2003 PPP Urgent
#1
urget question
I'm buying a WRX Wagon version
I'll only keep it 2 years (high mileage)
options are:
1)
now i can go for a second hand bugeye (or new) and then i can have it PPP'ed and
suspension from lebda and AP 6pot brakes
and have a tuned scooby from day 1, enjoy it for 2years and sell it on
could be it drops in price cause of the 2003 model around the corner
but i'll have had 2 years of fun
2) wait 2 months and get me a 2003 wagon,
but then i've got 2 questions: will the PPP from the 2002 fit? and what about suspension???
cause if i have to wait 1 year to get it ppp'ed and suspension set up, then i 'll only have 1 year of
tuned scooby fun
and i think the 2003 is actually alot uglier....
so i need your help:
what would you do?
and does anyone have any contacts with prodrive they can ask about the PPP for a 2003?????
thanks
I'm buying a WRX Wagon version
I'll only keep it 2 years (high mileage)
options are:
1)
now i can go for a second hand bugeye (or new) and then i can have it PPP'ed and
suspension from lebda and AP 6pot brakes
and have a tuned scooby from day 1, enjoy it for 2years and sell it on
could be it drops in price cause of the 2003 model around the corner
but i'll have had 2 years of fun
2) wait 2 months and get me a 2003 wagon,
but then i've got 2 questions: will the PPP from the 2002 fit? and what about suspension???
cause if i have to wait 1 year to get it ppp'ed and suspension set up, then i 'll only have 1 year of
tuned scooby fun
and i think the 2003 is actually alot uglier....
so i need your help:
what would you do?
and does anyone have any contacts with prodrive they can ask about the PPP for a 2003?????
thanks
#2
Scooby Senior
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Wildberg, Germany/Reading, UK
Posts: 9,708
Likes: 0
Received 73 Likes
on
54 Posts
Get a 2000 GT and buy your own performance parts, forget the PPP it ain't worth the money IMHO.
My 2000 GT runs rings round my mates STi7 and my mates PPPd MY00
Just my opinion and I don't want to offend or upset all you people that think the STi7 is a car fit for a god
My 2000 GT runs rings round my mates STi7 and my mates PPPd MY00
Just my opinion and I don't want to offend or upset all you people that think the STi7 is a car fit for a god
#3
All indications are that there will be a PPP for the MY03 and MY03 STI. There are subtle differences in the engine and exhaust systems(such as a larger intercooler) which means that I suspect the PPP will have to be retested on the the MY03 and maybe tweaked for performance and reliability.
So, the PPP may fit asis, but I think that prodrive will retest it to make sure it will. That's why I think, there's been no official release date.
Prodrive do have the MY03 cars, as 1, they are developing the rally car, and 2 I spotted a couple when I was there the other week. As to what the cars were doing there, i'll use the unofficial prodrive slogan of 'I could'nt possibly say'
So, the PPP may fit asis, but I think that prodrive will retest it to make sure it will. That's why I think, there's been no official release date.
Prodrive do have the MY03 cars, as 1, they are developing the rally car, and 2 I spotted a couple when I was there the other week. As to what the cars were doing there, i'll use the unofficial prodrive slogan of 'I could'nt possibly say'
#4
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: München, Bavaria, Germany
Posts: 1,359
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Agreed - I would also NEVER touch a car with tuning - even if you are the first to have it and are selling within 2 years. Unless LOTS of work is done to a car you will only have "improved" performance for not long. Real tuners - or for people who do this for real spend thousands uprating lots of gear. Simply changing the way the mapping is not enough.
As for suspension and brakes, well suspension from lebda and AP 6pot brakes IMHO are better than original, but not worth the money you are paying - The best suspension I have ever experienced is with KW suspension - better than many. And why change brembo brakes anyhow?? They are particularly good.
Well thats my 2c worth also...
As for suspension and brakes, well suspension from lebda and AP 6pot brakes IMHO are better than original, but not worth the money you are paying - The best suspension I have ever experienced is with KW suspension - better than many. And why change brembo brakes anyhow?? They are particularly good.
Well thats my 2c worth also...
#5
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Warwick
Posts: 733
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sorry Wurzel - your car "runs rings around" my MY00 PPP? I don't think so!! Or rather, it does, but only on the corners because you've spent a lot of money on a decent suspension upgrade! Mine's faster in a straight line, in outright power and torque (as Neal=Cheeseboy will attest) and that's what the PPP is all about! There's no suspension change in the PPP!
C'mon, Steve, you know better than this!
Richard
C'mon, Steve, you know better than this!
Richard
#7
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Warwick
Posts: 733
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Anyway, back to the original question, I actually agree with the Wurzmeister at least on the recommendation to get a classic shape and spend some cash on proper upgrades. I love the PPP, but it is a tad expensive new. Second hand on an existing car though it makes more sense (IMHO) and it's a complete upgrade (not just a bit like part of an exhaust) and it keeps the Subaru warranty intact if you buy a UK one.
Or if it's MY02 or MY03 you're looking at, but you don't like the look of the MY03 or the waiting, then surely the answer's obvious? Go for the MY02, which is available at a knock-down price at the moment while dealers shift their stocks before the MY03 comes in properly...
