Best way 0-60 in SCOOBY????????????????
#1
0-60 times
1. Dial up between 5500 - 6000 revs
2. Side step clutch (not bring clutch up)
3. Change into second at 6000revs as quickly and roughly as possible
4. Post 5.6 secs and then watch all the Cossie's and Evos post faster
5. Call in at garage on way home for new clutch
Steve
PS. I've Never done it this way so I stand to be corrected!
1. Dial up between 5500 - 6000 revs
2. Side step clutch (not bring clutch up)
3. Change into second at 6000revs as quickly and roughly as possible
4. Post 5.6 secs and then watch all the Cossie's and Evos post faster
5. Call in at garage on way home for new clutch
Steve
PS. I've Never done it this way so I stand to be corrected!
#2
Scooby Regular
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From: 1600cc's of twin scroll fun :)
Side step the clutch?
Depends if you want to go home on a trailer or not
OK, best way (uk car here ) is to get to 4000rpm, keep the bite on the clutch, bring it up, dont side step and keep the power down, the car should just grip and go but it takes a bit of getting use to so if you mess up and bog your turbo down (basically drop out of your power) then dont worry too much, the downside is that your clutch will probably smell for england by the time you have finished so give it a break after a few runs.
Tony
Depends if you want to go home on a trailer or not
OK, best way (uk car here ) is to get to 4000rpm, keep the bite on the clutch, bring it up, dont side step and keep the power down, the car should just grip and go but it takes a bit of getting use to so if you mess up and bog your turbo down (basically drop out of your power) then dont worry too much, the downside is that your clutch will probably smell for england by the time you have finished so give it a break after a few runs.
Tony
#4
This is the technique I use for 1/4 miles so principal is the same.
If you hold constant revs then your boost drops and you will bog down.It's not like on an NA car where keeping the revs steady is more important.I keep revving the engine (like a boy racer at the lights)which keeps bringing the boost back up-then launch on around 6000rpm,changing at 6500rpm.
If you hold constant revs then your boost drops and you will bog down.It's not like on an NA car where keeping the revs steady is more important.I keep revving the engine (like a boy racer at the lights)which keeps bringing the boost back up-then launch on around 6000rpm,changing at 6500rpm.
#5
What is "side stepping" the clutch. Is this some kind of dance routine while you are seated? I have read in Autocar about the testers "side stepping" the clutch, but what does this mean. Please explain slowly and explicitly as I am as thick as two short planks.....Blutes
#6
Blutes - as in depress clutch, hold car at high revs and slip foot off clutch sideways.
The common Autocar testers way.
Puts huge loads on drivetrain and not the fastest way to launch 4wd turbo.
Fastest way IMHO is as described above - about 4k revs, get clutch biting, and simultaneously release clutch and fully open throttle.
Boost is dependent on load. Simply holding high revs and sidestepping won't necessarily achieve high boost and hence may not give best times. Neither will revving an engine as there is no load.
If you balance throttle against clutch to maximise boost with just a little slip to avoid bogging down off boost you will achieve launches like you would not believe, with no bogging down and no wheelspin.
Car magazine testers (IMHO) use the side step method because it is simple to be consistent. Not all as talented as their positions would suggest.
D
[Edited by Diablo - 9/11/2002 10:12:56 PM]
The common Autocar testers way.
Puts huge loads on drivetrain and not the fastest way to launch 4wd turbo.
Fastest way IMHO is as described above - about 4k revs, get clutch biting, and simultaneously release clutch and fully open throttle.
Boost is dependent on load. Simply holding high revs and sidestepping won't necessarily achieve high boost and hence may not give best times. Neither will revving an engine as there is no load.
If you balance throttle against clutch to maximise boost with just a little slip to avoid bogging down off boost you will achieve launches like you would not believe, with no bogging down and no wheelspin.
Car magazine testers (IMHO) use the side step method because it is simple to be consistent. Not all as talented as their positions would suggest.
