Not a virgin anymore!
07 March 2002, 01:06 AM
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Molds
Most dealers will not do this on request although they can do it. Best doing it yourself. Sorry a bit late, I'll explain tomorrow.
D.
[Edited by DJB - 7/3/2002 1:06:51 AM]
Most dealers will not do this on request although they can do it. Best doing it yourself. Sorry a bit late, I'll explain tomorrow.
D.
[Edited by DJB - 7/3/2002 1:06:51 AM]
02 July 2002, 12:11 PM
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Yipeee!
Took ownership of my first Scoob (Standard UK MY98) last night.
As I have not previous Scooby driving experience, I have a couple of "is this normal" questions: -
Clutch: When I pull of it feels a bit juddery. The car doesnt actually shake, but it is that kind of feedback I feel from the car. Is that the way it is?
Acceleration: I have blasted it through the gears a few times now -where appropriate of course
and found that if you red line it then change gear and hit the gas again, there is noticable lag before resuming full g-force acceleration. This isnt a huge lag, but enough to notice. Is this just how the characteristics of the turbo are as standard?
Petrol: The previous owner has always run it on regular unleaded, not super or optimax. Apparently his Subaru dealer told him this was OK and that super was a waster of money? What are your thoughts on that?
Spoiler: This is more an insurance forum Q I guess but thought I'd drop it in the list of Q's. I have the higher spoiler with the brake light in. This was fitted as an optional extra instead of the flat one when new. Liverpool Vict put this down as a body mod and charged me extra. Is that right?
TIA
Matt
PS I went to bed and off to sleep like this
last night
Took ownership of my first Scoob (Standard UK MY98) last night.
As I have not previous Scooby driving experience, I have a couple of "is this normal" questions: -
Clutch: When I pull of it feels a bit juddery. The car doesnt actually shake, but it is that kind of feedback I feel from the car. Is that the way it is?
Acceleration: I have blasted it through the gears a few times now -where appropriate of course
and found that if you red line it then change gear and hit the gas again, there is noticable lag before resuming full g-force acceleration. This isnt a huge lag, but enough to notice. Is this just how the characteristics of the turbo are as standard?Petrol: The previous owner has always run it on regular unleaded, not super or optimax. Apparently his Subaru dealer told him this was OK and that super was a waster of money? What are your thoughts on that?
Spoiler: This is more an insurance forum Q I guess but thought I'd drop it in the list of Q's. I have the higher spoiler with the brake light in. This was fitted as an optional extra instead of the flat one when new. Liverpool Vict put this down as a body mod and charged me extra. Is that right?
TIA
Matt
PS I went to bed and off to sleep like this
last night
02 July 2002, 12:16 PM
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Hiya Matt
1. Clutch judder... best thing to do about this is when cold just bring the clutch up slower and give her more revs, it normally sorts itself out after a few mins but it is a common problem on scoobs
2. Accelleration.. would suggest that you change at 6500 rpm as its better optimised gear where your max bhp normally hangs around, anything after this normally means you loose a little bit of power/torque.
3. Fuel... it works out better for you if you put optimax/sul in your car than std unleaded. You get better fuel economy and smoother drive (and more power) can save you over 1 quid per tank of fuel BTW
4. Spoiler. Yup will cost you a little extra, hopefully not too much though
Tony
1. Clutch judder... best thing to do about this is when cold just bring the clutch up slower and give her more revs, it normally sorts itself out after a few mins but it is a common problem on scoobs
2. Accelleration.. would suggest that you change at 6500 rpm as its better optimised gear where your max bhp normally hangs around, anything after this normally means you loose a little bit of power/torque.
3. Fuel... it works out better for you if you put optimax/sul in your car than std unleaded. You get better fuel economy and smoother drive (and more power
) can save you over 1 quid per tank of fuel BTW 4. Spoiler. Yup will cost you a little extra, hopefully not too much though
Tony
02 July 2002, 12:19 PM
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Matt,
should also add that if you change your fuel you need to do an ecu reset to notice the immediate gain, this could also be the problem your seeing with the changes at the red line.
Tony
should also add that if you change your fuel you need to do an ecu reset to notice the immediate gain, this could also be the problem your seeing with the changes at the red line.
Tony
02 July 2002, 12:20 PM
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Molds - I'm sure some more techn ical people will come and answer better than me...but we have a 98 UK turbo (albeit with a few extra's 
) so I can share my experiences at least...
Clutch: Ours judders a bit every now and again when cold, as you say, not much though and very easy to live with...this is a well known scooby problem. I remember reading a replacment clutch/parts was the only way to solve it forever, although most just raise the clutch at higher revs to solve it
Petrol: We always use Optimax, and would use 97 at a push. If you read the inside of the petrol cap it say's only to use 97+ I know you can use 95 and my collegue at work does, but people report a better pick up and optimax cleans the engine according to Shell Can't really give you my own opinion as I've always used Optimax with our Scoob...