Another 2 cents
Richard
[Edited by Re-Bitten Hero - 12/13/2002 1:40:05 PM]
Trending Topics
#8
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: München, Bavaria, Germany
Posts: 1,359
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
but his will probably last 50,000 km longer than yours... Having the job I have, I have talked long with people in the know... IMHO if you want to do it well you need to go the whole hog..
Dont get me wrong, Prodrive should know what they are doing... For example the UK300 has better performance and even as early as 3,000 rpm, torque is 318Nm instead of the standard car's 281Nm, while maximum pulling power when using 97 Octane fuel is 355Nm at 4,000 rpm instead of 293Nm at 3,600 rpm. Maximum power is up to 180kW at 5,600 rpm instead of the standard WRX's 160kW at the same engine speed. Again, these figures are achieved by using 97 Octane fuel, and here in europe (main) we get 98. But when running on 95 Octane you still get 169kW at the same 5,600 rpm. The secret to this performance is a £1,600 Prodrive WR Sport performance pack - a reprogrammed Electronic Control Unit, uprated intercooler piping and free-flow exhaust system with a large single tailpipe. But at what cost...? With added power comes extra stress - stress that these little engines are not made for. Plus the whole gearbox, drivetrain etc etc should also be changed to cope with the added "power". The engines in the rally cars are VERY different to what we have in ours.
For starters, if you remap, you can do this safely to change the effectiveness of your engine - say to have better pulling power down low, or high end power - this is safe. However, one thing they change is the air pressure being fed to the engine - ie boost. But do many of you realise that this boost means your turbo spins faster and longer?? And in doing so will kill it earlier? Ideally start here and change your fins to lighter ceramic fins, then change the spindle (thinner as less weight now) and change the bearings to high speed... Then uprate the block, change the pistons and crankshaft, change the gearbox, flywheel and clutchplate, change the driveshaft, etc etc... should I go on??
Sorry - getting off my horse now and riding long and slow into the sunset...
Dont get me wrong, Prodrive should know what they are doing... For example the UK300 has better performance and even as early as 3,000 rpm, torque is 318Nm instead of the standard car's 281Nm, while maximum pulling power when using 97 Octane fuel is 355Nm at 4,000 rpm instead of 293Nm at 3,600 rpm. Maximum power is up to 180kW at 5,600 rpm instead of the standard WRX's 160kW at the same engine speed. Again, these figures are achieved by using 97 Octane fuel, and here in europe (main) we get 98. But when running on 95 Octane you still get 169kW at the same 5,600 rpm. The secret to this performance is a £1,600 Prodrive WR Sport performance pack - a reprogrammed Electronic Control Unit, uprated intercooler piping and free-flow exhaust system with a large single tailpipe. But at what cost...? With added power comes extra stress - stress that these little engines are not made for. Plus the whole gearbox, drivetrain etc etc should also be changed to cope with the added "power". The engines in the rally cars are VERY different to what we have in ours.
For starters, if you remap, you can do this safely to change the effectiveness of your engine - say to have better pulling power down low, or high end power - this is safe. However, one thing they change is the air pressure being fed to the engine - ie boost. But do many of you realise that this boost means your turbo spins faster and longer?? And in doing so will kill it earlier? Ideally start here and change your fins to lighter ceramic fins, then change the spindle (thinner as less weight now) and change the bearings to high speed... Then uprate the block, change the pistons and crankshaft, change the gearbox, flywheel and clutchplate, change the driveshaft, etc etc... should I go on??
Sorry - getting off my horse now and riding long and slow into the sunset...
#9
problem is i need the PPP, cause i can't invalidate my warrenty
I do 40.000miles a year and i need that freakin warrenty
so....PPP is a must
and the massive discount aren't being giving in belgium
untill now: NO discount
and i called Prodrive: they said the PPP for the 2003 is gonna be ready in march (or end feb)
doesn't make it any easier!!!
I do 40.000miles a year and i need that freakin warrenty
so....PPP is a must
and the massive discount aren't being giving in belgium
untill now: NO discount
and i called Prodrive: they said the PPP for the 2003 is gonna be ready in march (or end feb)
doesn't make it any easier!!!
#10
Scooby Senior
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Wildberg, Germany/Reading, UK
Posts: 9,708
Likes: 0
Received 73 Likes
on
54 Posts
Come on Neal don't stop there finish the story.... I guess this is why prodrive have a car that cost 250K and still only has 300BHP when we all know the average scoobynetter is running over 300BHP in a standard road car, and don't prodrive rebuild the engine after every rally ??????
#15
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Warwick
Posts: 733
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Neal - Steve's car won't last longer than mine (write-offs permitting ) because he drives it a lot harder than I do. I rarely use more than about 5500rpm because, well, there's normally no need That sort of thing is down to the driver. Maximum engine wear occurs in the top 500rpm or so, so regular red-liners or the 6000rpm+ brigade will suffer engine failures far before me, irrespective of having the PPP or not.
Und sprechst du kein Deutsch hier on Scoobynet
Richard
Und sprechst du kein Deutsch hier on Scoobynet
Richard
#17
Scooby Senior
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Wildberg, Germany/Reading, UK
Posts: 9,708
Likes: 0
Received 73 Likes
on
54 Posts
Rich, yes I do drive it a lot harder than you but I don't red line it, or thrash it all the time, most of the people who have been out with me reckon I change gear to soon and am not using the power band correctly.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post