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Been a while since last came on here, indeed I’ve not been using the car much at all lately, but wondered if anyone on here has any advice - as imagine a few have been down a similar road as these cars age....
I have a bug Sti which I’ve owned now for about 10years and no plans to get rid of it any time soon as the rest of the car is sound and I still have a lot of love for it...so I need to address an issue that’s been gradually getting worse over winter while it’s been parked up - rear arch rust (just driver side, other side is fine)
Any tips on how to get this repaired to a decent standard and not pay over the odds. Appreciate hard to make conclusions from photos. But any ideas on what I should be budgeting to get this sorted? Not particularly clued up so any questions I should be asking of a body shop to ensure a good quality job is done? Cheers
I'm guessing you being a long term owner and regular on here you must be already well aware that they rust from the inside out so this ain't just light surface rust... a full replacement of inner and outer arches is almost certainly required as well as possibly rear suspension mounts needing work... x2 as it's highly unlikely the passenger will be unaffected despite currently looking ok from the outside.
(Apologies if I'm just stating the bleedin' obvious!)
X2 with all the above! That area has a double skin and the true extent of the rust might not be evident from looking at the turrets from inside...you need to take the wheels off and take some pics/inspect the area right at the top of the wheel arches,.... Cross everything that it's not too bad... When I had mine done I had to remove the rear seats and interior before the welder would touch it...but it was an interesting exercise.
I have a bugeye aswell with less rust on the arch than yours. And mine had a hole each side top of arch, side closest too the arch. If you put your hand up there you will feel it.
There is a small chance you don't have this hole, if cars just been sitting and rusting. Have you got no garage for an STI?
As said going need arch cut out and welded, and inner arch doing aswell both sides. It's worth doing due to the price of these rising so much. Price depends on who does it and how well. If you want all rust completely cutting out and etc your looking at a big job depending how far it goes.
Can cost as little as £300 for the inner arches, but with outer arch aswell, thats going need cutting and new piece welded in. £500-£600 would be a good price. But prices can differ massively. Had quotes of a grand just for one outer arch and scratches on a door.
None of this would happen if only Subaru fitted inner wheel arch liners, but no!
It would also help if they even sprayed the entire wheel arch with stone chip! On mine the stone chip stopped 3" from the outside edge of the arch, corresponding to about the normal non-wide arch shell width, almost as though this was the same template they used for spraying as on the standard shell!
Been a while since last came on here, indeed I’ve not been using the car much at all lately, but wondered if anyone on here has any advice - as imagine a few have been down a similar road as these cars age....
I have a bug Sti which I’ve owned now for about 10years and no plans to get rid of it any time soon as the rest of the car is sound and I still have a lot of love for it...so I need to address an issue that’s been gradually getting worse over winter while it’s been parked up - rear arch rust (just driver side, other side is fine)
Any tips on how to get this repaired to a decent standard and not pay over the odds. Appreciate hard to make conclusions from photos. But any ideas on what I should be budgeting to get this sorted? Not particularly clued up so any questions I should be asking of a body shop to ensure a good quality job is done? Cheers
Mine is an 03 blob but the shell's the same and they're almost the same age, or at least close enough to make no difference! I'd suggest you have a good look around it if you can get it up on ramps - take the skirts off if you can as they hide all sorts of rot, particularly at the back. My rear turrets are absolutely fine, although a little scaley so they're next on the restoration list, hopefully yours will be too but your rear arches look worse than mine did.
Ultimately I can't help in terms of cost, partly because I've been DIY'ing it and partly because your arches are a lot worse than mine. The rear on these are definitely a mud trap, which doesn't help the common breach into the boot space which then lets moisture in to seep under the foam seam sealer which then rots out the joins down into the cavities behind the arches, obscured of course by the carpet. I don't know where you are but I'd hunt out places that have a good reputation for dealing with classics as what I've seen of most bodyshops is that they aren't willing to do the work necessary to get the rust out properly, rather get it looking good from the surface and send you on your way. There was another recent thread on here where someone had issues with surface rust coming back within months of work being done.
