Best/Most effective mods for a Classic shape
#1
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Best/Most effective mods for a Classic shape
I am fairly new to Scooby ownership and my knowledge of the cars is pretty limited. Therefore, I am starting this thread to see what are the best mods to carry out on my MY94 (or any other classic shape).
I am not looking for a crazy fast Scoob. But what are effective modifications (and their rough cost) that do not present reliability issues?
I am not looking for a crazy fast Scoob. But what are effective modifications (and their rough cost) that do not present reliability issues?
#5
Scooby Regular
Get yourself a decat down pipe, decat centre that should cost £300-ish. Will provide great improvement. Then;
Induction kit- £100-ish
FMIC- can be had for £200-ish, would need fitting
aftermarket ecu- Apexi FC + Commander and mapping- £700-ish
List goes on but think the above is a must for just starting mods.
Induction kit- £100-ish
FMIC- can be had for £200-ish, would need fitting
aftermarket ecu- Apexi FC + Commander and mapping- £700-ish
List goes on but think the above is a must for just starting mods.
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#12
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How much power do you want?
Check out PolarPerformance for ecu fettling (if you do start messing with the ecu fuelling upgrades are worthwhile fuel pump £85+ and possibly regulator £150+)
I don't think you have a centre cat on an early wrx (i didn't on mine) so £120ish for a decat pipe.
I'd go with Gaz on the suspension fitted some rear droplinks to mine and i can 'feel' my car can be pushed a liitle harder into corners.
And agree with Jap Import the brakes are shockingly ba (i changed mine for late model 4 pots).
But do a search on here and you'll find a whole lot of advice.
Check out PolarPerformance for ecu fettling (if you do start messing with the ecu fuelling upgrades are worthwhile fuel pump £85+ and possibly regulator £150+)
I don't think you have a centre cat on an early wrx (i didn't on mine) so £120ish for a decat pipe.
I'd go with Gaz on the suspension fitted some rear droplinks to mine and i can 'feel' my car can be pushed a liitle harder into corners.
And agree with Jap Import the brakes are shockingly ba (i changed mine for late model 4 pots).
But do a search on here and you'll find a whole lot of advice.
#14
just spent £3k on my from new 99 wagon. if the shocks / springs are gone - change 'em first - otherwise it'll just be an understeering fat old barge. then the brakes, then exhaust / remap. classic far better than the newage - lighter, nimbler, more fun (if the suspension's not karked).
#16
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How much power do you want?
Check out PolarPerformance for ecu fettling (if you do start messing with the ecu fuelling upgrades are worthwhile fuel pump £85+ and possibly regulator £150+)
I don't think you have a centre cat on an early wrx (i didn't on mine) so £120ish for a decat pipe.
I'd go with Gaz on the suspension fitted some rear droplinks to mine and i can 'feel' my car can be pushed a liitle harder into corners.
And agree with Jap Import the brakes are shockingly ba (i changed mine for late model 4 pots).
But do a search on here and you'll find a whole lot of advice.
Check out PolarPerformance for ecu fettling (if you do start messing with the ecu fuelling upgrades are worthwhile fuel pump £85+ and possibly regulator £150+)
I don't think you have a centre cat on an early wrx (i didn't on mine) so £120ish for a decat pipe.
I'd go with Gaz on the suspension fitted some rear droplinks to mine and i can 'feel' my car can be pushed a liitle harder into corners.
And agree with Jap Import the brakes are shockingly ba (i changed mine for late model 4 pots).
But do a search on here and you'll find a whole lot of advice.
#17
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I dont recommend an induction kit. It is far cheaper and safer just going for a higher flow panel filter, like a K&N. Induction kits have a nasty habit of letting dirt through and onto the Airflow sensor which then goes bye bye and they arent cheap to replace.
Go for the above plus a higher flow exhaust (dont forget to hang on to your old cat for MOT time) , and like AFRIKANZ says an Apexi FC + Commander and that should give you the level of power you are looking for. Sadly ECUTEK is not available for your year of car because it is awesome but the Apexi FC is a great alternative.
Have fun Dude.
Go for the above plus a higher flow exhaust (dont forget to hang on to your old cat for MOT time) , and like AFRIKANZ says an Apexi FC + Commander and that should give you the level of power you are looking for. Sadly ECUTEK is not available for your year of car because it is awesome but the Apexi FC is a great alternative.
Have fun Dude.
#18
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To be safe you need a Walbro 341 pump, rated by the manufacturer at 255 litre per hour as Scott said, £85 or £90 posted. If your fuel pressure regulator is not overcome by the new pump then there is no need for an after market FPR unless you want to exceed the existing capacity of your O/E fuel injectors.
After that:
1) For a noticable power improvement, start with a decat down pipe, preferably 3" open neck. If you can extend to it, also go for a proven performance exhaust system complete such as the Revolution. Your decision on the rest of the exhaust may be influenced by the condition of the exising system.
2) Next would be ported headers and matched up-pipe.
3)You are then ready for an ECU change that will allow you to alter fueling and ignition timing to suit your particular car. This should be an ECU that can be mapped to your car, not a generic chip if you can afford the best solution.
Stay with the standard air box for now. Ensure the filter is in good order. Changing the panel filter will make little or no difference and could even loose a small amount of power.
Do not go for a cone at this stage.
Think about a Knock Link and Boost Guage but some after market ECUs have a DET alarm and even pressure read out facility. I
I hope this is helpful. Happy modding.
After that:
1) For a noticable power improvement, start with a decat down pipe, preferably 3" open neck. If you can extend to it, also go for a proven performance exhaust system complete such as the Revolution. Your decision on the rest of the exhaust may be influenced by the condition of the exising system.
2) Next would be ported headers and matched up-pipe.
3)You are then ready for an ECU change that will allow you to alter fueling and ignition timing to suit your particular car. This should be an ECU that can be mapped to your car, not a generic chip if you can afford the best solution.
Stay with the standard air box for now. Ensure the filter is in good order. Changing the panel filter will make little or no difference and could even loose a small amount of power.
Do not go for a cone at this stage.
Think about a Knock Link and Boost Guage but some after market ECUs have a DET alarm and even pressure read out facility. I
I hope this is helpful. Happy modding.
Last edited by harvey; 05 April 2007 at 12:54 AM.
#19
My approach would be in 2 stages:
1
1997 or later Sti syspension/brakes as a whole.
Add whiteline 22mm bar on the back, ALK to the front, Camber bolts all round
Ace alignment.
Have a lot of fun.
2
Additionally
As Harvey says.
Graham
1
1997 or later Sti syspension/brakes as a whole.
Add whiteline 22mm bar on the back, ALK to the front, Camber bolts all round
Ace alignment.
Have a lot of fun.
2
Additionally
As Harvey says.
Graham
#20
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Several Well Known Mappers now have the ability to do this on any Pre96 ECU
Last edited by Scott.T; 05 April 2007 at 09:26 AM.
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