Wagon Daily Driver; ALK good idea or not?
#1
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From: Leeds, West Yorkshire
Wagon Daily Driver; ALK good idea or not?
Just interested in opinions/experiences really. How drastically does an anti lift kit alter the car? Is it a good thing for a daily driver or not?
#3
Hi Jay
In my experience ALK is not worth the money,what only worth in my view is add on wagon when is lowered or any lowered car is RCA,Roll Correction Center Kit something like is WhiteLine,with this you will feel difference
Second bit what I would recommend is poly bushing the few bits on yours car
Thanks,Jura
In my experience ALK is not worth the money,what only worth in my view is add on wagon when is lowered or any lowered car is RCA,Roll Correction Center Kit something like is WhiteLine,with this you will feel difference
Second bit what I would recommend is poly bushing the few bits on yours car
Thanks,Jura
#4
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Nice one Jura, cheers.
Are there two bushes to fit to the front arms? I haven't unwrapped the alloy ones I bought yet. Also interested to know how the alloy arms will affect the camber etc. on my wagon. Bit worried they might do more harm than good the more I think about it?
Are there two bushes to fit to the front arms? I haven't unwrapped the alloy ones I bought yet. Also interested to know how the alloy arms will affect the camber etc. on my wagon. Bit worried they might do more harm than good the more I think about it?
#5
Nice one Jura, cheers.
Are there two bushes to fit to the front arms? I haven't unwrapped the alloy ones I bought yet. Also interested to know how the alloy arms will affect the camber etc. on my wagon. Bit worried they might do more harm than good the more I think about it?
Are there two bushes to fit to the front arms? I haven't unwrapped the alloy ones I bought yet. Also interested to know how the alloy arms will affect the camber etc. on my wagon. Bit worried they might do more harm than good the more I think about it?
I would polybush what you can polybush,this will make bit difference,but not such what you are expecting,but those bushes are old and perished and if you can upgrade,please upgrade it
Alloy arms are worth too add,not sure,but few years ago has been recall on the Subaru which are running steel arms,they're been replaced for alloy arm
You shouldn't be worried,they will give you bit more camber which is not bad,wagon always will have less camber than saloon and we are always prefer have more camber,what killing the tyres is not camber,but excessive toe
You can maybe do free castor mod,if you are want to do,its free and will have similar benefit as ALK
Thanks,Jura
#6
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How does the free caster mod affect the handling? One thing I noticed was that you can buy caster correction bushes and top mounts.
I'm assuming due to the bushes being eccentric that you wouldn't fit them AND do the free mod, as they look like they are supposed to do the same job. Is that right?
I'm assuming due to the bushes being eccentric that you wouldn't fit them AND do the free mod, as they look like they are supposed to do the same job. Is that right?
#7
How does the free caster mod affect the handling? One thing I noticed was that you can buy caster correction bushes and top mounts.
I'm assuming due to the bushes being eccentric that you wouldn't fit them AND do the free mod, as they look like they are supposed to do the same job. Is that right?
I'm assuming due to the bushes being eccentric that you wouldn't fit them AND do the free mod, as they look like they are supposed to do the same job. Is that right?
Here is thread about the free castor mod
https://www.scoobynet.com/suspension...ade-first.html
and about the flipping top mounts
https://www.scoobynet.com/suspension...-settings.html
Hope this helps
Thanks,Jura
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#9
I went with camber bolts all round along with pro-flex bushes for steering rack and both anti-roll bars. I am running a fair amount of camber too, mine as above does feel a little wooly/dis-connected at low speeds, a bit like having a flat tyre on the rear of a big front wheel drive car and takes a little getting used to, but it's worth it once you start pushing on.
My back end can be a tad lairy when provoked but it's totally controllable and now goes where it's pointed eventually Still not totally happy with it as there is still too much roll especially since I went back to 17's from 18's, next step for me is 24mm rear anti-roll bar and possibly an ALK or bush change, as I also need to get some more caster, I could do with some stiffer springs but I need the ground clearance for a while longer so don't want to lower it and I certainly don't want coilovers.