These are a few posts from a thread of mine over on Detailingworld which will maybe help you to get an idea of where the issues sit and what they're like once you start digging:
Cheers for the comments, yeah I've pulled the interior out today but it doesn't show a lot - as mentioned its pretty difficult to see anything. After taking off the boot liners and trying to peer down the side, it looks like there is some rust on the inside where the seams join together (following along the foam sealer stuff, which looks a bit like silicone but isn't) on the crease below the fuel filler cap pretty much exactly where it showing on the outside but other than that it doesn't look too horrendous. Don't really know where to start with properly examining it and evaluating what exactly needs to be done, I think I need to have a really good hunt around and find someone trustworthy who isn't going to do a half arsed job.
We moved house last year and I do have a double garage attached to the new place, but theres been absolutely no way of getting it in there to date as we are busy renovating and the space has been needed for all manner of other things. I should have started looking into addressing this sooner than I have but I've had way too much else on.
Perfectly prepared to spend the sorts of sums mentioned here for a decent fix (obviously coupled with shifting the car into the garage) I think the car certainly warrants that. However I'd be very hesitant to start throwing thousands at the car. I am not so sure that there is the value in it to make it worthwhile (its a lightly modded 52 plate uk sti, the rest of the bodywork pretty tidy. and its been looked after mechanically and its been faultless in the 10 years I've had it..... but at the same time it does have around 125k on the clock and worst came to the worst it would still be worth a reasonable amount in bits or to someone with the skills to fix = if it had to come to that in a few years time.
I had a decent garage do a full inspection on it a couple of years ago and they said underneath it is as clean as any they have seen that age but did warn me to watch the rear arches as they often go.
Going to have to do the rounds of various body shops in the area and try and find someone who gives me some confidence and isn't going to charge an arm and a leg. I'm not particuarly hands on when it comes to cars so I appreciate comments/advice. If anyone knows of someone decent in the south west do let me know. Cheers
Cheers for the comments, yeah I've pulled the interior out today but it doesn't show a lot - as mentioned its pretty difficult to see anything. After taking off the boot liners and trying to peer down the side, it looks like there is some rust on the inside where the seams join together (following along the foam sealer stuff, which looks a bit like silicone but isn't) on the crease below the fuel filler cap pretty much exactly where it showing on the outside but other than that it doesn't look too horrendous. Don't really know where to start with properly examining it and evaluating what exactly needs to be done, I think I need to have a really good hunt around and find someone trustworthy who isn't going to do a half arsed job.
The seam sealer is useless when it becomes breached from within as it's porous. The stuff I pulled out was all damp which just trapped the moisture against the untreated metal (it appears they dipped the shell for the anti-corrosion treatment post seam sealing). If you've got signs of rust in there then it would suggest that there's a hole of an undetermined size between the outer shell, inner wheel arch skin and boot skin which is allowing water through. This is the same overall bit that will be causing the visible rust on your outer wing. If you poke about with your finger there'll be a lot of crap stuck up in that bit which stays damp and helps the rot spread.
All that aside, it's a common problem and completely fixable, and if you're happy with keeping the car and can keep it garaged post-repair then it's going to be worth spending the money. If you're able to drive it then another option may be using some of the established Subaru people like Scoobyclinic etc. It's more awkward but you are going to be getting someone who is very used to eating with these cars.
You should able to get it done for a good price, as said depends how far you want to go. It should just be outer arches and holes at top near strut turrents. Should be able to get it done under grand.
Originally Posted by amv#01
Cheers for the comments, yeah I've pulled the interior out today but it doesn't show a lot - as mentioned its pretty difficult to see anything. After taking off the boot liners and trying to peer down the side, it looks like there is some rust on the inside where the seams join together (following along the foam sealer stuff, which looks a bit like silicone but isn't) on the crease below the fuel filler cap pretty much exactly where it showing on the outside but other than that it doesn't look too horrendous. Don't really know where to start with properly examining it and evaluating what exactly needs to be done, I think I need to have a really good hunt around and find someone trustworthy who isn't going to do a half arsed job.
We moved house last year and I do have a double garage attached to the new place, but theres been absolutely no way of getting it in there to date as we are busy renovating and the space has been needed for all manner of other things. I should have started looking into addressing this sooner than I have but I've had way too much else on.
Perfectly prepared to spend the sorts of sums mentioned here for a decent fix (obviously coupled with shifting the car into the garage) I think the car certainly warrants that. However I'd be very hesitant to start throwing thousands at the car. I am not so sure that there is the value in it to make it worthwhile (its a lightly modded 52 plate uk sti, the rest of the bodywork pretty tidy. and its been looked after mechanically and its been faultless in the 10 years I've had it..... but at the same time it does have around 125k on the clock and worst came to the worst it would still be worth a reasonable amount in bits or to someone with the skills to fix = if it had to come to that in a few years time.
