hi all picked up my new scooby today oh my gosh its awesome everyting i ever dreamed it wuld be. already had three other sooby drivers wave and flash me. does any one know the best way to take off the chrome surau letters off the boot with out damagin the paintwork??? your opinions would be much apreciated cos i gotta clean the ar53 end up a bit


cheers peeps

Andy

 

Heat with a hairdryer to soften the adhesive, gently prise off the letters, use something like Autoglym tar remover to remove the residue then a good polish.
Job done

 

Pour on boiling water (heats up the glue behind) then gently prise them off

 

Better to use strong cotton/nylon thread to "saw" behind the letters leaving the minimum of foam adhesive pad. Then use WD40 to remove the remaining adhesive and polish/wax to finish and protect.

 

Heat up using hairdryer then use strong cotton thread or better still dental floss to remove. Then use any of other methods suggested above to remove glue residue.

Allan

 

cheers all ill be dong it first thing in the morning my first mod to my first scoobs just need a nice exhaust and a dump valve next. dont think ive ever been so pleased with a motor in my life and ive only owned it a day

 

Did this mod today, poured boiling water over them and used the inner lip of an aerosol can lid to prise the letters off. The Autoglym tar remover didn't do the trick removing the glue so used more hot water with a terry towel to rub away the glue.

 

You've already got the best dump valve for the car fitted as standard. Change it for a chav valve at your peril. No performance benefit, possible performance loss in certain situations and potential for engine damage and huge repair bills

 

Well said that man, was going to myself but didn't have the flame suit to hand

 

yeh i thought a dump valve would give at least a minor performance increase no?? even if i got a decent blitz one?? if it could damage the car then ill take your advice and leave it. whats the point i a dump valve then???

 

There is no point in upgrading to an atmospheric (ptsssh) one. Your car is already fitted with a re-circulating dump valve which by it's very name re-circulates the air in the induction system as apposed the atmospheric valves which dump the air to atmosphere. Your car is mapped for the standard unit and upgrading the valve will confuse the ECU as it will be adding fuel to cater for this re-circulated air, if your fancy new valve has just puffed the fuel will be washing out you bores resulting in premature engine wear.

Leave well alone until your running 400+ bhp and have a map to suit

 

As Nixon says, until you're running serious mods above 400bhp and very high boost levels then the standard recirc is the best option. Once at the higher boost levels then the OE plastic item can leak under pressure, but it is absolutely fine upto 400 or so. A chav VTA valve may sound nice, but there are many risks associated. On gear changes, the vented unwanted air is currently fed back into the induction system to balance up fuelling which is determined by the AFR sensor. If that air is unexpectedly "dumped" out of the system then a brief period of overfuelling occurs. This can have many effects. Firstly, unburnt fuel can contaminate and prematurely deteriorate your cats, and the fuel can also ignite in the hot exhaust causing backfires (pops and bangs) which can shatter the cats. Most worryingly though, the unburt fuel can under compression be pushed past the piston rings, removing the microfilm of lubricating oil and causing engine damage. Over time, this penetration of petrol into the lower engine can thin the sump oil down unless regular oil chages are carried out. The car will also have a very jerky behaviour on gear changes and lift-offs.

If it's the sound you're after, then this can be achieved with the OE DV by removing the ram-air scoop, inner wing resonator, and fitting a free flowing panel filter (Green/K&N/JR Racing). This simple mod takes about 1/2 hour and costs little, and yet supplies the engine with a plentiful supply of cool air whilst allowing both the dump and induction noise to be heard, although not as loudly as a VTA and IK. Have a read of THIS.

Before you ask, an induction kit is also a bad idea. IMHO by far the best mods to start with on any scoob are suspension and brake mods, in particular the rear ARB and links along with good pads, fluid and lines. The biggest performance advantages I have ever achieved have been through professional driver training, and that won't affect your warranty, insurance or resale values, and is taken with you into every car you'll ever own

 

well i think youve just convinced me. right so im definatly gonna stay away from the dump valve just wanted the sond but a sound aint worth damaging my sweet new motor for nixon the cars lovely just wana drive it all the time best 8gs ive ever spent scoobys are the bollox

 

Removing the standard letters at the moment to be replace with some stickers, but forgot to measure the distantance between the letter S and the the left hand brake light. Anyone know this - Or do I have to start getting the tape measure out and calculate it ?

Cheers

Richard

 

On new-age Scoobs the letters are 40mm apart and 40mm wide, except the "A" which is 44 and so needs a 38mm gap either side. When I refitted mine I used a white cotton line to get a level between the bottom inner corners of the clear part of the rear clusters, and then measured and marked the centre with a marker onto the cotton. Then mark 20mm to the left and right of that centre, and at 40mm increments thereafter until you have a place for each letter. Obviously the "A" will straddle the marks by 2mm either side. This must be a good method, as Sticky (the graphics God) couldn't find fault when he inspected my handywork, much to his frustration

 

Cheers for that Dave, All sorted now
Do you have a e-mail for Sticky - tried a search on that username - got nothing, Not 100% sure about my curent stickers, like to see what Sticky could offer

Richard

 

Richard, YHPM