wot am i lookin @ 1/4 mile with this spec:
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#17
Scooby Regular
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Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 25,565
Likes: 2
From: 1600cc's of twin scroll fun :)
Miss Scooby,
the first thing id do is get a knock link and a set of gauges to see what your car is doing (the knock link to detect if your engine is detting due to the full decat and filter) and the gauges to see what boost your pushing.
Id also invest in some octane booster (deffo!) as i take it you have an sti v4? so it would need a decent octane (these cars are designed to run 100 ron fuel, 95 or normal unleaded to us, will kill your engine and leave you with a rather expensive bill for a new one (a few k for a new engine from japan or 4k+ for a rebuild).
Im not scare mongering but with those mods your car has, id get those mods sooner rather than later! (the knocklink first!!!) (available from jap innovations in oldham, nr manchester).
Tony
the first thing id do is get a knock link and a set of gauges to see what your car is doing (the knock link to detect if your engine is detting due to the full decat and filter) and the gauges to see what boost your pushing.
Id also invest in some octane booster (deffo!) as i take it you have an sti v4? so it would need a decent octane (these cars are designed to run 100 ron fuel, 95 or normal unleaded to us, will kill your engine and leave you with a rather expensive bill for a new one (a few k for a new engine from japan or 4k+ for a rebuild).
Im not scare mongering but with those mods your car has, id get those mods sooner rather than later! (the knocklink first!!!) (available from jap innovations in oldham, nr manchester).
Tony
#18
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 25,565
Likes: 2
From: 1600cc's of twin scroll fun :)
Miss Scooby,
I should state that you only would have had one cat anyway on a JDM car, only uk cars had 2 as standard (yours would have just been the downpipe, uk cars have the downpipe and centre section )
Tony
I should state that you only would have had one cat anyway on a JDM car, only uk cars had 2 as standard (yours would have just been the downpipe, uk cars have the downpipe and centre section )
Tony
#19
Thanks very much 4 ur help
Knocklink + gauges seem to be the general opinion from other threads too. Does any1 know anywhere slightly closer to home (dont mind travelling 100-200 miles) to buy & fit all this stuff?
Where can I buy the correct Octane Booster too?
It's a 1998 R reg, I was told V5 when I bought it, but discovered dealer who I bought it off has a cr#p idea of after-sales-service, so they're no help!
Has DCCD, blitz induction kit, blitz dump valve, blitz turbo timer, 6x4 oval exhaust with de-cat pipe. Any other suggestions??
Also has Tarox 6 pot calipers on front, but standard Subaru brakes on rear - should I upgrade rear brakes also???
Once again, thanks 4 ur info. 1st Subaru & need all the help I can get!
PS: It may be my 1st scooby, but it's my baby & i love it 2 bits!!!! (hence wanting to take care of it)
Cheers
edited to say - running on Optimax now.
[Edited by MISS SCOOBY STI - 10/18/2003 2:21:07 AM]
Knocklink + gauges seem to be the general opinion from other threads too. Does any1 know anywhere slightly closer to home (dont mind travelling 100-200 miles) to buy & fit all this stuff?
Where can I buy the correct Octane Booster too?
It's a 1998 R reg, I was told V5 when I bought it, but discovered dealer who I bought it off has a cr#p idea of after-sales-service, so they're no help!
Has DCCD, blitz induction kit, blitz dump valve, blitz turbo timer, 6x4 oval exhaust with de-cat pipe. Any other suggestions??
Also has Tarox 6 pot calipers on front, but standard Subaru brakes on rear - should I upgrade rear brakes also???
Once again, thanks 4 ur info. 1st Subaru & need all the help I can get!
PS: It may be my 1st scooby, but it's my baby & i love it 2 bits!!!! (hence wanting to take care of it)
Cheers
edited to say - running on Optimax now.
[Edited by MISS SCOOBY STI - 10/18/2003 2:21:07 AM]
#20
No wonder your times are better than mine with all those fancy bits. I'd get it checked out on a rolling road just for peace of mind. Did this with mine only to find out the maf was gubbed and the jap chip was making the car detonate, could've been nasty. I'm sure yours is fine but it's worth confirming this. You didn't get your car from calder did you?
Oh if your at crail in november say hi, Silver sti with BBJ plate.
Oh if your at crail in november say hi, Silver sti with BBJ plate.
