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Old 22 May 2007 | 01:57 PM
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Default What to look for when buying a classic?

Hi all,

Unfortunately, I won't be in a position to buy a scooby classic until November

BUT - I'm going to use this to my advantage, to learn about scoobys etc.

Anyway, what I want to know is what should a person really look for when buying their first scooby? and what sort of questions should they be asking?

Thanks all
Old 22 May 2007 | 02:03 PM
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#1 Don't buy from poor people who can't afford to maintain them
#2 Service history - independant servicers are cool
#3 If jap import take the mileage with a pinch of salt
#4 check what fuel it's been run on if import / remap status
#5 Start it from cold and check for piston slap if its around 1997/1998 car etc

then just really drive it for as long as you can on the road test to check the usual stuff
Old 22 May 2007 | 02:06 PM
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Shock sensible post from wwsd
Old 22 May 2007 | 02:12 PM
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In the majority of cases, lexus lights are a very bad sign
Old 22 May 2007 | 02:28 PM
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On early jap cars
Power stearing and coolant reseviours are weak
Also top hose into rad tends to go.
If it has been heavily modified. Have the clutch and gearbox been improved to match?
Induction kits dont do MAFs any good - best avoided. So one with a pannel filter is a good bet.
VTA Dump valves best avoided - UNLESS part part of a carefully thought through set up by a decent tuner.

Sensibly modified is no problem. Money spent on things like improved brakes, ARB perhaps an upgraded clutch are all good things -etc etc.
Has it been remaped to take the mods into account?

What to go for?
Just a well looked after enthusiast owned example.
Where no expense has been spared in maintaining it. This is what makes the real difference. Just talking to the owner usually lets you know within a few mins if they have genuinely looked after it and thought hard about the mods.

I squeaky clean engine bay - speaks volumes for me - in terms of the attitude of the owner. A good snap shot way of sometime seperating the chav from the enthusiast

Good luck
In you scooby hunt
Steve
Old 22 May 2007 | 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by dpb
Shock sensible post from wwsd



Old 22 May 2007 | 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by what would scooby do
#1 Don't buy from poor people who can't afford to maintain them
#2 Service history - independant servicers are cool
#3 If jap import take the mileage with a pinch of salt
#4 check what fuel it's been run on if import / remap status
#5 Start it from cold and check for piston slap if its around 1997/1998 car etc

then just really drive it for as long as you can on the road test to check the usual stuff
A big thanks to you!

Point 2 - independant servicers are cool? - they are? I would of normally gone for Full Subaru Service History, without any independant ones - would be hard to find, but atleast it would reassure me about how the car has been looked after.
Old 22 May 2007 | 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve Whitehorn
On early jap cars
Power stearing and coolant reseviours are weak
Also top hose into rad tends to go.
If it has been heavily modified. Have the clutch and gearbox been improved to match?
Induction kits dont do MAFs any good - best avoided. So one with a pannel filter is a good bet.
VTA Dump valves best avoided - UNLESS part part of a carefully thought through set up by a decent tuner.

Sensibly modified is no problem. Money spent on things like improved brakes, ARB perhaps an upgraded clutch are all good things -etc etc.
Has it been remaped to take the mods into account?

What to go for?
Just a well looked after enthusiast owned example.
Where no expense has been spared in maintaining it. This is what makes the real difference. Just talking to the owner usually lets you know within a few mins if they have genuinely looked after it and thought hard about the mods.

I squeaky clean engine bay - speaks volumes for me - in terms of the attitude of the owner. A good snap shot way of sometime seperating the chav from the enthusiast

Good luck
In you scooby hunt
Steve
Thanks for the advice - Lots of useful points there. Have to agree on the engine bay point a dirty engine bay puts me off ALOT.

For future replys it will be a UK car, Jap Import will be to expensive to insure...

Last edited by Phate; 22 May 2007 at 03:13 PM.
Old 22 May 2007 | 03:17 PM
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I assume you are the Phate from OCUK?
Old 22 May 2007 | 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by EddScott
I assume you are the Phate from OCUK?
Bah, OcUk detectives win again eh?

And you are who from OcUk? - If you turn around and say [TW]Fox I will scream!
Old 22 May 2007 | 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Phate
Bah, OcUk detectives win again eh?

And you are who from OcUk? - If you turn around and say [TW]Fox I will scream!
I'm not very original when it comes to usernames
Old 22 May 2007 | 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by EddScott
I'm not very original when it comes to usernames
I looked at your scooby pics, I remember when you posted about the opinion of your wheels
Old 22 May 2007 | 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by what would scooby do
#1 Don't buy from poor people who can't afford to maintain them
#2 Service history - independant servicers are cool
#3 If jap import take the mileage with a pinch of salt
#4 check what fuel it's been run on if import / remap status
#5 Start it from cold and check for piston slap if its around 1997/1998 car etc

then just really drive it for as long as you can on the road test to check the usual stuff
Point 5 - This is not a problem at all provided it dissapears when the engine is warm.
Old 22 May 2007 | 04:35 PM
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At least if an engine bay is a bit dirty, you can see the general area that any leaks are coming from.

