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Bang them out from the front with a suitable sized hammer. Refit, making sure the grooves are aligned in the hub. Then use a nut over a socket or other suitable sized spacer to wind them home.
Fronts are easy. Rears less so as the brake backing plate is in the way. Remove the ABS ring and it is then possible to wiggle them free.
I’m struggling to find anyone who’ll fit the spacers for me. It’s the rears apparently. The ABS ring is the issue as I’m told their very brittle and easy to break when fitting the new studs. Even my tuner is against the idea and has suggested going for the bolt on type of spacer as then it’s child’s play. Issue is I’ve already bought the 15mm versions and test fitted one set so can’t send them back, plus from what I’ve read 20mm will be too much and cause arch rubbing. Plus if I go for 20mm my old studs may be too long and rely on my alloys (BBS Spec C) to have a good sized recess in the back of them to alloy the old stud to poke into.
An option is 15mm spacers at the front where it’s easy to fit and 20mm at the rear using the bolt on spacers. Is that a big no no or can I run a 10mm across the axle difference...???
Earlier in the year I attempted to fit my own brakes and snapped a bolt on a rear calliper. Couldn’t even budge the fronts. Left it in the capable hands of a local garage in the end to sort out the mess.
After a long conversation with my tuner this evening apparantly the chances of it going wrong are fairly high as there are a fair few tricky parts that need to be removed and could break or get damaged. If I didn’t have bad luck then I wouldn’t have any luck and tbh I’m just not prepared to take the risk.
On the other hand if anyone out there can 100% confirm the 20mm bolt on versions will not rub/catch on the arches then I’ll swap the 15mm versions for them instead.
Buy this one And problem solved.. About rears and abs ring.. Yes its pain in the ***.. I had to replace rear bearings and while my friend diassamble everything he just get brake cleaner spray it and try to just clean it with towel and it end up braking without using any force.. So yes they are pretty easy to break...Also that long bolt which holds rear arms and everything in place its most likely seezed so u will need to drill it out and put new one.. Especially if your car is driven winter...
Buy this one And problem solved.. About rears and abs ring.. Yes its pain in the ***.. I had to replace rear bearings and while my friend diassamble everything he just get brake cleaner spray it and try to just clean it with towel and it end up braking without using any force.. So yes they are pretty easy to break...Also that long bolt which holds rear arms and everything in place its most likely seezed so u will need to drill it out and put new one.. Especially if your car is driven winter...
Hope this helps you
p.s. Sry for my bad english i am from Slovenia
That sir is exactly what I’ve heard.
The good thing about the spacers shown in your link they are like all the other 20mm versions that bolt to the hub, and although that is the simplest way it seems the 20mm versions will rub the arches.
Im trying to find someone to tell me otherwise but so far no luck...
u have choice of 15mm or 25mm(the ones i posted u link) with bolt on solution so no need for extended studs.. Only u need to check is if yoru wheels have "gap" to fit over studs... Oem wheels all enkeis/bbs got that so theres no problem 15mm is max without cutting/rolling arches cuz i have it on hawk so its perfect fit but with yokohama ad08 they were rubbing on the rear so i get them machined on 14mm in the back so now theres no rub and fit is on point.
U might consider aswell im runnign 2degrees camber front and 1.7 in the back so if u have stock aligment even 15mm will rub in the back especially with some "meaty" tires like yokos..
Last edited by ma7yEEEx; 19 December 2018 at 09:19 AM.
u have choice of 15mm or 25mm(the ones i posted u link) with bolt on solution so no need for extended studs.. Only u need to check is if yoru wheels have "gap" to fit over studs... Oem wheels all enkeis/bbs got that so theres no problem 15mm is max without cutting/rolling arches cuz i have it on hawk so its perfect fit but with yokohama ad08 they were rubbing on the rear so i get them machined on 14mm in the back so now theres no rub and fit is on point.
U might consider aswell im runnign 2degrees camber front and 1.7 in the back so if u have stock aligment even 15mm will rub in the back especially with some "meaty" tires like yokos..
Mate your being very helpful, thanks. The link to your photos doesn’t work though so as much as I’d LOVE to see your set up I can’t. Can you post a pic directly to your reply???
Ill check out your link with the 15mm versions that bolt on. Thank you.
You sir are right the 15mm versions are the bolt on type!
However how sure are you the standard Spec C BBS alloys have enough of a recess on the back to allow for the extra little remaining bit of the standard bolt to sit into? Although a while ago since I last looked I seem to remember them not having much of a recess.
Just so we’re on the same page these are my alloys :
To be on a safe side and if u have possibility to take it off and measure how deep is that pocket it would be perfect so u do the math and u are on the safe side! Idk about JDM spec wheels but i guess they are pretty much same as Europe/UK specs only width is smaller on yours compered to mine which is 17x8
Than make sure u choose the right bolt pattern 5x100/ 5x114,3
Spacers from the link and 15mm are indetical to this(this are mine):
And here you have fitment:
so there you have it i hope i helped you to decide Fitment with this in on point. On the front its plenty of room but on the rear they are spot on If u are low as me than you would probably rub just a little bit as i did :P But on stock height or lowering springs only, there wont be problem probably.. Just look out for the rears if u have that "overdose" fender lip... Cuz on widetracks blobeyes and hawks theres almost no lip(atleast EU models) there its almost like its cut away so et38 is pretty easy to fit but with that big *** lip u can rub even with et45! So yes check it again and make sure everything its gonna work otherwise u will rub like crazy on rear or u will need to roll the fenders
Last edited by ma7yEEEx; 19 December 2018 at 05:02 PM.