I had a decent garage do a full inspection on it a couple of years ago and they said underneath it is as clean as any they have seen that age but did warn me to watch the rear arches as they often go.
Going to have to do the rounds of various body shops in the area and try and find someone who gives me some confidence and isn't going to charge an arm and a leg. I'm not particuarly hands on when it comes to cars so I appreciate comments/advice. If anyone knows of someone decent in the south west do let me know. Cheers
So. A bit of an update on this and its not a good one.
I had this in for the arch to be cut out and replaced, however in the middle of the job I got the news that there is much more rust than anticipated.
I've been in to see it up on the ramp. It seems the rust has crept up the inner arch as well as the outer.
In addition, the cills are corroded at the rear ends.
In addition there are holes at the top of the strut towers into the wheel arch.
In addition - it is both sides, not the one.
I'm sure that this is a familiar story to some....
Obviously this is not what I wanted to hear as I anticipated that it was just the one rear arch. I'm now looking at a 3x larger bill - of a touch under 3k including paint.
They say it is a lot of work and will need the car for a few weeks. This would leave me with repaired and treated strut towers, cills and rear arches.
It feels very expensive, but I know this kind of work done to a high standard does cost. It is from a reputable garage/bodyshop/motorsport specialist with a good track record of this kind of work on this kind of car, they seem like decent honest guys and I've seen examples of their work.
My alternative is to call it a day with the car and get what i can for it in parts or as a restoration project for someone else. Its a tough one as its a hefty bill if I opt to go for it. Its a car I am quite attached to, and the work done to a high standard should really reinforce its future value / ensure a good few years more enjoyment - I guess.
However although it is a newage sti - it is a uk bug, so perhaps not a highly desirable one (or with low miles). I've had a very cost effective and trouble free ride with it to date, (over 10 years of ownership). So it is a tough call as to whether to stump up or throw in the towel.
Any thoughts/opinions welcome. (equally thoughts on price given for the work)
looks like rust is everywhere( under front and rear bumpers,front arches,subframes hubs etc.) on Your car not only rear arches,sell parts and buy fresh import
The bumpers have been stripped. They are fine. The front of the car is fine. As is the subframe. The car is pretty clean underneath on the whole.
It is limited to the areas I have described. I have asked the garage to make sure of this and have seen with my own eyes also. As yes obviously if it was a complete rust bucket there would be no decision to make on this
I wonder if the garage could advise you on what (if anything) you could do yourself to keep the cost down?
Perhaps if you carry out some of the prep that doesn't require specialist equipment this would bring the total down to more manageable numbers.
I would weigh up what you have already put into it before making any harsh decisions. For example if you had recently refurbished other parts like brakes, suspension, engine, turbo, radiator, hoses etc or if these components are very well maintained mileage means very little.
If not then expect to add these on top of the quoted price over the coming years...
I would also be considering what your future plans are with it, if the plan is to one day go for a better spec with forged build etc then take this opportunity to restore and upgrade everything else before you go down this route so you end up with a futureproofed and well sorted car.
I personally think the bug is going through a revival at the moment, they are ageing very well and because they were changing hands for less money when they were less desirable the good ones definitely seem to stand out nowadays (especially a genuine STI)
As for selling and buying an import - I have seen plenty of imports that are clean as a whistle when shipped over and within a couple of years suffering similar fates with surface rust (albeit not as deep seeded) - there are too many factors to assume that an import will be "safe" for many years...
When it comes to body work, prices are all over the place and its not as easy as saying you get what you pay for up to a certain point. I've personally seen to very good jobs where the prices were miles apart. Paint has gone up massively in price, paint I could buy pre covid is now 3 or 4x the price.
It might be worth renegotiating the price because if they have already started it might be hard to take the car and get someone else to finish it off. Although what you have described should have been apparent prior to them starting. Admittedly not the complete picture but a very good idea non the less.
