So I've got a 2001 bugeye. Project someone couldnt FinIsh..

He put a sti inlet manifold on it, thought not a problem, I'll buy tactrix and disable the tgv.

Tactrix has arrived. Gone to connect the flash connector and it's not there only a white and red and a green and red wire already connected with spade connectors. I connected the green test ones and ecu flash wont read the ecu, keep getting same error.

software and connection etc appear to be good and up to date.

why won't it read it? Could it have already been mapped with ecutek? Any way to tell?
Only need to turn the tgvs. Off

Just wasted 200 quid on tactrix it seems, not happy

 

You need to find all 4 cables of the flash block mr
pin the black/red and red/green wires together
pin the white/red and red/blue wires together

Then the test mode connectors (green ones) should be green/white and red/black I think.

Some of the early cars only had 2 wires for the flash block instead of 4, I can't recall what the wiring is for them though you'll have to use google powers.

 

the green connectors are there, if they havent been found by a previous owner then you will find them taped out the way,

As above 2001 Bugeye has the 2 pin link and later cars are 4 pin, some have none at all like fozzy`s but they all need the greens connected,

In ECUFlash make sure you choose the correct car when asked or it wont ever read or write a image.

 

Definitely not wasted quid. Worst case scenario, if it is locked, you can just swap out the ECU. Without an immobilizer to worry about, another ECU will be plug and play and get you on track. You can usually find these for well under $100 in the USDM, but lets check a couple things first.

When you connect the green test connectors that you've found, and then you turn the ignition to 'ON' do you get the engine fans cycling on and off along with unusual dash light activity? If you're not seeing that, then you're not in test mode. These cars actually have a second set of test connectors on the passenger side that should be connected at the factory, leaving only the driver side pair to be connected to later put the vehicle in test mode. In some cases we've seen that second pair not actually connected. That would be the first place to look if connecting the green pair under the dash isn't putting the vehicle in test mode with the ignition 'ON'.

If you are in test mode, when you reach the point of seeing an error in EcuFlash, can you paste here your full logging output from the EcuFlash 'Task Info' window? One thing to be aware if is that these early WRX ECUs are only listening for commands for a limited amount of time so try to keep to a minimum the time delay between turning the ignition to 'ON' and then clicking 'OK' in EcuFlash.

bludgod, the 01-02 WRX has one conductor that is being jumpered by the reflash adapter, and the 03-05 WRX has two conductors, at least in the USDM.

-Mike
Tactrix

 

Hi Mike,

Aye over here some of the bugs had the 4 pin connector and the early bugs had 2 pin connectors so you can never be sure!

pete

 

If you go to an Ecutek dealer its a matter of minutes for them to access the ecu and advise wether its been mapped with that software or not.

if you change ecu's then you will need to get your keys recoded to the new one

cheers

bob

 

I did read about passenger side test plugs but couldn't find them. However it does go into test mode correctly I think. Eml light flashes and fans rev on and off etc...

Looking for the flash block connector It seems it has already been tampered with and my guess permanently connected? Looking from the below




Not sure why the black wires are but they were previously taped up..

So this is the error in ecuflash..

