0-60 time
#3
on my integrale I found the best way was hold the revs at 4500 rpm then release the clutch and nail it . Seemed to work ok. Any lower and it dropped off boost any higher and you get clutch slip and fry the clutch .
#4
Paul
i always found the grale a bit tricky for fast getaways, dumping it would not guarantee a good take off, I 'd often get totaly bogged down, it seemed the revs were very critical. i found that 2 or 3 guns of the throttle then a quick but very slightly feathered relaese of the clutch at about 3500-4000 would result in warp-like launches.
i always found the grale a bit tricky for fast getaways, dumping it would not guarantee a good take off, I 'd often get totaly bogged down, it seemed the revs were very critical. i found that 2 or 3 guns of the throttle then a quick but very slightly feathered relaese of the clutch at about 3500-4000 would result in warp-like launches.
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#8
You think it's tricky to get the best 0-60 time? It's much trickier on a bike.
With the right hand, get the revs up into max torque range - about 8000 will do - AND hold the front brake. With the left hand hold the clutch at biting point. It's a wet clutch, so don't worry about over heating it - yet.
With the right foot on the ground (to stop you falling over!) use the left foot to engage first gear. Clunk!
When the lights go green, hold the revs and adjust for bogging, don't be scared to to give it a handful. Gently, slowly, carefully release the clutch, let it slip, it's meant to do that. Adjust weight between rear of bike (to stop wheelspin) and front of bike (to keep the front on the road). Make sure clutch is fully engaged after a second or so, or it'll eventually fry!
60mph should be on the speedo in about three seconds if you get it right. You'll be needing second gear about then, and it'll be asking for third when you get to 100mph in seven seconds. If you get it wrong, the speedo might be showing 0mph, cos you fell off the back and it's in the ditch.
Of course, this does not apply to Honda C90 Cubs.
Mr B.
With the right hand, get the revs up into max torque range - about 8000 will do - AND hold the front brake. With the left hand hold the clutch at biting point. It's a wet clutch, so don't worry about over heating it - yet.
With the right foot on the ground (to stop you falling over!) use the left foot to engage first gear. Clunk!
When the lights go green, hold the revs and adjust for bogging, don't be scared to to give it a handful. Gently, slowly, carefully release the clutch, let it slip, it's meant to do that. Adjust weight between rear of bike (to stop wheelspin) and front of bike (to keep the front on the road). Make sure clutch is fully engaged after a second or so, or it'll eventually fry!
60mph should be on the speedo in about three seconds if you get it right. You'll be needing second gear about then, and it'll be asking for third when you get to 100mph in seven seconds. If you get it wrong, the speedo might be showing 0mph, cos you fell off the back and it's in the ditch.
Of course, this does not apply to Honda C90 Cubs.
Mr B.
#9
Paul
I never timed it, but it must have been in the ball park.
(evo2 standard. I initially had a very modded evo 1 prior to the 2 in which it was better to just start normally then nail it when clutch was fully engaged, the sheer power would overhaul anything that might have got an early advantage, trouble was it also ended up wrecking the 4wd hardware, the diffs made awful clunking and whining noises so I sold it before the bills came)
Adrian
I never timed it, but it must have been in the ball park.
(evo2 standard. I initially had a very modded evo 1 prior to the 2 in which it was better to just start normally then nail it when clutch was fully engaged, the sheer power would overhaul anything that might have got an early advantage, trouble was it also ended up wrecking the 4wd hardware, the diffs made awful clunking and whining noises so I sold it before the bills came)
Adrian
#10
I've managed a few fast-ish ones, while still trying to be as smooth as possible...
Rev the engine to ~5-5500 rpm...and release the clutch, don't sidestep, get some slip, and release it when it grips...and floor it. I think this pretension saves the tranny a bit...the really tricky part is to get a fast, and safe shift into 2:nd...this is where most trannies goes **** up.
I've managed a few sub 5 runs...and one 4.68 0-62....all done on a G-tech (with a grain of salt as they say).
/J
MY00
VF24
Link
Rev the engine to ~5-5500 rpm...and release the clutch, don't sidestep, get some slip, and release it when it grips...and floor it. I think this pretension saves the tranny a bit...the really tricky part is to get a fast, and safe shift into 2:nd...this is where most trannies goes **** up.
I've managed a few sub 5 runs...and one 4.68 0-62....all done on a G-tech (with a grain of salt as they say).