I'm doing it slowly as and when the bits pop up on here cheap, but doing the above totally transformed the way it feels and handles. You don't need to spend a fortune on fancy bits.
I would echo what Jura said and what's posted in the links above, bushes, geo and tyres will make a very noticeable difference.
Mine is a WRX Wagon and my settings are close to the above ones, I would also recommend you spend on a decent brake set up.
My back end can be a tad lairy when provoked but it's totally controllable and now goes where it's pointed eventually Still not totally happy with it as there is still too much roll especially since I went back to 17's from 18's, next step for me is 24mm rear anti-roll bar and possibly an ALK or bush change, as I also need to get some more caster, I could do with some stiffer springs but I need the ground clearance for a while longer so don't want to lower it and I certainly don't want coilovers.
I'm doing it slowly as and when the bits pop up on here cheap, but doing the above totally transformed the way it feels and handles. You don't need to spend a fortune on fancy bits.
I would echo what Jura said and what's posted in the links above, bushes, geo and tyres will make a very noticeable difference.
Mine is a WRX Wagon and my settings are close to the above ones, I would also recommend you spend on a decent brake set up.
#10
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From: Leeds, West Yorkshire
I went with camber bolts all round along with pro-flex bushes for steering rack and both anti-roll bars. I am running a fair amount of camber too, mine as above does feel a little wooly/dis-connected at low speeds, a bit like having a flat tyre on the rear of a big front wheel drive car and takes a little getting used to, but it's worth it once you start pushing on.
My back end can be a tad lairy when provoked but it's totally controllable and now goes where it's pointed eventually Still not totally happy with it as there is still too much roll especially since I went back to 17's from 18's, next step for me is 24mm rear anti-roll bar and possibly an ALK or bush change, as I also need to get some more caster, I could do with some stiffer springs but I need the ground clearance for a while longer so don't want to lower it and I certainly don't want coilovers.
I'm doing it slowly as and when the bits pop up on here cheap, but doing the above totally transformed the way it feels and handles. You don't need to spend a fortune on fancy bits.
I would echo what Jura said and what's posted in the links above, bushes, geo and tyres will make a very noticeable difference.
Mine is a WRX Wagon and my settings are close to the above ones, I would also recommend you spend on a decent brake set up.
My back end can be a tad lairy when provoked but it's totally controllable and now goes where it's pointed eventually Still not totally happy with it as there is still too much roll especially since I went back to 17's from 18's, next step for me is 24mm rear anti-roll bar and possibly an ALK or bush change, as I also need to get some more caster, I could do with some stiffer springs but I need the ground clearance for a while longer so don't want to lower it and I certainly don't want coilovers.
I'm doing it slowly as and when the bits pop up on here cheap, but doing the above totally transformed the way it feels and handles. You don't need to spend a fortune on fancy bits.
I would echo what Jura said and what's posted in the links above, bushes, geo and tyres will make a very noticeable difference.
Mine is a WRX Wagon and my settings are close to the above ones, I would also recommend you spend on a decent brake set up.
STi wheels going on too. I believe they are 7.5J compared to the WRX 7J?
Part of me thinks it's not worth doing further handling mods until my 106k shocks have been swapped out. I do already have the lower arms though, but was worried they'd cause an issue and be too wide or something.
I too would prefer to avoid coilovers, but unless I get something cheap on here with low miles, shocks are stupidly expensive when top mounts and springs are added. That really pisses me off lol.
#11
Steering rack bushes are definitely worth changing, one of mine was split in half and the other had seen better days, oddly enough mine was on about 105k when I did it, now coming up to 112k.
The shocks on these blob WRX's seem to be ok, mine are anyway (54 plate) imo it's the springs that could do with being a tad firmer but most options seem to lower the car which I can't do until the local council get their finger out and Tarmac the 5/600m road to my house out here in Croatia, hence the rear roll bar idea, I'll do the front one too eventually but I don't want to spend a fortune as I have just shelled out around £4/500 on all the oils and coolant along with brake pads all round
I'm also trying to put some money aside for a new engine in the next year or so because this one is getting on a bit now, I don't want to go to the expense of a cambelt and pumps swap on an engine of this age and miles even though it seems as sweet as a nut, it's going to need money throwing at it sooner rater than later so looking at replacement options at around 120k when the belt is due.
