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Old 02 February 2015 | 06:23 PM
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Default engine rebuild how much

Looking at buying a bugeye wrx with 100k on the clock ,just looking into the future really and how much would a basic rebuild cost and how much would a forged rebuild cost cheers live in the north east of england .

Last edited by Steve Scooby; 03 February 2015 at 01:48 AM.
Old 02 February 2015 | 08:31 PM
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It wont need a rebuild with only ten thousand miles on it. lol
Old 02 February 2015 | 09:03 PM
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My old bug wrx now owned by my daughter has just reached 150k only issues at the moment are, front drivers side indicator has an intermittent fault, boot release from cabin won't work and it needs two new tyres

As the old saying goes
If it ain't broke
Old 02 February 2015 | 09:17 PM
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I bought my bug wagon on 115,000 now on 186,000 as long as shes been well serviced and your not running massive power she will run fine with a bit of love and care and as for the price of a rebuild how long is a peace of string all depends on the spec turbo and stuff
Old 02 February 2015 | 10:30 PM
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Hard to say depending on what needs replacing. 1800-2000+ for a standard build, 3000+ forged.
But until then drive it till it brakes..lol
Old 02 February 2015 | 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by rb5 stu
It wont need a rebuild with only ten thousand miles on it. lol
updated
Old 02 February 2015 | 10:44 PM
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cheers for the replys . Going to see it tommorow so hopefully new scooby on the drive .
Old 02 February 2015 | 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve Scooby
Looking at buying a bugeye wrx with 10000k on the clock ,just looking into the future really and how much would a basic rebuild cost and how much would a forged rebuild cost cheers live in the north east of england .
10,000k, so 10 million miles????

I bought my blob wrx with 100k on the clock, I put it on the rollers before I did anything to it, it was running 242bhp . I fitted a vf35 and pinks and a remap 2 years ago and not had any issues

a basic rebuild by a reputable company will be £2.4k upwards depending on spec/upgrades. don't be tempted by a local 'specialist' that quotes £1,500, it'll cost you more to put things right than it would have cost to do it right in the first place
Old 02 February 2015 | 10:49 PM
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you've just edited mileage in first post

is it
A - 100000k, so 100 million miles
B - 100,000KM, so 60k miles
C - 100,000k, meaning 100,000 miles

Old 02 February 2015 | 10:58 PM
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It's had a fair few timing belts then
Old 02 February 2015 | 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by BoozyDave
you've just edited mileage in first post

is it
A - 100000k, so 100 million miles
B - 100,000KM, so 60k miles
C - 100,000k, meaning 100,000 miles

If it was 100,000 miles then it would be written as 100k would it not.
Old 02 February 2015 | 11:02 PM
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that's what I'm trying to figure out

he wrote '10000k' (10 million) first, then changed it to '100000k' 100 million

most people write 100,000 miles as 100k

Last edited by BoozyDave; 02 February 2015 at 11:05 PM.
Old 03 February 2015 | 01:48 AM
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Originally Posted by BoozyDave
that's what I'm trying to figure out

he wrote '10000k' (10 million) first, then changed it to '100000k' 100 million

most people write 100,000 miles as 100k
i meant 100k . thick as ****
Old 03 February 2015 | 08:21 AM
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To answer the original question - there isn't any point in rebuilding a bugeye wrx with 100k miles, as it's too expensive. I'd be selling it as spares or repairs and moving on.
Old 03 February 2015 | 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by rossyboy
To answer the original question - there isn't any point in rebuilding a bugeye wrx with 100k miles, as it's too expensive. I'd be selling it as spares or repairs and moving on.
To answer your original question, which everyone has neglected to answer, budget on at least £2000 for a standard rebuild. They commonly fail due to a knackered crank bearing. This means not only new bearings but a new crank which is around £400. Then it's a gasket kit, modine cooler, labour and anything else that needs replacing.