I think in terms of what needs done, £3k including paint seems quite reasonable if they're a decent place with a good reputation. It's not the material cost which does it but the labour, and with complex shapes and panels like you have in modern cars you end up with lots of shaping to be done. The good news is that it's these areas you've got the rust that are the main problem, the front and centre are usually pretty solid, so if you get this work done then the car should last for a long time yet. Given how few STI Bugs are left, and how many have been shamelessly ripped apart for parts despite being perfectly saveable, I reckon you should dig deep and get it sorted. The price of these things is only going up so as long as you keep it well maintained I doubt you'll lose money on it overall. As it is if you sold it then it would likely end up in bits before the end of the week and there would be another less on the road. I totally get budget, and I totally get you want to repair it so this isn't aimed at you at all, but there are way too many people in this world who all too readily scrap or throw out stuff that just needs a little TLC. £3k over 10+ years works out at £300 a year which is less than some people pay to finance an Astra for a month. Equally, if you were to just take out a 0% CC and spread it out over 18 months that would also make the cost less of a kick in one go!
I wonder if the garage could advise you on what (if anything) you could do yourself to keep the cost down?
Perhaps if you carry out some of the prep that doesn't require specialist equipment this would bring the total down to more manageable numbers.
I would weigh up what you have already put into it before making any harsh decisions. For example if you had recently refurbished other parts like brakes, suspension, engine, turbo, radiator, hoses etc or if these components are very well maintained mileage means very little.
If not then expect to add these on top of the quoted price over the coming years...
I would also be considering what your future plans are with it, if the plan is to one day go for a better spec with forged build etc then take this opportunity to restore and upgrade everything else before you go down this route so you end up with a futureproofed and well sorted car.
I personally think the bug is going through a revival at the moment, they are ageing very well and because they were changing hands for less money when they were less desirable the good ones definitely seem to stand out nowadays (especially a genuine STI)
As for selling and buying an import - I have seen plenty of imports that are clean as a whistle when shipped over and within a couple of years suffering similar fates with surface rust (albeit not as deep seeded) - there are too many factors to assume that an import will be "safe" for many years...
Unfortunately I don't have the know how or the time to take on any of the work myself.
Its generally been a pretty well looked after car....well aside from letting the arch rust take its hold . It was absolutely standard when I picked it up 10 years ago (for an excelent price, even at the time)
Oil and fluid changes yearly and on schedule, belts etc. I wouldn't say I've poured money into it and it certainly isn't mint, theres few dints and scratches - but I've spent what I've needed to and improved it to a degree - Upgraded hoses, brake lines, full exhaust, fuel pump, full poly bushes, suspension, remap, newish radiator, 2 sets of wheels, prodrive spoiler etc.
This is definately a bit of a crossroads. I think if I stump up for this then I've perhaps got to be prepared to give it whatever it needs for a good few years and bring it up from a decent example to an excellent one. Keep it garaged over winter, if the engine lets go it gets a good spec rebuild etc etc. I'm open to this (providing it makes remote financial sense) - as the only other car I think I would get rid of this for (and do have my eye on for a 'one day' purchase - would be a v6 exige, but the price gap is significant and that is beyond my reach for at least a few years.
No I wouldn't sell up and buy an import, thats not an option. This one is a known entity and its done me well. By the time I've dropped probably 10k getting rid of this and into a marginally newer, cleaner import like you say I can end up in a similar situation or worse. I think the comment recommending this, with all respect - possibly got the wrong end of the stick as my car is not totally covered in rust.
Recently picked up a 2 year old octavia VRS (dsg) as a main family car, which don't get me wrong is great in its own easy way but like many modern cars is so sterile that it makes me appreciate mine even more.
When it comes to body work, prices are all over the place and its not as easy as saying you get what you pay for up to a certain point. I've personally seen to very good jobs where the prices were miles apart. Paint has gone up massively in price, paint I could buy pre covid is now 3 or 4x the price.
It might be worth renegotiating the price because if they have already started it might be hard to take the car and get someone else to finish it off. Although what you have described should have been apparent prior to them starting. Admittedly not the complete picture but a very good idea non the less.
I'm not sure there is much room for negotiation, theres already been a little to get it to this figure. Yes its tricky to now take it elsewhere for more estimates (although not impossible), however I think there are probably only a handful of places around, especially near-ish in location to me that could be trusted to take on this sort of job.
