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Anyone running a 2.5 L WRX Hawkeye (EJ255) please give this post a quick read.

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Old 19 September 2021 | 06:40 PM
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Paulgeorge01
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Default Anyone running a 2.5 L WRX Hawkeye (EJ255) please give this post a quick read.

Hi All,

Thank you in advance for any replies.

I realise what I am asking is a bit of a faff, but any help would be greatly appreciated indeed. It would literally take a few minutes to carry out this check.

I have an ongoing electrical problem with my 56 plate 2.5 WRX Hawkeye (EJ255) wagon. The car has been out of action now for 4 weeks, being it is my daily driver the better half is just about divorcing me for stealing her car all the time. I have been troubleshooting this problem with the very kind help of ALi-B and Don Clark – thank you guys. I have reached a stage now where it would be very helpful to find someone with the exact same running car.

The BIG QUESTION: To find out if the live/signal wire on the Crankshaft position sensor connector should have voltage present with the ignition on, or not as the case maybe? Note: Whether you are running a 2.5 L Hawkeye wagon or a saloon I am 99.9% sure the wiring on the CPS will be the same.

In the event I am lucky enough to get a reply. You will probably know where the sensor is located, but for those who don’t. The crankshaft position sensor is located behind the Harmonic balancing pulley, directly above the crankshaft. Underneath the alternator. Directly behind the power steering - alternator, and air conditioning serpentine belts. The sensor connector is a 2 wire connector, and is light Grey in colour. It is a little bit fiddly to get off due to its location, but very easy to refit. To remove it – check for voltage – refit it – should literally take a few minutes – that easy, and oh so greatly appreciated the hours it will save. Refer to pictures for location. My pictures look slightly different as I have the auxiliary belts, harmonic balancing pulley and timing belt removed. I was checking the crankshaft pulley woodruff key wasn’t broken – Thanks to Ali-B for that tip too. Turned out this was ok.

To remove the sensor I personally use 2 screwdrivers – makes it really easy to remove. I just lightly push down on the back of the connector locking tab to release it with the first screwdriver. Then place the flat blade of the second screwdriver between the sensor and the connector, and simply rotate it just enough to start the connector moving and no more. Then simply remove it by hand. Then refit it by pushing it back on by hand.

The live/signal wire should be White in colour. This is the wire I would like checked for voltage.

The ground wire should also be White but has an added Red stripe.

Just in case you are unfamiliar with checking voltage.

Black test lead should be installed on the Com port on the meter.

Red test lead should be installed on the VΩmA port on the meter.

With the ignition on – With meter set to DC volts – Ground the black lead to the battery negative post – With the Crankshaft position sensor connector removed and turned upsides down, place the pin of the red test lead into the female white wire connector – check for voltage. My car is showing 1.35 volts, and I think it should be 0 volts. I think this is the reason my car is not running. If you are still unsure of the process, please give a call anytime on 07788 790598 and we can go through it on the phone.

Note: Red herring which would provide an incorrect test. Make sure the immobiliser is disabled when carrying out the test. Watch if you wait for some extended time lapse prior to checking for voltage, the immobiliser may kick in again, you may have to push the button on the key again with the key in the ignition. Failure to do so would mess up the test i.e. immobiliser could be cutting the power. I need the ignition to be definitely on for this test. Again with the ignition 100% on is there 0 volts or, voltage present on the CPS white live/signal wire.

Much appreciated.

Sincerely Paul.







Old 26 September 2021 | 02:33 PM
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