Broken top pipe of radiator .. Help?!
#3
Unmapped 12.4s @ 105
iTrader: (29)
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 11,777
Likes: 4
From: Newcastle. 330bhp-289lb/ft @ 1bar boost - 12.4s @ 105mph
New rad time, return to the header tank isn't it?
It's probably had enough because that colour pipe is nasty. Each to their own and all that though.
Plastic goes brittle with age, the heat cycling doesn't help matters. Is that hose actually long enough to not cause stress on the joint?
It's probably had enough because that colour pipe is nasty. Each to their own and all that though.
Plastic goes brittle with age, the heat cycling doesn't help matters. Is that hose actually long enough to not cause stress on the joint?
#4
#5
New rad time, return to the header tank isn't it?
It's probably had enough because that colour pipe is nasty. Each to their own and all that though.
Plastic goes brittle with age, the heat cycling doesn't help matters. Is that hose actually long enough to not cause stress on the joint?
It's probably had enough because that colour pipe is nasty. Each to their own and all that though.
Plastic goes brittle with age, the heat cycling doesn't help matters. Is that hose actually long enough to not cause stress on the joint?
yeh its a return to the header tank but it just goes to the top of the rad so unsure when its actually in use. i drove home (5+ miles) off boost and the temp stuck at normal so its not affecting my normal drive yet but obviously i can't leave it like this!
think i might see if japspeed will do me a bundle deal on rad + fmic
#6
Iv had this happen to me before and had to replace rad, I yanked the pipe off and ended up doing what you have that is definitely a weak spot on the rads, may be a good time to consider an alloy one
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#9
Unmapped 12.4s @ 105
iTrader: (29)
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 11,777
Likes: 4
From: Newcastle. 330bhp-289lb/ft @ 1bar boost - 12.4s @ 105mph
Looking at it, you're going to have the same problem again, lack of space to actually fit the pipe.
Thats the thing with multi-ply silicone hoses, they are a lot bigger externally than rubber hoses.
Thats the thing with multi-ply silicone hoses, they are a lot bigger externally than rubber hoses.
#10
#11
#12
Yeh that's the main reason it snapped off there wasn't room for the New hose. I'm sourcing a new radiator off japspeed jus waiting for ed to reply . Currently apoxy resin and that putty setting the mould on the old radiator should hopefully work as a 1 week stop gap. . The hose fits ... Just ... over this setup
#13
Yeh that's the main reason it snapped off there wasn't room for the New hose. I'm sourcing a new radiator off japspeed jus waiting for ed to reply . Currently apoxy resin and that putty setting the mould on the old radiator should hopefully work as a 1 week stop gap. . The hose fits ... Just ... over this setup
I'm running a standard rad at over 500hp and have no issues at all
#14
#15
Apparently if running a front mount I've seen people take the bonnet scoops off and replace them with the reverse flat type and when I've asked why I have been told it helps keep the engine temps down, I've ran an alloy rad on my last bug with top mount with no problems aswell in the past
#16
Apparently if running a front mount I've seen people take the bonnet scoops off and replace them with the reverse flat type and when I've asked why I have been told it helps keep the engine temps down, I've ran an alloy rad on my last bug with top mount with no problems aswell in the past
I've got a reverse scoop on mine and it does not keep temperatures down. In fact running 12 degrees hotter now on average. But most people don't have the equipment to know that. Yours will have ran hotter too.
Jonnys3 no, no need for a alloy rad. Co pletely pointless actually. I am just about on the verge of needing a dual core rad, but that is due to my close deck 2.1 etc.... on an open deck or semi closed there is no issue
#17
Well just because people have done it doesn't make it right.
I've got a reverse scoop on mine and it does not keep temperatures down. In fact running 12 degrees hotter now on average. But most people don't have the equipment to know that. Yours will have ran hotter too.
Jonnys3 no, no need for a alloy rad. Co pletely pointless actually. I am just about on the verge of needing a dual core rad, but that is due to my close deck 2.1 etc.... on an open deck or semi closed there is no issue
I've got a reverse scoop on mine and it does not keep temperatures down. In fact running 12 degrees hotter now on average. But most people don't have the equipment to know that. Yours will have ran hotter too.
Jonnys3 no, no need for a alloy rad. Co pletely pointless actually. I am just about on the verge of needing a dual core rad, but that is due to my close deck 2.1 etc.... on an open deck or semi closed there is no issue
500bhp WOW u monster
#18
So it's pointless using them reverse scoops then? More of a change looks wise I suppose, I never drive fast enough to let anything get hot bro I put an alloy rad on my last bug after I changed Oem twice due to the top part of the rad leaking guess I should have got a genuine item but opted for the alloy one for the looks I suppose the alloy rad no probs, my blobeye rad is genuine at present doesn't have any issues as the bugeye one did
500bhp WOW u monster
500bhp WOW u monster
Yeah, it's a false economy really. People just see shiny bits and assume that it must be better!
#19
#20
I got a Japspeed one as a replacement (£100 delivered not bad) purely because if i got an oe one again i'd have the same problem with the hoses. The ally 'should' let me force the hose over it. 'should'. >.
Last edited by Ash Webster; 16 May 2016 at 03:44 PM.
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