Money, money, money.
The shocks on these blob WRX's seem to be ok, mine are anyway (54 plate) imo it's the springs that could do with being a tad firmer but most options seem to lower the car which I can't do until the local council get their finger out and Tarmac the 5/600m road to my house out here in Croatia, hence the rear roll bar idea, I'll do the front one too eventually but I don't want to spend a fortune as I have just shelled out around £4/500 on all the oils and coolant along with brake pads all round
I'm also trying to put some money aside for a new engine in the next year or so because this one is getting on a bit now, I don't want to go to the expense of a cambelt and pumps swap on an engine of this age and miles even though it seems as sweet as a nut, it's going to need money throwing at it sooner rater than later so looking at replacement options at around 120k when the belt is due.
Money, money, money.
#12
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From: Leeds, West Yorkshire
The similarities are uncanny mate!
I want to go full STI engine and 6 speed box eventually, but I only just spent £1200 having my box, shafts and diff switched out for a non knackered 5 speed. Unfortunately I'd bought one with the opposite type of driveshafts unknowingly, so the lot had to be swapped. That stung, a lot. Had I known, I would have waited it out and got a 6 speed already.
I find my Wagon slightly boaty, so I either want STI or equivalent shocks or some BC coilovers if I must. I'm wary of them though.... I also plan on a 22/24 ARB setup. It's going to take a long time to get all this done though.
For once, I'm in it for the long haul.
I want to go full STI engine and 6 speed box eventually, but I only just spent £1200 having my box, shafts and diff switched out for a non knackered 5 speed. Unfortunately I'd bought one with the opposite type of driveshafts unknowingly, so the lot had to be swapped. That stung, a lot. Had I known, I would have waited it out and got a 6 speed already.
I find my Wagon slightly boaty, so I either want STI or equivalent shocks or some BC coilovers if I must. I'm wary of them though.... I also plan on a 22/24 ARB setup. It's going to take a long time to get all this done though.
For once, I'm in it for the long haul.
#13
Hi Jay
I would say best path of upgrade is first thing go with suspension and brakes then I would go with power upgrades,suspension really depends,I would say KYB are great shocks with right springs you have awesome spec,but still I would have look on Yellow Koni shocks with good springs,coilovers on this everybody have own view...
ALK is something what I would add to upgrades,not sure,this doesn't help anything,we are run WL ALK and this doesn't make any difference,what has make good difference is Roll Center Correction Kit,you can buy alone ball joints from Hardrace or full with arms from WhiteLine(WL),ARB are worth to upgrade,but be careful some ARB's doesn't fit rear,we are went with Eibach front and rear,they're been OK and they're been quiet cheap in US
Polybushing is worth it,poly bush what you can and mainly what you think you will need
Those castor kits and those top mounts you don't need,if you want to buy those top mounts,please speak with Alyn@AS performance I think he have still in stock some and for good price
Hope this help there
Thanks,Jura
I would say best path of upgrade is first thing go with suspension and brakes then I would go with power upgrades,suspension really depends,I would say KYB are great shocks with right springs you have awesome spec,but still I would have look on Yellow Koni shocks with good springs,coilovers on this everybody have own view...
ALK is something what I would add to upgrades,not sure,this doesn't help anything,we are run WL ALK and this doesn't make any difference,what has make good difference is Roll Center Correction Kit,you can buy alone ball joints from Hardrace or full with arms from WhiteLine(WL),ARB are worth to upgrade,but be careful some ARB's doesn't fit rear,we are went with Eibach front and rear,they're been OK and they're been quiet cheap in US
Polybushing is worth it,poly bush what you can and mainly what you think you will need
Those castor kits and those top mounts you don't need,if you want to buy those top mounts,please speak with Alyn@AS performance I think he have still in stock some and for good price
Hope this help there
Thanks,Jura
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