You guys make me paranoid :)
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Ok then,
I haven't even taken delivery of my scoob yet (12 days and counting) and I'm paranoid!
Right, it's a MY99 UK turbo wagon, how dodgy, truthfuly, is the MAF sensor and what can i do to try and prevent the bugger from failing and taking out my engine. Is there anything that i can fit to monitor it too as from what i have read, the MAF sensor is the only real bugbear on the MY99
Any help in putting my mind at ease would be much appreciated
Cheers
James
[Edited by little_idiot - 2/2/2004 10:48:16 AM]
I haven't even taken delivery of my scoob yet (12 days and counting) and I'm paranoid!
Right, it's a MY99 UK turbo wagon, how dodgy, truthfuly, is the MAF sensor and what can i do to try and prevent the bugger from failing and taking out my engine. Is there anything that i can fit to monitor it too as from what i have read, the MAF sensor is the only real bugbear on the MY99
Any help in putting my mind at ease would be much appreciated
Cheers
James
[Edited by little_idiot - 2/2/2004 10:48:16 AM]
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Cheers PTMW
is it an easy job to fit or is worth having it done by a dealer, also, what causes the thing to fail.
And finally, does anyone have a workshop manual on CD
Ta
James
is it an easy job to fit or is worth having it done by a dealer, also, what causes the thing to fail.
And finally, does anyone have a workshop manual on CD
Ta
James
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well i hadmy car nearly five years.. and never thought anything about it!.. don't worry.
Phil
Phil
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sounds like a knocklink would be a good investment then, pitty they are ugly looking, not the most discreet of black boxes.
How easy are they to fit/what's involved?
James
How easy are they to fit/what's involved?
James
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I've only heard of it mentioned for the MY99's, mainly when fitting an induction kit (i think i'll only change the zorst), but i'm sure someone on here will be able to tell us.
AFAIK the my99's & 00's have the same engine
James
AFAIK the my99's & 00's have the same engine
James
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MY00 & MY99 have the same MAF sensor
l_i
Try extending the LEDs like I did, then the box can go under the dash. To install is a case of +ve & -ve ignition controlled (cigarette lighter socket + suitable earth) & wiring sensor through bulkhead & attaching to engine-block under i/cooler. Do a search on installation & Ozzy has a good website someplace with it fully described.
Pic of "remote" install
![](http://www.goorey.com/ptmw/link1.jpg)
Other options as wide as your imagination
l_i
Try extending the LEDs like I did, then the box can go under the dash. To install is a case of +ve & -ve ignition controlled (cigarette lighter socket + suitable earth) & wiring sensor through bulkhead & attaching to engine-block under i/cooler. Do a search on installation & Ozzy has a good website someplace with it fully described.
Pic of "remote" install
![](http://www.goorey.com/ptmw/link1.jpg)
Other options as wide as your imagination
![Wink](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/wink.gif)
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Is the knocklink the only device any good at picking up issues or can you get something thats designed to fit in the dash?
Heard of that SECS device but not sure whether its capable of being a knock sensor?
[Edited by sc00by-d00by - 2/2/2004 11:50:07 AM]
Heard of that SECS device but not sure whether its capable of being a knock sensor?
[Edited by sc00by-d00by - 2/2/2004 11:50:07 AM]
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99's and 00's share the same MAF.
Fitting is a 2 min job if you have the correct Tarox bit.
Have a read here so you don't get ripped off.
Knocklinks are a little more tricky as its a intercooler off job.
It can be done without removing the intercooler but you need hands that can turn through 180 degrees![Big Grin](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Its simply a sensor thats bolted to the engine then wires are run from the sensor through the bulkhead to a display unit which is fitted into / on the dash. Power is taken from the cig lighter / stereo etc and jobs done.
Brief description, I know, but if your ok with wiring and stripping bits of engine down then its a easy DIY job.
Chris
Fitting is a 2 min job if you have the correct Tarox bit.
Have a read here so you don't get ripped off.
Knocklinks are a little more tricky as its a intercooler off job.
It can be done without removing the intercooler but you need hands that can turn through 180 degrees
![Big Grin](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Its simply a sensor thats bolted to the engine then wires are run from the sensor through the bulkhead to a display unit which is fitted into / on the dash. Power is taken from the cig lighter / stereo etc and jobs done.
Brief description, I know, but if your ok with wiring and stripping bits of engine down then its a easy DIY job.
Chris
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Think i'd rather have it fitted by someone who knows what they are doing then ![Smile](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
is there somewhere up north that can supply and fit these little beasties.
PTMW, you got any piccys of your wagon, I think it's pretty similar to mine which i wont get to see for 12 whole long long days
ta muchly
James
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is there somewhere up north that can supply and fit these little beasties.
PTMW, you got any piccys of your wagon, I think it's pretty similar to mine which i wont get to see for 12 whole long long days
ta muchly
James
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Like you m8, I'd heard nightmare stories about maf sensor failures on MY99's, and until last week, never experienced any problem myself.
I had my 75k service last week, and the ecu was reset as normal. When I went to drive home in the evening, taking it nice and easy as the engine was cold, I came to a set of lights, and the engine revs were hunting to find a level! At the next set of lights it stalled! Never done that in nearly a year of ownership, so I realised something was not right. Called prosport when I got home, who said it may be the maf, and to bring it back nice and easy the next day, and stay off boost!
So, back the next day, new maf fitted for £77 all in, problem solved![Big Grin](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
As an aside, it does seem to cackle and pop more on the overrun now, is that normal. I dont mind, as it sounds terrific![Big Grin](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
chris
I had my 75k service last week, and the ecu was reset as normal. When I went to drive home in the evening, taking it nice and easy as the engine was cold, I came to a set of lights, and the engine revs were hunting to find a level! At the next set of lights it stalled! Never done that in nearly a year of ownership, so I realised something was not right. Called prosport when I got home, who said it may be the maf, and to bring it back nice and easy the next day, and stay off boost!
So, back the next day, new maf fitted for £77 all in, problem solved
![Big Grin](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
As an aside, it does seem to cackle and pop more on the overrun now, is that normal. I dont mind, as it sounds terrific
![Big Grin](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
chris
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Yes Chris, that's not unexpected. The correct airflow readings will have resulted in the ECU putting a little more fuel in, and so you'll have a little more finding its way down the exhaust stack, where it's burning.
The SECS is capable of showing you whether or not the ECU is employing any knock correction, but the knock detection (especially on the older shape cars) isn't sensitive enough, and often misses det, especially at high engine speeds. The SECS doesn't give you a realtime indication of detonation either, which is what you really need.
The KnockLink (or the new KnockLink Digital) is the best, most reliable way of detecting and warning of det. If you see a big red LED lighting up, you will back off!
Heard of that SECS device but not sure whether its capable of being a knock sensor?
The KnockLink (or the new KnockLink Digital) is the best, most reliable way of detecting and warning of det. If you see a big red LED lighting up, you will back off!
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