#21
I was recently @ Elvington in the ScoobyShootout when P20SPD did 12.1 in his Wagon
I have a simillar spec
Yours
PPP
Green air filter
P1 clutch
liightened & balanced fly wheel
(17" Prodrive P1s)
Mine
PPP
Standard Air-Filter
Standard Clutch
Standard Flywheel
17" Prodrive P1s
My other differences are s/braces front up & down + Leda suspension and solid drop-links, the only effect of which might be to reduce body-flex and a certain amount of squat under acceleration, which should aid traction a tadge.
The car is a Wagon and had done 74K miles up until that day.
13.5 @ around 96 was my best, with a couple of fluffers as follows
1 - 13.88 @ 97
2 - 13.75 @
3 - 13.50 @ (I'm estimating 96 based on the rest of the runs)
4 - 13.69 @ 96
5 - 14.08 @ 96
6 - 13.62 @
7 - 14.49 @ 89 (missed a change )
8 - 13.69 @
9 - 13.75 @ 96
10 - 14.41 @ 96 (changing up earlier 'cos I was playing about & seeing if a change at 6k made any difference to getting the boost up & times down - it didn't )
11 - 14.09 @ 97 (Ditto)
So taking the fluffer and the last 2 out, av time is around 13.7/13.75
Dunno what differences your filter/flywheel might make if any. Clutch minimal.
I've also got a quick-shift & am reasonably mechanically sympathetic
Let me know how you do!
I have a simillar spec
Yours
PPP
Green air filter
P1 clutch
liightened & balanced fly wheel
(17" Prodrive P1s)
Mine
PPP
Standard Air-Filter
Standard Clutch
Standard Flywheel
17" Prodrive P1s
My other differences are s/braces front up & down + Leda suspension and solid drop-links, the only effect of which might be to reduce body-flex and a certain amount of squat under acceleration, which should aid traction a tadge.
The car is a Wagon and had done 74K miles up until that day.
13.5 @ around 96 was my best, with a couple of fluffers as follows
1 - 13.88 @ 97
2 - 13.75 @
3 - 13.50 @ (I'm estimating 96 based on the rest of the runs)
4 - 13.69 @ 96
5 - 14.08 @ 96
6 - 13.62 @
7 - 14.49 @ 89 (missed a change )
8 - 13.69 @
9 - 13.75 @ 96
10 - 14.41 @ 96 (changing up earlier 'cos I was playing about & seeing if a change at 6k made any difference to getting the boost up & times down - it didn't )
11 - 14.09 @ 97 (Ditto)
So taking the fluffer and the last 2 out, av time is around 13.7/13.75
Dunno what differences your filter/flywheel might make if any. Clutch minimal.
I've also got a quick-shift & am reasonably mechanically sympathetic
Let me know how you do!
#23
miss scooby sti,
dont upgrade rear brakes, two pots that come on sti type rs are the best standard rear brakes available on the impreza and can easily lock the wheels espaecially with weight transfer.
Depending on where you are in scotland, there are plenty of nice like mindede people up there who will fit your knocklink (ESSENTIAL) for you.
Look for john banks, andy f, T-UK, John S to name a few. all nice uys all who know that they are doing.
You can order the unit from brdevelopments and it will be there the next day.
I would look at what blitz air filter it is and consider removing it, as certain ages of these had very good performance at the expense of filtration. Many people found dust build up on the inside of their inlet system.
If you thought you were buying a 5 and got a 4, I would look at taling it back or at least demanding a refund as the dealer misrepresented the product he was selling. There should be quit e a price difference as the engine and electrical system vary enormously between phase 1 and phase 2.
dont upgrade rear brakes, two pots that come on sti type rs are the best standard rear brakes available on the impreza and can easily lock the wheels espaecially with weight transfer.
Depending on where you are in scotland, there are plenty of nice like mindede people up there who will fit your knocklink (ESSENTIAL) for you.
Look for john banks, andy f, T-UK, John S to name a few. all nice uys all who know that they are doing.
You can order the unit from brdevelopments and it will be there the next day.
I would look at what blitz air filter it is and consider removing it, as certain ages of these had very good performance at the expense of filtration. Many people found dust build up on the inside of their inlet system.
If you thought you were buying a 5 and got a 4, I would look at taling it back or at least demanding a refund as the dealer misrepresented the product he was selling. There should be quit e a price difference as the engine and electrical system vary enormously between phase 1 and phase 2.
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