Quick help - temp gauge questio
24 January 2021 | 04:36 PM
#1
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From: Spain
Quick help - temp gauge questio
Just had my coolant fluid changed by a garage down as part of an ac repair.
When I was checking the ac system worked before leaving the garage I noticed that the 1st fan (the non ac fan) wasn't spinning up. I know it takes a while to get the car up to temp but it had been driven up the road and back.
what would cause this?
I understand it might just be an electrical gremlin but im more concerned about other issues such as the system not being bled properly.
Secondly, will the temperature gauge on the dash still work? It goes to middle but i don't want to cook the engine while I'm sat in the car looking at it to see if it rises.
When I was checking the ac system worked before leaving the garage I noticed that the 1st fan (the non ac fan) wasn't spinning up. I know it takes a while to get the car up to temp but it had been driven up the road and back.
what would cause this?
I understand it might just be an electrical gremlin but im more concerned about other issues such as the system not being bled properly.
Secondly, will the temperature gauge on the dash still work? It goes to middle but i don't want to cook the engine while I'm sat in the car looking at it to see if it rises.
24 January 2021 | 06:25 PM
#2
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my understanding one fan is for the ac one fan for engine cooling , the temp gauge is not accurate to actual temperature , it does not show it getting hotter as long as it’s where it should be tolerance wise , it just goes up when it’s starting to get too hot or is getting too hot , hope that makes sense , as it’s cold could be why the engine cooling fan has not come on , when engine is cold check pressured and other expansion tank for fluid levels , are you getting hot air blown into the car , just checking heater matrix has no air locks in it
24 January 2021 | 06:34 PM
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my understanding one fan is for the ac one fan for engine cooling , the temp gauge is not accurate to actual temperature , it does not show it getting hotter as long as it’s where it should be tolerance wise , it just goes up when it’s starting to get too hot or is getting too hot , hope that makes sense , as it’s cold could be why the engine cooling fan has not come on , when engine is cold check pressured and other expansion tank for fluid levels , are you getting hot air blown into the car , just checking heater matrix has no air locks in it
I query it because I had the engine running while I was looking to see if the ac fan or ac clutch would kick in, noticed it was starting to smell very warm but the coolant fan hadn't kicked in. I checked the temperature on the dash and it was still in the middle, although by now it was starting to smell hot.
Because the coolant has been changed I just want to make sure that the temp gauge will not stay in "nominal" while in fact the engine is starting to overheat due to a design quirk or airlock or something similar.
24 January 2021 | 08:01 PM
#5
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From: Herts
if it’s getting too hot as mine did some time ago temp gauge will go up , just check coolant levels when fully cold , the air will normally bleed itself to the top so you will know when you open the pressured expansion tank when the engine is fully cold then level should be ok , if it’s low just too it up , just drive sensibly till issue is resolved , the smell could be normal plus a bit of spilled coolant making you think somethings wrong when it’s not , only you know if it’s too hot , if there is air in it you will get bubbles going into the non pressurised expansion tank joined to the radiator
24 January 2021 | 08:45 PM
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I was a little worried about the filling process. I'm not a mechanic but from googling over the weekend I have been made aware.
I'm swinging by the garage tomorrow morning and will inform them of the filling procedure. Is there a good guide on here?
I will also check the heater temp is working and besr in mind the possible spilt coolant.
Edited to add: is this one correct?
I'm swinging by the garage tomorrow morning and will inform them of the filling procedure. Is there a good guide on here?
I will also check the heater temp is working and besr in mind the possible spilt coolant.
Edited to add: is this one correct?
Yes, drain from the rad drain plug, or remove bottom hose. Set heaters in car to hot while it drains, leave them there.
Inspect rad for the core turning to dust, if it's bad, replace it, internet ones are fine.
Use a decent quality anti-freeze, as at a motor factor for one suitable for an alloy engine and having anti-corrosion added. Dilution is usually 50/50.
Replace plug or bottom hose!!!
Remove the rearmost pipe from the metal header tank on top of thengine, remove the cap from said tank. Jam a funnel down that hose and fill SLOWLY via the funnel, do NOT allow it to gulp.
Watch for the header tank to fill, once it reaches the top, remove funnel and replace that pipe.
Now, with cap still off, start engine and allow to warm up until fan comes on. Watch for bubbles, top up or mop up as necessary.
Once fans start, switch off, replace cap, drive round block, leave to cool.
When cool, remove cap, check level, top up if necessary, replace cap, job's a good'un.
It takes a while, but bear in mind, THERE IS NO KNOWN WAY TO BLEED THE SYSTEM IF YOU AIRLOCK IT.
Inspect rad for the core turning to dust, if it's bad, replace it, internet ones are fine.
Use a decent quality anti-freeze, as at a motor factor for one suitable for an alloy engine and having anti-corrosion added. Dilution is usually 50/50.
Replace plug or bottom hose!!!
Remove the rearmost pipe from the metal header tank on top of thengine, remove the cap from said tank. Jam a funnel down that hose and fill SLOWLY via the funnel, do NOT allow it to gulp.
Watch for the header tank to fill, once it reaches the top, remove funnel and replace that pipe.
Now, with cap still off, start engine and allow to warm up until fan comes on. Watch for bubbles, top up or mop up as necessary.
Once fans start, switch off, replace cap, drive round block, leave to cool.
When cool, remove cap, check level, top up if necessary, replace cap, job's a good'un.
It takes a while, but bear in mind, THERE IS NO KNOWN WAY TO BLEED THE SYSTEM IF YOU AIRLOCK IT.
Last edited by Daniel1982; 24 January 2021 at 09:12 PM.
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25 January 2021 | 12:28 AM
#8
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From: Herts
a very simple way of filling up is , top up to near full on the pressure expansion tank , start car it will bubble in the pressure expansion tank , keep topping up the same expansion tank , when it stops bubbling it’s sorted , the bubbles can be very small ones , then take it for a drive let it fully cool down and re check both tanks , it’s always worked for me , it helps with the car on a nose up slight slope , don’t fill the expansion tank as the bubbles will push out coolant every where , when the bubbles stop in the tank then fill it and put the cap on , i sometimes slightly over fill the non pressured expansion tank so when you do check it when it’s cold the level tends to be more spot on
25 January 2021 | 10:55 AM
#9
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From: The hell where youth and laughter go
....Or just use Vacuum filler:
That's what a garage should use anyway. Never had a airlock using those on any car (used to change the antifreeze every 3yrs on my scoob). 2mins job done. Takes longer to connect it up and put it away again!
That's what a garage should use anyway. Never had a airlock using those on any car (used to change the antifreeze every 3yrs on my scoob). 2mins job done. Takes longer to connect it up and put it away again!
Last edited by ALi-B; 25 January 2021 at 10:56 AM.
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