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Broken top pipe of radiator .. Help?!

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Old 13 May 2016 | 07:05 PM
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Default Broken top pipe of radiator .. Help?!

What can I do?! Is this a new radiator job? Also what does this line actually do ?

Cheers,

ash

Old 13 May 2016 | 08:29 PM
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yeah new rad, people have glued them but it wont last, cheaper to buy a new rad then run out of coolant at the wrong time and chuff an engine.
Old 13 May 2016 | 09:17 PM
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New rad time, return to the header tank isn't it?

It's probably had enough because that colour pipe is nasty. Each to their own and all that though.

Plastic goes brittle with age, the heat cycling doesn't help matters. Is that hose actually long enough to not cause stress on the joint?
Old 13 May 2016 | 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by JDM_Stig
yeah new rad, people have glued them but it wont last, cheaper to buy a new rad then run out of coolant at the wrong time and chuff an engine.
Bah I've plugged both ends for now seems fine on the drive home . What does that pipe do ?
Old 13 May 2016 | 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by mickywrx
New rad time, return to the header tank isn't it?

It's probably had enough because that colour pipe is nasty. Each to their own and all that though.

Plastic goes brittle with age, the heat cycling doesn't help matters. Is that hose actually long enough to not cause stress on the joint?
Haha its orange to match my wheels! yeh the joint is more than long enough it actually snapped when I stupidly tried to prize a small gap inbetween that hose and the top rad hose to slide a jubilee clip on.

yeh its a return to the header tank but it just goes to the top of the rad so unsure when its actually in use. i drove home (5+ miles) off boost and the temp stuck at normal so its not affecting my normal drive yet but obviously i can't leave it like this!

think i might see if japspeed will do me a bundle deal on rad + fmic
Old 14 May 2016 | 12:06 AM
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Iv had this happen to me before and had to replace rad, I yanked the pipe off and ended up doing what you have that is definitely a weak spot on the rads, may be a good time to consider an alloy one
Old 14 May 2016 | 02:08 PM
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I've done this as a fix until I get my new radiator delivered.


Its set rock hard
Old 14 May 2016 | 07:02 PM
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New standard fit rads are cheap enough and work, big alloy things aren't always better.
Old 14 May 2016 | 07:04 PM
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Looking at it, you're going to have the same problem again, lack of space to actually fit the pipe.

Thats the thing with multi-ply silicone hoses, they are a lot bigger externally than rubber hoses.
Old 14 May 2016 | 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by mickywrx
New standard fit rads are cheap enough and work, big alloy things aren't always better.
+1 proven to increase temperatures under engine bay than genuine ones, unless you go front mount and put a reverse scoop on it
Old 14 May 2016 | 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by ZANY
+1 proven to increase temperatures under engine bay than genuine ones, unless you go front mount and put a reverse scoop on it
How would a reverse scoop help?

Proven to raise temperatures and not help with cooling at all...
Old 14 May 2016 | 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by mickywrx
Looking at it, you're going to have the same problem again, lack of space to actually fit the pipe.

Thats the thing with multi-ply silicone hoses, they are a lot bigger externally than rubber hoses.
Yeh that's the main reason it snapped off there wasn't room for the New hose. I'm sourcing a new radiator off japspeed jus waiting for ed to reply . Currently apoxy resin and that putty setting the mould on the old radiator should hopefully work as a 1 week stop gap. . The hose fits ... Just ... over this setup
Old 14 May 2016 | 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Ash Webster
Yeh that's the main reason it snapped off there wasn't room for the New hose. I'm sourcing a new radiator off japspeed jus waiting for ed to reply . Currently apoxy resin and that putty setting the mould on the old radiator should hopefully work as a 1 week stop gap. . The hose fits ... Just ... over this setup
Don't bother with an alloy rad. You are going 5o have no need for one. It's a waste of money

I'm running a standard rad at over 500hp and have no issues at all
Old 14 May 2016 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by JGlanzaV
Don't bother with an alloy rad. You are going 5o have no need for one. It's a waste of money

I'm running a standard rad at over 500hp and have no issues at all
I was thinking about having a Mishimoto alloy rad installed ... not worth it over stock rad then ?
Old 14 May 2016 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by JGlanzaV
How would a reverse scoop help?

Proven to raise temperatures and not help with cooling at all...
Apparently if running a front mount I've seen people take the bonnet scoops off and replace them with the reverse flat type and when I've asked why I have been told it helps keep the engine temps down, I've ran an alloy rad on my last bug with top mount with no problems aswell in the past
Old 15 May 2016 | 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by ZANY
Apparently if running a front mount I've seen people take the bonnet scoops off and replace them with the reverse flat type and when I've asked why I have been told it helps keep the engine temps down, I've ran an alloy rad on my last bug with top mount with no problems aswell in the past
Well just because people have done it doesn't make it right.

I've got a reverse scoop on mine and it does not keep temperatures down. In fact running 12 degrees hotter now on average. But most people don't have the equipment to know that. Yours will have ran hotter too.

Jonnys3 no, no need for a alloy rad. Co pletely pointless actually. I am just about on the verge of needing a dual core rad, but that is due to my close deck 2.1 etc.... on an open deck or semi closed there is no issue
Old 15 May 2016 | 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by JGlanzaV
Well just because people have done it doesn't make it right.

I've got a reverse scoop on mine and it does not keep temperatures down. In fact running 12 degrees hotter now on average. But most people don't have the equipment to know that. Yours will have ran hotter too.

Jonnys3 no, no need for a alloy rad. Co pletely pointless actually. I am just about on the verge of needing a dual core rad, but that is due to my close deck 2.1 etc.... on an open deck or semi closed there is no issue
So it's pointless using them reverse scoops then? More of a change looks wise I suppose, I never drive fast enough to let anything get hot bro I put an alloy rad on my last bug after I changed Oem twice due to the top part of the rad leaking guess I should have got a genuine item but opted for the alloy one for the looks I suppose the alloy rad no probs, my blobeye rad is genuine at present doesn't have any issues as the bugeye one did

500bhp WOW u monster
Old 15 May 2016 | 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by ZANY
So it's pointless using them reverse scoops then? More of a change looks wise I suppose, I never drive fast enough to let anything get hot bro I put an alloy rad on my last bug after I changed Oem twice due to the top part of the rad leaking guess I should have got a genuine item but opted for the alloy one for the looks I suppose the alloy rad no probs, my blobeye rad is genuine at present doesn't have any issues as the bugeye one did

500bhp WOW u monster
https://www.scoobynet.com/projects-40/952187-my-classic-scoob.html

Yeah, it's a false economy really. People just see shiny bits and assume that it must be better!
Old 15 May 2016 | 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by mickywrx
Looking at it, you're going to have the same problem again, lack of space to actually fit the pipe.

Thats the thing with multi-ply silicone hoses, they are a lot bigger externally than rubber hoses.
+1
Old 15 May 2016 | 02:30 PM
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I got a Japspeed one as a replacement (£100 delivered not bad) purely because if i got an oe one again i'd have the same problem with the hoses. The ally 'should' let me force the hose over it. 'should'. >.

Last edited by Ash Webster; 16 May 2016 at 03:44 PM.
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