What to look for when buying a classic?
#1
Scooby Newbie
Thread Starter
What to look for when buying a classic?
Hi all,
Unfortunately, I won't be in a position to buy a scooby classic until November
BUT - I'm going to use this to my advantage, to learn about scoobys etc.
Anyway, what I want to know is what should a person really look for when buying their first scooby? and what sort of questions should they be asking?
Thanks all
Unfortunately, I won't be in a position to buy a scooby classic until November
BUT - I'm going to use this to my advantage, to learn about scoobys etc.
Anyway, what I want to know is what should a person really look for when buying their first scooby? and what sort of questions should they be asking?
Thanks all
#2
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#1 Don't buy from poor people who can't afford to maintain them
#2 Service history - independant servicers are cool
#3 If jap import take the mileage with a pinch of salt
#4 check what fuel it's been run on if import / remap status
#5 Start it from cold and check for piston slap if its around 1997/1998 car etc
then just really drive it for as long as you can on the road test to check the usual stuff
#2 Service history - independant servicers are cool
#3 If jap import take the mileage with a pinch of salt
#4 check what fuel it's been run on if import / remap status
#5 Start it from cold and check for piston slap if its around 1997/1998 car etc
then just really drive it for as long as you can on the road test to check the usual stuff
#5
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (13)
On early jap cars
Power stearing and coolant reseviours are weak
Also top hose into rad tends to go.
If it has been heavily modified. Have the clutch and gearbox been improved to match?
Induction kits dont do MAFs any good - best avoided. So one with a pannel filter is a good bet.
VTA Dump valves best avoided - UNLESS part part of a carefully thought through set up by a decent tuner.
Sensibly modified is no problem. Money spent on things like improved brakes, ARB perhaps an upgraded clutch are all good things -etc etc.
Has it been remaped to take the mods into account?
What to go for?
Just a well looked after enthusiast owned example.
Where no expense has been spared in maintaining it. This is what makes the real difference. Just talking to the owner usually lets you know within a few mins if they have genuinely looked after it and thought hard about the mods.
I squeaky clean engine bay - speaks volumes for me - in terms of the attitude of the owner. A good snap shot way of sometime seperating the chav from the enthusiast
Good luck
In you scooby hunt
Steve
Power stearing and coolant reseviours are weak
Also top hose into rad tends to go.
If it has been heavily modified. Have the clutch and gearbox been improved to match?
Induction kits dont do MAFs any good - best avoided. So one with a pannel filter is a good bet.
VTA Dump valves best avoided - UNLESS part part of a carefully thought through set up by a decent tuner.
Sensibly modified is no problem. Money spent on things like improved brakes, ARB perhaps an upgraded clutch are all good things -etc etc.
Has it been remaped to take the mods into account?
What to go for?
Just a well looked after enthusiast owned example.
Where no expense has been spared in maintaining it. This is what makes the real difference. Just talking to the owner usually lets you know within a few mins if they have genuinely looked after it and thought hard about the mods.
I squeaky clean engine bay - speaks volumes for me - in terms of the attitude of the owner. A good snap shot way of sometime seperating the chav from the enthusiast
Good luck
In you scooby hunt
Steve
#7
Scooby Newbie
Thread Starter
#1 Don't buy from poor people who can't afford to maintain them
#2 Service history - independant servicers are cool
#3 If jap import take the mileage with a pinch of salt
#4 check what fuel it's been run on if import / remap status
#5 Start it from cold and check for piston slap if its around 1997/1998 car etc
then just really drive it for as long as you can on the road test to check the usual stuff
#2 Service history - independant servicers are cool
#3 If jap import take the mileage with a pinch of salt
#4 check what fuel it's been run on if import / remap status
#5 Start it from cold and check for piston slap if its around 1997/1998 car etc
then just really drive it for as long as you can on the road test to check the usual stuff
Point 2 - independant servicers are cool? - they are? I would of normally gone for Full Subaru Service History, without any independant ones - would be hard to find, but atleast it would reassure me about how the car has been looked after.