Accelerating: Sounds about right to me, although I'm not usually concentrating on that as I'm shouting at the other half for redlining my baby!
Not sure about the spoiler - although we didn't pay extra for leather as it was factory fitted (Tesco's) so that's always an arguement
Have fun!
Jen
) so I can share my experiences at least...Clutch: Ours judders a bit every now and again when cold, as you say, not much though and very easy to live with...this is a well known scooby problem. I remember reading a replacment clutch/parts was the only way to solve it forever, although most just raise the clutch at higher revs to solve it
Petrol: We always use Optimax, and would use 97 at a push. If you read the inside of the petrol cap it say's only to use 97+ I know you can use 95 and my collegue at work does, but people report a better pick up and optimax cleans the engine according to Shell
Can't really give you my own opinion as I've always used Optimax with our Scoob...Accelerating: Sounds about right to me, although I'm not usually concentrating on that as I'm shouting at the other half for redlining my baby!
Not sure about the spoiler - although we didn't pay extra for leather as it was factory fitted (Tesco's) so that's always an arguement
Have fun!
Jen
02 July 2002, 12:22 PM
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Thanks Tony
It was hard to leave her in the garage and cycle in to work this morning! I said I would keep cycling as it is quicker on my journey. This morning though I was really struggling with my resolve
It was hard to leave her in the garage and cycle in to work this morning! I said I would keep cycling as it is quicker on my journey. This morning though I was really struggling with my resolve
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02 July 2002, 12:23 PM
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Welcome Matt!!
I've now owned my MY97 for just over a year now and I'm still enjoying it.
1) The clutch judder I believe occurs on most scoobs, including mine. It's only in first gear on mine and usualy when the engine is cold. You will get used to it though.
2) I rarely rev mine to the red-line as I beleive it is a watse of time. The enginer peaks it's power just after the 5500rpm mark.
3) Super-Plus and Optimax I've only used once in both occasions and haven't noticed any improvement of performance. I did notice on the Super-Plus that I managed around 25mpg and not the usual 22-23 with Unleaded.
4) High-Level Spoiler, I paid an extra 60GBP last year with Direct Line, although this year I told the insurance company that it had non-standard wheels and spoiler and they said as long as the value of the car that I had given them was included in the price then this was O.K.
Again Welcome to the board and to the joys of Scoob ownership.
P.s. Make sure you save your pennies for the service and maintence costs!!!
Cheers
RickyD
I've now owned my MY97 for just over a year now and I'm still enjoying it.
1) The clutch judder I believe occurs on most scoobs, including mine. It's only in first gear on mine and usualy when the engine is cold. You will get used to it though.
2) I rarely rev mine to the red-line as I beleive it is a watse of time. The enginer peaks it's power just after the 5500rpm mark.
3) Super-Plus and Optimax I've only used once in both occasions and haven't noticed any improvement of performance. I did notice on the Super-Plus that I managed around 25mpg and not the usual 22-23 with Unleaded.
4) High-Level Spoiler, I paid an extra 60GBP last year with Direct Line, although this year I told the insurance company that it had non-standard wheels and spoiler and they said as long as the value of the car that I had given them was included in the price then this was O.K.
Again Welcome to the board and to the joys of Scoob ownership.
P.s. Make sure you save your pennies for the service and maintence costs!!!
Cheers
RickyD
02 July 2002, 12:33 PM
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i just got a an STI V last month. First scoob and love it!!!
I also had big turbo lag when i changed from the red line. Recently put in a ITG panel filter and the problem has gone. The turbo spins much more freely. You loose the turbo thump you get so the car actualy feels slowler as there is no sudden change in acceleration but believe me, it is faster!! IMHO, Definately the way to go.
I also had big turbo lag when i changed from the red line. Recently put in a ITG panel filter and the problem has gone. The turbo spins much more freely. You loose the turbo thump you get so the car actualy feels slowler as there is no sudden change in acceleration but believe me, it is faster!! IMHO, Definately the way to go.
02 July 2002, 10:14 PM
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Molds
I traded in a MY98 when I got my STi7 2 months ago. I had for 3 years and it was a great car. I've been surprised to find that the STi feels only a little faster than my old car.
Clutch judder plagues all cars from MY97 to MY00 but MY98 do seem to be particularly badly affected. I had my clutch changed on warranty at 37000 miles and this only cured judder for about 10000 miles. You get used to it and it always goes away after about 5 minutes after start up.
