Possibly Headgasket failure.
#1
Possibly Headgasket failure.
Lately been havng few issues with my 2006 Subaru Impreza wrx Hawkeye which seem to be narrowing now down to headgasket failure.
Changed the coolant today and new thermostat installed. Burped the system and not a single bubble was appearing. Both radiator pipes were hot and fabs kicked in like they should. But have over the last few months noticed my coolant level dropping and expansion tank not actually filling up after a hard run. I have had the temperature rise to the red zone and there was a point where it came out all over the floor after a trip along the motorway but after I refilled with water to get me home it didn’t overheat at all. (20 minutes driving) I have noticed some water coming from my exhaust but am unsure what else I could check now. Hopefully the level stays put with drivinng for the next few days. If it is the head gasket though what is The rough prices to get it done nowdays? And who is recommended around the South Wales ( swansea) area. Thanks, Ed
#3
when it’s cooled down fully take off the expansion tank cap , if there’s a lot of air in the tank then not good , sounds like you are loosing water rather than it over filling the non pressured expansion tank attached to the radiator , when the non pressured tank fills up it’s supposed to return as it’s cooling if it does not then engine is full of air , over heating not a good sign , gas test time , on a big note if it’s hg then use a good hg cosworth and arp bolts etc plus always rebuild the bottom end or it will go not long after , i learnt that the expensive way on a fsti a year latet bottom end went , when my newer fsti hg went bottom end seemed fine until it was stripped and bearings were quite bad but crank was re useable
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#5
You've got all the symptoms of HG
If you do get them changed, it is worth going for a bottom end bearing change at the same time as a minimum. After that you could go the whole hog and have rings and head refurb (may as well if you're that far)
But here's the thing - be sure you're taking the motor who knows their Subaru's so many have had to pay twice (or even more) to get the job done
If you do get them changed, it is worth going for a bottom end bearing change at the same time as a minimum. After that you could go the whole hog and have rings and head refurb (may as well if you're that far)
But here's the thing - be sure you're taking the motor who knows their Subaru's so many have had to pay twice (or even more) to get the job done
#7
Doesn't sound good unfortunately.
As said really, watch the expansion tank next to the headers. Check the level is right up to the top when cold. Drive the car and check again when cold the next day. If the level moves, then it could be heads lifting under boost and combustion gasses pushing their way into the water system displacing water as they do so.
Change the high pressure cap on this bottle just in case as these are known to go occasionally.
Any pics or more info?
As said really, watch the expansion tank next to the headers. Check the level is right up to the top when cold. Drive the car and check again when cold the next day. If the level moves, then it could be heads lifting under boost and combustion gasses pushing their way into the water system displacing water as they do so.
Change the high pressure cap on this bottle just in case as these are known to go occasionally.
Any pics or more info?
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#8
Will go out and check on the level now, of coolant but after burping there’s was no big bubbles at all coming up yesterday. Hopefully after letting it cool it will be still full. Will be getting a sniff test done tomorrow so hopefully that will be a Clear sign of headgasket failure and if it’s not then I’m not sure what could be the problem then! Only thing that worries me is after burping the system I noticed some water coming out of the exhaust when revving it very slightly for a few times. No hard Revving just 2-3000 rpm. Havnt noticed and leaks. And driven the car for 20 miles since topping the coolant up yesterday and the temp guage has stayed solid where’s it should and not overheated.
#9
Is your WRX standard? Does it still have the TD04 turbo fitted or has someone upgraded it at some point? What turbo and power is it running?
With an un-forged 2.5 Subaru engine it's always advisable to keep boost below 1.35bar max.
With an un-forged 2.5 Subaru engine it's always advisable to keep boost below 1.35bar max.
#10
Standard turbo. Updated fuel pump, front mount intercooler, remap to 278bhp. Running 16-17 psi. From what I remember.
#13
You're not running crazy boos then at around 1.1 bar.
As said above though, if you're getting the head gaskets done it would be very sensible to get the whole engine rebuilt.
A full forged re-build will be £3.5 - 5k depending where you have it done. The head gaskets will probably cost you £1.5k through someone who knows what they are doing. Chances are, if it's a good builder they will also urge you to get a full rebuild. You may find yourself paying £1.5k for head gaskets very shortly followed by £3.5-5k for the rebuild once the bottom end fails. If it were me, I'd save myself £1.5k and get the full engine done straight away.