D
[Edited by Diablo - 9/11/2002 10:12:56 PM]
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#8
Don't back off fully from the throttle on the gear change. I read andy F going on about only backing off 1/4 throttle on gear changes to prevent lag and then tested it the next day. Makes a big difference but increases wear on my clutch. Andy....please send cheque made out to K MacLeod for my clutch losses
#10
Side stepping the clutch at around 6000rpm, is the method I used on Sunday night, messing around with my G-Tech accelerometer. Needless to say, I never managed 0-60, or a 1/4 mile time...
I did still have 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th to get me home though.
I wont be trying that again. Id let the clutch out more gently next time
I did still have 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th to get me home though.
I wont be trying that again. Id let the clutch out more gently next time
#15
Magaizines use the sidestep technique, as they don't have to pay for the repairs to the car
Clutch slip routine is fastest, as has been stated above, it works great on 4wd cars, and only needs a little practise. You soon get used to the smell of burning clutch, just remember, clutches are cheaper than gearboxes...
Clutch slip routine is fastest, as has been stated above, it works great on 4wd cars, and only needs a little practise. You soon get used to the smell of burning clutch, just remember, clutches are cheaper than gearboxes...
#16
i get the best starts and 1/4 miles times at santa pod by holding revs about 5k at the start - bring the clutch up and flooring it and change before 6k, reckon this gets me the best 0-60 times too.
i managed a 4.3sec 0-60 this way IMHO, timed using video camera playback - http://www.peccy.com/pics/video/peccy0-60in4-3.wmv
peccy
i managed a 4.3sec 0-60 this way IMHO, timed using video camera playback - http://www.peccy.com/pics/video/peccy0-60in4-3.wmv
peccy
#17
had a couple of runs a few weeks back and tried slipping the clutch from about 4k and tried dumping the clutch at 5 and 6 (didn't sidestep, just yanked my foot up). Running alongside a Celica GT4 he flew away from me on the start when i dumped at 6k and 5k. The best start was definately slipping it from 4000, but I didn't like doing it cos the clutch smell was not nice after 3 runs.
1) How many starts can I do at 4k slipping the clutch before I have to buy a new one?
2) What replacement clutch would people reocmmend for when I've burnt this one out next weekend? Don't want anything too heavy cos I don't drive like this all the time. I also use it to take the niece to playschool.
1) How many starts can I do at 4k slipping the clutch before I have to buy a new one?
2) What replacement clutch would people reocmmend for when I've burnt this one out next weekend? Don't want anything too heavy cos I don't drive like this all the time. I also use it to take the niece to playschool.
#18
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From: 1600cc's of twin scroll fun :)
Saxo Boy,
i think that if you ran full boost in 1st and 2nd you would probably be buying new gearboxes every other week
Your lower gearing in these 2 gears compensates for the boost levels anyway
Tony
i think that if you ran full boost in 1st and 2nd you would probably be buying new gearboxes every other week
Your lower gearing in these 2 gears compensates for the boost levels anyway
Tony
#19
Why's that, I would have thought the gearbox would be more stress under the load of full boost in 5th than in 1st where there is less actual resistance acting on the car.
Calling all physisist (sp?)
Calling all physisist (sp?)
#20
you store an awful lot of energy in the flywheel, so boost on launch is less of a problem, at peak revs it's there or there abouts.
BTW, I have a legacy estate, same as stevie, so the below may be more or less effective in an impreza.
I tried a few launches recently, 5000rpm hold, bring up clutch pedal over about half a second I should think, and feed in throttle as you go. Revs dipped to about 3900 as the clutch came out, but by then it was fully out, the the throttle flat. Got nearly full boost by the time I changed into second.
No major clutch slippage, no nasty smells, a little spin on the front wheels, nice and clean really.
short road so cruised down after change.
Same exercise in wet, same concrete road, but revs held at 4500 resulted in 4 wheels spinning a little,but still a good launch, and kinder I think on the clutch and transmission.
Paul
BTW, I have a legacy estate, same as stevie, so the below may be more or less effective in an impreza.
I tried a few launches recently, 5000rpm hold, bring up clutch pedal over about half a second I should think, and feed in throttle as you go. Revs dipped to about 3900 as the clutch came out, but by then it was fully out, the the throttle flat. Got nearly full boost by the time I changed into second.
