RonnieB

Hi all,

Anyone know best place to buy some uprated pads (front and rear) for a hawkeye 2006 STI with brembo callipers.

When I've depressed the 'fun pedal' a little too hard the brake pedal feels spongy when I press it and tends to give up quite easily when braking hard (not that I speed or anything )!!!!

Suggestions for best ones and where to buy would be cool.

Also, how easy are they to fit? (I'm no mechanic ). Any special tools required?

Many thx

Ronnie

GazTheHat

Contact Alyn from AS Performance.

I can recommend the Ferrodo DS2500, Goodridge s/steel hoses & Motul 5.1 fluid. Increased pedal feel and do not fade as quickly.

Mikkel

You must be doing warp speed as the standard breaks on my 06 STI are great.

RLE

iTrader: (2)

Remind me Gaz what is the squeal like on the DS2500's?
Do you also get that awkward clunking from the pad moving in the calliper at low speeds.
Brake dust an issue?
Think I need some new ones on mine to keep the AP's at bay

al-g

I've got the DS2500's on my MY05 STi and think theyr'e great. Don't get any squeel and i heard more clunking with the standard pads in. As for brake dust, you do get a fair amount over your wheels.

53

iTrader: (41)

EBC yellows

SPEN555

On OEM Brembo's I have found DS2500's okay. I then went to Pagid (RS29's I think?) and these were fantastic once warmed up but kicked the living $hit out of the standard OEM discs i.e. wore them out quickly. So I had to change the discs.

I have now gone to PF Discs and Pads and to be honest in terms of feel I cannot see much improvement over a decent set of pads and OEM discs.

Ultimately I am coming to the conclusion the Brembo caliper is flawed as I always seem to end up with spongy/inconsistent brakes on track due to heat build up. Searching various BBS's a number of people have found this to be the case.

As a road set up they are fine but once on track they are found wanting in my experience.

RonnieB

Thx all.

Anyone any ideas on how easy (or not as the case may be) pads are to change?

Thx

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

Nothing wrong with those calipers its just the brake setup that naffs it up need to be a floating setup to dissipate the heat better rather than let it heat up the disc/bearing. Worth thinking about getting the bells to do that

Tony

SPEN555

I have the bells and the calipers are a load of $hite. First time passenger side caliper was taken off to replace discs and one of the caliper bolt threads were fooked. So it's either buy a new caliper or have it helicoiled, neither of which I was happy about. A number of people have had the same problem.

D1CCY

SPEN

I had exactly the same caliper bolt problem passenger side. Thought it must be a one off, surprised others have suffered as well, perhaps SubaruUK ought to pay us for the trouble caused under the sale of goods act. I ended up getting AP 6 pots so it cost me a lot to get rid.

A lot of brake problems are caused by overheating due to insufficient fresh air getting to the brake. I suffered some overheating with the APs on track and Pete Collen from AP suggested I fix up some brake ducting. I found this too difficult but as I have a blobeye STi I simply removed the "fog light" covers and cut a 3" square hole in the back of the mud guard and hey presto loads of fresh air behind the wheel and no brake probs on last track day.

Ronnie,

Try Pagid Blue (RS42) if you want a bit more bite than the very good DS2500. Alyn at ASPerformance will be able to advise and supply whatever you need.

Pad change is easy.
Wheel off
Clips out of pins
Knock pins out towards car
Wiggle pads out, lever between pads to push pistons back NOT disc note positions of shims and clips
Good clean with toothbrush.
Copperslip backs and edges of new pads and put back together as it came out

Cheers, Diccy.

SPEN555

Diccy,

I have not found much on BBS's over here but on the NASIOC having spent some time searching I found a few threads which had the same problems with the calipers.

Disappointing to read your problem with the AP's but this then suggests it is a design fault with the car as effectively it suggests very little or no air is getting through to the brakes.

The cutting the wheel liner is an option, but I would prefer not to do that but may end up having to do that. The drivers side might be a problem as there is a CAIK sat in the wing which then might suggest is that giving me a problem? Hmmm.

D1CCY

SPEN,

They must have had a whole box of bad bolts.

When not on track I stick the cut out bit of wheel liner back with gaffer tape. It stays stuck pretty good as long as the plastic is nice and clean. You can hardly see it once covered with a bit of road grime. Come track day I just pull them off and pull the fog covers off the front. Yes drivers side has the inlet resonator in it but plenty of air gets round it.

I wasn't suggesting there was any fault with my APs, bottom line is that it doesn't matter how good a brake set up you have, if it gets no fresh air it will just get hotter and hotter until some problem or other arises. Before my fresh air mod my front brakes were scorching after 4-5 laps,
ticking like a hot exhaust and like standing next to an electric fire. After the mod they were far cooler and my particular problem of pad deposits was solved.

My thanks to Pete Collen at AP Racing for his advice which pushed me do do something about the ventilation. As far as I'm concerned this is a nil cost must do mod. Also thanks to Alyn at AS Performance for his advice and supply of pad choice.

Cheers, Diccy.

RonnieB

Thx dor your help Diccy.

Sorry to sound a bit fick can you explain this a bit more for me?
Thought you needed to lever against the disc to push the pad back to push the pistons in

Please advise,

Many thx

D1CCY

Ronnie, Replied to your PM.

RonnieB

Thx Diccy