adam.pah

I can’t make up my mind on what turbo to go for and need some inspiration. I’m running a 2.1 forged build with lots of supporting mods and I want a stock location turbo. It has to be fast spooling turbo as this a road car. I’m not particular about numbers but I guess something around 450-500hp would be nice. Budget up to £2k. Just had a nightmare trying to fit an MD321T so won’t be going that route.

what would you do?

thanks in advance for the advice.

Tidgy

SC42 will fit and be around those figures and in budget

spindle121

MDX 555. ��

adam.pah

I’ve heard that the sc42 doesn’t make that power, lucky to get 400. MDX is an option. Anyone have experience with a GTX3076 or BW efr? I guess they will need some fabrication though

Tidgy

made over 500 on meth

i;d rather have a 420bhp and faster spool than 450 and slower spool

LewisScoob

iTrader: (5)

MDX and MD321 are the same unit externally.

the SC42 will make those numbers. SC42+ is the current one on offer by SC. It’s a 450hp turbo really.

who told you the 42 wouldn’t make the numbers and based on what exactly?

adam.pah

have read the sc unit struggles to make 400 on pump fuel but that just with a google search. I don’t know anyone running one. So the mdx and Md321t are effectively the same??

adam.pah

hi Tidgy. I agree, its much better to have the faster spool on the road. Like I said, spool is more important than numbers but there is a balance. Im currently running over 410hp but it’s a bit laggy, would like the power without the lag..

joe v3sti

iTrader: (8)

I wouldn’t start messing around with methanol. Nasty stuff

LewisScoob

iTrader: (5)

What turbo are you making 410 on?

adam.pah

agreed. I have no interest in it. This is a road car primarily

adam.pah

APS SR 40. It’s a good turbo but a bit laggy. I could uprate it with a billet wheel but that’s £500 that could go towards a new turbo..

adam.pah

adam.pah

I am thinking of upping the boost on this one now the engine is forged, should make close to 450 as is, but the lag will still be there..

MattyB1983

iTrader: (51)

Why's that Joe ??? I've used it in previous cars with great results. Easy to use, cheap and sees a lovely jump in performance.. agreed, pretty nasty if you were to drink it but used properly it is great, in my experience.

joe v3sti

iTrader: (8)

Hi Matty, sorry if the way this is written is a bit all over the place, I’m just writing as I think and things occur to me, I’ve just finished work it’s been a long day.
Anything I’ve written is through my own experience, as I have used it and later moved on to proper MSA race fuels once I started doing msa events.

I don’t doubt it can yield a decent power hike for minimal money however there area fee draw backs.

Where do you get your methanol? Is it the standard commercial grade stuff that everyone uses such as Jennychem? I would strongly avoid that, I lost an engine due to a very poor batch from jennychem, a friend who I purchased it for in the same batch was a bit luckier and they managed to stop any damage as it was on the dyno. The car was extreme Detting, they drained the fuel, ran it up on pure pump fuel and it was fine.
commercial grade is crap, it’s for cleaning company’s, it’s not consistent.
the only methanol worth using is proper racing methanol from the likes of VP raving fuels. That’s £100 for 19L and then special delivery. commercial grade that everyone uses is 50L for £40 and some how ships with Royal Mail.
I re itterate, non racing methanol is not consistent enough.

As for methanol as chemical it’s horrible. Without going into too much detail.
Methanol burns with no visible coloured flame, do you really want 10/15/20/50L of that stuff in your garage for when you need top ups? The garage attached to the house in which your family sleeps.
In motorsport if a car contains any methanol, it must run a bright orange sticker to notify Marshall’s, plus they make you run an additive so that the flame is coloured and visible
its usually sold in cheapo plastic containers. Not proper sealed race fuel drums. The problem being, methanol absorbs water, so you average grade methanol isn’t getting any better when it’s left in an improper container for months on end. Open after you have dipped into it when needed.
Its corrosive, so eats away at your fuel lines and injectors. Race teams use PTFE lined fuel lines, as I did in my car.

It’s not just nasty of you ingest it. You mustn’t get it on your hands or skin, if you get it in your eyes then Jesus Christ your in trouble. It’ really is a very toxic chemical, google for further details.

i must stress, anyone re fuelling usuing methanol should have proper safety gear on, do not take it lightly. I’m taking gloves and goggles

im not convinced it has a place, particularly in road cars to gain an extra 30bhp. In some racing applications yes it does, it burns so much cooler, but they run it neat and with the proper precautions In a controlled environment.