Not quite sure why your car needed a FMIC at 280bhp level on a TD04 turbo?
As said above though, if you're getting the head gaskets done it would be very sensible to get the whole engine rebuilt.
A full forged re-build will be £3.5 - 5k depending where you have it done. The head gaskets will probably cost you £1.5k through someone who knows what they are doing. Chances are, if it's a good builder they will also urge you to get a full rebuild. You may find yourself paying £1.5k for head gaskets very shortly followed by £3.5-5k for the rebuild once the bottom end fails. If it were me, I'd save myself £1.5k and get the full engine done straight away.
Not quite sure why your car needed a FMIC at 280bhp level on a TD04 turbo?
#14
You're not running crazy boos then at around 1.1 bar.
As said above though, if you're getting the head gaskets done it would be very sensible to get the whole engine rebuilt.
A full forged re-build will be £3.5 - 5k depending where you have it done. The head gaskets will probably cost you £1.5k through someone who knows what they are doing. Chances are, if it's a good builder they will also urge you to get a full rebuild. You may find yourself paying £1.5k for head gaskets very shortly followed by £3.5-5k for the rebuild once the bottom end fails. If it were me, I'd save myself £1.5k and get the full engine done straight away.
Not quite sure why your car needed a FMIC at 280bhp level on a TD04 turbo?
As said above though, if you're getting the head gaskets done it would be very sensible to get the whole engine rebuilt.
A full forged re-build will be £3.5 - 5k depending where you have it done. The head gaskets will probably cost you £1.5k through someone who knows what they are doing. Chances are, if it's a good builder they will also urge you to get a full rebuild. You may find yourself paying £1.5k for head gaskets very shortly followed by £3.5-5k for the rebuild once the bottom end fails. If it were me, I'd save myself £1.5k and get the full engine done straight away.
Not quite sure why your car needed a FMIC at 280bhp level on a TD04 turbo?
Can’t really afford the fully forged route since I’m looking to buy a house lol. Was looking into the future of a running a td05-16g turbo which a friend is running on his 2.5 since it produced insane results! But I never got round to buying and installing it. And this happens now. Just been out to check the header tank and it’s maybe 1mm lower down from when I topped it up on Monday.
#15
1mm isn't worth worrying about. Should be as far up as it can go, so literally just under the cap lip. If it drops out of sight more than a few mm than I'd get more concerned.
As said already, change the cap first and see where you go from there.
There are much better turbo's for the 2,5 engine than the TD05-16g units. You want a VF43 or a VF48 turbo which are designed especially for the 2.5 engines. Had the Vf48 on my hawk WRX and it was a total monster.
As said already, change the cap first and see where you go from there.
There are much better turbo's for the 2,5 engine than the TD05-16g units. You want a VF43 or a VF48 turbo which are designed especially for the 2.5 engines. Had the Vf48 on my hawk WRX and it was a total monster.
#16
You're not running crazy boos then at around 1.1 bar.
As said above though, if you're getting the head gaskets done it would be very sensible to get the whole engine rebuilt.
A full forged re-build will be £3.5 - 5k depending where you have it done. The head gaskets will probably cost you £1.5k through someone who knows what they are doing. Chances are, if it's a good builder they will also urge you to get a full rebuild. You may find yourself paying £1.5k for head gaskets very shortly followed by £3.5-5k for the rebuild once the bottom end fails. If it were me, I'd save myself £1.5k and get the full engine done straight away.
Not quite sure why your car needed a FMIC at 280bhp level on a TD04 turbo?
As said above though, if you're getting the head gaskets done it would be very sensible to get the whole engine rebuilt.
A full forged re-build will be £3.5 - 5k depending where you have it done. The head gaskets will probably cost you £1.5k through someone who knows what they are doing. Chances are, if it's a good builder they will also urge you to get a full rebuild. You may find yourself paying £1.5k for head gaskets very shortly followed by £3.5-5k for the rebuild once the bottom end fails. If it were me, I'd save myself £1.5k and get the full engine done straight away.
