Engine build question
#1
Engine build question
hello all,
im doing the head gaskets on my 93wrx and am looking for some help please:
im going to use genuine steel 1.6mm gaskets. I presume the best place is importcarparts.co.uk? the engine has not overheated so im hoping I wont need a skim.
now there is some debate as to whether I should check the main bearings as well. this obviously adds quite a bit of time and cost to the job (engine out is a piece of **** second time round - spilting the block is not) If I did put in new shells do they have to be measured in with plastic gauge or can I use a standard size seeing that the originals have not failed?
andy
im doing the head gaskets on my 93wrx and am looking for some help please:
im going to use genuine steel 1.6mm gaskets. I presume the best place is importcarparts.co.uk? the engine has not overheated so im hoping I wont need a skim.
now there is some debate as to whether I should check the main bearings as well. this obviously adds quite a bit of time and cost to the job (engine out is a piece of **** second time round - spilting the block is not) If I did put in new shells do they have to be measured in with plastic gauge or can I use a standard size seeing that the originals have not failed?
andy
#2
It is worth doing the bearings while its out but youll also need a seal conversion kit and possibly a bolt kit too. You can use plastigauge but if the crank looks in good nick then just measure the journals and if they all measure right 60mm iirc then just get some standard size bearings, ideally cosworth or acl uprated etc, get the crank polished then throw it all together. Make sure you check clearances in the oil pump too and replace if needed.
Last edited by gazzawrx; 08 July 2014 at 07:32 PM.
#7
Looks like they were about to start knocking on 2 of the rods, just check the crank journals too and make sure you change the mains aswell as the big ends.
also make sure you clean everything as best as you can, a parts washer is best for this and make sure you pay particular attention to the oil cooler if you're reusing the one you took off
also make sure you clean everything as best as you can, a parts washer is best for this and make sure you pay particular attention to the oil cooler if you're reusing the one you took off
Last edited by gazzawrx; 15 July 2014 at 09:15 PM.
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#8
hi gaz, block was cleaned in the dishwasher today :-)
crank is ok and has been cleaned lots with a rag and wd40.
took delivery of acl mains and rods today
Ive cleaned the block face with a blade and a tiny bit of 1200 wet and dry and its come up great. I want to do the same to the heads but how do I clean them after? - I don't want to disassemble those. Will they go in dish washer with the seals still in on a 70 degree heat?
also how do I clean the oil coiler (modine) please?
thanks for your help.
crank is ok and has been cleaned lots with a rag and wd40.
took delivery of acl mains and rods today
Ive cleaned the block face with a blade and a tiny bit of 1200 wet and dry and its come up great. I want to do the same to the heads but how do I clean them after? - I don't want to disassemble those. Will they go in dish washer with the seals still in on a 70 degree heat?
also how do I clean the oil coiler (modine) please?
thanks for your help.
Last edited by dj219957; 15 July 2014 at 10:48 PM.
#9
Lol at the dishwasher, my missus would cut my ***** off.
im not sure whether the seals will hold up in a dishwasher tbh, id imagine they can handle the heat etc but i dont know whether the detergent will weaken the rubber on them. Just make sure the cams are out and the valves are all shut then you should be ok, just use loads of carb cleaner or degreaser after, you could always jet wash them when your done, ive done this wih loads of heads in the past and never had any issues.
itll be a good idea to get yourself access to an air line and blast through all the oil galleries in the block before reassembly just to make sure theyre not blocked etc.
Ive only ever used parts washers and air lines on the modines to get as much crap out as possible, i dont know whether the dishwasher will do the trick for this, all i can think is get yourself a 5 litre bottle of parts cleaner and leave it soaking in that for a while to loosen any crap up and try blasting it through with an air line.
fwiw why dont you give the valves a lap in and change the stem seals while its all apart, itll be a proper rebuild then, last thing you want is to put the heads on, drop the lump in then 6 months down the line a stem seal starts leaking. Thall be a right biatch.
oh and make sure you use either genuine subaru or cosworth head gaskets.
im not sure whether the seals will hold up in a dishwasher tbh, id imagine they can handle the heat etc but i dont know whether the detergent will weaken the rubber on them. Just make sure the cams are out and the valves are all shut then you should be ok, just use loads of carb cleaner or degreaser after, you could always jet wash them when your done, ive done this wih loads of heads in the past and never had any issues.
itll be a good idea to get yourself access to an air line and blast through all the oil galleries in the block before reassembly just to make sure theyre not blocked etc.
