Help on HID's
#1
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Help on HID's
Hi guys,
I've got a 55plate blobeye wrx & I am wanting to upgrade to hid's what bulb do these cars use, H7 H4 etc. help will be much appreciated also does anybody know where I can get a kit that will give me 12000k as I'm after the purple glow?
I've got a 55plate blobeye wrx & I am wanting to upgrade to hid's what bulb do these cars use, H7 H4 etc. help will be much appreciated also does anybody know where I can get a kit that will give me 12000k as I'm after the purple glow?
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Disagree my blue 55w hids have much better output then any crappy hallogens to the point were in the darkest lanes i never need full beams. If had enough of both to come to my conclusion
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So the bulbs I need are deffo the H1's? I'm aware of overall light after the 6k mark being not as light but I don't mind, I love the look of the purple
#7
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I like the blue colour too and find it much cooler and eaiser on the eyes at night
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Actuly all "science" proves is that the colour temp range you say is best is whats closest to sunlight. And what most people are used to. You can addapt to see perfectly well with any colour headlight bulbs its the power output not the colour that cuts threw the night
#13
the bulbs are not blue, there 4300kelvin, the blue your seeing is caused by the sheild infront of the bulb, the cutoff gives the flickering blue effect, if you have them against a wall youll see most of the spectrue, just more blue
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Im talking about the new range of german cars. Not like the old x5 that used to flicker blue these lights are blue! the beams are blue. The clusters look dark blue what ever way you look at them. I think these may be laser lights
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Actuly all "science" proves is that the colour temp range you say is best is whats closest to sunlight. And what most people are used to. You can addapt to see perfectly well with any colour headlight bulbs its the power output not the colour that cuts threw the night
Power output means nothing and does not make them better.
Last edited by The Trooper 1815; 27 October 2015 at 06:04 PM.
#19
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Actuly all "science" proves is that the colour temp range you say is best is whats closest to sunlight. And what most people are used to. You can addapt to see perfectly well with any colour headlight bulbs its the power output not the colour that cuts threw the night
The bulb MANUFACTURERS produce a graph of colour temp vs usable light level. The usable light tapers off pretty quickly after 6000K, and at 6000K you are about what a DECENT halogen bulb produces.
Last edited by alcazar; 27 October 2015 at 06:22 PM.
#20
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Trust me, I've done HOURS of research on this, and have a physics degree to back it up
My own car is fitted with projectors, see my thread on archives. It uses 4300K bulbs. They give a white light, but any one approaching gets the blu-ish tint due to diffraction patterns.
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I went for the bluest hids i could on ebay and i run the beams as low as poss and ok theres no cut off like a projector but the light is not scatterd bad (asuming thats because off the style of the blobeyes clusters) and output is MUCH better then the frankly dangerous halogens fitted before.
H1 halogens are tiny. H1s hid bulbs are at least 3x as big
#22
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Sigh.
I'll answer this first, if I may.
Any light unit is designed so that it gives a correct beam pattern from it's intended bulb. The bulbs are made to within 0.1mm tolerances to get the filament EXACTLY where it should be, at the focal point of the reflector. If it's all working properly and the bulb is optically accurate, the beam pattern will be correct and the amount of scatter lessened.
Auto Express used to do a yearly "Which bulb is best" article, where they used an artificial road setup, with sensors all over the place, to measure brightness, beam pattern and scatter, all within a high degree of accuracy. Hella and Cibie possess similar.
They found, almost every year, that high quality STANDARD 55W halogens were actually better than even some 100W cheapies, let alone any cheap 55W, simply because of the inaccuracy of the cheap bulbs.
TBH, you van do this yourself if you have a halogen bulb in place. Simply place a tiny piece of something under one corner of the bulb flange so that it doesn't sit quite flat. Now look what's happened to the beam pattern.
This is why projectors are now becoming much more comon, simply because, with an accurate bulb, they control cutoff and beam pattern better than ANY refelector can.
As for HID, my absolute bottom line is DO NOT use H4's. The H4 uses a twein filament design THAT CANNOT YET BE REPLICATED in HID, with the result that poor beam pattern and scatter are going to occur.
Single filament design bulbs are better, but once again, we come to accuracy. The halogen filament is tubular in design, emitting light along a carefully designed tubular length.
HID burners are NOT tubular,they are globular so go outside the design parameters of the halogen, and, if we are being strict, shouldn't be used with a light unit designed for halogen....and that includes projectors so-designed.
Indeed, the UK government only just hung back from including a bulb type/headlight type comparison for MoT, where an HID in a light designed for halogen would have been a fail, but VOSA still strongly warn against it..and it may yet come.
Second point: you will get less scatter with single filament bulbs, but it WILL be there. Have you checked by viewing the cat front-on from distances?
Third point: bulb physical size is irrelevant.
As for blue, why not do a simple trial? replace ONE bulb with a 4300K. Take the ca to a long straight road, put lights on and cover each in turn by standing in front of it.
I can tell you now, that changing from your blue to 4300K will be like daylight for you
How exactly do a "decent" halogen 55w bulb and a cheap ebay 55w bulb differ?
Any light unit is designed so that it gives a correct beam pattern from it's intended bulb. The bulbs are made to within 0.1mm tolerances to get the filament EXACTLY where it should be, at the focal point of the reflector. If it's all working properly and the bulb is optically accurate, the beam pattern will be correct and the amount of scatter lessened.
Auto Express used to do a yearly "Which bulb is best" article, where they used an artificial road setup, with sensors all over the place, to measure brightness, beam pattern and scatter, all within a high degree of accuracy. Hella and Cibie possess similar.
They found, almost every year, that high quality STANDARD 55W halogens were actually better than even some 100W cheapies, let alone any cheap 55W, simply because of the inaccuracy of the cheap bulbs.
TBH, you van do this yourself if you have a halogen bulb in place. Simply place a tiny piece of something under one corner of the bulb flange so that it doesn't sit quite flat. Now look what's happened to the beam pattern.
This is why projectors are now becoming much more comon, simply because, with an accurate bulb, they control cutoff and beam pattern better than ANY refelector can.
As for HID, my absolute bottom line is DO NOT use H4's. The H4 uses a twein filament design THAT CANNOT YET BE REPLICATED in HID, with the result that poor beam pattern and scatter are going to occur.
Single filament design bulbs are better, but once again, we come to accuracy. The halogen filament is tubular in design, emitting light along a carefully designed tubular length.
HID burners are NOT tubular,they are globular so go outside the design parameters of the halogen, and, if we are being strict, shouldn't be used with a light unit designed for halogen....and that includes projectors so-designed.
Indeed, the UK government only just hung back from including a bulb type/headlight type comparison for MoT, where an HID in a light designed for halogen would have been a fail, but VOSA still strongly warn against it..and it may yet come.
Second point: you will get less scatter with single filament bulbs, but it WILL be there. Have you checked by viewing the cat front-on from distances?
Third point: bulb physical size is irrelevant.
As for blue, why not do a simple trial? replace ONE bulb with a 4300K. Take the ca to a long straight road, put lights on and cover each in turn by standing in front of it.
I can tell you now, that changing from your blue to 4300K will be like daylight for you
Last edited by alcazar; 28 October 2015 at 01:01 PM.
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Morimoto projectors from TRS are really, really good. I retrofitted my old insignia headlights with the Morimoto D2S 3.0 projectors and was truly amazed by the light quality. The H1 are even better! I'm thinking of getting them for my classic after Christmas along with the XB35 kit.