Not quite sure why your car needed a FMIC at 280bhp level on a TD04 turbo?
Then there's the clutch to look at while it's out...
#17
I sincerely hope it isn't HG but there are alot of 2.5 owners, including me, on Scoobynet who went through various stages of denial before facing reality. Not saying you are doing that, but it was only after I faced up to facts and got it sorted did I really enjoy the car again.
For what it's worth, I didn't go forged. At the time Slowboy said pistons, rings, etc were all in good health so I went Cosworth gaskets and ARP studs. Car has a JGM map (358hp) on top mount (Hawk STi). That was 6 years and 50k miles ago.
Good luck either way
For what it's worth, I didn't go forged. At the time Slowboy said pistons, rings, etc were all in good health so I went Cosworth gaskets and ARP studs. Car has a JGM map (358hp) on top mount (Hawk STi). That was 6 years and 50k miles ago.
Good luck either way
#19
Really? Just for head gaskets?
I'd expect to get the head gaskets done for £1.5k. I was quoted that a couple of years ago. You won't need a clutch doing with head gaskets, but depending on mileage of car it would be worth considering if engine is out.
#20
You didn't read my post - included clutch
#21
#23
Unlikely.
When was the cambelt last changed? Most garages will check the water pump when they do the cambelt and change if required. Wouldn't have though the water pump will be the cause of air in your system.
#24
Cam belt was a changed 4 years ago when I bought the car as it had 58000 miles and nothing saying about any belts being changed. So I had all the belts done straight after I bought it and nothing was said about the water pump.
#25
You'd have thought the water pump was ok then.
Just keep monitoring that expansion header tank when cold every day like a hawk.
Have you got anything in the car to monitor boost levels? May be worth you getting a cheap KKL cable and BTSSM or torque pro android apps to monitor this. If it's over-boosting I'd want to know about this. Also, the app will help you carefully monitor the temperature. The standard gauge sits in the middle for most temperatures and will only show high in very extreme cases. With an app monitoring you can watch it by degree and even see the fans kicking in.
Just keep monitoring that expansion header tank when cold every day like a hawk.
Have you got anything in the car to monitor boost levels? May be worth you getting a cheap KKL cable and BTSSM or torque pro android apps to monitor this. If it's over-boosting I'd want to know about this. Also, the app will help you carefully monitor the temperature. The standard gauge sits in the middle for most temperatures and will only show high in very extreme cases. With an app monitoring you can watch it by degree and even see the fans kicking in.
#26
You'd have thought the water pump was ok then.
Just keep monitoring that expansion header tank when cold every day like a hawk.
Have you got anything in the car to monitor boost levels? May be worth you getting a cheap KKL cable and BTSSM or torque pro android apps to monitor this. If it's over-boosting I'd want to know about this. Also, the app will help you carefully monitor the temperature. The standard gauge sits in the middle for most temperatures and will only show high in very extreme cases. With an app monitoring you can watch it by degree and even see the fans kicking in.
Just keep monitoring that expansion header tank when cold every day like a hawk.
Have you got anything in the car to monitor boost levels? May be worth you getting a cheap KKL cable and BTSSM or torque pro android apps to monitor this. If it's over-boosting I'd want to know about this. Also, the app will help you carefully monitor the temperature. The standard gauge sits in the middle for most temperatures and will only show high in very extreme cases. With an app monitoring you can watch it by degree and even see the fans kicking in.
Got a an ob2 reader so will use that! Noticed too and dunno how only now I have. That the radiator cap I had on was rated for 1.1bar. So just now swapped it over to the original Subaru one which was 137kpa. ( changed the radiator so used the new radiator cap.) will keep checking fluid level. But did a pressure test from the radiator and no leaks obvious. Pressure held solid.
#29
In the end I didn't go forged like others have advised as it was very early onset HG failure with no overheating. A local subaru specialist and engine builder reckoned the bottom end was fine. Fingers crossed he was right!
#30
KEPt an eye on the coolant levels and they havnt really dropped at all. For the last few days been keeping a sharp eye though! Unable to find my ob2 reader to check the exact coolant temperature readings when driving but the guage has sat solid where it should be. Havnt really been boosting it or driving hard too. But no overheating showing whatsoever.