Hi everyone, first time on and must
say pretty impressed with the level of info.
My question is has anyone reset their ecu ??
Reason I'm asking is just picked up an 03 WRX and
have no idea if the previous owner ran it on SUL.
Have heard that by resetting the ECU, filling up with
'the rocket fuel', drive the car 'briskly' and the ecu adjusts
itself to the octane rating - some have noticed increase in
performance, anyone agree ???

Cheers,

Craig.

 

Your ECU as a "learn" facility, just give it a few miles and you'll see.

 

Cheers mate. Filled up with that v power last night, noticed a small
difference. Thought that to get full potential you'd have to do
this resetting thing But if you rekon the ecu adjusts automatically
then it doesn't get much easier than that !!

Craig.

 

ECU-resets are for older cars.

 

second that simon. mine needs a reset after getting the decat on, cant find the green bloody connectors though, only the black... poo

what year did the learning facility come into place on scoobs? like what the newbie fellow above was on about?

andy

p.s. enjoy the costs incurred of running the best car ever produced!!!!

 

Thanks for the welcome I'm sure I'll be on frequently asking
daft questions.

Craig.

 

probably mate, most of my 800 odd posts on here have been daft questions, ask simon, he loves it...

ahem 900 odd posts

 

General opinion is that they all "learn". Just that the newer cars learn quicker.

So for the older technology it could take 1000's of miles to learn a new fuel and you could short cut with an ECU reset.

With newer technology on newer cars it only takes minutes to learn so an ECU reset is of little benefit.

 

They do not all learn; thats simply incorrect. The ignition advance retards when knock is deteced only; there is no way for it to advance again. MY99 onwards cars learn but the ECUs are far from impressive: New Age cars are far superior.

Andy, leave it overnight witht he battery disconnected; thatll do it too.


Simon

 

cant mate my toad alarm will go mental on me... cat 1 alarm immobilizer jobby, aftermarket.

andy

 

if it is a CAT1 it should not do that at all!

 

Am I right in thinking that whilst a standard bugeye ECU will adjust up and down pretty quickly in reaction to different rated fuels, it will only go up to a maximum of 97RON? So if I use Shell VPower which I believe is 99RON, am I never going to be getting the full potential of the fuel - in other words the final 2RON's worth.

Can anyone answer this question?

and also if I need a special remap to set it to 99RON fuel, I assume I will have to stick rigidly to 99RON VPower so as not to muck the ECU up again - or if it remains set permanently to expect 99RON fuel, there is a risk of bad detonation etc.

 

right so basically i can leave the car at work overnight, unplug the battery and the alarm wont go off, as i arm and lock the car with the same fob button? whats the crack then, i unplug the battery first then "lock" the car? im not too sure...

and if i leave it overnight without a battery wired up, if someone tried to break into my car would it even be locked or alarmed??? as even during the day i have no garage to store it in...

andy

 

I would think your car would def still lock
with the good old way of using the key. But
I would be sure it wouldn't be alarmed.

 

Good point mate I was kind of driving at that question. In theory
you would always have to fill up with SUL ??? Surely can't be the case

 

chocolate can you put the alarm into Valet mode (like cliffords) if you can out into valet mode, disconnect battery then reconnect and the cat will still be in valet mode.
Like i said this works with my clifford alarm/immobiliser system.
Car WILL NOT BE ALARMED/IMMOBILISED.

 

one of the reasons i got the alarm (which is a toad) is because the central locking when i bought the car was buggered... i had to shut the front door the open the back door to lock the front from the inside and then lock the back from the inside and shut the back door if you get me...


andy

 

Not on your car; but all Phase1 cars only retard. They dont deal well with the detonation that they do detect too.

 

Well, if thats true - and I'll take your word for it Simon - I'm SHOCKED

Pete

 

Best way to reset 03> ECU (without software) is to disconnect battery for 30mins. Although the newage ecu's react very quickly when retarding they advance slower. e.g. if you fill with duff fuel it'll take a few tankfulls of decent stuff before performance is back to normal. Therefore resetting can be worthwhile.

 

Pete, I was so shocked I almost bought a KnockLink !

 

There, that's told him, the Werther's-sucking coffin-dodger.

 

> They do not all learn; thats simply incorrect.

That's a bit harsh Mr GC8. If I'd said from MY99 they all learn it would have been right would it not? As the original post was about an MY03 car I count that as a spot on response. I was close and my point was right, worth doing an ECU reset on older cars but not newer cars.

With the little I know about ECU's and the zero I know about classic cars I'm impressed I was that close to being right.

 

It wasnt intended to be. Consider though, that you appeared to be replying to the secong question about a MY93 car...

Simon

 

Andy

do the following

1- disconnect the battery
2- lock manualy all three passanger doors from inside
3- before you close the drivers door, lock it and then lift the outside door handle as you close the door, that should leave the drivers door locked... works for toyotas as well! or you can try locking with the key instead of step 3.

arm the alarm as you would normally do, you will hear the chirp, if the car gets broken into the self-powered siren should kick in, you car will remain fully protected by the CAT1 specs.

don't forget the keys inside the car

 

i tried the holding the handle thing, doesnt work, i had to get out, close the front door, open the back, click the central locking button on the front door by climbing round the drivers seat, then do the same for the rear door i opened, then close the back door, and hey presto, it works. i think it was something to do with the drivers door only, a motor or something. when my alarm guy carl, came and fitted my toad system for me, he said the new set up just replaced the dodgy old one without the need of a different motor in the front door. so it seems that its easier to do the connector thing, probably when the car is serviced eventually...

andy