Razor2001

Hi Guys and gals....

Since I am not going to mod my JDM STi-7 any further then it is due to safety (got a full ScoobySport Decat turbo back) ...well maybe will get the new ECU that ScoobySport is coming out with (only if it is really safe though).....anyway, the only way to get faster now is to take driving lessons and lighten the car....

What is the best way to go about lightenning my car or any car for that matter, while maintaining its class...seats etc

Cheers,
Ray

PS: 150 - 300 lbs off would be nice

Razor2001

ok ok ok...I will start .... new ligher wheels, maybe save 5 - 20 lbs. max

new hood ...carbon fiber .... maybe save 25 - 35 lbs. ?

take out spare tyre / jack etc and stick in can of tyre sealant - maybe save 5 lbs.
?

more... ??

Deep Singh

Ditch the AC,electric window motors,spare wheel,exchange Brembos for lighter ones,exchange exhaust for titanium jobbie.Personally though I'd fit Aquamist,fmic run Octane booster and get a remap and keep all the creature comforts and hopefully get some extra BHP.FYI,my car with full SS system and 1.25mm restrictor when data logged was making barely 1bar boost despite what the gauge said,ie well down on power!

Razor2001

Deep you mean DeltaDash was showing it running 1 bar on gears 1 - 3 ? and 1.1 - 1.3 in gears 4 - 6 ?

Also, do you have any more info on this aquamist, I have been on their site but I am still confused. I have a very hot climate such as yours and would love something that helped cool things down.
Is the aquamist easy to install (ie: can a basic mechanic do it are there any dangers / downfalls, roughly what price are we looking at ?

Cheers,
Ray

Razor2001

lol...obviously I thought you were someone else, just realized that you are in London ie: not a hot climate

RON

I seem to remember Mike Tuickwood at AScoobymania changing the brakes for Ap's and also the wheels, and savings stacks of weight, should help the handling aswell being all um=nsprung weight.
Ron.

Razor2001

Hey Deep,

I noticed that the aquamist products don't come with a holding tank....do you just attach the components to the existing I/C spray holding tank or do you have to get one of the big ones for the trunk (ie: I only have the small one in the engine area) ?

Also, does it matter what quality water you are putting in your engine...can you just put plain tap water in...will any deposits, minerals in tap water mess up your engine ?

Cheers,
Ray

Deep Singh

Hi Ray,you replied to your own post at the same time as I was,hence me reposting some of your suggestions.If only London was as warm as Nassau mate,maybe you thought I was in Dehli!
Seriously though.Car was only making 1 bar in 1-4 for some reason.
As for Aquamist I've only been looking into it for the last few weeks,though people have been running it for some time.This is what I've learnt
1)Spraying droplet water into the cylinder means a lowering of combustion temp due to the latent heat of vaporisation absorbed by the water to be vaporised.This drop in temp can be used to add a margin of safety or as a tool to push things further.In England I've been told that during cold weather it may actually drop BHP by a few(c'ant remember the explanation) but in summer will gain a few(plus add safety).However,with a mappable(Ecu) system you can manipulate to gain all the time. In your climate should always be a gain,never deficit
2)Many systems available.Simplest is pressure triggered,this will inject the same amount of water no matter what boost/rpm,this is not optimum.Too much water when not needed,and not enough when really needed will rob power.The 2s system has a 'brain' that can map the water injection to rpm/boost.This is the one I'm getting.
3)Any water can be used,though hard water may clog the jet nozzles,however the better options have a facility for warning you when this has happens and then you simply remove them and clean.
4)You can run it from your washer bottle,or have a seperate boot mounted tank(approx 15 litres),this is what I intend to do.I've been told to add 50/50 water to ethanol to add even more cooling effect.Again the better options have a sensor to warn you when this is running dry.
My car after the Ecutek is running like a dream,its far far superior to the way it was.A different machine,a different driving experience.Still on a very conservative map.I'm guessing now a bit
but if you installed WI and ran OB,whilst monitoring det and EGTS is there any reason why you could'nt try running my initial map?
Have a word with Pete after Xmas,I'm happy for him to use my car to try and recreate your conditions to see if they can come up with a base map for you.This would obviously be easier in summer but we d'ont always have those.Maybe someone can come with an idea how we can recreate the conditions.Hope that helps,Deep

RT

Hi Deep,

IIRC, your car is a MY01 JDM STI7 right? Did you get a TEK3 remap done? Would you be able to furnish some details - was some ign timing taken out to run a little safer?

Cheers.

Deep Singh

Yes JDM STi7 made Oct 2000.Not sure if classed a Tek 3 as base map used from Ecutek and then modified for mine.I may be talking ****e but the mapper said it was advancing(itself) by 6 degrees.Still running rich,ie on the no det map AFRs of 9.5-9.7.
I'll try and get someone to post by delta dash next year.Are you detting aswell and hence assuming that you have to much advance? I thought the ECU would only allow advance if it detected no det?

Razor2001

Deep,

Thanks for your post I am hoping that Pete over at ScoobySport will be able to supply me with a safe plug and play ecu upgrade for my JDM STi-7 that is made for 98 RON and a hot, humid climate.....that would be awesome !

As for the waterinjection it sounds really good and I am going to look into it further.

Thanks again for your post !

Cheers,
Ray

RT

Hey Deep,

Think our cars are very close in age, mine was also 3rd Q 2000 manufacturered.

I'm not det'ting per se when temps are normal (taking traffic jam heat-soak and 38degC afternoons out of the question). But I do get a "trinkle" now and then (2 greens, 2 greens+1amber) with WOT, 1.1bar boost. It just flicks up with the 1st WOT application and goes away on subsequent gear changes. Believe BobRawle has posted about this transcient det before, and IIRC said that it could be caused by some oil vapour.

Anyway, my WI plans are basically to give me some extra margin on hot afternoons. Going hand in hand ideally would be a remap of some sort. Trouble is, ECUTEK mappers aren't in abundance around here. :P What nozzle size are you running on your WI system?

Cheers.

EDIT:
Ray, looks like you and me are in pretty much the same situation. I'm half hoping that a mild WI setup would compensate for our 98RON fuel, and that a remap won't really be needed. Hopefully, not too much power is loss with the WI.

[Edited by RT - 12/29/2002 3:51:49 PM]

Rusty Festa

How fat are you?

New year diet after all that Christmas turkey

Deep Singh

RT have'nt actually got the WI yet but its a definate as soon as things open up again in the New Year.If there are no Aquamist suppliers in your part of the world try mark@lateralperformance.com(or co.uk?).

RT

Tks Deep. There are Aquamist suppliers, that is not the problem (I already have the 1s kit). The problem is ECUTEK tuners...
:P

Deep Singh

RT,why not send Pat or Bob Rawle a return ticket(circa £600?) put them up in your place for a few days and get them to half the fee(ie £300) as they can enjoy the country for a few days.Worth a try?????

Razor2001

I am seriously thinking about the WI. Please keep us all informed as to how your WI kits work and how hard it was to install and map if you purchased a mappable kit.

Cheers,
Ray

RT

Tks Deep, that did cross my mind. Even better if I can get tog with a few other local owners who are interested in ECUTEK. Splitting the cost would make it very viable.

Deep Singh

Did I mention I'm an Ecutek mapper?