OIL LEVEL BEST MAKE & GRADE
#1
OIL LEVEL BEST MAKE & GRADE
Hi guy's it's great to be back on the road in a scoobie especially a jdm model 2007 with the 2 litre engine what a
machine. The oil level is a bit low imo now some people say the level should be to the FULL lettering on the dipstick which is under the cut out notch on the dipstick. Now I've always kept it level with the top notch above the FULL lettering where do you lot think it should be ?
What's the best oil to use ? Everyone says millers do you agree 10 - 60 .
Also do you agree that scoobies do use a bit of oil without necessarily having a leak.
machine. The oil level is a bit low imo now some people say the level should be to the FULL lettering on the dipstick which is under the cut out notch on the dipstick. Now I've always kept it level with the top notch above the FULL lettering where do you lot think it should be ?
What's the best oil to use ? Everyone says millers do you agree 10 - 60 .
Also do you agree that scoobies do use a bit of oil without necessarily having a leak.
#2
I use Millers CFS 10w 60 fully synthetic racing oil. It's good stuff. Not cheap but get what you pay for etc.
My recently forged 2.5 Hawk STi does use a bit of oil, but nothing too bad, I check it around twice a week and there are no leaks.
My dipstick has an upper notch, and a hole just above the "F" mark, I keep my level on or just below the hole.
I think the upper notch is where your oil level should be when it's hot rather than cold, (given that oil expands when hot) but others may or may not back me up on that.
Having said that, a 2.0 JDM could have different dipstick markings to a UK 2.5, I don't know.
My recently forged 2.5 Hawk STi does use a bit of oil, but nothing too bad, I check it around twice a week and there are no leaks.
My dipstick has an upper notch, and a hole just above the "F" mark, I keep my level on or just below the hole.
I think the upper notch is where your oil level should be when it's hot rather than cold, (given that oil expands when hot) but others may or may not back me up on that.
Having said that, a 2.0 JDM could have different dipstick markings to a UK 2.5, I don't know.
Last edited by Hawkeye D; 26 June 2016 at 09:10 AM.
#3
I use Millers CFS 10w-40
I dont track it or give it much abuse really, i thought 60 was for track only.
I also use a slight bit of oil, no leaks etc but seems to end up in the breather system (which is a known thing)
I have a 2 litre, its on the top notch.
I dont track it or give it much abuse really, i thought 60 was for track only.
I also use a slight bit of oil, no leaks etc but seems to end up in the breather system (which is a known thing)
I have a 2 litre, its on the top notch.
#5
I used Millers CFS 10w50 for yonks and literally never needed to top up. I've switched to Millers Nano 5w40 and I'm using significant amounts of oil after just a few blasts, car seems noticeably quicker though as proven on the drag strip with average times dropping from 12.9 to 12.5 with no other mods. Car wheelspins more now in the dry than it did in the wet. So those infamous magazine tests may have some weight.
#6
I used Millers CFS 10w50 for yonks and literally never needed to top up. I've switched to Millers Nano 5w40 and I'm using significant amounts of oil after just a few blasts, car seems noticeably quicker though as proven on the drag strip with average times dropping from 12.9 to 12.5 with no other mods. Car wheelspins more now in the dry than it did in the wet. So those infamous magazine tests may have some weight.
#7
Thanks for your feedback guys. It's got fuchs silkolene pro s in at the moment 10 -60 it's done about 3k since the last oil change I'm tempted to change it & the filter. I think I'll stick to what's all ready in. I always let it warm up before I even moving off so 10 -60 should be ok.
Thanks again guys & the levels going level with the top notch on dipstick.
Thanks again guys & the levels going level with the top notch on dipstick.
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#8
I used Millers CFS 10w50 for yonks and literally never needed to top up. I've switched to Millers Nano 5w40 and I'm using significant amounts of oil after just a few blasts, car seems noticeably quicker though as proven on the drag strip with average times dropping from 12.9 to 12.5 with no other mods. Car wheelspins more now in the dry than it did in the wet. So those infamous magazine tests may have some weight.
.4 sec gains from a oil change.
More than likely your old oil was ****
And for thise kinda gains in guessing at least ten years old.
Bullpoo if u ask me
#9
The car never once wheelspun with the CFS 10/50 in the dry but now I get wheelspin in 2nd with the Nano 5/40.
Like I say though it's as good as Olive Oil for longevity. Other cars/driver styles/grades may differ. That said, even though Syvecs Pat Herborn, TRL, Tweaks Developments and PVD say my engine is fine, I know it's fcuked.
It was this article that made me curious to try it.
http://www.fastcar.co.uk/tuning/millers-nanodrive-test/
Last edited by RS_Matt; 26 June 2016 at 01:14 PM.
#10
#12
#16
Hi I use millers cfs 10-40 in all the scoobs I have owned never had one drop go down batween service intervals each year although I check the oil on a regular basis never had a problem I do leave the oil to warm up before any spirited driving
#18
Couple of thousand a year.
#19
#22
I used millers 5w 40 for years when I had my impreza no issues at all 50w and 60w is far too thick for normal road use.
Absolutely no need for 50 or 60w unless the car is heavily modded or used on track where the Temps are high.
All you will be doing is lowering your mpg because your oil is too thick
Absolutely no need for 50 or 60w unless the car is heavily modded or used on track where the Temps are high.
All you will be doing is lowering your mpg because your oil is too thick
Last edited by fat-thomas; 26 June 2016 at 04:18 PM.
#23
I know what your saying mate the car has been looked after by pole position in Willenhall & they have always used that oil. It's not heavily modified so I'm not sure why. Not so worried about the mpg just want to look after it & make sure it has the best.
#24
Subaru themselves recommend 10w40 while 50 or 60 won't do it any harm it's really not needed on a near standard road car.
All you are doing is creating lower mpg by having over thick oil.
If it's modified or tracked then thicker oil is a must.
All you are doing is creating lower mpg by having over thick oil.
If it's modified or tracked then thicker oil is a must.
#25
If your oil is too hot buy a cooler dont change grade.
Does work but best to address the real problem which would be heat.
And your oil is never gona get u that extra time on a drag strip lol.
Nonsense
Does work but best to address the real problem which would be heat.
And your oil is never gona get u that extra time on a drag strip lol.
Nonsense
#26
When it came to proving his claims he failed spectacularly.
He needs 0w 0 oil in his old wrx
#27
Thanks for your feedback guys. It's got fuchs silkolene pro s in at the moment 10 -60 it's done about 3k since the last oil change I'm tempted to change it & the filter. I think I'll stick to what's all ready in. I always let it warm up before I even moving off so 10 -60 should be ok.
Thanks again guys & the levels going level with the top notch on dipstick.
Thanks again guys & the levels going level with the top notch on dipstick.
#28
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A 5w or 10w 40 is absolutely fine for road and light track use, the higher the larger number does not mean its any better at dispersing heat, thinner oils will move faster around the engine giving less drag on parts whilst still lubricating.
Too much bull about high weight oils being better when they really are not.
Too much bull about high weight oils being better when they really are not.
#29
I'm beginning to wonder if thick oil was put in for a reason now maybe a leak perhaps don't know. The guy I bought it from was as sound as a pound & he realy knew his scoobies. I recon he could have took the engine out cleaned it & put it back IN HIS SLEEP he knows his stuff & I trust he uses that oil for a reason.