/J
MY00
VF24
Link
#11
HA HA HA HA HA HA HA
You are truly a bunch of saddos!!
The way I measure the performance of a car is:-
1. Will it get me safely past that lorry/granny/gold wheel lover doing 25mph?
2. Will it let me play a little round the country lanes without landing me with the squirrels?
3. Will it start the morning after next? at -10c?
4. Will it carry the family safely over most terrain?
If the answers to above are YES - then thats whats important ..... What the hell is the point of knowing the 0-60 of your car, when it will be different tomorrow, next month, next year, if its dry, wet, misty, if you have pressed the stopwatch at EXACTLY the right time????? what COBBLERS!! read the car mags ................ their figures are as good as any - and completely useless all the same - it saves your clutch and blushes!!
Pete
You are truly a bunch of saddos!!
The way I measure the performance of a car is:-
1. Will it get me safely past that lorry/granny/gold wheel lover doing 25mph?
2. Will it let me play a little round the country lanes without landing me with the squirrels?
3. Will it start the morning after next? at -10c?
4. Will it carry the family safely over most terrain?
If the answers to above are YES - then thats whats important ..... What the hell is the point of knowing the 0-60 of your car, when it will be different tomorrow, next month, next year, if its dry, wet, misty, if you have pressed the stopwatch at EXACTLY the right time????? what COBBLERS!! read the car mags ................ their figures are as good as any - and completely useless all the same - it saves your clutch and blushes!!
Pete
#16
Jmc - you have just proved my point - you REALLY ARE a donkey!!
Skodas (note the 'K' in the spelling?) are truly fine cars - some are quite quick too .............. is that your hat you are eating??
And, NO, do NOT thrash your Scoobs - what have they done to you??
Cars from the likes of Jmc will have drainpipe exhausts, body-kits, sunstrips, spray job, thrashed .... then he will come on here moaning because no-one wants to buy his pile of br4p!!
Oh, yes, I DO drive a Scoobie Turbo MY00, DBM, 23,000miles and NOT thrashed!!
Pete
Skodas (note the 'K' in the spelling?) are truly fine cars - some are quite quick too .............. is that your hat you are eating??
And, NO, do NOT thrash your Scoobs - what have they done to you??
Cars from the likes of Jmc will have drainpipe exhausts, body-kits, sunstrips, spray job, thrashed .... then he will come on here moaning because no-one wants to buy his pile of br4p!!
Oh, yes, I DO drive a Scoobie Turbo MY00, DBM, 23,000miles and NOT thrashed!!
Pete
#18
Well I only managed a 5.64 in my standard Gti-R, but I found that if I really tried it made it worse. I wasn't so keen on being too brutal with redlines and snapping gearchanges. My R is the slower one in this month Banzai mag:
http://www.banzaimagazine.com/
Steve
http://www.banzaimagazine.com/
Steve
#19
OI! Ditch the Skoda cracks, they are good motors and good VFM.
There are some brisk versions of the RS out there that can keep up with PPP Scoobies (OK, its gotta be dry) and as for top end, well 166mph so far on the GPS.
Mr Lewis, much as it pains me, you are right - 0-60 is meaningless. More relevant is mid range.
However the question was 0-60, I use 4,000 drop the clutch and floor it. Trouble with mine is that first runs to 48! By then everyone else has gone!
There are some brisk versions of the RS out there that can keep up with PPP Scoobies (OK, its gotta be dry) and as for top end, well 166mph so far on the GPS.
Mr Lewis, much as it pains me, you are right - 0-60 is meaningless. More relevant is mid range.
However the question was 0-60, I use 4,000 drop the clutch and floor it. Trouble with mine is that first runs to 48! By then everyone else has gone!
#22
Dont get me wrong - I HAVE 'dropped the clutch at 5000 rpm' as advised many moons ago. And, yes, it seemed very fast!!
But, and this is the cruncher, I did NOT time it!! now, that REALLY WOULD have been sadder than sad - come on, unless you are 17 years old with a Nova and Acne problem you should be thoroughly ashamed of yourselves!!
Pete
But, and this is the cruncher, I did NOT time it!! now, that REALLY WOULD have been sadder than sad - come on, unless you are 17 years old with a Nova and Acne problem you should be thoroughly ashamed of yourselves!!