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#8
Scooby Newbie
Thread Starter
On early jap cars
Power stearing and coolant reseviours are weak
Also top hose into rad tends to go.
If it has been heavily modified. Have the clutch and gearbox been improved to match?
Induction kits dont do MAFs any good - best avoided. So one with a pannel filter is a good bet.
VTA Dump valves best avoided - UNLESS part part of a carefully thought through set up by a decent tuner.
Sensibly modified is no problem. Money spent on things like improved brakes, ARB perhaps an upgraded clutch are all good things -etc etc.
Has it been remaped to take the mods into account?
What to go for?
Just a well looked after enthusiast owned example.
Where no expense has been spared in maintaining it. This is what makes the real difference. Just talking to the owner usually lets you know within a few mins if they have genuinely looked after it and thought hard about the mods.
I squeaky clean engine bay - speaks volumes for me - in terms of the attitude of the owner. A good snap shot way of sometime seperating the chav from the enthusiast
Good luck
In you scooby hunt
Steve
Power stearing and coolant reseviours are weak
Also top hose into rad tends to go.
If it has been heavily modified. Have the clutch and gearbox been improved to match?
Induction kits dont do MAFs any good - best avoided. So one with a pannel filter is a good bet.
VTA Dump valves best avoided - UNLESS part part of a carefully thought through set up by a decent tuner.
Sensibly modified is no problem. Money spent on things like improved brakes, ARB perhaps an upgraded clutch are all good things -etc etc.
Has it been remaped to take the mods into account?
What to go for?
Just a well looked after enthusiast owned example.
Where no expense has been spared in maintaining it. This is what makes the real difference. Just talking to the owner usually lets you know within a few mins if they have genuinely looked after it and thought hard about the mods.
I squeaky clean engine bay - speaks volumes for me - in terms of the attitude of the owner. A good snap shot way of sometime seperating the chav from the enthusiast
Good luck
In you scooby hunt
Steve
For future replys it will be a UK car, Jap Import will be to expensive to insure...
Last edited by Phate; 22 May 2007 at 02:13 PM.
#10
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#11
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#12
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#13
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#1 Don't buy from poor people who can't afford to maintain them
#2 Service history - independant servicers are cool
#3 If jap import take the mileage with a pinch of salt
#4 check what fuel it's been run on if import / remap status
#5 Start it from cold and check for piston slap if its around 1997/1998 car etc
then just really drive it for as long as you can on the road test to check the usual stuff
#2 Service history - independant servicers are cool
#3 If jap import take the mileage with a pinch of salt
#4 check what fuel it's been run on if import / remap status
#5 Start it from cold and check for piston slap if its around 1997/1998 car etc
then just really drive it for as long as you can on the road test to check the usual stuff
#15
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Check the accompanying documentation - has the owner kept all the receipts and MOT certificates?
Don't worry too much about independents doing services, just check their rep (Dealer/3rd Party on here is a good place to look). Good ones are places like Scoobyclinic, TSL, Carnetix (all of which I've used), but that list is not exhaustive as I only use the ones local to me.
Don't worry too much about independents doing services, just check their rep (Dealer/3rd Party on here is a good place to look). Good ones are places like Scoobyclinic, TSL, Carnetix (all of which I've used), but that list is not exhaustive as I only use the ones local to me.
#16
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You are not comparing apples with apples.
Bearing in mind the performance difference, what is the difference in insurance? I'm sure that if you intend to modify a UK car to +25% power a standard Jap import will be much more economic for insurance.
