My car is currently running 520bhp/535pft on a stock location turbo, but I am considering going for a rotated 600+ setup, has anyone done it and regretted it? Or is it definitely worth it? Did the car stay reliable?

I have a 2.35 Subaru classic if that helps and I have seen that rcm now do a 3" v band rotated setup which is persuading just that much more!

 

depends what you use the car for. I've read about lads going from 450 to 550+ in a road car and saying its basically unusable, and the other areas of the car that need engineering to cope with a 20% increase also add to the costs.

Are you just chasing numbers or whats the justification in needing more power?

 

The engine is built to a high spec and should handle 600bhp, it was always the end goal to go for that, the car I'd a track/ fast road car and I just feel the need for more power Haha

 

 

well engine spec is the following:

Engine:
Enginetuner built 2.35. 8.53-1 ratio
Rcm omega pistons 97.5mm
Arrow conrods
Rcm headgaskets
2.5 nitrided crank
Rcm billet timing guide
Acl race bearings
Cosworth timing belt kit

Large port avcs heads
14mm headstud conversion
Supertech valves
272 gt spec cams
Tomei Vernier pulleys
Ported heads

Only thing I wish that I had done was 1mm bigger valves.

 

You should find it spools better and power hits harder, only you can decide if you want to spend money to get that.

It should not affect reliability so long as your other components are ready for the power increase.

 

standard position turbos have moved on quite a bit since the old days when they wouldn't do over 500bhp lol

600 standard position is fairly easy from what iv seen

but they do even bigger!!

http://www.forcedperformance.net/xr-...ru-wrxsti.html

 

 

 

 

I walked also the path and you will add power till you know you went too far..

Depends off course of your goals, but for me it's was a fast sunday drive, with some track-days.

Wen't from td04, 20g SC46, and now a rotated BW 7670.. Running now 550bhp in a classic.
Yes it's entertaining when you step on the gas. But have to run much stiffer suspension due to the power
The car is less in balance, and seaching for grip when you step on the gas.
Also on track-days on small tracks, i have to straighten the car more before it i can give full power.
I noticed i'm less enjoying my car. because it's has become to much hardcore. Stiffer suspension, noisy brakes more lag.

For me it is too much, next setup will be max 420bhp with max spool/response/crispy pedal.
I'm now concentrating on weight reduction, thats for me the best way to build high response classic which handles crisp and where you don't need the loads off power to be fast

 

Yep been there done it also...

Briefly mine was:

CDB 2.1 with 14mm head stud conversion
Supertech valvetrain on port polished V3 heads
Rotated inlet mani
Rotated billet GT30 on Rcm twisted zorst set up
Dccd 6 speed with plated diff
Big brakes all round
In a V4 Type R

Fast car yes
Enjoyable Yes
Driven to its peak No
For a road car it was fast but over specced, in essence over spent for nothing, A good spooly set up 400hp classic with torque is more than enough!

A nice classic, transplanted with a Newage engine mapped to 420ish job done....

@KenC Your Type R is going strong bro, My mate loves it, going in for a few further tweeks soon

 

It's a common misconception that a rotated kit spools faster than the OE location turbos. I know it's not actually the case as we've rotated plenty of stock location units and seen no benefit from this other than you get a neater run to the turbo intake wise.
Spool is dictated by the size of the exhaust uppipe, the size of the turbine housing, the turbine wheel and the size and efficiency of the engine. AVCS is obviously a big advantage, dual AVCS even more so.

 

My take on all this as we built and mapped the car for Tom. The car is ballistic as it is, I've ran my Dragy GPS on it over the 100-200kmh and it was as fast as an Enzo and not far behind the Pagani Zonda just to put things in perspective. The engine is really efficient and doesn't need stacks of boost to make the numbers but as we all know you always want more

Personally I'd like to see a Gen 2 GTX3076 on this one, try and retain some of what makes it really nice to drive low down and to push for just over 600hp on a meth mix.

 

 

I have replied to your message buddy

 

I've got a clinic gt30 billet for sale also . Lol. did 535 and 577 bhp

 

It does indeed, we've seen 580hp on pump fuel at just 1.8 bar from one of our 2.3s on this setup.
TOTB this year Joe?

 

I'm affraud not Martyn, in fact maybe I will but I doubt it'll be in a Subaru. Are you coming up for it

 

That's interesting Martyn, wondering now how much benefit I would gain on mine from a Gen II.

 

I have had a handful of 400+ MY01> cars, not the topic I know, and one MY99 classic at circa 500 bhp (2.1 engine tuner, S206 billet) which I cannot take the glory for building as it was Ian's off this forum.

The v7 and v8 cars I ran with 400+ were great fun on the road, and with adequate handling mods were a great all rounder, whereas the classic was an all different experience which felt much more planted and responsive than the newage cars - weight I am sure! However I would not use the classic as a daily as it was simply too uncomfortable and raw. I did manage a 11 second 1/4 with **** tyres and was relatively competitive on the sprint against similar/higher powered cars.

I am now in a MY08 hatch and I have to say I prefer the drive as an all round road car with some track capabilities, however I am definitely south of 500 bhp on a MD321V twin scroll which I am considering pushing a little further with a meth injection

 

Yeah should be there m8 all being well. Car is being swapped over to Link Thunder engine management at the moment so depends how all that goes.

 

Hard to say as yours has a pretty good unit already in the Clinic GT30 Blouch unit.
The Gen 11 is a big jump forward from the Gen 1 but your unit wasn't a Garrett comp wheel anyway.

 

I've not heard 1 mapper say anything bad about the gen 2 stuff. It. Gets rave reviews, especially the 3076, hence why I went for 1, however I changed the exhaust housing to a Tial Vband unit and ceramic coated it. Mine is on a 2.1 and is mega. As you know only too well Martyn, the 2.1 really is the sweet spot for these cars, in terms of performance, longevity and value to build. You've built enough of them

 

Your getting on really well with the link stuff arnt you? Would be good if you could get the car out. Totb is fun, but your at the point of needed a prepped track arnt you?

 

Cool, no complaints from me re power delivery on this one.

 

Yes m8 gotta love a 2.1, for me it's still the best balance particularly for those who want a high revving engine but I get why people love the 2.3s.
The Link stuff is really good, excellent product combined with excellent UK and New Zealand tech support should you need it and a lifetime warranty.
I am getting to that point m8 yes, I'd like to run 9.5 or faster on no prep surfaces then get it to Pod and see what it'll do there.
Sorry for getting off topic a bit Tom, GTX3076 Gen 11 with a 0.82 housing m8

 

Martyn get to the pod and get a camera in the car.
Tom or anyone else who wants a pukka, brand new gen 2 gtr 3076r with ceramic coated Tial 0.82 housing. Get in touch as I have one here

 

Im currently on 350ish hp and am aiming at 450hp for my 6 speed Type R. Yes, it's tempting to hit 500+ but from everything everyone has said on this and other forums, once you get past that, the fun factor (on the road) begins to diminish and the expense shoots up..

 

If you dont mind me asking where did you get the Gen2 GT3076R from?