17:49:58.968] using metadata XML ID read_wrxnonusdm from file C:/Program Files/OpenECU/EcuFlash/rommetadata/read templates/read_wrxnonusdm.xml
[17:49:58.984] J2534 API Version: 04.04
[17:49:58.984] J2534 DLL Version: 1.01.4358 Oct 10 2014 03:49:00
[17:49:58.984] Device Firmware Version: 1.15.4363
[17:49:58.984] Device Serial Number: TAjRF0Rl
[17:50:04.406] denso02_bootloader_cmd_start
[17:50:05.031] readback fail
[17:50:05.546] J2534 error [no data was read].
[17:50:06.046] J2534 error [no data was read].
[17:50:07.046] J2534 error [no data was read].
[17:50:07.750] J2534 error [no data was read].
[17:50:08.265] J2534 error [no data was read].
[17:50:08.984] J2534 error [no data was read].
[17:50:09.000] denso02_bootloader_cmd_start
[17:50:22.609] readback fail
[17:50:23.125] J2534 error [no data was read].
[17:50:23.640] J2534 error [no data was read].
[17:50:24.656] J2534 error [no data was read].
[17:50:25.953] J2534 error [no data was read].
[17:50:26.468] J2534 error [no data was read].
[17:50:27.171] J2534 error [no data was read].
[17:50:27.187] denso02_bootloader_cmd_start
[17:50:42.656] readback fail
[17:50:43.171] J2534 error [no data was read].
[17:50:43.687] J2534 error [no data was read].
[17:50:44.703] J2534 error [no data was read].
[17:50:45.406] J2534 error [no data was read].
[17:50:45.921] J2534 error [no data was read].
[17:50:46.640] J2534 error [no data was read].
[17:50:46.656] denso02_bootloader_cmd_start
[17:50:47.593] readback fail
[17:50:48.109] J2534 error [no data was read].
[17:50:48.625] J2534 error [no data was read].
[17:50:49.656] J2534 error [no data was read].
[17:50:50.359] J2534 error [no data was read].
[17:50:50.875] J2534 error [no data was read].
[17:50:51.593] J2534 error [no data was read].
[17:50:51.609] denso02_bootloader_cmd_start
[17:50:52.546] readback fail
[17:50:53.156] kernel get version
[17:50:54.406] readback fail
[17:50:55.015] interface close
[17:50:58.031] interface close

Ill try again pressing ok very quickly after turning the key, but I tried several times and kept getting tje same non connection result above.

I'm hoping it's something simple that I'm overlooking. I've seen a v3 wrx Ecu going cheap on a online auction site I'm going to buy and see if it makes a difference. if I go down that route I'll have to learn about recoding the key in the mean time.

I'll try again tomorrow to read it again immediately after I turn ignition on Etc, at the same time, even before, to hopefully rule that scenario out of the equation

 

with bugs it's normally a case of turning the key and pressing the button at the same time. If you have 4 wires there for your flash block though they may not be setup right.

a v3 wrx ECU won't be right for you I think bugs are v7 - wonder if there is anyone nearby who would swap ECU's with you for 5 seconds. Maybe try your ecu in their car and see if it will let you load a map on to it?

 

So after many attemats there is definitely something wrong with the ecu. It's not reading at All. Connected the flash block wires again myself and still no joy. This ecu must have ecutek on it. Which is why the flash block connecter had already been permanently joined. Being an early bug, it had just the two wire flash block, red and white and red and green wires.


I've bought another v3 ecu. Should be here soon.

I took the kickplste off and had a look, my current ecu saY's v3 on it in bit orange text. The replacement v3 also has same serial numbers on it.

My next problem will be recoding the key to it.

Any idea how you get this done? I don't have immobiliser or anything with new ecu, just the ecu itself.

Had a search but can't find a definate answer for this year of car with a v3 ecu

 

I always thought the 16bit cars had the immobiliser stuph outside the ECU - if it does need recoded then it's a job for subaru dealer or your local ECUtek guy. They will need to use the SSM-III type stuph to get the job done.

 

Oh, well hopefully it doesn't need recoding! That would be a right result! So if the immobiliser is outside the ecu, it would just be plug and play effectively?

 

yeah that's what I thought mr - i've been on the look out for an '03 one for mine as there is supposed to be a limit on how many flashes you can actually hit them with.

 

It will definitely need recoding

bob

 

Cheers for confirmation Bob.

Guess I'll need a trip to Subaru then

Am I going to have to swap Ecus at Subaru then get them to. Recode it? Think I can get there in limp mode on existing Ecu.

 

Will ecuflash still be able to read from the new ecu before I get the key coded?

Just plugged it in, the car seemed to go in test mode ok, but couldn't connect to ecuflash. The red key light remained solid the whole time however