No major clutch slippage, no nasty smells, a little spin on the front wheels, nice and clean really.
short road so cruised down after change.
Same exercise in wet, same concrete road, but revs held at 4500 resulted in 4 wheels spinning a little,but still a good launch, and kinder I think on the clutch and transmission.
Paul
#21
SB
i dont know the answer.. but...
in 3rd, 4th and 5th - the revs rise slower than in 1st and 2nd.
also... the gearing is such that the internal mechanisms are moving slower.
perhaps it is the acceleration of the gears that would cause the loads to be too big and cause things to snap - when running more boost (and hence more torque)?
if u quickly pull down a branch on a tree... u could get it to snap...
but if u pull the branch down slowly... it may bend further?
I dunno!
i dont know the answer.. but...
in 3rd, 4th and 5th - the revs rise slower than in 1st and 2nd.
also... the gearing is such that the internal mechanisms are moving slower.
perhaps it is the acceleration of the gears that would cause the loads to be too big and cause things to snap - when running more boost (and hence more torque)?
if u quickly pull down a branch on a tree... u could get it to snap...
but if u pull the branch down slowly... it may bend further?
I dunno!
#23
Just make out a cheque payable to Nobles (Penicuik) for £1498.30, carry out all the above ideas of 0-60, then deposit car at above named dealer for sourced gearbox and replacement clutch...... easy really!
Then repeat if necessary!
Then repeat if necessary!
#24
Subaru Tuning Specialist
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 6,654
Likes: 1
From: 7.74 @179 mph 1/4 mile - road legal
Don't back off fully from the throttle on the gear change. I read andy F going on about only backing off 1/4 throttle on gear changes to prevent lag and then tested it the next day. Makes a big difference but increases wear on my clutch. Andy....please send cheque made out to K MacLeod for my clutch losses
Noooooooooo, don't back off by 1/4, back off TOO 1/4 throttle
ps Cheque is in the post
pps It's unlikely that 2 cars will launch the same so what works for me may be crap for you.
#25
load on the car is not caused by wind resistance while you are in 1st or 2nd gear Saxo Boy. Load for the turbo to spin up is produced by the traction you are getting and the effort the engine needs to put forth to keep producing power.
#26
Saxoboy - please don't tell me you had the throttle open 75% on gear changes...if so I can't beleive you tried that.
ps - tip for you, I find going from 5th to 1st gear keeps the revs higher
shunty
ps - tip for you, I find going from 5th to 1st gear keeps the revs higher
shunty
#27
If you're doing a 0-60 or 1/4 mile I don't see the point unless you're going to try everything possible to get the fastest time.If you're worried about breaking things then don't do it.I keep my foot flat down on the gear change ie don't lift off at all(not for normal everyday driving obviously)and aim to spin the wheels up briefly which gives me full boost in 1st and a head start to 2nd gear.I find this the quickest way for me and have only been beaten out of the blocks once on the strip and never in a traffic light grand prix(you all do it sometimes).This has eventually resulted in a knackered gearbox but I knew that would happen eventually.
#28
Shunty, did indeed I made the changes very quickly to limit the clutch exposure to the free reving engine...not that it reved for very long. What I will say is it worked a treat and would defo make a difference to 1/4 mile crail times. I'd only ever apply such technique at Crail or in a race with a car I really wanted to try and match/beat.
Incidently doing this elimanated the 'thud' from the rear diff on fast changes so basically it took, IMO, the stresses of fast changes away from the diff and placed them on the clutch. The diff basically gets smooth and continous power through it whereas with a closed throttle fast change it would thud when the turbo spooled back up.
Incidently doing this elimanated the 'thud' from the rear diff on fast changes so basically it took, IMO, the stresses of fast changes away from the diff and placed them on the clutch. The diff basically gets smooth and continous power through it whereas with a closed throttle fast change it would thud when the turbo spooled back up.
#30
Well I use my car in competition(sprints) I never dump the clutch, but in my experience its best to keep the revs up just under 4000 ish and then feed the clutch out as you feel it bite as best you can - obviously letting it out faster as you feel the car go.