Where to put axle stands?
#1
OK, I realise that I risk being ridiculed here, but I'm dumb when it comes to mechanical things.
Just bought a trolley jack and axle stands to get under the car and fit the wiring to the temperature sender in my sump bung.
Where can I safely support the car with axle stands?
Speak slowly, for you're talking to a muppet here.
Just bought a trolley jack and axle stands to get under the car and fit the wiring to the temperature sender in my sump bung.
Where can I safely support the car with axle stands?
Speak slowly, for you're talking to a muppet here.
#3
Dave, brilliant, thank you! I just need to lift the front of the car so I'll jack it up, put the stand under, chock the rear wheels (handbrake on and in gear too) and get to it.
Ta muchly.
I was hoping someone wouldn't say "under the axle".
Ta muchly.
I was hoping someone wouldn't say "under the axle".
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#9
Whatever you do DON'T TWIST THE HANDLE ON THE TROLLEY JACK WHILST UNDER THE CAR.... it'll be messy and we wouldn't wanna get blood on your subwoofer would we....
Sal
PS. Chris says can he have your sub please if you do???
Sal
PS. Chris says can he have your sub please if you do???
#10
Chiark - This concerns me. If you can't work out what to do with the jack and axle stands, do you really think you should be tinkering under the car?
Next Week:
<B>
posted by Chiark
Does anyone know how to put a sump bung back?
</B>
Next Week:
<B>
posted by Chiark
Does anyone know how to put a sump bung back?
</B>
#11
FB, you're so close to the truth it hurts.
The garage fitted the sump bung and sender unit for me, but didn't wire it up...
Muggins here thought, "no problems, 5 minute job".
Ho. Ho. Trying to find somewhere remotely cool to run the wire is challenge number 1, then actually fitting it is challenge number 2.
So, Chris is having the subs if/when I crush myself. Who's name shall I put on the P1 wheels and scoobysport backbox?
The garage fitted the sump bung and sender unit for me, but didn't wire it up...
Muggins here thought, "no problems, 5 minute job".
Ho. Ho. Trying to find somewhere remotely cool to run the wire is challenge number 1, then actually fitting it is challenge number 2.
So, Chris is having the subs if/when I crush myself. Who's name shall I put on the P1 wheels and scoobysport backbox?
#15
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:<HR>Originally posted by Dave T-S:
<B>I could do with a set of track day wheels. Fast Bloke don't need em!!
[/quote]
I'm building a new one from the ground up - starting with the wheels
<B>I could do with a set of track day wheels. Fast Bloke don't need em!!
[/quote]
I'm building a new one from the ground up - starting with the wheels
#16
If the reason to raise the car does not need the wheels off, then it is safest to buy some ramps and drive up onto them. As soon as you are on stands or as you sometimes see, a jack, the car is liable to fall on you if the tarmac is soft or someone else drives past too fast and rocks the car.
#17
It is with deep regret that I inform you that I fitted the connection to my temperature sender with absolutely no problems.
Even managed to find somewhere that wasn't too hot to run the wire.
It is absolutely nothing, but I feel a strange sense of pride in not cocking it up (or indeed crushing myself).
My apologies to all who laid claim to my modifications
Even managed to find somewhere that wasn't too hot to run the wire.
It is absolutely nothing, but I feel a strange sense of pride in not cocking it up (or indeed crushing myself).
My apologies to all who laid claim to my modifications
#20
Tim: damn good point and if Woolworths had them on special offer I'd have used those instead 15 quid for 2 tonne trolley jack and 2 axle stands struck me as just the ticket
Not many things drive past me in a concrete floored double garage, but I would have been better off with ramps. I was a tad concerned about the car moving sideways off the stands, so I left the jack "half supporting" a side just for good measure.
Not many things drive past me in a concrete floored double garage, but I would have been better off with ramps. I was a tad concerned about the car moving sideways off the stands, so I left the jack "half supporting" a side just for good measure.
#21
As you're all on the subject of "technical" questions, I have one that I've been wondering about...
I got my Scoob about 3 weeks ago and found it to be pretty good to say the least.
My question is.......how does the hand brake work? Ho Ho...Yes I know the obvious answer, but how does the linkage actually connect to the rear wheels?
It seems to be incredibly good at being able to stop the wheels at what would seem to be any speed, although I havn't tried this yet!
Let me know, please!
I got my Scoob about 3 weeks ago and found it to be pretty good to say the least.
My question is.......how does the hand brake work? Ho Ho...Yes I know the obvious answer, but how does the linkage actually connect to the rear wheels?
It seems to be incredibly good at being able to stop the wheels at what would seem to be any speed, although I havn't tried this yet!
Let me know, please!
#22
I have been told before that the hand brake is connected to shoes inside a drum on the rear axle...
Could be horribly wrong, though!
Either way, don't think about handbrake turns without thinking of the sort of damage you'll be doing to the centre diff
Could be horribly wrong, though!
Either way, don't think about handbrake turns without thinking of the sort of damage you'll be doing to the centre diff
#23
I think the handbrake works on a separate system from the normal brakes. The hand brake pads are much smaller, so any fun with the handbrake will initially lead to your handbrake stopping working followed closely by some kind of centre diff damage/failure. (It kills me to agree with Chiark, even when he is right)
#25
Thanks for the responses. I figured that it must be a separate system due to the effectiveness compared to other cars driven.
This was particularly noticed when stopping off to get some fuel (in a bit of a hurry), gently applying the h/brake to "slow" the car whilst getting ready to jump out and start filling up.....
how everyone's heads turned when they heard a screech of tyres on the forecourt, with what looked like someone trying to impress a F1 team with the speed of refueling!
The other thing i've noticed it that the car "lurches" on hills after the break has been applied, and the footbrake is released. (a bit like an automatic) which is why I thought it might have something to do with the axle linkage.
This was particularly noticed when stopping off to get some fuel (in a bit of a hurry), gently applying the h/brake to "slow" the car whilst getting ready to jump out and start filling up.....
how everyone's heads turned when they heard a screech of tyres on the forecourt, with what looked like someone trying to impress a F1 team with the speed of refueling!
The other thing i've noticed it that the car "lurches" on hills after the break has been applied, and the footbrake is released. (a bit like an automatic) which is why I thought it might have something to do with the axle linkage.
#26
CM, the lurch can be cured. mine did the same, and I mentioned it at first service.
I now have two clicks on the handbrake to "full on", and no annoying roll!
The mechanic said that he'd "adjusted the shoes"...
I now have two clicks on the handbrake to "full on", and no annoying roll!
The mechanic said that he'd "adjusted the shoes"...
#27
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:<HR>Originally posted by chiark:
<B>If it kills you to agree, can I have first dibs on anything that I like from your car
I can see where this will be going...[/quote]
You can have the whole car... if you can find it. (It was last spotted two weeks ago leaving the scene of an armed robbery outside Dublin)
<B>If it kills you to agree, can I have first dibs on anything that I like from your car
I can see where this will be going...[/quote]
You can have the whole car... if you can find it. (It was last spotted two weeks ago leaving the scene of an armed robbery outside Dublin)
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