passenger floor, so you need to make box mods, but it will plug in and work fine.
I have two versions of chip available. The fuel and ignition tunes for each are basically the same, but the boost control solenoid mapping are altered so that one version suits the 6psi wastegate of the RS with VF8,VF10,VF12 turbos. THe other version suits a 9psi wastegate, and is compattible with TD04,TD05, and sti roller bearing VF series turbos. I cannot gaurantee accurate boost control with all turbos, but I definately recommend you get this chip version if you have a 9psi wastegate, as there is a godd chance it will run the correct boost level. Please specify turbo or wastegate setting when ordering a chip from me.
Also, note that my chip will run well on WRX models with the correct ECU. As far as I know, the injectors are identical on all WRX models MY93-96, and the same AFRs will result. Some WRX version run high compression, and I recommend that the chip not be used on these engines for safety. Note however that because the WRX does not require control for a intercooler water pump, an engine check results. I recommend a switch be installed in this wire to get rid of this if it is a problem. There is no negative result in engine running.
The chip has the following attributes of its control:
* Fuelling is altered to run a far better mixture for performance. At full boost (above about 10psi), it runs an AFR of 11.5:1. If you talk to experienced tuners, you will realise that this AFR gives excellent performance whilst maintaining good engine safety. Note that the tuning is for 95 RON or greater (standard Australian premium). The knock sensor will give better performance on 98 RON fuels, but I prefer not to limit the chip to 98RON until it is more commonly available everywhere.
* Ignition is altered to max performance for the above specified fuel. The standard ECU is reasonably good in ignition advance at high boost, but far from satisfactory as boost comes on. With my maps, there is a noticable improvement in throttle response and off boost/low boost response due to the fuel and ignition maps. Note that if you are running high boost with the standard ECU, you may only get a marginal increase in top end power with my chip, as the standard ECU will lean-out at the limit of injector duty (too similar mictures to my chip or leaner!! ), and the timing is pretty good, so my chip may only pick up a few kW on a dyno, but will still dramatically fill-out the midrange and bottom end, and dramatic improvement in throttle response.
* Boost control is modified to bring boost on as quick as possible with minimal wastegate creep, and to a new level of approx 16psi. The standard ECU purposely limits boost at lower rpm, so you will get a bigger hit in the back as boost comes on. 16psi is chosen as a limit that is reliable, and does not lean-out due to running out of injector duty, and the poor flow of the standard fuel pump. If you run a better pump, you should be able to go ot about 17-18psi, but do so at your own risk.
* Boost cut limit is moved up to 18.5psi. This is where you run out of injector futy even with a good fuel pump, and I recommend you do not go over this. At your own risk, you can fit a fuel cut defender to go over this if you are aware of the risk of engine failure in doing so.
* My chip has no speed cut, for those who have a 180k speed limitter in their ECU.
* The chip is more aggressive in its use of open loop operation. This adds to the repsonisve feel of the chip as opposed to a stock ECU.
* All standard ECU features are retained... knock sensor, select monitor support etc. As far as anyone is concerned, they would not know it is there except for the performance it gains.
That is basically the features of the chip. The chip itself is very reliable, and I have not had a chip failure before, but there is a few issues that can be brought on by the chip:
* An engine cut on boost, but not above 18.5psi, and is normally acoompanied by the tacho momentarily reading 0 is generally an ignition coil problem on the engine. Although coils ran fine before the chip, the extra boost of the chip may make this problem come out. The cures are well documented on this forum, and the best cure is to replace coils with Bosch HEC715/16 coils. As stated, this is not caused by the chip, and would happen if you increased the perofrmance to similar levels using other methods. Somtimes a coil can also fail premanently causing the engine to run on less than 4 cylinders, which result in poor engine running, and if persisted, can cause fouled spark plugs and catalytic converter damage.
* Some exhausts (particularly twin dump or splitter with poor splitter design) can cause the boost control to run higher boost in higher gears. This is because the wastegate flow is restricted. If this happens I recommend the fitment of some other method of boost control that is either closed loop or use adjustable to tune the boost accordingly.
* Valve lifter noise is common on original RS engines. Sometimes in bad cases, the ECU will deterct this is pinging. In minor cases, the ECU only retard ignition, but in bad cases, the ECU will limit boost to minimum level. I twill return after a few minutes, but the only fix is to stop the ECU detecting pinging by either desensitising the knock sensor, or fixing the lifter noise by some method which is also well documented on the forum.
End quote
I have a 1995 WRX with FPR, Walbro 255lt Fuel Pump, Apexi fully decatted System, HKS Induction Kit, HKS Front Mounted Intercooler and the car ran brilliantly with this mod, spooled up a lot quicker than did before and found it very responsive.
Offers?
Suitable for 93-96 TD04/TD05 cars (Jap WRX saloons/wagons, all pre-97 UK cars)
You can install switch to turn it on and off.
What it does:
1) maps car for UK fuel,
2) removes speed limiter
3) maps car to hold 16psi boost
4) raises fuel cut to 18psi.
5) Should give you about 280-300 BHP.
Problems:
1) CEL illuminates so need to ignore, remove bulb, or install switch for this light. (It lights due to incorrect config for injectors (was created for legacy) but runs perfectly anyway).
2) May overboost slightly in higher gears if you have a full decat (to about 18psi).
3) I recomend you fit a manual boost controller with the chip to accuratly set the boost level.
4) I would recomend that this chip be used with a knocklink.
Quote from Adrian Vos:
Start qoute
The chip consists of a daughter board which is designed to emulate a EPROM that is nolonger available. I use two commonly available 8-bit EPROMs to emulate the 16 bit latched 27C1028. The daughterboard is only required for this purpose, and though it adds alot of cost, it has nothing to do with how well the chip works, or how well your car goes. It is the info on the EPROMs that is important for the performance of the engine.
