I am going to SORN & garage the Type R over winter.

Garage has no power in it but is dry, my intention is to turn the engine over every fortnight & let it tick over for 5-10mins.

Will this process be the right path to take?

Any advice will be welcome.

 

i thought turning it over and letting it idle then turning it off would be the wrong thing to do as surely it will kill the battery and the engine oil isnt going to get up to temp either

could be wrong though

 

Had my Impreza in storage for over a year didn't turn it over for a year hooked up the battery started first time don't worry about things

 

Looking at garaging my RB320 as well, have done a bit of research, but a lot of varying & differing opinions.

Some people talk about putting the car in an air chamber or bubble, other people say no good as the air being blown into the chamber has the same humidity as the air outside the chamber/bubble, (expensive, but keeps the car dust/insect free, & you can hook the battery in the car up to a trickle charger, when it is in the chamber/bubble, downside is that if it is a bubble rather than a chamber, the hassle you have taking the car in & out).

Some people say to seal the garage & put a humidifier in it to keep the humidity about the 40-50% mark as that level is the level where rust stops, & leather, wood, rubber etc doesn't dry out & go brittle.

Some say that, as long as your car is protected from rain etc, not to seal your garage, to have it so that there is a good air-flow through it. This will dry out any moisture on the car & stop rust from happening.

Hard to know.

I am leaning towards plastic sheets under the car to stop moisture from coming up through the concrete floor, putting a loose dust-cover over the car to keep dust & most insects off it, attaching a trickle charger to the battery, & getting a good dehumidifier.

Looking at a Ruby Dry desiccant dehumidifier as desiccant dehumidifiers work in much lower temperatures, & have a very low noise level, which is useful as the garage acts like a huge loudspeaker & amplifies any sound that is made in it.

 

I garage my type r in winter. I have it on trickle charge as I got through 2x batteries leaving it a week or so at a time and starting for a bit. You can get solar trickle chargers that should do the job ok.
Also, don't leave the handbrake on and do try and move it a tad every couple of weeks to prevent the tyres distorting

 

Been doing this for 11 years in winter, but running up to temp every 6 weeks rather than 2. Still have the same battery!

 

Don't do it.

Firstly, the battery will not charge in 10mins. Alternators rarely fully charge a battery - they only bulk charge - which is approx 80%, they do not equalise the cells to bring it 100%. Not having the battery charged to 100% will shorten its lifespan (OK it may give a few years of service...but I get the batteries on my bikes to last over 10years! )

Secondly, every cold start is a start where excess fuel is pumped in. Fuel is hydrocarbons, mix it with air and add a spark you will get water as a byproduct. Thats what end up in your sump, along with unburnt fuel. This is what causes sludging and oil degradation and is the main engine killer for cars used for short journeys. If the engine never reaches operating temperature this moisture and fuel is never boiled off.

Me? Disconnect the battery, take it out and charge it where you do have access to power using a good quality 5-stage charger (dumb charger will shorten its lifespan), then top it up once every few months. And I'd only lay up the car in storage when its dry...do not wash it then put it away - take it for a drive first. Otherwise this will cause problems which parts rusting and sticking (mainly the brakes).

 

I drive my Caterham in the garage October, jack it up on blocks to stop the tyres flat spotting

And the turn the battery isolator off

Job done

Get in in April and fire her up

 

ALi has the right idea, luckly my garage is heated as the boiler is in there, so i just park it up job done. Then every few months normally 3, i go put car on charge, i should just disconnect battery really

Don't turn it over as the engine will be cold everytime you start it, cause more wear that way, best to wait till when you use it next, remove leads of coil pack and turn it over few times to get oil around engine, then start it

 

I just disconnect live terminal no noise from alarm when putting battery terminal on .Leave hand brake of and any surface rust on brake disks just use fine emery paper .I even coat the car in polish and leave it .I just push clutch in for being a import and let it run and regards engine being cold oil is fired round instantly and there will be oil still on bearing surface etc.

 

If it's decatted make sure your stood outside the garage, **** will kill ya

 

If the garage has a window vent or wall vent make use that's open and charge the battery when you need to, I just leave the roof vent open ( spec c )

I had my evo stored for long periods and never had any problems with it.

If your car has had paint be careful of you put a car cover over it as it would sweat causing the paint to bubble.

 

Big NO NO!

Just leave it alone and when you bring it back out in the summer disconnect the crank sensor and turn it over a few times to build oil pressure, then re-connect the sensor and start her up and go for a long drive.

I would also not leave much fuel in it, then when you come to re start time go and get 10L of fresh fuel and stick that in there and take it easy, drive around for a bit to consume what's in there and then go and brim the tank.

 

Maybe I've just been lucky, but as I said I've been doing this for 11 years and my 22 year old engine is fine.

The oil does get changed not long after taking it back out in the spring though.

 

Just get in and start it up and let it idle ie tap the throttle with out increase the revs and the idle drops instantly so it ain't reving so high

 

Why crank sensor?

Wouldn't discounting coil pack be easier?

 

You should always refrain from letting a car just idle from cold. The most damage (in this type of scenario) will happen prior to engine and oil getting up to temp. This is especially true when letting your car idle from cold on the drive, even when intending to drive it. Start it and drive away as soon as, aiming to get the temps up as soon as practically possible.

I've not used my Impreza's over the winter periods for getting on for 10yrs, and I certainly don't faff around with it. Get a battery conditioner, and either do it on the car (when stored) or take the battery out and keep it charged.

 

Ditto, do it to both the scoob and kitcar. Never had any problems.

Just dont wash it and stick it straight into the garage, abig no no.

 

Disconnecting the coil pack will mean fuel is still injected. In the worst case it'll wet the spark plugs and when you reconnect the coil pack you'll find the engine won't start (flooded).

 

I never ever start my cars I chose not to drive during the salty Swedish winter season. New oil just before and full tank to avoid condensation in the fuel tank. Ctek maintenance charger connected for 6 months avoids battery problems. Some kind of dehumidifier for interior is good too.


Been doing this for over 10 years now without a single problem.