Pete
#23
FO mate... I've used the G-tech and 0-62...and the quarter to see if the mods did anything good. Oh...and they did.
And I've done a few dragraces for fun.
If I break it, I'll sure as hell have to pay for it.
Oh...gold wheels rule on blue cars.
/J - Max Power
And I've done a few dragraces for fun.
If I break it, I'll sure as hell have to pay for it.
Oh...gold wheels rule on blue cars.
/J - Max Power
#26
Nath,
I think Tavia was running 21psi at the time.
Loads of tuners offer kits for the 1.8t VW engine, I've lost the link but a 420bhp kit is available and is good for nearly 200mph when fitted to A3/A4/Golf/Octavia.
Spring and damper kits as well as Porsche brake upgrades fit across the VAG range.
Lee
I think Tavia was running 21psi at the time.
Loads of tuners offer kits for the 1.8t VW engine, I've lost the link but a 420bhp kit is available and is good for nearly 200mph when fitted to A3/A4/Golf/Octavia.
Spring and damper kits as well as Porsche brake upgrades fit across the VAG range.
Lee
#27
Found the info but not the URL..
Skoda Octavia 1.8 T RS 420 hp
Max. power 420 hp (309 kW) vid 5750 r/min
Max. torque 374 lb-ft vid 4880 r/min
Changes: New E-proms in ECU, optimization of flow to intercooler, new turbo, exhaust manifold, wastegate, intercooler, injectors, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, camshafts, crankshaft, piston rods, pistons, oil cooler, clutch, flywheel, air filter, modification of air filter housing and charge air hoses and pipes, extra engine mounts, modification of crank case breather, porting of cylinder head, 2 x race cats, stainless steel exhaust (turbo-back).
Price incl. installation 25050 USD (24672 EUR) excl. VAT
Note This upgrade is TÜV-approved and meets the current european emission regulations. The software maintains full functionality in terms of diagnostics, engine protection and fault code memory.
Lee
Skoda Octavia 1.8 T RS 420 hp
Max. power 420 hp (309 kW) vid 5750 r/min
Max. torque 374 lb-ft vid 4880 r/min
Changes: New E-proms in ECU, optimization of flow to intercooler, new turbo, exhaust manifold, wastegate, intercooler, injectors, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, camshafts, crankshaft, piston rods, pistons, oil cooler, clutch, flywheel, air filter, modification of air filter housing and charge air hoses and pipes, extra engine mounts, modification of crank case breather, porting of cylinder head, 2 x race cats, stainless steel exhaust (turbo-back).
Price incl. installation 25050 USD (24672 EUR) excl. VAT
Note This upgrade is TÜV-approved and meets the current european emission regulations. The software maintains full functionality in terms of diagnostics, engine protection and fault code memory.
Lee
#28
Thanks Lee,
As I stated I wasn't doubting it as anythings possible with enough money thrown at it, although I bet that spec would wipe a few grins of some peoples faces on the road/track
Nath
As I stated I wasn't doubting it as anythings possible with enough money thrown at it, although I bet that spec would wipe a few grins of some peoples faces on the road/track
Nath
#29
Even better, there's a 500BHP conversion! I checked it out and it needed a rebuild every 1000KM and hed a life expectancy of 10000KM. Great for the track but the servicing bill could be a tad excessive.
One of the links is www.audituning.com/english/default.html.
Mine is just a humble RS with just over 220bhp and 268lb/ft torque.
One of the links is www.audituning.com/english/default.html.
Mine is just a humble RS with just over 220bhp and 268lb/ft torque.
#30
Fight, fight
I love it when everyone is callin each other names, what have we had dweeb, donkey, keep em comin
0-60 mmmmmmmmm, aaaaaarh, ooooooooooh, never timed it, never will, always puts a smile on my face though
Still quicker than me half egg's (twins) Astra SPORT, ha ha ha haaaaaaaa
As has been said before, past 45 you have left everyone behind anyway
Keep the names coming, hell call me some names
I love it when everyone is callin each other names, what have we had dweeb, donkey, keep em comin
0-60 mmmmmmmmm, aaaaaarh, ooooooooooh, never timed it, never will, always puts a smile on my face though
Still quicker than me half egg's (twins) Astra SPORT, ha ha ha haaaaaaaa
As has been said before, past 45 you have left everyone behind anyway
Keep the names coming, hell call me some names