Hi all.

Wanted some advise and suggestions on an overheating issue.

It started with a split hose from the turbo to the expansion tank.
Got a new hose topped up collant and all was ok again.

That was fine for 2 weeks, then another coolant hose burst.
This time it was located just under the intercooler and it was a thin metal tube with rubber hoses attahced to each end.

This pipe was replaced, but now the car is overheating and I am not getting any heat coming through the fans.

I have already replaced the thermostat and new radiator as thought the thermo may have been the cause and the radiator was looking a bit tired.

I now I am getting circulation from the water pump as I have bleed the cooling system for what seems like about 5 hours on a few seperate occasions.

The car will get up to temp, about half way, then after 2-3 miles will gradually creep up to almost maximum at which time I have turned the engine off but left the ignition on so the fans are running.

Really stumped as to what to do next.

ANY SUGGESTIONS

For got to say, when the engine was dead cold after the pipes were replaced, I had the car running to bleed the cooling system for air and the CEL light came on and the fans kicked in only after about a minute of running. Then the fans turned off and the CEL light dissapeared.

PLEASE HELP!!!!

 

No cold air coming through the vents is a sign of possbile HG failure. Get a sniff test done to confirm.

Is it loosing coolant?
If the fans came on after only 2 mins of the engine running then maybe a coolant temp sensor has failed? (only a guess)
You might want to check the CEL code. There is a way that you can check this yourself, i beleive there are 2 wires under the dash that you swap over and the CEL flashes a certain number of times. How many times will indicate what is making the CEL light come on, and point you in the right direction. Think there are a few threads on how to do this if you're not sure.

 

If its bursting pipes it the head gaskets.

 

my wifes was the same split three pipe then it was just lossing water, block tesed and head gasket. no sign as started firt time boosted fine but it was over pressuring the systerm si it split pipes.

 

Could be, get a sniff test done.
The coolant pipes MIGHT just be old. That car is 16 years old now.

However, I have to say: THERE IS NO KNOWN METHOD OF PROPERLY BLEEDING A SUBARU COOLING SYSTEM.

Therefore, if you have lost coolant etc, DRAIN AND REFILL.

Do a search on here under my name for how to do it without airlocking.

 

cheers for the responses.

There are no signs of water to oil or oil to water contamination.

Only loses water because it overheats and comes out of the overflow.

I know they can be a bitch to bleed adn there were alot of bubbles initially coming out, but now, there is no more bubbles coming out.

Would anyone recommend K seal? or should I steer well clear?

 

Sounds like early HG failure, mine had no signs of mayo. An easy test is make sure the overflow tank has fluid in(Not the header tank) it's behind the driver head light. Get the car upto temp and give it some boost, pull over and pop the yellow cap on the tank and look into it if you see bubbles your HG is foobed.

 

just had similar experiance, overflow tank pissing out water.

Long story short was head gasket failure in process of rebuild now.

 

it is hg both of are scoobys did the same, split pipes then game over. in the same week so i'm rebuilding both as we text lol well one is done one to go lol

 

Ill try the overflow thing.
I did notice the overflow got full up and bubbles came out previously.

Think you guys maybe right. Only way to check properly is see a specialist I suppose.

 

Nope....any decent garage will do a sniff test, that's all it takes.

 

My mates HG went on his wagon a couple weeks ago, no mayo, ran sweet, loosing coolant all up side of the car when flooring it, couple of hoses split, went through 2 radiators all in a week.

 

Sorry mate but your HG has failed. They usually go between the combustion chamber & the water ways so do not mix oil with water. Often this does not show on a sniff test which is carried out at tick over as combustion gases blow into the cooling system under high boost causing an air lock hence overheating. The best test is to disconnect the pipe which goes from the radiator to the expansion tube & fasten the end which should go to the tube under a wiper blade. Thrash the car down the road when hot & if excessive coolant sprays on your windscreen it's time for a rebuild.

 

buy a block tester £30 off ebay or if you local to stoke i will do it for you

 

spot on mine didnt show on a sniff test, unfortunately it had gone block side aswell, so time for a refresh.

 

HG I'm afraid.