The lag you've noticed on changing gear is not familiar. Mine had no lag at all especially if I changed gear beyond 5500 revs (to keep the next gear in the power band). I think that this might be related to previous owner using 95 RON. Try running on SUL or Optimax and then resetting the ECU. You must reset the ECU on this model otherwise it takes hundreds of miles to improve performance. The MRT rally black/green connector method works well. If you don't know how to do this, I'll give you a detailed explanation.
D.
I traded in a MY98 when I got my STi7 2 months ago. I had for 3 years and it was a great car. I've been surprised to find that the STi feels only a little faster than my old car.
Clutch judder plagues all cars from MY97 to MY00 but MY98 do seem to be particularly badly affected. I had my clutch changed on warranty at 37000 miles and this only cured judder for about 10000 miles. You get used to it and it always goes away after about 5 minutes after start up.
The lag you've noticed on changing gear is not familiar. Mine had no lag at all especially if I changed gear beyond 5500 revs (to keep the next gear in the power band). I think that this might be related to previous owner using 95 RON. Try running on SUL or Optimax and then resetting the ECU. You must reset the ECU on this model otherwise it takes hundreds of miles to improve performance. The MRT rally black/green connector method works well. If you don't know how to do this, I'll give you a detailed explanation.
D.
03 July 2002, 12:45 AM
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Hi DJB
Thanks for the feedback.
Put in my first tank of Optimax tonight.
I will run through that and get another one in, and then pursue the ECU reset. No idea about doing this. Should I be trying to do something like this myself or is it best to take it to the dealer?
Cheers
Matt
Thanks for the feedback.
Put in my first tank of Optimax tonight.
I will run through that and get another one in, and then pursue the ECU reset. No idea about doing this. Should I be trying to do something like this myself or is it best to take it to the dealer?
Cheers
Matt
03 July 2002, 01:25 AM
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Had a MY98 from new for 4 years clutch juddered from cold from new but went away after 5 minutes. Now have an STI dont understand the remark about it only being a bit quicker- my STI would leave my old MY98 for dead.
Use optimax it made a big difference to my old MY98
Use optimax it made a big difference to my old MY98
03 July 2002, 01:51 PM
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How to do an ECU reset:
Engine must be normal operating temp.
Locate male and female green and black connectors under steering column shroud. Now this is quite low down almost at the pedals. The connectors will be surrounded by lots of other wires. Plug green to green and black into black.
Turn on ignition but don't start engine. At this point, you'll hear all sorts of clicking and the engine fan going on and off. Don't worry this is meant to happen.
Ignition still on but engine not started - depress accelerator to the floor for a few seconds.
Start engine and drive for about 1 minute at about 20 mph. During this the check engine light will start flashing. It should flash in a consistent on/off cycle. If the light flashes in an odd sequence then there is something wrong with the engine. Yours will almost certainly be ok.
Stop engine and disconnect connectors.
Job done.
You'll now need to educate the ECU. Do this by driving for about 20-30 miles using mixed driving style.
D.
ps Pooder
Performance figures from Autocar show that there is not such a big difference between STi and MY98.
Engine must be normal operating temp.
Locate male and female green and black connectors under steering column shroud. Now this is quite low down almost at the pedals. The connectors will be surrounded by lots of other wires. Plug green to green and black into black.
Turn on ignition but don't start engine. At this point, you'll hear all sorts of clicking and the engine fan going on and off. Don't worry this is meant to happen.
Ignition still on but engine not started - depress accelerator to the floor for a few seconds.
Start engine and drive for about 1 minute at about 20 mph. During this the check engine light will start flashing. It should flash in a consistent on/off cycle. If the light flashes in an odd sequence then there is something wrong with the engine. Yours will almost certainly be ok.
Stop engine and disconnect connectors.
Job done.
You'll now need to educate the ECU. Do this by driving for about 20-30 miles using mixed driving style.
D.
ps Pooder
Performance figures from Autocar show that there is not such a big difference between STi and MY98.
03 July 2002, 01:59 PM
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Thanks D
It sounds a bit scary. Can I cause much harm if it doesnt go as described? Bit anxious not to break right now as my bank account looks a bit bare from the purchase and insurance!
Cheers
M
It sounds a bit scary. Can I cause much harm if it doesnt go as described? Bit anxious not to break right now as my bank account looks a bit bare from the purchase and insurance!
Cheers
M
03 July 2002, 09:17 PM
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Molds
I know what you mean. It does sound scary and I was very hesitant to do the reset at first. But its actually very easy, takes 2 or 3 minutes and if you follow the above, risk-free. I reset the ECU on my MY98 about 20 times.
D.
I know what you mean. It does sound scary and I was very hesitant to do the reset at first. But its actually very easy, takes 2 or 3 minutes and if you follow the above, risk-free. I reset the ECU on my MY98 about 20 times.
D.
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