I think in terms of what needs done, £3k including paint seems quite reasonable if they're a decent place with a good reputation. It's not the material cost which does it but the labour, and with complex shapes and panels like you have in modern cars you end up with lots of shaping to be done. The good news is that it's these areas you've got the rust that are the main problem, the front and centre are usually pretty solid, so if you get this work done then the car should last for a long time yet. Given how few STI Bugs are left, and how many have been shamelessly ripped apart for parts despite being perfectly saveable, I reckon you should dig deep and get it sorted. The price of these things is only going up so as long as you keep it well maintained I doubt you'll lose money on it overall. As it is if you sold it then it would likely end up in bits before the end of the week and there would be another less on the road. I totally get budget, and I totally get you want to repair it so this isn't aimed at you at all, but there are way too many people in this world who all too readily scrap or throw out stuff that just needs a little TLC. £3k over 10+ years works out at £300 a year which is less than some people pay to finance an Astra for a month. Equally, if you were to just take out a 0% CC and spread it out over 18 months that would also make the cost less of a kick in one go!
Ok thanks for your view, bit of reassurance - as its hard to guage what is a 'fair' price for this kind of thing. I was having some doubts as with a bit of research I'd seen a few figures banded around lower than this for this kind of work. I don't doubt there is some graft and skill involved though and under no iillusions it can be done (properly, with rust removed rather than covered up) for a massive amount less. Yes after 10 years with the car it would hurt a bit to see it broken for parts. I'm 60/40 towards getting it done - but on a car which (at the moment, from what I can guess) is probably worth 7-8k maybe (and thats with the rust repaired) - its a tougher call than if it were a p1, widetrack blob etc.
I agree with @ST-X and think you should save it - you sound like you're already tipping this way.
Seems like you have already been spending money in the right places to build this up into a nicely specced motor and if you think you will hold onto it for many years to come then this will give you the time to save up for the eventual engine rebuild costs if the time comes. So you should end up with a very well sorted car overall.
It may not fetch the same as a P1, Spec C etc. but as @ST-X said already, I can't see you losing money on it.
Anyway, having a well sorted car that isn't worth £20K/£30K plus means the everyday man can actually enjoy driving it without the fear of a stone chip...
Ok thanks for your view, bit of reassurance - as its hard to guage what is a 'fair' price for this kind of thing. I was having some doubts as with a bit of research I'd seen a few figures banded around lower than this for this kind of work. I don't doubt there is some graft and skill involved though and under no iillusions it can be done (properly, with rust removed rather than covered up) for a massive amount less. Yes after 10 years with the car it would hurt a bit to see it broken for parts. I'm 60/40 towards getting it done - but on a car which (at the moment, from what I can guess) is probably worth 7-8k maybe (and thats with the rust repaired) - its a tougher call than if it were a p1, widetrack blob etc.
I guess the question is whether you envy driving it, and if you would replace it with something else should you decide to chop it in. I briefly contemplated selling mine and buying a Spec C import but came to the conclusion that I don't drive it enough to warrant spending the extra, and that my car overall is in much better condition despite the rust bits that do still need sorted because I have maintained the car myself regardless of cost over the last eight years I've had it. Newer cars are bigger, and with another older car you're taking on someone else's basket case (not always) that they've become fed up of fixing. Other than another Impreza I couldn't find anything that was practical short of £40k that touched on the fun of the Impreza, but then you end up not enjoying the £40k car as much as it's a much bigger and more expensive thing to bend! I think the Impreza is one of the few last every day performance cars that can truly be enjoyed on twisty country roads, and as time goes on and more get crashed and crushed we'll see the value in them go up significantly from where they are now. Just look at things like the Clio 172 which you could get for less than £1k a number of years ago. Now look at the price of them!
In terms of of cost you can always get stuff done cheaply, but decent isn't the same thing (albeit someone always has a story of how someone did a great job for next to nothing for them to make you feel like you overpaid). As an example I'm having a panel repainted on my 335 which some kind **** keyed just two weeks after a full respray and the discounted price was £500. This is MD bodyshop prices but good paint isn't cheap unfortunately; apparently the cost of lacquer has gone up four fold in twelve months. I think that if you like the car and it's got sentimental value to you, then spending the money certainly isn't akin to pissing it away. If you do come to sell in the future then having had the work done well (and documented preferably) will net you a much better price than 'needs some welding' because most people now realise that 'some welding' inevitably means 'lots of welding' on these cars such is the way they're designed.
