Hi Guys, Today I was driving my beloved Scoob and I stalled it, So I thought no probs start her up again, But she would not start, could someone tell me if the imobliser cuts in straight away, She started after a couple of minutes and was fine, just find this a bit bafferling.
Cheers
Colin

 

Scoob99

I've had something similar (as have other people on here). It is as if Scoobies don't like being stopped "unusually" is the only way i can put it.
It has happened to me when I have stopped the car very quickly after starting it (as if it hasn't really caught it's breath) and the only way I could start it again was to put my foot right down on the throttle and just turn it till it catches.
My best guess is that the ECU gets confused in some way?
I have suffered no ill effects after this and I think the same goes for everyone else.

Neil (sorry for the unspecific answer!)

 

The explanation I was given by my dealer for this (or at least my interpretation of it ) was that when the car is started from cold the ECU makes the mixture as rich as it can for a minute or so. If the engine is stopped very shortly after it had been started there's a good chance you could have unburnt fuel in the cylinder. So it floods when you try and start it again. And the solution (as you've found out Neil ) is to stick your foot to the floor and turn the engine over until it fires. He suggested that, if you were going to start and then stop the engine shortly afterwards, you rev the engine up and switch off then rather than switch off while it's idleing.

G

 

Nah Nimbus, that only happens if you have been giving it some stick, thankfully I hadn't on this occasion, Constant motorway driving you have to let the turbo cool and the engine to idle for a minute.
Cheers
Colin

 

Thanks guys, you have put my mind at rest, It just seemed strange at the time.
Cheers
Colin

 

Just about every modern catalysed car seems to have this problem: my old Mondeo (and my father in law's) were exactly the same. If you started them, say to reverse down the drive, then stopped the motor, it would be a right pig to start again, and would only come in on two or three cylinders. The way I got round it (when I had to) was by making sure it idled for at least 30 seconds from cold before switching off.

In the US, they call it 'lawnmower syndrome' -- cars getting cranky because they get started up & moved out of the garage to get the lawnmower.

 

I used to suffer the same problem on my MY98 though mine wouldn't start if stalled when hot either and had a few other problems like an erratic idle in heavy traffic.

My experience would bear out the fact it is the ECU as since I have had the PPP fitted the problem has gone. The car now starts first ttime after a stall.

Hope this helps

Robin

 

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:<HR>Originally posted by GM:
<B>He suggested that, if you were going to start and then stop the engine shortly afterwards, you rev the engine up and switch off then rather than switch off while it's idleing.
G[/quote]

Isn't this going to damage the turbo bearings in some way? I though you were always supposed to let the engine (and turbo) idle before switching off otherwise the turbo could be spinning when the engine is off and there is no oil being fed to the turbo.

 

I thought that the turbo spindle had an oil bearing and that if it was turned without there being enough oil pressure to create a low friction interface then there would be a lot of ware. This is separate to the 'cool down' period of the turbo after a heavy drive.

Imagine

Engine is cold/warm whatever. Rev to 2000rpm. The oil is under pressure, the turbo is spinning (but not producing boost) the bearings are lubricated.

Now, you switch the engine off without going to idle first. The oil pressure immediately drops so it's no longer protecting the turbo spindle/bearings. The turbo is still spinning without the oil. Is this not a bad thing...?