Ive only ever used parts washers and air lines on the modines to get as much crap out as possible, i dont know whether the dishwasher will do the trick for this, all i can think is get yourself a 5 litre bottle of parts cleaner and leave it soaking in that for a while to loosen any crap up and try blasting it through with an air line.
fwiw why dont you give the valves a lap in and change the stem seals while its all apart, itll be a proper rebuild then, last thing you want is to put the heads on, drop the lump in then 6 months down the line a stem seal starts leaking. Thall be a right biatch.
oh and make sure you use either genuine subaru or cosworth head gaskets.
Last edited by gazzawrx; 16 July 2014 at 07:39 PM.
#10
cleaning, cleaning and more cleaning today. cleaned the heads with a blade and some 1200 wet and dry. rinsed with brake clean.
ordered a load of gaskets separate and quickly realized I should have just brought the kit!!
all seals are been changed on the bottom end except the crank seals which have been done before anyway from memory. The 6 dowty seals were £18! was gonna reuse but as ive got further into this I am cutting less corners.
ordered a load of gaskets separate and quickly realized I should have just brought the kit!!
all seals are been changed on the bottom end except the crank seals which have been done before anyway from memory. The 6 dowty seals were £18! was gonna reuse but as ive got further into this I am cutting less corners.
#12
Tbh if youre not rebuilding the heads then all you need is a bottom end conversion kit £60, comes with every seal for the bottom end including crank seal etc, a pair of head gaskets, possibly inlet manifold gaskets if yours are not in good shape. Total cost will be about £180 give or take a few quid.
#13
Make sure you take out the orange o ring seal before you soak it as itll distort it. I found this out the hard way and it ended up putting a build a week behind while i waited for import car parts to deliver my new one.
#14
well im pleased to say its all back together and running great!
How long it will last is anyones guess! I really don't care though tbh. Car is worth FA and I just wanted to do it for experience.
Heres what it cost:
Millers assembly lube £5 ebay - wouldn't use this again. Way too gloopy for my liking
Coolant £10 Eurocar parts
Headgaksts - genuine STI MLS £110 Import car parts
ACL race mains and rods bearings £95 Ebay
Block seals/oil pump seal/pick up seal £18 Import car parts*
Dowtey seals £18 Import car parts*
Water cross over seals, thermostat gasket £13 Import car parts*
Cork sump gasket £6 Import car parts - didn't use it in the end! used 3 bond
3 bond £20 ebay - I think this stuff is essential. Don't use cheapo stuff
Piston compressor £5 ebay
Misc £10 BandM
oil and filter £15 yes £15 import car parts
* - wish id brought the kit.
Excluding the cork gasket = £319 - WIN.
How long it will last is anyones guess! I really don't care though tbh. Car is worth FA and I just wanted to do it for experience.
Heres what it cost:
Millers assembly lube £5 ebay - wouldn't use this again. Way too gloopy for my liking
Coolant £10 Eurocar parts
Headgaksts - genuine STI MLS £110 Import car parts
ACL race mains and rods bearings £95 Ebay
Block seals/oil pump seal/pick up seal £18 Import car parts*
Dowtey seals £18 Import car parts*
Water cross over seals, thermostat gasket £13 Import car parts*
Cork sump gasket £6 Import car parts - didn't use it in the end! used 3 bond
3 bond £20 ebay - I think this stuff is essential. Don't use cheapo stuff
Piston compressor £5 ebay
Misc £10 BandM
oil and filter £15 yes £15 import car parts
* - wish id brought the kit.
Excluding the cork gasket = £319 - WIN.
#15
nice work
Have got head gaskets to do on my wrx , but still not sure whefer to do main and rod bearings because of extra time /work, but suppose I better
Was it a lot of extra work to do bearings?
Have got head gaskets to do on my wrx , but still not sure whefer to do main and rod bearings because of extra time /work, but suppose I better
Was it a lot of extra work to do bearings?
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