I'm not sure there is much room for negotiation, theres already been a little to get it to this figure. Yes its tricky to now take it elsewhere for more estimates (although not impossible), however I think there are probably only a handful of places around, especially near-ish in location to me that could be trusted to take on this sort of job.
Just thought it should be mentioned mate, its often overlooked and when I'm getting work done I need to remind myself too
Originally Posted by ST-X
I guess the question is whether you envy driving it, and if you would replace it with something else should you decide to chop it in. I briefly contemplated selling mine and buying a Spec C import but came to the conclusion that I don't drive it enough to warrant spending the extra, and that my car overall is in much better condition despite the rust bits that do still need sorted because I have maintained the car myself regardless of cost over the last eight years I've had it. Newer cars are bigger, and with another older car you're taking on someone else's basket case (not always) that they've become fed up of fixing. Other than another Impreza I couldn't find anything that was practical short of £40k that touched on the fun of the Impreza, but then you end up not enjoying the £40k car as much as it's a much bigger and more expensive thing to bend! I think the Impreza is one of the few last every day performance cars that can truly be enjoyed on twisty country roads, and as time goes on and more get crashed and crushed we'll see the value in them go up significantly from where they are now. Just look at things like the Clio 172 which you could get for less than £1k a number of years ago. Now look at the price of them!
In terms of of cost you can always get stuff done cheaply, but decent isn't the same thing (albeit someone always has a story of how someone did a great job for next to nothing for them to make you feel like you overpaid). As an example I'm having a panel repainted on my 335 which some kind **** keyed just two weeks after a full respray and the discounted price was £500. This is MD bodyshop prices but good paint isn't cheap unfortunately; apparently the cost of lacquer has gone up four fold in twelve months. I think that if you like the car and it's got sentimental value to you, then spending the money certainly isn't akin to pissing it away. If you do come to sell in the future then having had the work done well (and documented preferably) will net you a much better price than 'needs some welding' because most people now realise that 'some welding' inevitably means 'lots of welding' on these cars such is the way they're designed.
Add on to this and what I previously said earlier for others. A lot of bodyshops are backed up with work. Some will give you a fair price others will give you a massive inflated price. They get the work and they've made even more money, they don't get the work well they are already booked so doesn't matter. This isn't always the case but something to be wary of. When I mentioned two different prices that didn't include the "got a whole respray and a full interior change for £50" I try not to entertain those lol.
Trust is a big thing too, sometimes it is worth paying that much extra to a garage you know. Far too many factors involved.
You've noticed the price hike too. Shame about the keyed panal.
You're going through my fear which is why I bought a JDM Bugeye STI and I've had it undersealed. It's not my only car so although it's not garaged it won't be driven on salted roads; I'm hoping that will help it last. I may invest in a car cover for the winter however these have their draw backs too and can accelerate rust because they're potentially just moisture traps that sand paper the paintwork in the wind. Humidity is something you will need to watch for in your garage because that'll potentially be far worse than just sitting the car outside where it can at least breathe and dry off between rain showers; I've seen plenty of people make the mistake of putting a good car in a damp garage. Prevention is definitely better than cure, if you can keep it away from the salt the repairs will last much longer but if you drive on the salted roads it will eventually go again. I'd also consider getting it undersealed properly once it's fixed.
The hardest part is finding a good body shop who will do a quality job. If they're good enough to genuinely fix the problem then it'll be much less hassle and cost than getting it done twice. In my experience with past cars I'm more than happy to pay what the good people charge to avoid the cowboys and the added cost and hassle that comes with a cheap job.
Bugeye's aren't going to go down in price and they're rarer than the blob and hawk eyes, granted the market is limited because some people don't like the shape but there seems to be a growing number of people who think the styling has aged well. It's also an STI rather than a WRX which holds more value. If you plan on keeping the car for a number of years I'd anticipate the prices will go up to cover the cost of the work, I wouldn't expect a £3k price rise to happen in anything less than 3 years, I think it'll be more the 3-5 year time frame.
Good luck with the decision, it'd be nice to see one being saved.
Thanks all for the interesting comments and helpful advice
This forum has been great for me over the years, a shame theres not as much activity on here as there used to be.
It stings but after getting as much confidence as I can that the job will be done right, I've decided to go for it and it will be saved. Fingers crossed.
14 March 2021 | 03:17 AM
Bug sti rear arch rust
. It was absolutely standard when I picked it up 10 years ago (for an excelent price, even at the time)
