knocklink instructions? Anyone help
#1
knocklink instructions? Anyone help
I've just got a knocklink installed but both green and amber warning lights come on under hard acceleration. I think it needs adjusting, but I can't find the instructions.
Does anyone have a soft copy of them they could email me, or a website where I can read them???
Thanks
David
Does anyone have a soft copy of them they could email me, or a website where I can read them???
Thanks
David
#3
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Hang on a minute?? So this device is just adjusted until it shows no problems?? So how do you determine weather or not there was a problem in the first place? I'm confused!
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it doesn't matter if all lights come on under hard acceleration, thats normal, when it starts repeatidly flicking up the lights you have detonation and you are about to break your car unless you back off.
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Originally Posted by wah
as far as I know it supposed to be cranked up to full on the box itself, well mine is
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Originally Posted by Jamescsti
Just waiting for an explanation from PS Lewis now................
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Originally Posted by David_Harden
I've just got a knocklink installed but both green and amber warning lights come on under hard acceleration. I think it needs adjusting, but I can't find the instructions
David
David
On the outside of the tyres would be good.
How much are shares in cocklinks anyway?
I could be making money out of you numpties!
Ted.
#11
The knocklink is is ideal when fitted to a completely standard car which you know the manufacturer has laid down the guidelines for that car to always to be run safe. (IE) within its limits.
The Knocklink is to be set so only the warning signals come on under hard driving. Then once you start to modify the car you can keep a check on that if the Knock Link throws up the KNOCK Signal is that you are either beyond safe limits and the vehicle needs further fine tuning to rectify the problem
However "like us all" if you install a knocklink after you have modified the car then you will never know what the safe limits were and to what sensitivity to set it up too. This is when you need to get your car setup, mapped, modified by a reputable tuner who advises you that the car is now running safe and if it ever knocks in the future that there is something a miss. IE incorrect octane fuel, fuel starvation, air intake issues,temps, boost problems, and a number of other problems which could cause detonation.
Otherwise by just setting the sensitivity to match others or whatever you think is correct is worthless and you may aswell not have it all. Otherwise all this will do is distract you and make you very nervous in planting that throttle.
This is why this is known as the InFamous " COCKLINK".
ASHYV
The Knocklink is to be set so only the warning signals come on under hard driving. Then once you start to modify the car you can keep a check on that if the Knock Link throws up the KNOCK Signal is that you are either beyond safe limits and the vehicle needs further fine tuning to rectify the problem
However "like us all" if you install a knocklink after you have modified the car then you will never know what the safe limits were and to what sensitivity to set it up too. This is when you need to get your car setup, mapped, modified by a reputable tuner who advises you that the car is now running safe and if it ever knocks in the future that there is something a miss. IE incorrect octane fuel, fuel starvation, air intake issues,temps, boost problems, and a number of other problems which could cause detonation.
Otherwise by just setting the sensitivity to match others or whatever you think is correct is worthless and you may aswell not have it all. Otherwise all this will do is distract you and make you very nervous in planting that throttle.
This is why this is known as the InFamous " COCKLINK".
ASHYV
#13
Knocklink fitting has been covered many times on here - just do a search in General Technical (doing it on all of the forums just brings up lots of PSlewis's irrelevant krap)
Sensitivity should be at full : if you see any more activity past the first couple of lights at any point then normally this is indicating a problem but occasionally it is just background 'noise' or something like the heat shield rattle being picked up.
I've a 95 WRK, unmodified, that has the KL set at full and only very, very occasionally, during really hard acceleration, especially it seems when ambient temp is very cold (greater boost ?) do I get the 3rd light flickering.
I've never had a light past that point show.
Could also be a poorer batch of Optimax.
That just indicates to me that there is something causing a tiny bit of knock/det and I can then drive accordingly and to me, the Knocklink has helped make me aware of a possible problem and is a positive fitment to the car.
Sensitivity should be at full : if you see any more activity past the first couple of lights at any point then normally this is indicating a problem but occasionally it is just background 'noise' or something like the heat shield rattle being picked up.
I've a 95 WRK, unmodified, that has the KL set at full and only very, very occasionally, during really hard acceleration, especially it seems when ambient temp is very cold (greater boost ?) do I get the 3rd light flickering.
I've never had a light past that point show.
Could also be a poorer batch of Optimax.
That just indicates to me that there is something causing a tiny bit of knock/det and I can then drive accordingly and to me, the Knocklink has helped make me aware of a possible problem and is a positive fitment to the car.
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You only dare have this thread because he's on holiday.
This thread completely proves to me that what Pete says is right; that most cocklinks are bought as a "max power" accessory to have "Kitt"-style flashing LEDs in the cockpit.
Even NS04 has one now.
#15
Jeez, I wish I'd never asked!
