Right got my set of defis yesterday, garage cant get the car in for about two weeks so i thought sod it il have a go... and OH dear its not going good so i have a few questions that need answering please all.

First of all with the oil filter adaptor plate does both the oil pressure and oil temp screw in here as there is two respective holes for the senders, only i thought one of them went on top of the 3rd cylinder somewhere.

secondly does the power supply have to come from battery direct or can yo just tee everything of the little clock and which is the wire for the ignition

Im just having some breakfast now (tea and 3 shreadded wheat) and then i might venture to the shed and have another go but would like a few responses first as, to be honest electrics/wiring is not my strong point.
thanks all in advance.

 

hope this helps WRXtra

 

Oil - You can use a sandwich plate if you really want and shove them both in there for ease of fitment; *but* the best readings are from the OE oil pressure sensor location and the 3rd cylinder bung for temp - thing with both of these is I believe you'll need extra adaptors to get your defi sensors to fit (I've no idea what the fitment of the defi adaptors is).

My recommended fitting can be fiddly to do - and requires pulling a few engine ancillaries out of the way, and if you don't mind me saying - if you were going to book it in to a garage to get gauges fitted because of lack of mechanical knowledge, I'd suggest keeping it simple and using the pressure plate!

 

thankyou chaps. any ideas on power supply as te leads supplied dont look long enough to reach the battery. so im pressuming it can be tee'd from else where.

 

you'll probably have to get some more wire and extend them. I've never fitted defi's - am I right thinking that the gauges draw their power from the control box, and the control box connects to the car?

I'd probably use the switched live from the head unit as a power source; usually that has more than enough capacity to handle something I'd guess was fairly low draw. My concern would be that the power wire for the clock might not have enough capacity to feed a set of defi's; so I'd be looking for a more "chunky" switched live and earth.

(I take no responsibilities for you blowing your car up though!)

 

thanks again. yes the powr goes to the controll unit then a wire connects to one defi and they all run from that.

 

Defi senders are quite simple to fit really.All you need to do is remove the intercooler and alternator for easy access,undo the bung over no3 cylinder using an 8mm alan key or similar and screw the oil temp adaptor plate in there,the oil temp sender then screws into that (making sure that you wrap the threads in PTFE before screwing them in.The oil Pressure sender simply replaces the OE sender under the alternator put everything back together daisy chain the wires to the gauges and job done.If it is a newage car then take the feed for the boost sender from the pipe on the dumpvalve

 

so there is no need to use the sandwich adaptor plate then.?

 

nope

 

the sandwich adaptor is only for ease of fitting. I was told when buying.

I still bought it as the cost of it over the workshop hour difference was about the same, so thought WTH.

 

so gaz are yours fitted using the adaptor then, and to be honest i could do the oil change at the same time. i pressume the intercooler still has to come out so you can get the wires back to the pod area through a grommit that is there somewhere im told.

 

nope

 

where abouts do the wires for the gauges come through to the cabin.

 

Theres an "empty" rubber grommet just below the brake servo. From inside the car you should be able to feel it if you get your hand up under the drivers side dash, up-right of the clutch pedal (if I remember right). It seems like a very long way up behind the dash when your inside the car.

 

I used the four wires from the clock to supply :-
1. Earth
2. +12v
3. Switched ignition live
4. Illumination

Sandwich plate is easy option, and won't be far out in readings....

HTH

DunxC

 

Did you get them all working mate ? What about a few pictures of the finished job ?

Ricky !

 

Yep - i did it this way in under 3 hours with no problems.

 

doing it tomorrow chap (sun) will try and get some pics up. im going to print all this lot and i guess il do it and thanks everyone youve all been great again, i must say that my car owes its performance and handling to this very site. its all good.

stew.

 

perhaps this is why the power harness is so short. so just tee of that then really.

 

I took the power supply for my Defi Controller direct offf the ignition switch, wires need extending but just added a fuse holder to each wire with correct rated fuses

 

this is what ive done yet i have no illumination after the opening sequence just the red LED's flashing. the opening sequence happens twice once when the key is turned once and second when the engine turns over, but still n illuminaton after the opning bit. WHAT THE F**K IS GOING ON.

 

Press the up button on the controller, this should then bring on the lights, 4 presses for max

 

just tried it still nothing. why are the red lights flashing in the gauges.

 

anyone else shed some light on this. would it make a difference if the senders are not actually connected yet or should it still light up.

 

I don't think it'll work perfectly if the senders aren't connected, mate, as the control box will see zero current, so show a fault situation.

Your four wires should be connected as follows:
Red= permanent live, 12V.
Orange= switched live, 12V.
White= vehicle lighting, sidelights, instrument lights etc.
Black= a decent earth. Mine is grounded beside the ecu via a ring terminal.

Alcazar

 

Your red LED's are flashing cos you have not yet conected the sender units.

You need to check that the Illumination wire has a 12v feed when the lights are turned on!

Depending on the model & year of the Subaru, you could well find that the wire you have used for this is supplied with an earth to turn on the illumination, not 12v.

If you definately have a 12v feed, then try swapping the main lead from the control unit to the guages to Guage Output 2.

Phil

 

now i have lights but no start up sequence, fuse hasnt blown and the led dont flash. i could cry now.

 

Have you READ my post in the other thread?

You HAVE to get the wiring for the control unit spot on, and ALL senders attached before it will work properly. The control box is a piece of electronic equipment and won't work properly unless supplied with the correct signals and the correct feeds.

To get the wiring right, you WILL need to test what wire is what. Just get one wrong and it'll all be out of kilter. Go out and buy a circuit tester NOW!!

Alcazar