Cutting out on full boost
#1
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I'm looking for a cheep solution to make my 97 UK model Wagon run with out cutting out on full boost. It started with more noise than expected coming from the turbo side of the engine. API cured the cut out by fitting an upgraded down pipe, as the old one had started to leak. This cured the problem for about three months, then I knocked off one of the small vacuum hoses running from the turbo, by mistake, and now even though it's been reconnected it always cuts out on full boost at around 5000rpm. I'd rather spend my money on building something a bit more special. But first I need to sell my wagon. It's specs are, stainless exhaust and a cone air filter, Sti intercooler and manifold but it still has the standard induction pipe, not the wider Sti one. It also still has the standard UK ECU. I've tried, and was recommended by a mate, disconnecting the battery for half an hour, then going for a hard drive. But I got cut out almost at once. Any advice or ideas would be helpful.
Options that have been put to me so far have been:-
Fit a better ECU. Seems expensive considering I want to sell the car. I presume that in addition the cost of the unit I would need to have it mapped/set-up.
Fit a boost controller, and turn the boost down a bit. Is this possible? I thought that you can only turn the boost up with one.
Put the induction system entirely back to standard. Unfortunately I don't have the standard parts.
Set the car on fire and claim the insurance.
If you have the parts for sale that would fix the problem I would be interested to hear from you.
Thanks, Dinsdale.
Options that have been put to me so far have been:-
Fit a better ECU. Seems expensive considering I want to sell the car. I presume that in addition the cost of the unit I would need to have it mapped/set-up.
Fit a boost controller, and turn the boost down a bit. Is this possible? I thought that you can only turn the boost up with one.
Put the induction system entirely back to standard. Unfortunately I don't have the standard parts.
Set the car on fire and claim the insurance.
If you have the parts for sale that would fix the problem I would be interested to hear from you.
Thanks, Dinsdale.
#3
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It sounds like an idea how do I go about doing it? I'm normally inclined to leaving anything to do with turbos and ECUs to the experts, but I want to save all my spare cash for my next car. And this sounds like a bit of a bodge so asking the guys at API to do it for me is probable out of the question.
I must be the first person to go on the forum and ask for advice on reducing engine power.
One thing I have thought of is replacing all the vacuum hoses, maybe I've got a small leak.
Ta, Dinsdale.
I must be the first person to go on the forum and ask for advice on reducing engine power.
One thing I have thought of is replacing all the vacuum hoses, maybe I've got a small leak.
Ta, Dinsdale.
#5
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Nope the restricter pill is still there. Any one know of a good source of diagrams/photos of the standard turbo system. I'm not really sure what bits are standard for a UK model and which bits have been pinched from other models.. I've been told by the guys at API that the intake manifold is STI and so is the inter cooler. So now I'm thinking that the turbo and/or the turbo pipework have been changed. I'm still at a loss as to why the car has run OK, for me I the past but won't now.
Thanks for the help so far,Dinsdale.
Thanks for the help so far,Dinsdale.
#6
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You could disconnect the boost solenoid and just join the pipes up that should give you just half a bar of boost which would be no ware near fuel cut. I had a similar problem when I took my air box off to fit an induction kit and ended up fitting an electronic boost controller to take my boost back up to just under fuel cut
#7
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Thanks for all the help and comments. The problem is now fixed by changing to a restrictor pill with a larger aperture. So now there's just a little more pressure in the system to kick open solenoid.
Ta, Dinsdale.
Ta, Dinsdale.
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