Hey guys, I finally got my ferodo DS2500 front and rear pads for my standard calipers (4 pot front, 2 pot rear) ... now i really want to change them myself. I plan to clean all that i can whilst doing the job, and im going to take my time and not rush. I always go to my garage for things like this but works out too much money. I love my car so im in a learning curve here. Anybody post a few links for detailed descriptions for me, or give me a run down on how to do it safely for dummies?? Thanks guys it's greatly appreciated

 

If it makes any difference, it's an impreza wrx 03 blobeye, completely standard-ish lol

 

Same model and year as mine.
Piece of p!ss to change yourself, calipers don't need to come off.
Get the wheel off and the car safely off the ground. Undo the brake fluid reservoir cap.
Take out the spring clip that goes from the top and bottom pad retaining pins.
Give the pins a gentle tap at the back of the caliper, then get some pliers and pull them out when you have enough of the head showing to get a grip on them, starting with the bottom one so that you can take the metal clip off before you take the top pin out. Careful that the metal clip doesn't spring off on its own.
Get a flat headed screw driver and put it between pad and disc and push against the old pad to push the Pistons back into the caliper body.
Old pads will slide out of the gap. If you still have the anti squeal plates they are not worth putting back in, just put anti squeal grease or copper slip on the pad backing plates and then slot them back in the caliper, after giving everything a good clean with brake cleaner.
Then top pin in, metal plate on, bottom pin in, spring clip back in position, press brake pedal a few times, check fluid level, replace cap.

If the Pistons don't go back in the caliper body far enough, undo the two bolts top and bottom that hold the caliper on the caliper carrier and you can get them to retract further by placing an old pad over the Pistons and winding them in with a g clamp.

Edit: after cleaning I usually give the pad retaining pins a spot of copper slip so they are easy to get in and out again for future changes.

 

You tube is your friend plenty of "how to do's" on there.It is a pretty straight forward job to do though.SJ.

 

As you push the pistons into the caliper you are forcing fluid back up into the reservoir. If it was full to start with you might need to extract some to prevent spillage. Do not get it on your paintwork. Bed the pads in properly. Do not expect to be able to stop on cold mornings

 

Am sure there is a guide in the technical archive's ,

 

My bad , it's caliper rebuild

 

Thanks chums. I'm going to attempt it next week, iv booked a few days off to spend on my car. Iv been researching this most of the day and im gonna take your advice cheers. What did you mean by not being able to stop on cold mornings, during the bedding in process you mean??? I know that they are primarily track pads, but wasn't aware they had to be hot to work efficiently.

 

Don't worry about it, the DS2500's are fine from cold. They're better after a few drags on them but they're by no means a liability when stone cold.

 

Not when they are new, as they I believe they have a specific material on the top layer to help cut and bed them into the disk. There is a guide on here somewhere but I'll go through what I remember from the advice given by Ian at Godspeed. This was for Kevlar pads though, so check with your supplier first.

This usually involves driving like a granny for the first 250 miles, then you can start the bedding in procedure. This involves 6 or 7 hard stops from 70 mph to 20 mph, making sure you allow them to cool in between each application. Make sure never to come to a complete stop either, otherwise you run the risk of over heating the pad and causing it to transfer material to the disk, which will give you nasty vibrations.
I carried this procedure out and I have been amazed at the difference compared to oem discs and pads.