Advice on 1st Subaru
#1
Advice on 1st Subaru
Hi All,
First off, apologies if this is in the wrong area - always a bit of a maze when you're new on a forum.
I'm on the lookout for a change of car, and have always held Imprezas in high regard, albeit never even driving one. So I'm looking for any advice or tips on what to look out for in one.
I'd be looking at a 2001ish bugeye WRX. Am I right in thinking these are the ones with the 2.0 EJ20, with circa 230hp?
Are there any big things to look for, and are they fairly diy friendly when things go wrong? I'm coming from a V8 Mercedes which is a garage job for even the minor things, but my passion is retro Fords (Sierras) so I know my spanners
Cheers
First off, apologies if this is in the wrong area - always a bit of a maze when you're new on a forum.
I'm on the lookout for a change of car, and have always held Imprezas in high regard, albeit never even driving one. So I'm looking for any advice or tips on what to look out for in one.
I'd be looking at a 2001ish bugeye WRX. Am I right in thinking these are the ones with the 2.0 EJ20, with circa 230hp?
Are there any big things to look for, and are they fairly diy friendly when things go wrong? I'm coming from a V8 Mercedes which is a garage job for even the minor things, but my passion is retro Fords (Sierras) so I know my spanners
Cheers
#2
Why a bug? Not that there's a problem with them but whats you're budget?
I personally loved my blob wrx, there a great around car IMO but if you find your self going down the modding route then you will soon be wishing you had a Sti.
With regards to buying a scooby, you might want to go private, there seems to be a few bad one's knocking about at a few dealers. There an enthusiasts car and need to get one that has been owned by a enthusiast. They need a bit of love and care, good fuel, oil, and regular services.
You may want to keep in mind that things like exhausts and any mechanical mods need the ecu to be mapped. Things like dump values are a big no no (the car won't like it) so need to make sure it's had a knowledgeable owner. Some have issues with the shocks but not a huge fix,no real issues, its like any car, its a bit of luck and TAKE YOUR TIME.
If you find a car your interested in then post the details up on here and there's always someone who will go through it with a fine tooth combe.
p.s nice to meet you
I personally loved my blob wrx, there a great around car IMO but if you find your self going down the modding route then you will soon be wishing you had a Sti.
With regards to buying a scooby, you might want to go private, there seems to be a few bad one's knocking about at a few dealers. There an enthusiasts car and need to get one that has been owned by a enthusiast. They need a bit of love and care, good fuel, oil, and regular services.
You may want to keep in mind that things like exhausts and any mechanical mods need the ecu to be mapped. Things like dump values are a big no no (the car won't like it) so need to make sure it's had a knowledgeable owner. Some have issues with the shocks but not a huge fix,no real issues, its like any car, its a bit of luck and TAKE YOUR TIME.
If you find a car your interested in then post the details up on here and there's always someone who will go through it with a fine tooth combe.
p.s nice to meet you
#6
#7
I'd buy one from one of the specialist sites, if you're new to the mark you really need to buy one that has a known history.
I'm sure they guys on here could give you a list of questions to ask when viewing a car e.g.
When was the cambelt done?
Does it have a modified oil pump?
What oil do you use?
Has it been mapped and if so by who?
etc...
I'm sure they guys on here could give you a list of questions to ask when viewing a car e.g.
When was the cambelt done?
Does it have a modified oil pump?
What oil do you use?
Has it been mapped and if so by who?
etc...
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#8
The key is to stay away from badly modified cars. Like any other high performance car they need regular servicing using quality parts and fluids preferably fitted by a specialist.
Brake callipers seize, hoses perish, head gaskets fail, suspension bushes wear and hoses are prone to failing. Cam covers can leak, vacuum hoses split causing boost issues, clutches wear if abused
Major mods like injectors, inter coolers, decats etc do require a tweak to the map by a professional. I'm still waiting to see the evidence that dump valves damage engines.
I think a UK 2001 wrx will have ej205 and 220 bhp, if youre thinking of modifying bear in mind you'll be close to the limit of standard internals at around 300 bhp.
I was looking for a similar car for a friend a few months back, he ended up with a 2001 wrx wagon. The hardest part was finding a standard one that hadn't been ragged or botched.
Earlier cars are easier for the DIY mechanic. I would go as far as to say they are a joy to work on.
