Sorry guys I know this has been done so many times but what is the correct anti freeze.

Colours don't dictate what the anti freeze is because different manufactures will have the same additives but different colours.

Theres different ones with OATs and etholyneglycol then you add colour into the mix it gets so confusing. Does it matter if the block is forged or not.

So can one of you point me in the right direction lol.

 

Comma Xstream G30, pal.

 

I don't know if I'm over thinking this anti freeze thing. Tried it on the Halfords site because I know they sell the Comma stuff. Found the G30 but when I put my reg in says its not applicable.

On a different forum I'm sure I saw a post from Alyn saying the OAT stuff can cause issues. Any ideas @stockcar

This was after I posted on here.

Really confused. At this rate I run without coolant

 

I've used it in 3 Imprezas now - no issues to report. Also used it previously in my Supra.

The Comma website recommends G30 for a lot of Japanese cars + Lambos and Bentleys.

 

I just recently spent weeks researching this myself and it's a mine field of misdirection. The car is currently in the garage having a full service amongst other things and I went with the Comma Extreme G30.

To be honest, it was the best conclusion I could come to but still don't know for sure if its the right one. It just seemed to tick all the ingredients lists I was looking for so went for it...

 

The more you read, the more confused/indecivisive you'll become. A lot of scaremongering in the Subaru world - they're normal cars like any other, but we treat the engines as if they're aerospace technology (strut bar decal ). It's easier firing up and servicing an F1 engine than a Boxer flat 4

 

Thanks guys

Much appreciated

 

I'd say use Subaru coolant and you can't go wrong surely?

Just google Subaru coolant. It's ready mixed too.

 

As straight forward as that sounds lol

Did a Google search and it took me to Amazon. Shows up unavailable, reading comments it says check the part number because you think you're buying one version but get sent the long life version instead. Then on the forums it mentions they have all changed over to the long life instead. Further reading says depends on the block then even further reading says its fine. Then people mention colours, you can only use red or blue and then someone mentions how the formula is exactly the same but now the colour has changed.

I though forget this I'm just going to see what the good people of scoobynet use and be done with it. Spent too much looking at coolant

 

age & model might help.........but as a common "do it all" we would supply & use the Motul Inugel Optimal (Orange if it matters..........) that is a factory distilled / pre-mixed coolant so no need for anything else.........

 

@Scooby-doo97

Our boxers are aluminium , so OAT coolants that prevent metal-oxide layers building up on Aluminium surfaces will be best for the block/heads for a longer lifespan, service interval coolant replacement. Comma Extreme G30 is such a Organic Acid coolant.

Refer Car & Motorbike Coolant / Antifreeze Explained (opieoils.co.uk)

"Comma Xstream® G30® Ready Mixed is a Ethylene Glycol based engine coolant / anti-freeze with OAT (Organic Additive Technology) inhibitors."

 

So we are all in agreement Comma G30 from Halfords is the right stuff

Block is forged and I think the block that was used for the rebuild was from a RB5. Will this make a difference.

 

Not unless RB5s used yellow metals , and forged Piston and rods should never come into contact with your coolant only the oil does that (unless you blow a gasket)

Did you read the opie oils info link that I posted ?

Suggest you look at that first if you want a comprehensive background on OAT's
then you 'd see that there is no exclusive need to use Comma G30 from Halfords,

 

I did read it mate, I'm not even going to pretend I understand it lol

IAT or OAT can be used because the blocks are aluminium. However I don't know whats in there at the moment, assuming its OAT but will it need flushing with distilled water before the new stuff goes in.

Funny thing is opie oils doesn't recognise the reg and ecp & halfords both say no compatible antifreeze found. Stockcar asked model and age so included the information about it being a built motor just incase a built vs stock motor needed something different. Like I said I don't know anything about the subject and probably overthinking it.

 

Ok I'll roll over , go get your Halfords XstreamComma G30

Certainly while I was in Germany nobody knew who Halfords or Comma were but many know who the market leader BASF are
but for anyone who might want to save some cash other manufacturers organic acid technology coolant will no doubt be be fine.

Glysantin® G30® by BASF is approved by: Audi / Bentley / Bugatti / Lamborghini / Seat / Skoda / VW (TL774-D/F); DAF (MAT74002); Deutz (DQC CB-14); Jaguar ..
Xstream® G30® Antifreeze & Coolant Concentrate - Comma
www.commaoil.com › products › view

In the UK you can find a Porsche 911 approved coolant for less money

TRIPLE QX Red (Ready Mixed) Antifreeze/Coolant
5LtrProduct Code: 523770511

as at Dec 20 5ltr delivered for £16.49 by Eurocarparts

• Suitable for all engine types conforming to British Standards BS6580 (2010) and VW G-12/TL-774D & VW G-12+/TL-774F, MAN 248 & MAN 324, MB 325.3, Renault 41-01-002.

you will note that the approval overlaps both products for VW


Oh and another thing why would you want to flush with distilled water , the antfreeze is designed to mix 50/50 with the tap supply.

 

in general terms mixing a/freeze concentrate at 50/50 will decrease its COOLANT capability..........

 

True , but running it neat is not a good idea either.
Unless you do track days or run high numbers I wouldn't bother worrying about higher % race solutions too much,
just change it out every two years job done.

