Boot Seal
#1
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Hi all,
2007 STi.
Fairly serious moisture and water ingress in my boot, found the issue, it's the boot seal.
Will order one from ICP, but, when I lift up my old seal, on the pinch seam there seems to be some sort of sealer on there, a bit like tyre bead sealant or silicone layered thinly.
Do I need to get some of this sealant, or can I just simply fit my new seal?
2007 STi.
Fairly serious moisture and water ingress in my boot, found the issue, it's the boot seal.
Will order one from ICP, but, when I lift up my old seal, on the pinch seam there seems to be some sort of sealer on there, a bit like tyre bead sealant or silicone layered thinly.
Do I need to get some of this sealant, or can I just simply fit my new seal?
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#3
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It sounds like someone has tried to seal it previously as a temporary fix. Take it off, clean it up, you may want to apply a small amount of sealant to the bodywork to help but it’s relatively quick and easy to do.
I found one corner of mine wouldn’t sit in place and kept popping off so I took the time to get it sat right then just left the boot shut for a week to hold it in place and it’s been fine since. I found opening it even after 24 hours the seal would still slowly lift off hence the week with the lid shut.
I found one corner of mine wouldn’t sit in place and kept popping off so I took the time to get it sat right then just left the boot shut for a week to hold it in place and it’s been fine since. I found opening it even after 24 hours the seal would still slowly lift off hence the week with the lid shut.
#6
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Yes it's stretchy stuff whatever it is, I will clean the seam etc, then IPA wipe it. May smear some silicone around, thin layer, can't do any harm I guess.
It's the top left and right corners where the water gets in. Then drips onto the boot carpet from the hinge brackets. The chipboard spare wheel cover has bowed downwards, but I'm drying it out and trying to flatten it, no biggie there really. The worst was the condensation inside of the NSR quarter. Dried it all with cloths and left a heater fan in there for an hour or so. Just a lot of condensation rather than puddles of water. The quarters have tons of sealant, and are well primed, no rust anywhere which was good to see.
My rear screen kept misting up, badly towards the bottom. It was all the moisture trying to escape through the parcel shelf vents.
Can't see any rust damage, under the seal I've seen a few spots which I will address before new seal goes on.
The seal was £50 posted from ICP which I didn't think was too bad, I expected Jap tax to make it nearer £80 lol
It's the top left and right corners where the water gets in. Then drips onto the boot carpet from the hinge brackets. The chipboard spare wheel cover has bowed downwards, but I'm drying it out and trying to flatten it, no biggie there really. The worst was the condensation inside of the NSR quarter. Dried it all with cloths and left a heater fan in there for an hour or so. Just a lot of condensation rather than puddles of water. The quarters have tons of sealant, and are well primed, no rust anywhere which was good to see.
My rear screen kept misting up, badly towards the bottom. It was all the moisture trying to escape through the parcel shelf vents.
Can't see any rust damage, under the seal I've seen a few spots which I will address before new seal goes on.
The seal was £50 posted from ICP which I didn't think was too bad, I expected Jap tax to make it nearer £80 lol
#7
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Boot seal arrived today. Took off old seal to find 12-15 rust spots, nothing major but wanted to address them. Worse on the bottom of the pinch seam above rear bumper. Sticky stuff remover to remove all traces of the old sealant. And a thorough deep clean.
Ground the rust bubbles away with a cone stone on a cordless drill. Sanded etc. IPA panel wiped.
Pinch seam treatment :
Bilt Hamber Atom Mac - let dry.
Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 - two coats drying in between coats.
Isopon all purpose primer, aerosol but I painted it on with a small brush - two coats drying in between coats.
Finally a generous layer of clear lacquer brushed on. Hair dryer helped today.
IPA panel wiped the whole pinch seam again - spotless.
I fitted the new seal loosely to get it in the right position, there is a moulded seam at the bottom in the middle which gave me a starting point. I thought it would be slightly shaped, but it's just a hoop.
I was pleased to see that when I lifted the new seal in one area, I saw the black stringy sealant already in the groove of the seal from the factory - happy days, far less messy than trying to use silicone sealer from a tube.
Fingers crossed it sorts it.
Ground the rust bubbles away with a cone stone on a cordless drill. Sanded etc. IPA panel wiped.
Pinch seam treatment :
Bilt Hamber Atom Mac - let dry.
Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 - two coats drying in between coats.
Isopon all purpose primer, aerosol but I painted it on with a small brush - two coats drying in between coats.
Finally a generous layer of clear lacquer brushed on. Hair dryer helped today.
IPA panel wiped the whole pinch seam again - spotless.
I fitted the new seal loosely to get it in the right position, there is a moulded seam at the bottom in the middle which gave me a starting point. I thought it would be slightly shaped, but it's just a hoop.
I was pleased to see that when I lifted the new seal in one area, I saw the black stringy sealant already in the groove of the seal from the factory - happy days, far less messy than trying to use silicone sealer from a tube.
Fingers crossed it sorts it.
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#9
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It took several hours all the prep, but hopefully time well spent, the final job took all of 5 minutes.
I guess my rust repairs weren't the prettiest, but thorough and hidden.
On mine the water was actually going under the seal, over the pinch seam and into the boot - rather than breaching over the top of the seal. The boot also feels a tighter fit when closed, and the release lever now has a bit more resistance.
I have to wonder if I myself had caused this seal to fail. I have a pretty powerful Kranzle K10 122 TS machine - and a monster of a machine it is too, very barbaric lol.
