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Remapping - what & how does it work?

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Old 19 June 2014 | 02:01 PM
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Old 19 June 2014 | 02:08 PM
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You need a Rover 75 my friend.
Old 19 June 2014 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by MattyB1983
You need a Rover 75 my friend.

Old 19 June 2014 | 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by MattyB1983
You need a Rover 75 my friend.


If you do get the 1.8 turbo, 159bhp but can be tuned to 200bhp very quiet
Old 19 June 2014 | 02:38 PM
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Fink you need some double glazin mate, get rid of those old rattly windows
or sell it to me grandpa so I can make it into a propa motor and wake up all the snotty neihgbors round my way

Mikey
Old 19 June 2014 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Xline
Background ...

I have an '03 STI that's completely standard bar a backbox which seems to be pretty much straight through.

First ... I am putting the original backbox back on because I don't like the noise. It gets right on my **** after any more than 10 minutes, and pulling up to the house in the evenings making windows rattle and setting off car alarms is just plain obnoxious. I do try to coast in, but even then you really can't miss it.

Second, I am not remotely interested in upgrading/modify the exhaust system because I want it as quiet as possible, and I am not entertaining decatting/down pipes and all that crap because I want it to go through an MOT without messing about or having to backhand people.

Third, I am not going to change or upgrade anything else. I am keeping it stock.

What will remapping do for me (if anything?) Given the stock 265 (it was 263 on a RR years ago), is it likely to gain anything at all in standard form or am I completely wasting my time and should totally forget it ?
OK, be handy if you knew what downpipe it has.

What you should do IMO is get a prodrive PPP centre & backbox, and depending on what downpipe it has, dare I say the PPP sports cat (or equivalent)
Then get it remapped.
You'd be looking at figures of 315 - 325bhp, and similar torque.
It'll also be much quieter, and generally a much nicer place to be.
Old 19 June 2014 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Xline
I guess I'll have to wait for the grown-ups to respond then ... or is this forum entirely populated by chavs these days?
Its just you'd bought a road version of a rally car but sound like you want a nice quiet perrformance car, Audi? Just sounds funny

As regards your question, i'm sure you can increase the power without any silly mods, why not just upgrade to sports cat, fuel pump and filter plus remap
Old 19 June 2014 | 02:54 PM
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You may need a decent pannel filter and higher than standard RON fuel, but you should get a bit more out of it. Speak to a subaru mapper - there are plent mentioned on here.

Consider the prodive performance pack - you'll keep you cat then.
Old 19 June 2014 | 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by jaygsi
Its just you'd bought a road version of a rally car
Not even close to being a rally car
Old 19 June 2014 | 03:07 PM
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I hear what you are saying. Apart from the exhaust system, my WRX is standard and that is how it will stay.

It is my every day car after all.

I remap would be a good idea if you after more power/torque without having to shout about it. It's just that you would get more out of the remap with a decent exhaust system. I reckon, very roughly, a decent exhaust with a remap will make a good 20-25bhp more than having a remap with the standard system fitted.

There are quiet systems out there.
(I actually find my Prodrive back box too loud, but that is probably due it being mated up to a non-resonated centre and sports cat downpipe! )
Old 19 June 2014 | 03:11 PM
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Even if you wanted a remap that was as close to factory as possible you would need an uprated fuel pump (£120ish including fitting) and to replace the STi down pipe with a Prodrive one. This is a much less restrictive cat.

That is all I did on my STi, this was the difference.

The spiky graph is the old factory map. Without the exhaust and fuel pump then I have no idea but maybe it would be fair to say well under 300 bhp?

Old 19 June 2014 | 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by urban
Not even close to being a rally car
Old 19 June 2014 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Xline
Do they not have fuel pressure regulators? If so, did you need to have that "upgraded" or re-calibrated to allow a higher pressure through? I don't see upgrading the pump can work on its own can work :| ..
It is the actual pump that is required, a remapped engine needs more fuel. The mapping itself will then control just how big a draw is required from the uprated pump. Without the new pump you could risk fuel starvation. If you upgraded the pump but didn't remap the car then there would be nil difference.

http://shop.grahamgoode.com/fuel-pum...87-64482-p.asp
Old 19 June 2014 | 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by urban
OK, be handy if you knew what downpipe it has.