Brake callipers seize, hoses perish, head gaskets fail, suspension bushes wear and hoses are prone to failing. Cam covers can leak, vacuum hoses split causing boost issues, clutches wear if abused
Major mods like injectors, inter coolers, decats etc do require a tweak to the map by a professional. I'm still waiting to see the evidence that dump valves damage engines.
I think a UK 2001 wrx will have ej205 and 220 bhp, if youre thinking of modifying bear in mind you'll be close to the limit of standard internals at around 300 bhp.
I was looking for a similar car for a friend a few months back, he ended up with a 2001 wrx wagon. The hardest part was finding a standard one that hadn't been ragged or botched.
Earlier cars are easier for the DIY mechanic. I would go as far as to say they are a joy to work on.
#9
#10
If I was you I would buy this one... https://www.scoobynet.com/subaru-444...s-of-mods.html
#12
Wow, many thanks for all the responses!
I think the bug looks the best! Classics would be 2nd choice, but think they're just a bit too old now for a daily. Budget is about 2-3k. Wouldn't want to go for big power, I'd be happy with just and exhaust and some good brakes.
I'd definitely buy it privately. I've bought secondhand cars myself before, so just looking for anything specific to look for, particular areas where they rust, anything to look for regarding the gearbox (as 4x4 Ford ones are made of chocolate) etc.
I think the bug looks the best! Classics would be 2nd choice, but think they're just a bit too old now for a daily. Budget is about 2-3k. Wouldn't want to go for big power, I'd be happy with just and exhaust and some good brakes.
I'd definitely buy it privately. I've bought secondhand cars myself before, so just looking for anything specific to look for, particular areas where they rust, anything to look for regarding the gearbox (as 4x4 Ford ones are made of chocolate) etc.
#13
Wow, many thanks for all the responses!
I think the bug looks the best! Classics would be 2nd choice, but think they're just a bit too old now for a daily. Budget is about 2-3k. Wouldn't want to go for big power, I'd be happy with just and exhaust and some good brakes.
I'd definitely buy it privately. I've bought secondhand cars myself before, so just looking for anything specific to look for, particular areas where they rust, anything to look for regarding the gearbox (as 4x4 Ford ones are made of chocolate) etc.
I think the bug looks the best! Classics would be 2nd choice, but think they're just a bit too old now for a daily. Budget is about 2-3k. Wouldn't want to go for big power, I'd be happy with just and exhaust and some good brakes.
I'd definitely buy it privately. I've bought secondhand cars myself before, so just looking for anything specific to look for, particular areas where they rust, anything to look for regarding the gearbox (as 4x4 Ford ones are made of chocolate) etc.
You dont have the issues that you get with old fast fords. Rust on subarus is rare on new age cars, the only common rust area is the front cross member. Unless the car has been launched or running high power (300+) the gear boxes are strong (no transfer box) standard cars with good servicing are pretty much bullet proof. Standard brakes with good pads and in good condition are adequate. The four pot callipers can seize but cheap rebuild kits with stainless pistons are readily available.
How many times have I said standard
Personally; I run a modded forged type RA classic, I'm always working on the damn thing, its never let me down but keeping on top of it is a constant battle. Thats modified subarus for you.
#14
i've had my bug eye WRX for 2 1/2 years now, oil is changed every 5000 miles, only use Vpower, i cover about 20k miles a year, 120k on the clock now, i have only needed a new gearbox, clutch, 2 radiators, full set of discs, rear shocks and a couple of wheel bearings, so not too bad
i love it!
running about 280bhp and can still get 30mpg on a run and a lot less when im in the mood
get one with few owners, full history and make sure its been loved
i love it!
running about 280bhp and can still get 30mpg on a run and a lot less when im in the mood
get one with few owners, full history and make sure its been loved
#15
Rust issues I know of and would check is around top windscreen and under boot spoiler mine my brother's and nephews all gone same place so worth a check when viewing, never fan of bugs but def getting better with age! Growing on me! And like said rear shocks can/will start knocking, plus blob interiors are nicer imo, good luck
Last edited by corkers; 05 July 2014 at 07:09 PM.
#16
If your looking at a 2001 bug I highly suggest you check
the rear inner arches near top of suspension.
I bought my 2001 bug wagon with 91k and both sides
had rotted through, didnt know until mot guy put his
fist through.
the rear inner arches near top of suspension.
I bought my 2001 bug wagon with 91k and both sides
had rotted through, didnt know until mot guy put his
fist through.
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