I've done some searching on knocklinks on the forum. I assume PSlewis is that bloke who goes berserk with his vociferous hatred of knocklinks and all those who say they are a must have?
The posts to this thread raise more questions than answers but this always seems to be the case with knocklinks.
Strike's comment that it doesn't matter if all the lights come on under acceleration doesn't make sense to me. I thought that detonation of an engine will occur under high-load conditions, i.e. hard acceleration and I thought that's what the knocklink is trying to warn you about??
A5HYV's comments make perfect sense, but he's right. I've got a modified car. I bought it modified so setting up the knocklink without the mods is not an option. I will be getting the ECU remapped soon. I think it needs it because the Dastek was tuned with a different engine to the one that's in the car now. That's partly why I'm keen to have the knocklink, but it seems it's not going to provide the safety I want until I get the remapping done.
So basically I've no idea how to adjust the sensitivity or whether I have a problem or not.
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Once it's wired up, which is really simple, the little screw thats visible through a small hle in the case needs turning fully anti clockwise (i think!!!) you then drive at 75%throttle, and if none of the lights flicker then adjust the screw until the first light just glimmers....... thats it....
I have mine set on the most sensitive setting, and i still cannot get any lights to even flicker, let alone see the red one.... the only time the lights ever do anything is when the starter motor is engaged......
I hope you can get the gist of what i've said, i have the instructions in my car if you'd like me to scan them and mail it to you....??
I have mine set on the most sensitive setting, and i still cannot get any lights to even flicker, let alone see the red one.... the only time the lights ever do anything is when the starter motor is engaged......
I hope you can get the gist of what i've said, i have the instructions in my car if you'd like me to scan them and mail it to you....??
#20
Originally Posted by RON
Once it's wired up, which is really simple, the little screw thats visible through a small hle in the case needs turning fully anti clockwise (i think!!!) you then drive at 75%throttle, and if none of the lights flicker then adjust the screw until the first light just glimmers....... thats it....
I have mine set on the most sensitive setting, and i still cannot get any lights to even flicker, let alone see the red one.... the only time the lights ever do anything is when the starter motor is engaged......
I hope you can get the gist of what i've said, i have the instructions in my car if you'd like me to scan them and mail it to you....??
I have mine set on the most sensitive setting, and i still cannot get any lights to even flicker, let alone see the red one.... the only time the lights ever do anything is when the starter motor is engaged......
I hope you can get the gist of what i've said, i have the instructions in my car if you'd like me to scan them and mail it to you....??
David
#21
Originally Posted by stevem2k
Set the sensitivity to max and treat that as correct until you have it mapped and it is correlated with det cans.
HTH
Steve
HTH
Steve
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Originally Posted by David_Harden
Strike's comment that it doesn't matter if all the lights come on under acceleration doesn't make sense to me. I thought that detonation of an engine will occur under high-load conditions, i.e. hard acceleration and I thought that's what the knocklink is trying to warn you about??
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Might get a cocklink on my new RB5 for the first mod, so mates wont keep wantin me to redline it everywhere and i can tell them they will have to wait till i get a good batch of fuel.
#24
Originally Posted by _strike_
Exactly mate it does under hard acceleration, and when it repeatidley does it your in troubled waters, if it does it when you first give it stick dont worry unless it flicks up the lights all the time.
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On my ibiza i have one due to the nitrous, its ok if the big one flashes up when giving it ****, but if they flash up the line in split second intervals its bad, however if they stay on all the time.....you've lost me....anyone?
#26
Originally Posted by _strike_
On my ibiza i have one due to the nitrous, its ok if the big one flashes up when giving it ****, but if they flash up the line in split second intervals its bad, however if they stay on all the time.....you've lost me....anyone?
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Max setting, shouldn't show much more than a flicker of the first, or perhaps second green (which denotes normal engine noise) under WOT. Agree with the above that trying to guess at calibration defeats the point of having it.
Ns04
Ns04
#28
Excellent piece of kit, saved my a$$ a couple of times, never have any activity, i had red flickering up on 2 occasions, everytime its my maf sensor on its way out, safe to say i would have no way of knowing that my car is detting otherwise, just wish i had a knocklink in my old MY98 which burnt a hole in piston 3 and cost me a fortune to repair, if i had a knocklink at that time it would have warned me to back off like it does on my MY99
excellent piece of kit..
excellent piece of kit..
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Originally Posted by Bubba po
You only dare have this thread because he's on holiday.
This thread completely proves to me that what Pete says is right; that most cocklinks are bought as a "max power" accessory to have "Kitt"-style flashing LEDs in the cockpit.
Even NS04 has one now.
Seriously though, I don't fiddle with it such that it tells me what I want to hear! It's on max and it'll stay on max.
You wouldn't buy a smoke detector and then bung up the sensor because your **** kept setting it off would you?
Ns04