#17
Scooby Regular
1. Buy a UK Car - no need to settle for an Import these days
2. Do NOT buy a cheap one
3. Full Subaru Service History for the first 5 years - independent after that
4. If it's been Modified beyond a BackBox - walk away .... very quickly
5. If it has a Dump Valve - RUN away!
6. Gold Wheels are very 90's and tacky - factor in price for decent silvers
7. One Owner is desirable - as few as possible in other words
8. Get a Wagon - they tend to be Chav free zones
9. They get dented easily so expect some car park dents along flanks
10. Enjoy the best car ever made
2. Do NOT buy a cheap one
3. Full Subaru Service History for the first 5 years - independent after that
4. If it's been Modified beyond a BackBox - walk away .... very quickly
5. If it has a Dump Valve - RUN away!
6. Gold Wheels are very 90's and tacky - factor in price for decent silvers
7. One Owner is desirable - as few as possible in other words
8. Get a Wagon - they tend to be Chav free zones
9. They get dented easily so expect some car park dents along flanks
10. Enjoy the best car ever made
#20
Scooby Regular
Most of that isn't bad TBH. You'll be hard pushed to find one without an atmos dump valve.
Although knowing phate, if it hasn't got one, it will have eventually!
I'd agree with the wagon statement although I doubt your after a wagon. As for gold wheels, they seem to have become a bit marmite.
Although knowing phate, if it hasn't got one, it will have eventually!
I'd agree with the wagon statement although I doubt your after a wagon. As for gold wheels, they seem to have become a bit marmite.
#21
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1. Buy a UK Car - no need to settle for an Import these days
2. Do NOT buy a cheap one
3. Full Subaru Service History for the first 5 years - independent after that
4. If it's been Modified beyond a BackBox - walk away .... very quickly
5. If it has a Dump Valve - RUN away!
6. Gold Wheels are very 90's and tacky - factor in price for decent silvers
7. One Owner is desirable - as few as possible in other words
8. Get a Wagon - they tend to be Chav free zones
9. They get dented easily so expect some car park dents along flanks
10. Enjoy the best car ever made
2. Do NOT buy a cheap one
3. Full Subaru Service History for the first 5 years - independent after that
4. If it's been Modified beyond a BackBox - walk away .... very quickly
5. If it has a Dump Valve - RUN away!
6. Gold Wheels are very 90's and tacky - factor in price for decent silvers
7. One Owner is desirable - as few as possible in other words
8. Get a Wagon - they tend to be Chav free zones
9. They get dented easily so expect some car park dents along flanks
10. Enjoy the best car ever made
So, your car then?
Just make sure you don't buy a car from anyone over 77yrs old. Although they 'say' its been serviced, chip fat is not the best oil for a scooby.
#23
Scooby Regular
I could call it LewisRallyX .... and, as long as I charged £45+ for 4 Litres, muppets will buy it from me
If I sold it for £12 for 5 Litres no-one would want it! - Same stuff, different profit ................. fools and their money
If I sold it for £12 for 5 Litres no-one would want it! - Same stuff, different profit ................. fools and their money
#24
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Join Date: Apr 2007
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1. Buy a UK Car - no need to settle for an Import these days
2. Do NOT buy a cheap one
3. Full Subaru Service History for the first 5 years - independent after that
4. If it's been Modified beyond a BackBox - walk away .... very quickly
5. If it has a Dump Valve - RUN away!
6. Gold Wheels are very 90's and tacky - factor in price for decent silvers
7. One Owner is desirable - as few as possible in other words
8. Get a Wagon - they tend to be Chav free zones
9. They get dented easily so expect some car park dents along flanks
10. Enjoy the best car ever made
2. Do NOT buy a cheap one
3. Full Subaru Service History for the first 5 years - independent after that
4. If it's been Modified beyond a BackBox - walk away .... very quickly
5. If it has a Dump Valve - RUN away!
6. Gold Wheels are very 90's and tacky - factor in price for decent silvers
7. One Owner is desirable - as few as possible in other words
8. Get a Wagon - they tend to be Chav free zones
9. They get dented easily so expect some car park dents along flanks
10. Enjoy the best car ever made
How would anyone know it was a subaru if it didn't have gold wheels!
#25
Scooby Regular
personally i use the expensive stuff for my own piece of mind.
#26
#27
Scooby Regular
As an Engineer I can apply my knowledge and experience and buy whats actually needed - at £14 per 5 Litres Being an expert has its payback I guess
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