Rocker cover gaskets and crank seals can also go for instance.
Old 22 May 2007 | 04:44 PM
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Check the accompanying documentation - has the owner kept all the receipts and MOT certificates?
Don't worry too much about independents doing services, just check their rep (Dealer/3rd Party on here is a good place to look). Good ones are places like Scoobyclinic, TSL, Carnetix (all of which I've used), but that list is not exhaustive as I only use the ones local to me.
Old 22 May 2007 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Phate

For future replys it will be a UK car, Jap Import will be to expensive to insure...

You are not comparing apples with apples.

Bearing in mind the performance difference, what is the difference in insurance? I'm sure that if you intend to modify a UK car to +25% power a standard Jap import will be much more economic for insurance.
Old 22 May 2007 | 08:04 PM
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1. Buy a UK Car - no need to settle for an Import these days

2. Do NOT buy a cheap one

3. Full Subaru Service History for the first 5 years - independent after that

4. If it's been Modified beyond a BackBox - walk away .... very quickly

5. If it has a Dump Valve - RUN away!

6. Gold Wheels are very 90's and tacky - factor in price for decent silvers

7. One Owner is desirable - as few as possible in other words

8. Get a Wagon - they tend to be Chav free zones

9. They get dented easily so expect some car park dents along flanks

10. Enjoy the best car ever made
Old 22 May 2007 | 08:25 PM
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11. Listen to most people but never the above poster, although

2, 4, 7, 9 and 10 are true
Old 22 May 2007 | 08:27 PM
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Lewis speaks a lot of sense ignore him at your peril
Old 23 May 2007 | 12:57 PM
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Most of that isn't bad TBH. You'll be hard pushed to find one without an atmos dump valve.

Although knowing phate, if it hasn't got one, it will have eventually!

I'd agree with the wagon statement although I doubt your after a wagon. As for gold wheels, they seem to have become a bit marmite.
Old 23 May 2007 | 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by pslewis
1. Buy a UK Car - no need to settle for an Import these days

2. Do NOT buy a cheap one

3. Full Subaru Service History for the first 5 years - independent after that

4. If it's been Modified beyond a BackBox - walk away .... very quickly

5. If it has a Dump Valve - RUN away!

6. Gold Wheels are very 90's and tacky - factor in price for decent silvers

7. One Owner is desirable - as few as possible in other words

8. Get a Wagon - they tend to be Chav free zones

9. They get dented easily so expect some car park dents along flanks

10. Enjoy the best car ever made

So, your car then?
Just make sure you don't buy a car from anyone over 77yrs old. Although they 'say' its been serviced, chip fat is not the best oil for a scooby.
Old 23 May 2007 | 01:43 PM
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Mr Lewis should bring out his own brand of oil.
Old 23 May 2007 | 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by DANNYBOY2511

Mr Lewis should bring out his own brand of oil.
I could call it LewisRallyX .... and, as long as I charged £45+ for 4 Litres, muppets will buy it from me

If I sold it for £12 for 5 Litres no-one would want it! - Same stuff, different profit ................. fools and their money
Old 23 May 2007 | 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by pslewis
1. Buy a UK Car - no need to settle for an Import these days

2. Do NOT buy a cheap one

3. Full Subaru Service History for the first 5 years - independent after that

4. If it's been Modified beyond a BackBox - walk away .... very quickly

5. If it has a Dump Valve - RUN away!

6. Gold Wheels are very 90's and tacky - factor in price for decent silvers

7. One Owner is desirable - as few as possible in other words

8. Get a Wagon - they tend to be Chav free zones

9. They get dented easily so expect some car park dents along flanks

10. Enjoy the best car ever made
the wagon is well more chav than a saloon! at least round our way. Probably because they're a bit cheaper and can fit all them push chairs in the boot for little Chardonnay and Romeo

How would anyone know it was a subaru if it didn't have gold wheels!
Old 23 May 2007 | 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by pslewis
I could call it LewisRallyX .... and, as long as I charged £45+ for 4 Litres, muppets will buy it from me

If I sold it for £12 for 5 Litres no-one would want it! - Same stuff, different profit ................. fools and their money
hahahahha you have a point mate.
personally i use the expensive stuff for my own piece of mind.
Old 23 May 2007 | 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by bluenose2007
How would anyone know it was a subaru if it didn't have gold wheels!
Just a wild guess, has it got the letters UBRASU in some arrangement on the back somewhere?

Gold wheels really are yesterdays child.
Old 23 May 2007 | 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by DANNYBOY2511
hahahahha you have a point mate.
personally i use the expensive stuff for my own piece of mind.
As long as it buys you peace of mind, thats fine.

As an Engineer I can apply my knowledge and experience and buy whats actually needed - at £14 per 5 Litres Being an expert has its payback I guess
Old 23 May 2007 | 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by pslewis
As long as it buys you peace of mind, thats fine.

As an Engineer I can apply my knowledge and experience and buy whats actually needed - at £14 per 5 Litres Being an expert has its payback I guess
Modest as ever MrLewis
Old 23 May 2007 | 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by InfractMe
Just a wild guess, has it got the letters UBRASU in some arrangement on the back somewhere?

Gold wheels really are yesterdays child.
That might give the game away a long with the dirty big scoop!

I still say gold wheels look sweet as though, it is like a trademark.
Old 23 May 2007 | 11:02 PM
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[QUOTE=I still say gold wheels look sweet as though, it is like a trademark.[/QUOTE]


if my classic had gold wheels on id say someone stole my silver speedlines ,:P



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