Over to the guys in the know I suppose, whats the best way to run in an MY02 and is there any specific fuel of fuel to avoid? Not sure if this is the right board but........

Thanks

Shaw.T

 

Hi

Don't use normal 95 RON fuel
Avoid supermarket fuel(although this is controversial as some people think its ok)
Running in
Keep below 4000 revs in any gear for 1000 miles.
Don't travel at a constant speed for any length of time.
Some people build up the rev limit slowly for the next 2000 miles or so. E.g 4500 for 500 miles,5000 for the next 500 etc.
Change the oil to semi synth at the 1000 mile service.
Change the oil to fully synth at 6000 miles.
Keep to service intervals. Time as well as mileage

Think that's all

 

That a bit OTT there are guys on here who run 350+bhp on 95 NUL and always trash the car from cold from new and never have a problem LOL (only joking).

Must say I agree 100% with Neils post, if you follow his advice you cant go far wrong.


Cheers

ChrisP



[Edited by chrisp - 7/29/2002 10:05:07 AM]

 

Hi

Not knocking the advice here but just wondering on what basis it is given. Is it official advice from Subaru or just personal advice

I agree with that as it says so in subaru manual and on the inside of the filler flap. I says to use 97Ron or above.

Again agreed

where do you get this from. Sure don't thrash the boll*cks off and redline it everywhere but aren't these car built to withstand a bit of stick.

Surely just a personal preference. If a good quality mineral oil it used why would that not be just as good.

Definitely agree.

Just interested know where all this comes from.


[Edited by vel boy - 7/29/2002 12:42:19 PM]

 

The guy asked for advice and as far as I know what Neil said is bang on most engine people and people whos opinions I trust say pretty much the same. Building up revs gradually after the first service helps the bedding in process and leads to better engine life and a freer revving engine. If you change to fully synthetic straight away then this stop the bedding in process, going to one after about 5000-6000 miles is a good move and recommended by a lot of engine builders.

Due to the turbo and the heat of the engine they is no way I would put a mineral oil in my car to be honest. On my defi I have had a peak of 110c showing as oil temperature

Pays ya more etc though

Cheers

ChrisP

[Edited by chrisp - 7/29/2002 1:00:12 PM]

 

Thanks for the info

So what do they put in as standard? I have noticed it is damm hot after a long run.

[Edited by vel boy - 7/29/2002 1:06:14 PM]

 

To be honest I was told by my dealer on my UK car just not to redline it when running in. Labouring the engine is more damaging than giving it a few extra revs. I tended to keep around 3000-3500 for the first 300miles and then kept below 4000 rpm upto about 300-500 miles and then had the occasional blast to 4500 rpm and when I approached the magic 1000 hit 5000 a few times but only when everything was nice and warm. When I got it back I used upto 5000 for a few hundred miles and increased the revs gradually over the next 1000 miles. Just make sure you warm the engine up before using the revs. Right or wrong thats what I did on both my UK and Import.

I was however told by the garage to always use SUL as I would get better power, mpg and smoother running I cant comment on 95 RON as in 4 years and two scoob I have only used one tank during the fuel crisis and ran off turbo to save fuel, so mpg was better on NUL .

Cheers

ChrisP

 

Subaru UK use to recommend and only put in Shell Helix recently they seem to offer Mobil one 5w40 as well I think. I have always changed to fully synthetic at 1000miles which I found out recently may not be ideal. My import had Mobil one motorsport 15w40 in at 1000miles and this was changed to silkolene fully synthetic from about 3000miles onwards.


[Edited by chrisp - 7/29/2002 1:23:56 PM]

 

good stuff.

Then i'll get some when I hit 3k

Do you think it make that much of a difference?

It pretty costly synth oil isn't it

 

Thanks for the advice, a thought crossed my mind tho, my local Subaru dealer does juice and I have never noticed Super Unleaded.....another thing if you was out in the sticks and you had no choice the only fuel available was 95Ron what are the adverse effects if any?

Thanks again for the advice

 

Try and answer both previous questions, fully synthetic is more expensive and best to talk to your local dealer so you dont invalidate your warranty. I dont have a warranty so I can chuck in what I like but if it goes bang I foot the bill.

A standard 215bhp UK turbo will happily run on 95 RON the adverse affect will be that the ECU will retard the ignition due to the reduced RON and this will consequently lower the maximum boost available meaning less power .

[Edited by chrisp - 7/29/2002 8:23:44 PM]

 

Does the ECU learn your engine so to speak then? If so does this mean driving style? sounds daft but if the fuel is known to be different by the way it explodes in the pot then surely it must take into account other factors, and another thing brfore I go for a sit down in a dark room is the ECU dynamic i.e. does it reverse the effects when you start putting the correct fuel back in?

Sorry for all the questions not owned such a nice piece of engineering like this before and I am curious.

[Edited by Shaw.T - 7/29/2002 9:00:17 PM]

 

The ECU is adaptive uses a knock sensor it then advances and retards the igniton depending on the knock of the fuel. The higher the RON the higher the knock and the more advance it will run. The newer the MY (model year) the better the adaptiveness (is that a word ) of the ECU. For older cars you needed to an ECU reset but from about 98 onwards the cars learnt over a short period of time/miles.

Cheers

ChrisP

 

I have MY02, and the SUL is definitely worth it. It seems to make a big difference off boost too, probably due to ignition settings. Runs smoother, runs faster etc. I also think it gives about 10% better fuel economy on average, so pays for the difference - not that you buy a scoob for fuel economy

Have some experience as I ran with NUL until about 1300 miles, tried SUL and haven't gone back. Still undecided about Optimax vs SUL, some people swear by it.

Prodrive quote power and torque figures for a PPP'd car on SUL and NUL (about 15 bhp and 15 lbft difference). THe fact they quote a NUL power output suggests to me they don't expect it will break the engine quickly, even if it doesn't ultimately help it's life.

After the 1k service (be nice until then!), I have tended to run the engine to what "feels right". The engine didn't feel llike it wanted more than about 5000-5500, so I stuck there. At 2k, it feels Ok to 6000-6500, which I think is as far as you ever need to take it. Still haven't done sustained hard use.

Edited to say - note the running in is based on what has worked for me & friends/family on a few new engines, most were non-turbo. Wouldn't claim to have half the knowledge of some of the people on here, just some limited experience.

That's by 10p's worth

[Edited by hades - 7/30/2002 12:19:49 AM]

 

the SIDC bible must be consulted

http://www.sidc.co.uk/faq.htm#2.4