Im not saying anyone should or shouldn’t run it, I’m just sharing my experience and that of some of the top Subaru’s in the country that friends own

joe v3sti

iTrader: (8)

Wow that reads horribly, punctuation is non existent. Sorry guys
bedtime

adam.pah

So what turbo would you buy with this budget......

Turbovin

iTrader: (2)

If it was a problem fitting the older version of the MD321T to your car I don't think the newer ones would be that much easier? It isn't that bad to fit but if you wan't something that's as bolt on as possible I think Blouch/Scoobyclinic would be the best choice. There's the Precision turbo as well but I think it has similar clearance issues around the bellhousing. So a SC42/SC46 or the equivalent Blouch turbo with the standard size inlet would be my choice.

RAGGY DOO

iTrader: (1)

I'm at 420 on a sc42 billet twin scroll on 95 octane
And 451 with 20 percent ethanol mix
Fuel flex and syvecs poor it into the tank and fill up
If I make a mess of the percentages and mix the ECU sorts it out
Idiot proof really
And the 42 makes that power at 1.7 bar on a 2litre

rickybobby

your dyno sheet shows you making peak boost at 4000 rpm and you think this is laggy?

Any bolt on thats 400bhp capable and delivers at 4k rpm is pretty impressive, especially on your displacement

Alby203

Sc46? Probably make 420-440 on pump fuel and is well within the safety parameters of your engine. Iv heard good stuff about them but never actually been in a car with one on. Your best best is find a turbo your interested in and see a dyno graph with one fitted and study the graph.. of course the more similar the cars mods to yours the better idea you’ll get of how yours should behave

adam.pah

On the road it’s not making peak boost till about 4600. It’s a good turbo once it comes in, but it is definitely laggy. Think I’ll need to go rotated to make serious improvements but wanted to gauge opinion

LewisScoob

iTrader: (5)

God no, you dont need to go rotated. Full boost at 4600rpm is very late.
How much boost are you running?
What fuel are you running?
Are you sure there are any leaks in the system?
What headers and uppipe are you running?

adam.pah

the SR40 is know for being a bit laggy. There are no leaks in the system.
I’m running 1.5 bar with a Harvey Smith up pipe and RCM UEL headers. Usually run on momentum 99 and occasionally V-power.
i spoke with my mechanic today and we’ve decided to fabricate a custom up pipe and down pipe to fit the MD321T that I have. That should make for a good improvement in spool and power so I’ll see how it feels. Next year I’ll probably look at changing it when finances aren’t so tight. I like the look of the Borgwarner efr range although can’t find much info of these being run on a scooby...

LewisScoob

iTrader: (5)

There are a few models of the "Harvey" uppipe maybe get in touch with Alyn at AS Performance and check you've the right one for your turbo?

If you're going to have your own uppipe fabricated, remember bigger isn't always better. Too large a bore here slows gas velocity and so the turbo spools up slower.

adam.pah

Thanks Lewis! I’ll give him a call 👍

Wurzel

iTrader: (1)

I have an SC42 on my 2015 JDM Spec C engine and it does't quite make 400ps.Dyno print says 395.2 ish

But I am not complaining.

720 injectors
Syvecs s6
2015 Spec C JDM engine
FMIC
Parallel Fuel rails
APS CAIK
3" H&S exhaust with 100 zell sports cat

and numerous other bits no bobs, car was built and mapped by Scoobyclinic.

SouthWalesSam

iTrader: (1)

I have an SC38 on my 2001 Bugeye 2.1 stroker engine and dyno print says 405 on V-Power. Torque reaches 300lbs.ft as low as 3,400rpm and tops 380lbs.ft.

I'm very happy.

2.1 forged stroker engine
Perrin CAIK and inlet pipe
Grimmspeed TMIC
ID1000 injectors
Harvey Smith Up-Pipe
3" Miltek exhaust with remote (centre pipe) sports cat
OEM EcuTek
Engine was built and mapped by Enginetuner.

I would have thought that an SC42 ought to make 420+ with only a couple of hundred rpm later on (even more) torque.

LewisScoob

iTrader: (5)

The SC42 should technically out spool the SC38 given the SC42 is ball bearing and the SC38 is a sleeve. My SC38 made 395hp on a 2.0 with K+N mafless intake, HDI front mount, 555cc nismos, FPR, and 2.5" decat.