Maybe at times I've gone in too close and the bottom of the rear screen and the boot grooves as snow foam likes to live there, and I've pushed all kinds of dirt under and into the seal...10 litres of water per minute at 122 bar is quite a thing!..ah well, I will keep the water at a safer distance now.
The spare wheel cover has dried pretty flat so I'm happy to re-use that, and the carpet doesn't smell. Will put everything back in once I'm happy the leaks are sorted.
I guess my rust repairs weren't the prettiest, but thorough and hidden.
On mine the water was actually going under the seal, over the pinch seam and into the boot - rather than breaching over the top of the seal. The boot also feels a tighter fit when closed, and the release lever now has a bit more resistance.
I have to wonder if I myself had caused this seal to fail. I have a pretty powerful Kranzle K10 122 TS machine - and a monster of a machine it is too, very barbaric lol.
Maybe at times I've gone in too close and the bottom of the rear screen and the boot grooves as snow foam likes to live there, and I've pushed all kinds of dirt under and into the seal...10 litres of water per minute at 122 bar is quite a thing!..ah well, I will keep the water at a safer distance now.
The spare wheel cover has dried pretty flat so I'm happy to re-use that, and the carpet doesn't smell. Will put everything back in once I'm happy the leaks are sorted.
#10
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It took several hours all the prep, but hopefully time well spent, the final job took all of 5 minutes.
I guess my rust repairs weren't the prettiest, but thorough and hidden.
On mine the water was actually going under the seal, over the pinch seam and into the boot - rather than breaching over the top of the seal. The boot also feels a tighter fit when closed, and the release lever now has a bit more resistance.
I have to wonder if I myself had caused this seal to fail. I have a pretty powerful Kranzle K10 122 TS machine - and a monster of a machine it is too, very barbaric lol.
Maybe at times I've gone in too close and the bottom of the rear screen and the boot grooves as snow foam likes to live there, and I've pushed all kinds of dirt under and into the seal...10 litres of water per minute at 122 bar is quite a thing!..ah well, I will keep the water at a safer distance now.
The spare wheel cover has dried pretty flat so I'm happy to re-use that, and the carpet doesn't smell. Will put everything back in once I'm happy the leaks are sorted.
I guess my rust repairs weren't the prettiest, but thorough and hidden.
On mine the water was actually going under the seal, over the pinch seam and into the boot - rather than breaching over the top of the seal. The boot also feels a tighter fit when closed, and the release lever now has a bit more resistance.
I have to wonder if I myself had caused this seal to fail. I have a pretty powerful Kranzle K10 122 TS machine - and a monster of a machine it is too, very barbaric lol.
Maybe at times I've gone in too close and the bottom of the rear screen and the boot grooves as snow foam likes to live there, and I've pushed all kinds of dirt under and into the seal...10 litres of water per minute at 122 bar is quite a thing!..ah well, I will keep the water at a safer distance now.
The spare wheel cover has dried pretty flat so I'm happy to re-use that, and the carpet doesn't smell. Will put everything back in once I'm happy the leaks are sorted.
#11
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Bootlid on.
I did put a post up a while ago thinking it would have to come off, but the seal fits around the boot and down onto the pinch seam. Mine is STi Spec D so only WRX spoiler, but even an STi spoiler shouldn't get in the way of pulling the seal over.
I haven't had the bottle to water test it yet, and no rain yet either lol
I did put a post up a while ago thinking it would have to come off, but the seal fits around the boot and down onto the pinch seam. Mine is STi Spec D so only WRX spoiler, but even an STi spoiler shouldn't get in the way of pulling the seal over.
I haven't had the bottle to water test it yet, and no rain yet either lol
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#12
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It took several hours all the prep, but hopefully time well spent, the final job took all of 5 minutes.
I guess my rust repairs weren't the prettiest, but thorough and hidden.
On mine the water was actually going under the seal, over the pinch seam and into the boot - rather than breaching over the top of the seal. The boot also feels a tighter fit when closed, and the release lever now has a bit more resistance.
I have to wonder if I myself had caused this seal to fail. I have a pretty powerful Kranzle K10 122 TS machine - and a monster of a machine it is too, very barbaric lol.
Maybe at times I've gone in too close and the bottom of the rear screen and the boot grooves as snow foam likes to live there, and I've pushed all kinds of dirt under and into the seal...10 litres of water per minute at 122 bar is quite a thing!..ah well, I will keep the water at a safer distance now.
The spare wheel cover has dried pretty flat so I'm happy to re-use that, and the carpet doesn't smell. Will put everything back in once I'm happy the leaks are sorted.
I guess my rust repairs weren't the prettiest, but thorough and hidden.
On mine the water was actually going under the seal, over the pinch seam and into the boot - rather than breaching over the top of the seal. The boot also feels a tighter fit when closed, and the release lever now has a bit more resistance.
I have to wonder if I myself had caused this seal to fail. I have a pretty powerful Kranzle K10 122 TS machine - and a monster of a machine it is too, very barbaric lol.
Maybe at times I've gone in too close and the bottom of the rear screen and the boot grooves as snow foam likes to live there, and I've pushed all kinds of dirt under and into the seal...10 litres of water per minute at 122 bar is quite a thing!..ah well, I will keep the water at a safer distance now.
The spare wheel cover has dried pretty flat so I'm happy to re-use that, and the carpet doesn't smell. Will put everything back in once I'm happy the leaks are sorted.
The reason your boot feels tighter and has more spring is because its a fresh rubber seal, so your old seal was just that, old, tired, starting to shirnk/dry up etc - usually knocking the striker plate down a few mill is enough to tighten the bootlid into the existing seal
ill be surprised if the seal was your issue
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