Old 03 February 2015 | 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Gear Head
To answer your original question, which everyone has neglected to answer,

A little unfair to InTurbo and Boozey Dave
Old 03 February 2015 | 09:54 AM
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Sorry, didn't spot them. Just a lot of people who didn't help!
Old 03 February 2015 | 10:12 AM
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Cheers Brun

Don't be put off with it having 100k on the clock, plenty are still going at 140k+ ,

Most are written off or broken for spares before they get to that mileage. The ones that do fail could be down to neglect, wrong fuel, abuse or a combination of a few things.
Old 03 February 2015 | 12:55 PM
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He was/is looking to the future my help for what its worth was to reassure him that the Wrx bug is well capable of 150k plus miles.
Rebuild costs is such can of worms

Old 03 February 2015 | 03:25 PM
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thanks for the advice lads hopefully going to see the car later .I supose its down to how well its been looked after and the service intervals .
Old 03 February 2015 | 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Gear Head
Sorry, didn't spot them. Just a lot of people who didn't help!
Oi, I was helping - a lot. Why spend £000s fixing up an old shed that's going to be worth less than the rebuild cost at the end of it
Old 03 February 2015 | 10:25 PM
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main point made by replies is - if you think it needs a rebuild, don't buy it, it's not worth it

if it has got S/H and looks and feels good, then take the chance with it. if you have any doubt's, turn around and walk away

I had a blob wrx with 50k and FSH and it felt good. I crashed it and replaced it with a blob wrx with 100k. when I went to look at it I was told about previous owners (loaded and no expense spared) and on the test drive it felt like a new car. it felt loads better than my last one that had half the miles on

don't let 'mileage' be a deciding factor in buying a car
Old 04 February 2015 | 12:37 AM
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Someone on here posted a 2.5 wrx that had done something like 250k miles and running fine.

If you want to forge it and up the power then go for it, but I wouldn't say 100k is a particularly stellar mileage.
Old 04 February 2015 | 12:42 AM
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well been to see the car ,took it for a test drive and it drove spot on ,10 service stamps in the book loads of recipts just had new clutch and cambelt done .Some recipts from scoobyclinic full decat exhaust by them.The only niggle was when the cambelt was done they only changed the belt not the pulleys or waterpump.So i bought it and now sits on the drive .Wil have to do the belt , pulleys and pump forpiece of mind .
Old 04 February 2015 | 12:49 AM
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Sounds spot on, enjoy
Old 04 February 2015 | 07:54 AM
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Sounds like a good example. Nice one
Old 04 February 2015 | 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve Scooby
well been to see the car ,took it for a test drive and it drove spot on ,10 service stamps in the book loads of recipts just had new clutch and cambelt done .Some recipts from scoobyclinic full decat exhaust by them.The only niggle was when the cambelt was done they only changed the belt not the pulleys or waterpump.So i bought it and now sits on the drive .Wil have to do the belt , pulleys and pump forpiece of mind .
Well done

Subaru's waterpumps are pretty reliable and the pulleys are done or not on an inspection basis, some do them as a belt and braces measure and because they are paying a garage to do it think or are pursuaded into doing them for "safety" but it's NOT a necessity as long as they move freely without any play or signs of wear, it's due a belt in 20k so I'd do them then, and the water pump is very basic with nothing much to go wrong, failures are very very rare.

My advice is as above, if it aint broke don't fix it, only thing you need to do with these engines is regular oil changes with quality oil (5k) and don't go over 3k rpm when it's cold which takes about 10/15mins of normal driving.

My thinking is if it's made it to 100k then it's probably a good one. mine just clicked over 113k.
Old 04 February 2015 | 11:04 AM
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Timing belt is 60k OR 5 years, so it should have had 2 done, but if it's only had one done I'd do it for piece of mind
Old 04 February 2015 | 03:02 PM
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its the second time the cambelt has been done,the lad said when they fitted the last one they checked the pulleys and said they didnt need doing as they wernt worn so might leave it for now then .
Old 04 February 2015 | 03:24 PM
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If I was you I would get the belt covers off and have a look for yourself, never take someone else's word for it! Have a good eye ball around all idlers, tensioner for signs of leaks/wear check the belt guide is in speck and check the belt and cam pulleys for any damage etc. You can do all of this with the belt still on and will give you piece of mind.



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