What you should do IMO is get a prodrive PPP centre & backbox, and depending on what downpipe it has, dare I say the PPP sports cat (or equivalent)
Then get it remapped.
You'd be looking at figures of 315 - 325bhp, and similar torque.
It'll also be much quieter, and generally a much nicer place to be.
I am out washing mine now, it has PPP sports cat and PPP backbox, I can post a video on youtube if you like? I still find it quite loud when I want it to be quiet (coming home) but not loud enough when giving it the beans on a back road somewhere!

Let me get it washed and I will get a video
Old 19 June 2014 | 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by GH80
Let me get it washed and I will get a video
see video to give you an idea of exhaust volume with the PPP sports cat and rear silencer

Old 20 June 2014 | 02:05 AM
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Originally Posted by GH80
see video to give you an idea of exhaust volume with the PPP sports cat and rear silencer

Widetrack Impreza - YouTube
See now I think that sounds great.
Old 20 June 2014 | 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by romford-boy
It is the actual pump that is required, a remapped engine needs more fuel. The mapping itself will then control just how big a draw is required from the uprated pump. Without the new pump you could risk fuel starvation. If you upgraded the pump but didn't remap the car then there would be nil difference.

http://shop.grahamgoode.com/fuel-pum...87-64482-p.asp

so a pump rated at 255lph or one rated at 1,000,000lph, which one will give better bhp????

both will be the same, it's the fpr that will make the difference in what goes into the engine

if you fitted a FPR and set it a 2 BAR with a 1,000,000lph pump OR set the FPR at 3 BAR with a 255 pump, which could produce the higher BHP???

to put it into perspective, a 50 litre tank would be emptied in 12 minutes if all the fuel went straight into the engine
Old 23 June 2014 | 01:07 PM
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The pump itself wont really give you any more bhp,I think what hes getting at is if you keep the old pump in itll loose pressure at the higher end of the rev range due to the pump slowly giving up, whereas if you fitted an uprated walbro for example then itll not lean out top end.
Old 23 June 2014 | 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by BoozyDave

so a pump rated at 255lph or one rated at 1,000,000lph, which one will give better bhp????

both will be the same, it's the fpr that will make the difference in what goes into the engine

if you fitted a FPR and set it a 2 BAR with a 1,000,000lph pump OR set the FPR at 3 BAR with a 255 pump, which could produce the higher BHP???

to put it into perspective, a 50 litre tank would be emptied in 12 minutes if all the fuel went straight into the engine
And this weeks prize for Scoobynet's biggest moron who can't read goes to BoozyDave.
Old 23 June 2014 | 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by MattyB1983
You need a Rover 75 my friend.
Old 23 June 2014 | 05:28 PM
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From: Enginetuner.co.uk Plymouth Dyno Dynamics RR Engine machining and building EcuTek SimTek mapping
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Originally Posted by Xline
Background ...

I have an '03 STI that's completely standard bar a backbox which seems to be pretty much straight through.

First ... I am putting the original backbox back on because I don't like the noise. It gets right on my **** after any more than 10 minutes, and pulling up to the house in the evenings making windows rattle and setting off car alarms is just plain obnoxious. I do try to coast in, but even then you really can't miss it.

Second, I am not remotely interested in upgrading/modify the exhaust system because I want it as quiet as possible, and I am not entertaining decatting/down pipes and all that crap because I want it to go through an MOT without messing about or having to backhand people.

Third, I am not going to change or upgrade anything else. I am keeping it stock.

What will remapping do for me (if anything?) Given the stock 265 (it was 263 on a RR years ago), is it likely to gain anything at all in standard form or am I completely wasting my time and should totally forget it ?
The point of remapping is to optimise whatever situation your car is in by adjusting details such as ignition timing, boost and fuelling. It isn't hard and fast and doesn't have to be used to maximise power output. The purpose is to exploit any potential lurking in your specification and ensure that reliability isn't needlessly compromised.
Assuming you are going to use decent fuel (Shell V Power or Tesco 99) I don't see any reason why you couldn't peg it at 300 bhp for example.
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