 

Couple of points; Don't mix "Approval" with "Meets or exceed specification of".... Triple QX will NOT be "Porsche approved". However it may "Meet" Porsche's specification (Which is probably the same as VW's G12++ or G13, but I digress). The former will have sample sent money paid to be tested, approved and endorsed. The latter won't. Not saying it's no good, just that there is a difference as such the price will reflect this.

Distilled vs Deionised vs Tap water. Probably down to your local water quality. If it's very hard, don't use it (the website for your water supplier should give you a hardness rating based on your postcode). The state of your kettle should be a clue. For what it's worth I've just checked a bottle of genuine VW (supplied by TPS) G13 concentrated coolant and it says to 'mix with distilled water only'. So I guess read the label or TDS. There is a lot of noise on the net about ions and pure water's tendancy to absorb them from materials its in contact with.

Earlier someone mentioned protecting Aluminum alloy blocks. Whilst important, aluminium generally gets the most damage from acid corrosion (old coolant) or micro-boiling. The coolant type here generally doesn't matter so long as it's not old and manky, there's enough of it and the cooling system isn't circulating air bubbles from a pin-hole leak or less than ideal water pump. More subaru engines suffer gasket failure and pitting of mating surfaces or gasket material failing. So this area is where we should be focusing the importance of the coolant used and it's condition (and why I did mine every 3yrs).


As I said in the other thread further down. Flush everything throughly. Pick your brand, and stick to it.

The Glysantin is fine...you won't find Comma overseas as it's a UK brand (once part of Exxon). Glysantin is marketed as BASF's own brand in the EU. G30 is silicate free OAT. Silicates offer a protection layer to form quickly upon first use as opposed to OATs which rely on the protection layer to build with time. If you want silicate use G40 which is a hybrid OAT. Old imprezas (GC8) never used OAT, in these cases G48 would probably be the closest; I'd probably use G40 which is a hybrid-OAT on GC8s and G30 on the newer stuff.

 

Don't roll over lol, I appreciate the input. The reason I was saying distilled water to flush it was to remove any traces of previous coolant. I don't know the different brands so I am going based on recommendations. Who uses what brand etc so I'm not relying on ECP, Halfords, Opie Oils etc when they all say cannot find reg or no coolant available.

 

Thanks mate I'll check them out too.

 

I was certainly not advocating running it neat........

A/freeze concentrate has NO cooling properties so over diluted is far better than running more neat fluid.........
the whole point is you should worry about over mixing as it will cause more cooling issues particularly on modified or track type use cars.........

different suppliers even use different quality of concentrate so simply stating a "50/50 mix" is misleading anyhows

 

I'm using the toyota pink, pre-mixed version.
Little pricey but suited to japanese cars and modern alloy engines. Pretty pink colour too .. . . seems fine so far.

Alternatively, the red is supposed to be good - but must be mixed with de-ionized water.

 

Yep , I am absolute fine with all of this comment , Its written better than mine. ( ALi-B )

What I am trying really to point out it that the regular exchange is more important than buying an expensive OAT that says its good for 5 years,
I see that as marketing ploy rather than a good idea, as some here know the chemistry degrades over time .
and of course the ready mix is preferable if you have doubts about your water hardness.

Writing from a German Rhein Main perspective the kettle fur was just not happening but I do remember while living in South Essex a a kid as having a lot of it on the Kettle element, so yes limescale as a dissolved solid is not just a PH issue but is strongly reactive with the chemical salts that are present in aluminium alloys. That said I doubt that after draining , flushing the system that the small remainder of Tap water even containing higher level of harder water has much effect as opposed to distilled water on 5ltr of new coolant that is loaded with Suficants to prevent it.

More probably any compatibility issue for a previous unknown fluid / its residues can be dealt with a full water flush and a refill and 2nd disposal of same intended new coolant, as chemical reactions (bonding and dissolving) are promoted by agitation and or heat it makes sense to run the system up to operating temperature to do this.

Understanding that protecting the engine, with a pricey OAT that claims it can last 5 or even 7 years is also doubtful, Id rather change every two or three years and spend a little less but perhaps using a bit more for an extra flush for piece of mind on any car with unknown coolant history. But this is perhaps an owner viewpoint and takes a lot more time than a workshop would want to spend on the activity.

From a economic point of view having worked as a QM at Tyco Bensheim I know Porsche have been "saddled" onto VW approvals but that said
at least from a Applicator / Matrice, cable lead / crimp / contact technology point of view I can underline VW approvals really are to be trusted.
It just happens to cost huge amounts of money , to keep suppliers and their execs running around to do it. ( we had 600 company cars just in Bensheim)
Which is why you wont see the Japanese using the VW approvals , typically Sumitomo / or Toyota will do their own thing, but won't bother looking for EU suppliers to OEM supply it for EU market. That leaves a sub culture of suppliers that may still have good VW / Daimler / BMW approved products selling materials under different names for Japanese cars. FORD and PSG , Renault tend to do there own thing as well. So its quiet possible to find excellent materials and especially consumables / lubricants / coolants for what is essentially from a alloy materials view point the same engine technology, that have been approved by a non Japanese Manufacturer.

Thanks for the input that I hope turned out to be a good thread / read