Mate you’re a legend. Your help has been awesome, thank you. The stance on your car is exactly what I’m after. Here’s mine as we speak (no spacers) :
At the weekend I’ll take the wheel off and measure the stud so I know how much will stick out of a 15mm spacer. Then fingers crossed there is that much of a recess on the rear of the alloy.
Right bad news. Today I finally got the chance to measure things up. Here’s what I found :
In taking the wheel off I measured the recessed part of the back of the wheel. The depth of the recess is only 3.5mm (and that excludes the raised writing within the recesses so really it’s more like 3mm) :
Then I measured the length of the existing wheel studs, they measure 24mm :
So taking into account a 15mm wheel spacer I’ll need a 9mm (minimum) recess in the back of my wheel to accommodate the protruding original stud, I only have 3mm. Even if I went for 20mm spacers it’ll mean something is likely to touch or be *** paper close. What are my options? Do I grind a mm or two off of the existing studs and opt for the 20mm spacers? How have people got away with using 10-15mm spacers in the past? Is it because their wheels have bigger recesses??? Such a simple thing is causing such a headache!!
If I go 20mm then it looks as if I may rub on the rear arches. The gap at the moment from the wheel/tyre face to the outside of the arch is 28mm :
...But the arch lip is 16mm :
...giving me a 12mm difference, something that is surely suitable for a 15mm spacer but may be too much for a 20mm spacer without having the arches modified.
Surely at some point in the past this issue has come up before. Has anyone any personal experience they can share with me to point me in the right direction? I’ve already ordered and sent back the 15mm versions with extended studs and don’t want to have to do the same with either the 15mm or 20mm bolt on versions if clearly (and I think my maths is right) they’ll not fit in the first place.
PLEASE HELP!!!! (Thank you)
Binny
Last edited by Binny; 27 December 2018 at 05:15 PM.
My car is a hatchback so probably irrelevant. Just noticed that of my 2 sets of wheels , the narrower tyre gives loads of clearance compared to OEM wheels which rub the arch liner very slightly.
Right bad news. Today I finally got the chance to measure things up. Here’s what I found :
In taking the wheel off I measured the recessed part of the back of the wheel. The depth of the recess is only 3.5mm (and that excludes the raised writing within the recesses so really it’s more like 3mm) :
Then I measured the length of the existing wheel studs, they measure 24mm :
So taking into account a 15mm wheel spacer I’ll need a 9mm (minimum) recess in the back of my wheel to accommodate the protruding original stud, I only have 3mm. Even if I went for 20mm spacers it’ll mean something is likely to touch or be *** paper close. What are my options? Do I grind a mm or two off of the existing studs and opt for the 20mm spacers? How have people got away with using 10-15mm spacers in the past? Is it because their wheels have bigger recesses??? Such a simple thing is causing such a headache!!
If I go 20mm then it looks as if I may rub on the rear arches. The gap at the moment from the wheel/tyre face to the outside of the arch is 28mm :
...But the arch lip is 16mm :
...giving me a 12mm difference, something that is surely suitable for a 15mm spacer but may be too much for a 20mm spacer without having the arches modified.
Surely at some point in the past this issue has come up before. Has anyone any personal experience they can share with me to point me in the right direction? I’ve already ordered and sent back the 15mm versions with extended studs and don’t want to have to do the same with either the 15mm or 20mm bolt on versions if clearly (and I think my maths is right) they’ll not fit in the first place.
PLEASE HELP!!!! (Thank you)
Binny
Get the 15mm spacers bolt them on and see how much extra thread you have on the studs. Then grind away what's needed and no more I think you'll find is not much.
20mm will be 100% too much for the rear.. If u mean to permanently do this thing than buy 15mm bolt on spacers which i sent u link above and cut off studs.. But u need to consider if u ever want to run without spacers or different wheel setup u will not be able to drive safe with so short studs thread left (too much chance to lose a wheel when getting some G-s in corners). Because the maximum non bolt spacers without longer studs is 5mm so if u cut 5mm or less of stud u probably have still enough thread left to run it safe, More than 5mm and u are risking of losing wheel...
25 November 2018 | 05:31 PM
Wheel Spacers
And problem solved.. About rears and abs ring.. Yes its pain in the ***.. I had to replace rear bearings and while my friend diassamble everything he just get brake cleaner spray it and try to just clean it with towel and it end up braking without using any force.. So yes they are pretty easy to break...Also that long bolt which holds rear arms and everything in place its most likely seezed so u will need to drill it out and put new one.. Especially if your car is driven winter...
or u will need to roll the fenders 