The chip is easily fitted in about 30 minutes or less to a 16-bit ECUs fitted to MY91-MY96 EJ20T single turbo engines. All ECUs fitted to these cars are compatible with the chip. The chip actually replaces the standard software in the ECU (firmware) with the data I put on my chip. The data I put on my chip is customised to suit the liberty/legacy RS. Mechanically, there is little difference between the MY89-90 series 1 fitted with the 8-bit ECU, and the MY91-96 fitted with the 16-bit ECU. Therefore, if you have a series 1, and can obtain a 16-bit ECU from any model that came with it, and fit it with my chip to your car, it will run identically to a series 2 car with my chip. If you are searching for a 16-bit ECU, the following models should be fitted with it, and may be obtainable from wreckers or elsewhere:
* MY91-94 Liberty/Legacy EJ20T single turbo
* MY93-96 WRX (including STi/RA models), but the box is different as it is fitted to the passenger floor, so you need to make box mods, but it will plug in and work fine.
I have two versions of chip available. The fuel and ignition tunes for each are basically the same, but the boost control solenoid mapping are altered so that one version suits the 6psi wastegate of the RS with VF8,VF10,VF12 turbos. THe other version suits a 9psi wastegate, and is compattible with TD04,TD05, and sti roller bearing VF series turbos. I cannot gaurantee accurate boost control with all turbos, but I definately recommend you get this chip version if you have a 9psi wastegate, as there is a godd chance it will run the correct boost level. Please specify turbo or wastegate setting when ordering a chip from me.
Also, note that my chip will run well on WRX models with the correct ECU. As far as I know, the injectors are identical on all WRX models MY93-96, and the same AFRs will result. Some WRX version run high compression, and I recommend that the chip not be used on these engines for safety. Note however that because the WRX does not require control for a intercooler water pump, an engine check results. I recommend a switch be installed in this wire to get rid of this if it is a problem. There is no negative result in engine running.
The chip has the following attributes of its control:
* Fuelling is altered to run a far better mixture for performance. At full boost (above about 10psi), it runs an AFR of 11.5:1. If you talk to experienced tuners, you will realise that this AFR gives excellent performance whilst maintaining good engine safety. Note that the tuning is for 95 RON or greater (standard Australian premium). The knock sensor will give better performance on 98 RON fuels, but I prefer not to limit the chip to 98RON until it is more commonly available everywhere.
* Ignition is altered to max performance for the above specified fuel. The standard ECU is reasonably good in ignition advance at high boost, but far from satisfactory as boost comes on. With my maps, there is a noticable improvement in throttle response and off boost/low boost response due to the fuel and ignition maps. Note that if you are running high boost with the standard ECU, you may only get a marginal increase in top end power with my chip, as the standard ECU will lean-out at the limit of injector duty (too similar mictures to my chip or leaner!! ), and the timing is pretty good, so my chip may only pick up a few kW on a dyno, but will still dramatically fill-out the midrange and bottom end, and dramatic improvement in throttle response.
* Boost control is modified to bring boost on as quick as possible with minimal wastegate creep, and to a new level of approx 16psi. The standard ECU purposely limits boost at lower rpm, so you will get a bigger hit in the back as boost comes on. 16psi is chosen as a limit that is reliable, and does not lean-out due to running out of injector duty, and the poor flow of the standard fuel pump. If you run a better pump, you should be able to go ot about 17-18psi, but do so at your own risk.
* Boost cut limit is moved up to 18.5psi. This is where you run out of injector futy even with a good fuel pump, and I recommend you do not go over this. At your own risk, you can fit a fuel cut defender to go over this if you are aware of the risk of engine failure in doing so.
* My chip has no speed cut, for those who have a 180k speed limitter in their ECU.
* The chip is more aggressive in its use of open loop operation. This adds to the repsonisve feel of the chip as opposed to a stock ECU.
* All standard ECU features are retained... knock sensor, select monitor support etc. As far as anyone is concerned, they would not know it is there except for the performance it gains.
That is basically the features of the chip. The chip itself is very reliable, and I have not had a chip failure before, but there is a few issues that can be brought on by the chip:
* An engine cut on boost, but not above 18.5psi, and is normally acoompanied by the tacho momentarily reading 0 is generally an ignition coil problem on the engine. Although coils ran fine before the chip, the extra boost of the chip may make this problem come out. The cures are well documented on this forum, and the best cure is to replace coils with Bosch HEC715/16 coils. As stated, this is not caused by the chip, and would happen if you increased the perofrmance to similar levels using other methods. Somtimes a coil can also fail premanently causing the engine to run on less than 4 cylinders, which result in poor engine running, and if persisted, can cause fouled spark plugs and catalytic converter damage.
* Some exhausts (particularly twin dump or splitter with poor splitter design) can cause the boost control to run higher boost in higher gears. This is because the wastegate flow is restricted. If this happens I recommend the fitment of some other method of boost control that is either closed loop or use adjustable to tune the boost accordingly.
* Valve lifter noise is common on original RS engines. Sometimes in bad cases, the ECU will deterct this is pinging. In minor cases, the ECU only retard ignition, but in bad cases, the ECU will limit boost to minimum level. I twill return after a few minutes, but the only fix is to stop the ECU detecting pinging by either desensitising the knock sensor, or fixing the lifter noise by some method which is also well documented on the forum.
End quote
06 May 2005, 01:50 PM
#6
Post it on here http://legacy.manxforums.com/forums/
Quite a few people are after that chip after having TD05s fitted to their legacys like I did
Quite a few people are after that chip after having TD05s fitted to their legacys like I did
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